sacrificial anodes

[JonC]

The stuff I use is Molibdium Disulfate (spelling) and is used in the aerospace industry, I do not believe it has copper in it. Never sieze is just a general name, I hope it works. Too late now I'm not taken it apart it runs too good

[Sawbones]

Originally Posted by Deuce Man

This is what a pencil zinc looks like. Looks like it was made for the job doesnt it? We use these to protect the cooling system on marine diesels that cost a half to a million bucks a pair. They come in different pipe sizes, I believe this one is 3/8 npt. It cost under $10.00 and a replacement anode is under $2.00. Cheap insurance! Yes West marine sells them as well as most other marine supplies Hope this helps. Rich

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I wanted to say thanks for this.

[woodiewagon46]

I use the radiator caps with the sacrificial anode attached with a stainless steel wire.

[russcc]

2 key points here; 1. 4dford/SC, No-Rosion prevents electrolysis, and is used in the majority of high end antique cars, and my 29 Roadster & 40 coupe, both with aluminum heads. I use it in all my cars, and have for years. No-Rosion is like an insulator, blocking the galvanic corrosion path in the electrolyte, (coolant, and or anti-freeze), between dissimilar metals.

2. Deuce Man, Right on, most anti-seize is copper based. Aircraft anti-seize is graphite & petroletum based and is used where steel contacts aluminum, spark plugs, and steel studs in aluminum heads. "Safe-T-Seize" is sold by Aircraft & Spruce.

When I install aluminum heads, I coat the steel head stud shanks and threads with "Safe-T-Seize", and the spark plug threads.

The zinc anodes are great backup to "No-Rosion" in the event it is not changed when needed. When you run 2 mechanical temp gauge sender, you are limited to where you can install anodes.

[19Fordy]

As has been said earlier, use No-Rosion, distilled water and check Ph with the old chemistry strips we used in highschool. There's also a video on U-Tube that shows you how to check PH level using a multimeter. Look here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...client=gws-wiz
and
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/hyd...gaAgh3EALw_wcB
and
http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm

[tubman]

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I hate to be a pest, but a magnesium anode is much better that protecting aluminum components than zinc. First of all we must realize that we are talking about sacrificial anodes here. These are items that are placed in an environment (in this case, an engine's cooling system) to purposely corrode in order to protect other components in the environment. Look at the attached Galvanic Table; zinc is quite close to aluminum alloys; as a matter of fact, their voltage limits almost overlap. Magnesium is quite far away and doesn't come close to overlapping. Is zinc a satisfactory sacrificial anode for cast iron and steel? Sure it is; look at the differences in voltage potential between the two. The zinc will certainly corrode before the ferrous metal, but this may not be the case with aluminum. The zinc does provide some protection, it's just not the optimum.

And remember, these are sacrificial anodes, and as such, must be replaced on a regular basus.