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08-13-2021, 10:49 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 163
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High fill primer
I am working on a '31 Pickup that is REALLY Rust Pitted. I just found an old can of PPG K 200 Primer (Yellow)that appears to be in good shape. The can says to use 201 Reducer/Hardener but I don't have that. I do have some K 202 Reducer/Hardener. I mixed a small amount with clean up grade Lacquer thinner and did a test spray that seems to have come out very good. USE IT? or what are my other options? I plan to spray over with epoxy primer and then Urethane Enamel. I hate to throw away stuff that still works!
Last edited by Brewsterbuff; 08-13-2021 at 11:01 AM. |
08-13-2021, 11:40 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Signal Mtn, TN (SE TN)
Posts: 2,370
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Re: High fill primer
Brent is certified…
But I follow the ppg data sheets to the letter! With the overall investment in time and materials… I’d buy all fresh materials, hands down. |
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08-13-2021, 01:17 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,508
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Re: High fill primer
While I did not call my PPG jobber to verify this, I am thinking that K200 primer has not been manufactured in the last decade or so. Am I mistaken?? If that is the case, I would strongly encourage you to rethink the use of that primer.
As far as the pits go, I think I would recommend applying a very thin coat of epoxy (i.e.: 1 coat it) and then use a Kevlar reinforced filler such as Evercoat 632 first to totally fill the pits and apply it in one coat. I would use 80 grit on a DA to level the filler, and then come over the top of the filler with your high-build primer to fill the 80 grit scratches and to do minor leveling. Using only the high-build primer sets up a very large mil-thickness that will likely take at least a couple of applications and drying cycles. Additionally, you potentially risk that between the first and the second applications, you will not get a thorough enough sanding down in the pits which allows the following application to relies mostly on a chemical bond instead of a chemical and mechanical (scratched) bond. From a time, -and a longevity standpoint, this method will probably make you much happier. |
08-14-2021, 11:46 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South East NJ
Posts: 3,398
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Re: High fill primer
What Brent says!!!!
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03-03-2022, 04:37 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 163
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Re: High fill primer
Brent, Thanks for your advice. I did some research and you are correct K-200 is LONG GONE. However, my distributor had the K-201 Hardener in the shelf as a current product. (Not sure I understand that). I have used it now on 2 different jobs and it worked fine. Hope it holds up!
I am now working on my own '50 F-1 Pickup. Different truck, same problems! Since it is my own truck and I will be using it as a work truck and not for show, I decided to use up some old stock if possible. BUT, you are also right about the K-200 not totally filling the rust pits. After ALOT of sanding I am now filling the pitted ares with fine filler and preparing it for epoxy primer and then finish paint. The bed is done and it came out very nice, for a work truck! Doing all of the work on the roof of that Pickup, from ladders, is a real 'pain in the butt'! |
03-03-2022, 05:27 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: central Arkansas
Posts: 150
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Re: High fill primer
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03-03-2022, 07:32 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,959
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Re: High fill primer
I use product that is of dubious nature on garden tools and old machinery with no regrets. I don't throw anything out.
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03-04-2022, 09:31 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: De Pere, WI
Posts: 290
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Re: High fill primer
Don't do it. It's not worth the risk of a paint failure down the road after you've completed your restoration. Buy material that is not expired and mix/apply based on material tech data sheet.
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