Oil Change

[Walt Ebie]

I'm ready to do an oil change on my '30A for the first time since I've had it-about a year. Don't know when the last change was done. I've put on only about 75 miles on the car and the oil on the stick "looks" good but I want to change it anyway so i can keep up with regular changes. From what I read, a 30-wt is what I want but I'd like to know if most of you use an HD or a non-HD? I plan on driving every week but not long distance - just around town -and I have an air filter but not an oil filter. What are your thoughts on it?

[31Tudor]

Walt you will find quite a bit of oil discussion in the Search above, I use Dello 400; 15-40.

[Terry, NJ]

Walt,you will hear amazingly different opinions on oil and oil changes. Some go for the best oils ($$) Others with more moderate means buy less costly types. Some will even use used oil from another vehicle. Model As are not that sophisticated. It seems to me that the costliest oil is just throwing one's money away. Whatever is on sale at Walmarts! Always keep in mind, The best oil of 1930 is not as good as the worst oil of today! I like Rotella 10/40 from Tractor Supply. It is a HD oil and sludge doesn't accumulate. I am particularly afraid of sludge. I bought a used engine in which the oil screen was about 75% blocked with sludge, it also had bad mains. Any connection? I wonder!
Terry

[Goldhardt]

Hey Walt, I just had my engine rebuilt down in Cincinnati. They recommended Shell Rotella W30. It is a single weight oil actually made for diesels. They also said to add a 4 ounce bottle of ZDDP additive in the oil with every oil change. This adds zinc back into the oil. After reading online, it appears that most major oil companies have removed the zinc from their oils back in the eighties but older engines still need it. I'm sure others will have their own thoughts on this, but since my engine is under warranty, I'm following his instructions.

[hangarb7]

HI Walt,

As TerryNJ said, this is one of those 'questions' that generates tons of opinions! That said, let's be practical about YOUR car. First, understand the general difference between oils, detergent and non-detergent. As I understand this subject, non-detergent oils used when the car was built allow the dirt to fall out of the oil and become sludge on the bottom of the pan.

However, if you car always used this type of oil and you now start to use detergent oil, there is a belief that the sludge and grit will now come back up INTO the oil and be distributed around the engine and bearings, which does not sound healthy.

So, do you know what kind of oil was being used in the engine before? You may not. I use what the gent was using when I bought the car, straight non-detergent 40W. By the way, I also believe 40 weight was what was suggested by Ford at the time.

IF your car has an added oil filter, that would allow a detergent oil to hold all the dirt and deposit it into the filter, which would be good.

This probably doesn't help you that much, but after all, you are now the Mechanic-in-Charge, and whatever you decide based on what you know will be fine.

JackD

[CarlG]

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Originally Posted by Goldhardt

...since my engine is under warranty, I'm following his instructions.

Good move!

[dansluck]

I use a 30 wt HD and I have added an Oil Filter. I add zinc when I change oil.
Dan

[Jim Brierley]

Added zinc is not necessary in an A because there is some in modern oils, none in 1929. A cams are made of steel, most modern ones are cast iron plus modern engines have MUCH MORE valve spring pressure, this is where the problem is in modern engines. I use 10-40 that is on sale.

[Jacksonlll]

Since your car is new to you, here is a tip I wrote up years ago for our new members.

Keep a Log Book.

It is very hard trying to remember what and when you fixed various things on your Model A. I strongly recommend keeping a small note book on everything you do to your car. I have two A’s and take care of a third for a friend. In each car, I keep a small book and write down everything I do. Things like oil changes, grease jobs, change points, new tires, new plugs, add lube to trans., pack water pump, check king pins, valve job, brake adjust or repair, etc. Anytime you do anything on your car, write it down. Show the date and mileage when you did it. This will let you know how long the points lasted, how long between spark plug cleanings, how many miles on your tires, oil change times, how often you had to add lube to the trans., last time you changed plugs or some other component. As I have problems, I describe what the problem is and what I did to fix it.
I have done this for years, and it has really paid off. If you have more than one car to keep track of, keeping such a log book is a must. I use those small, 3x5 in. ring note books that cost about $1.00. Keep a small pencil with it and always keep it with the car. When you go to sell the car, or hand it down to a new mechanic in the family, it will come in handy, and you will have all the history on your car since you had it.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

Since your car is new to you, here is a tip I wrote up years ago for our new members.

