'56 Country Sedan Overheating

[L5wolvesf]

Originally Posted by tsanborn

Here are some photos of the radiator. Mounted on the front of the radiator is the a/c condenser separated from the radiator by about an inch. In front of the condenser is a pusher auxiliary fan, also with a small space between them. I again confirmed that it is pushing a good deal of air through the radiator.

BTW, the auxiliary fan is only energized when the ignition is on so shutting down the engine once it's hot probably leads to increased coolant temperatures and boil-off.

So you have 2 fans - 1 electric and 1 engine driven. It seems like the fans may be working against each other.

Also, as Dobie pointed out the shroud, as is, is not optimal for the engine driven fan.

[tsanborn]

Thanks for info. It does seem like a slow reluctant march into enemy territory. The engine did not overheat before the rebuild. Shortly after getting the car back from the engine builder, I installed the a/c system, new radiator, the shroud that you see (there wasn't a shroud previously), 5 blade fan, auxiliary electric fan and a stepped up alternator for the benefit of the new fan. Also discs on the fronts and a dual master power master. As I got into it with these chores, I realized the wiring was a mess so ripped the old stuff out and I added a Painless harness and fuse box. I haven't really driven the car a lot since completing the work last month but everything seems to working with the exception of the overheating issues. I will now make an effort to see what conditions cause it to overheat (other than climbing a hill to our house). I should point out that the auxiliary fan turns on when the gauge shows the temperature a little bit above the middle range but I don't see that the auxiliary fan has any effect in reducing the temperature. Just continues to climb until I shut the engine off.

[Dobie Gillis]

Your auxiliary fan may be spinning backward, pulling engine compartment air back through the radiator. I've seen it happen. Usually it will trip the high pressure side of the trinary switch, disengaging the compressor if the a/c is on. It's easy to check, just hold your hand in front of it. If you feel it blowing on your hand that's a problem.

[KULTULZ]

I wouldn’t take the LoadaMatic system out of contention yet until the timing and advance are checked.

I’m not sure that module and the LOM are compatible. Was it it used before the rebuild?

The ELECTRONIC IGN MODULE (do you know manufacturer?) would have nothing to do with the LOAD-O-MATIC timing advance features (well, it actually does but how many check breaker spring pressure on a LOM points install?). It only supplies a hotter spark.

I have had overheat problems caused by the lack of an anti-vacuum spring in the lower radiator hose. If the big coil spring is missing, the hose will collapse from suction and slow or stop the water flow. Do you know that the spring is in there?

!!! GOOD POINT !!!

Your shroud is little more than a fan guard.

Still need photos of COND and FAN install.

This is a '56? Air cooled trans?

[tsanborn]

It's a manual transmission. Given all the belts we're running for the a/c, alternator and power steering pump, it was hard to configure a better shroud. But remember that we never had a shroud previously and it ran fine with a 4 bladed fan. I checked again this morning to confirm that the auxiliary fan is pushing and not pulling. I will need to drain and remove the radiator to get a good picture of the condenser and auxiliary fan. I've never been able to remove the grill on the car.

[KULTULZ]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I will need to drain and remove the radiator to get a good picture of the condenser and auxiliary fan. I've never been able to remove the grill on the car.

You needn't go to all of that trouble. Just the best picture you can take.

I am thinking low air flow with the pusher and AC COND mounted. It just overheats on a hard pull? How about city traffic? I guess highway speed is normal?

Was the RAD specialty made or was it generally available? Do they offer any kind of shroud?

[tsanborn]

I was concerned that the Vintage Air system might add too much load to the engine so I went out of my way to order the best oversized radiator I could find. I went with Griffen because they're made in Florida (who knows overheating better?) and paid a significant premium for it. It is rated at 500 hp. I agree that my current shroud isn't ideal but since the car ran well previously with it's old radiator and no shroud, I figured it would be better than nothing.

I'll get back to you on when it tends to overheat in different conditions.

[L5wolvesf]

After some thought . . . I would disconnect the electric fan and see how the temps are without the e-fan.

Also a fresh engine will tend to run a bit hotter during break-in

[KULTULZ]

Ten Commandments For Maximum Cooling

https://www.griffinrad.com/tips.php

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Dobie Gillis

Also, there should be a metal splash pan bolted to the front crossmember that extends back to just in front of the oil pan. The pan serves 2 purposes: it keeps spray from splashing up onto the front of the engine and also acts as sort of an air guide to reduce recirculation of hot air from the engine compartment through the radiator. I would also seal as many gaps/holes around the radiator as possible to force more air through the core.

I was concerned that the Vintage Air system might add too much load to the engine

Did they sell the conversion as a complete install kit or modular? Can you post the PN's. I have no life so I can run it down for you. If a SANDEN COMPRESSOR, there should be little additional strain.

WP pulley size?

Now, did you keep the engine steady rest and baffles?

ALSO -

Originally Posted by Late model

tsanborn,

I have had overheat problems caused by the lack of an anti-vacuum spring in the lower radiator hose. If the big coil spring is missing, the hose will collapse from suction and slow or stop the water flow. Do you know that the spring is in there?

Don

Also, someone here mentioned a rebuild as possibly leading to overheating. He is correct if the engine was assembled [i]tight[/b], meaning close tolerances. Did he (machine shop) give you a build sheet?

[henry8]

I had the exact same problem with my 292 fairlane when I bought it years ago off the internet (BIG MISTAKE). After changing changing everything that could possibly be involved, and no help, I decided to pull the intake off and see if the head gaskets were wrong or bad. Turns out that previous owner had the heads off and put them back on backwards. At the front of the left head where the water should run through from the intake manifold, there was a plug that should be at the rear of the right head. After putting it back together with new gaskets, problem solved with no more overheating.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by henry8

I had the exact same problem with my 292 fairlane when I bought it years ago off the internet (BIG MISTAKE). After changing changing everything that could possibly be involved, and no help, I decided to pull the intake off and see if the head gaskets were wrong or bad. Turns out that previous owner had the heads off and put them back on backwards. At the front of the left head where the water should run through from the intake manifold, there was a plug that should be at the rear of the right head. After putting it back together with new gaskets, problem solved with no more overheating.

Example, dirty picture...

[KULTULZ]

Turns out that previous owner had the heads off and put them back on backwards. At the front of the left head where the water should run through from the intake manifold, there was a plug that should be at the rear of the right head. After putting it back together with new gaskets, problem solved with no more overheating.

... S.O.B. ...

THANX! for that ...