Electrical verification 32 Ford

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by koates

I reread your post and you say you fitted a new cut out. If it is a diode type and not a points type then it has to match the polarity of the car which should be POS GROUND. If it is the wrong polarity cut out you will get a short through it. Regards, Kevin.

I "HAD" a fun projects diode type cutout on the car originally BUT when it came back to us, generator wired incorrectly(basically wired without the cutout in the system) and it pegged my ammeter and fried the generator, I eliminated it from the system as well AND have not sent it back to fun projects to have it tested and repaired as needed. I ordered a new, standard type cutout, had Mike at Third Gen rebuild my generator and had Williamson Instruments repair my ammeter SO at this juncture I feel confident that the ammeter is NOT the issue!!!!!!

[DavidG]

Robert,


As I noted earlier, everything in those two photos of your generator are by the book. With all due respect to koates, the cutout appears to be correct for a '32 Ford, the screws on the cutout are correct for a '32 Ford and he is evidently unaware that the insulators for those screws came in two thicknesses, one thicker one for the front and a thin one for the back screw; see photo below from the '32 Service Bulletins (assuming that's what you have there, white or otherwise) . In fairness, his comment about the cutout screws being possibly too long is relevant. But if they came from either Michael or Roy Nacewicz (RIP), they are likely not too long.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Robert,


As I noted earlier, everything in those two photos of your generator are by the book. With all due respect to koates, the cutout appears to be correct for a '32 Ford, the screws on the cutout are correct for a '32 Ford and he is evidently unaware that the , insulators for those screws came in two thicknesses, one thicker one for the front and a thin one for the back screw; see photo below from the '32 Service Bulletins (assuming that's what you have there, white or otherwise) . In fairness, his comment about the cutout screws being possibly too long is relevant. But if they came from either Michael or Roy Nacewicz (RIP), they are likely not too long.

David, I will check the insulator on the back side of the cutout this evening, I'm most positive it is there as I did not remove the L-Bracket from it when I installed it (Just looked and it can be seen in my previous posted photo). I do know the "thicker" insulator is on the Inlet side between the wire end and the housing!!!! I will still double check it this evening.

[koates]

David, when I stated that the cut out was not the correct type I meant that it was not an original Ford made unit, it is a reproduction and as such its quality is very suspect. Many of these reproductions have a tiny diode inside them which is only rated to carry 5 amps current. Some much older reproductions have a large round alternator type diode inside which is rated at 20 amps and will handle the Ford generator maximum output of approx 15 amps, but depending how the third brush is set. I am well aware the terminal insulators are of different thicknesses to each other but the one on the generator side does not look correct to me because it does not appear to be black. But I guess the photos are not really very clear. The best quality cut out is an original Ford made one which has a points type relay inside it. Diodes do loose a tiny amount of voltage across them. Regards, Kevin.

[rockfla]

@Koates
This car has not run since all the repaired items talked about in this post have been installed!!! Not even one attempt at trying to start it!! So they are as ordered, as repaired as recalibrated