Keep a Log Book.

It is very hard trying to remember what and when you fixed various things on your Model A. I strongly recommend keeping a small note book on everything you do to your car. I have two A’s and take care of a third for a friend. In each car, I keep a small book and write down everything I do. Things like oil changes, grease jobs, change points, new tires, new plugs, add lube to trans., pack water pump, check king pins, valve job, brake adjust or repair, etc. Anytime you do anything on your car, write it down. Show the date and mileage when you did it. This will let you know how long the points lasted, how long between spark plug cleanings, how many miles on your tires, oil change times, how often you had to add lube to the trans., last time you changed plugs or some other component. As I have problems, I describe what the problem is and what I did to fix it.
I have done this for years, and it has really paid off. If you have more than one car to keep track of, keeping such a log book is a must. I use those small, 3x5 in. ring note books that cost about $1.00. Keep a small pencil with it and always keep it with the car. When you go to sell the car, or hand it down to a new mechanic in the family, it will come in handy, and you will have all the history on your car since you had it.

A very logical and intelligent idea! It takes the guess work out of what repairs and maintenance have been performed for you and future owners. Wayne[/B]

[mshmodela]

Lot's of opinions on oil.... If your car does not have an oil filter than just change it 500 miles.... I use Rotella 15 W 40... I dump my oil in the fall and then dump it once more at spring (yes in addition to every 500 miles) Oil is cheap, you could toss it every 250 miles really... 15 mins and $13 is easy.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/14958327?w...236446&veh=sem

[C26Pinelake]

As has often been said, anything is better than Henry used 85 years ago ! Wayne

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Depending on your weather extremes, you "might" want to use a different weight, during the HOT/COLD seasons.

[mhsprecher]

An engine rebuilder presenting at the MARC meet said 10W-30. I use 10W-30 synthetic, but that is probably overkill and an expensive one, at that.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by mhsprecher

An engine rebuilder presenting at the MARC meet said 10W-30. I use 10W-30 synthetic, but that is probably overkill and an expensive one, at that.

I do the very same as you and it likely is overkill but peace of mind is worth a lot , Wayne

[BlueSunoco]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

Added zinc is not necessary in an A because there is some in modern oils, none in 1929. A cams are made of steel, most modern ones are cast iron plus modern engines have MUCH MORE valve spring pressure, this is where the problem is in modern engines. I use 10-40 that is on sale.

Was watching the car show on TV last nite, 'Phantom Works' where they restore various cars. The machine shop that builds their engines demonstrated how BRITTLE modern cams are. He dropped one from the early 70's on the floor and it shattered into a lot of pieces Made an impression on me at least!! Model A cams made of steel have to be a lot tougher than today's cams!

[rscardina]

There is a smartphone app called Gas Cubby that I use for service and gas fill-ups. It calculates gas mileage and you can schedule routine service items. It's a cool app. By the way, I use Shell Rotella 15w40.

[Walt Ebie]

Terry......where is this oil screen you referred to?

[Skibb]

Originally Posted by mhsprecher

An engine rebuilder presenting at the MARC meet said 10W-30. I use 10W-30 synthetic, but that is probably overkill and an expensive one, at that.

Me too ... I go longer on the change interval.......

[Terry, NJ]

It is around the oil pump. IIRC it was the same as copper bug/window screen that we used to have to paint every few years and take out in the spring and fall. Mine was so blocked with sludge it seemed as though nothing was getting through. Someday someone will come up with a way of testing the flow so we can tell if it's clogged or not without taking the pan down. Now, think back on the depression. When was it? That's right, late 29!and it got worse in 30,31,and 32 (July) How well do you think they were maintaining these things during the depression? I would say, not very well! Also, there was a rumor going around that oil doesn't wear out. Changing you oil was just a sales gimmick by the big oil companies to sell more oil. Some old fords probably never saw an oil change.
Terry

Originally Posted by Walt Ebie

Terry......where is this oil screen you referred to?