59AB Going into my '33 Truck, Generator Question

[cas3]

I have a set of those factory merc mounts, and they would not work for me to put a 59a motor in two 34 cars I have done. I made my own, similar to what deuce lover shows in post 15. Main thing I believe is you are trying to locate the crank shaft in the same location as the stock motor at the front. With the 59a motor, the loop for the hand crank guide will be in the way, and since I do not like to wreck rare parts I used the spring /U bolt plate from a model A. I also used the Whitney Alternator conversion with a 34 fan and genni. They are not cheap, dont make a lot of amps, but are built to take the extra load from a fan

[Charles Brock]

Originally Posted by '32FordNut

Thank you Jim, If I use the generator with the fan on it, I will need to change the crank pulley to just one instead of a double, correct. The crank, fan & water pumps will all run on just one belt, correct? Thank you for your help!!

I'm setup right now with 2 pulleys and the drop down. A friend of mine gave me the bad news and said that was wrong for the 33 truck. That's when it started, it was 50/50 with everyone's opinion, but the friend of mine who told me is an expert on 33/34's, however has never done a truck. He also told me that I'll probably never find the correct generator & fan since he hasn't seen one in years around here in CA at swap meets. Any suggestions to locate one? Thanks again, Jeff

I have the correct fan, if you need one. Thanks

[2ndgeer]

It appears as if you are no longer interested in pure stock so let me recommend what I did with the 59AB in my 1934 pickup. I ordered an alternator from Ed Whitney after sending him an original 1934 generator as a core. It works just as I hoped. Here is what it looks like.

[jimTN]

Bob is correct. Both `33 and 34 crossmember mount holes are closer to the center than 59 series mounts. Using the Merc adapters both offset the mounts and rais the engine so the crank is above the crossmember properly. I have a 59 series block in my 34 pu and every thing bolted in place with the Merc adapters and a sawed off double pulley.

[Bored&Stroked]

I had those U-shaped adapters when I installed a 59AB in my 34 (many years ago). Not only do they deal with the different hole locations, but they also deal with getting the engine at the correct height for the lower radiator hoses.

[cas3]

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And ...Speaking of hoses, I believe we use the lower hose for an 8ba application as they have a slight S shape which helps line things up I have a part # here if I can find it

[blucar]

I have had very little experience with engine modifications on a '33-34 Ford, I do recall that the '32's had a bracket, a leg like affair, that bolted to the front of the engine and the front cross-member. I also recall that the majority of the later blocks, '37-48 were drilled at the factory for the earlier mounts.
In years gone bye I installed several '37-48 Ford V8's into '36-40 vehicles, never had to use a motor mount adapter.
The off-set in the bolt holes of the Merc adapter's allows the 8BA style of engine with Merc/or truck pumps to work in a EFV8 chassis.

[tubman]

To be clear, the mounting "ears" are at different heights between the Mercury and Truck pumps. The spacer that would be correct for one may not be correct for another.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by tubman

To be clear, the mounting "ears" are at different heights between the Mercury and Truck pumps. The spacer that would be correct for one may not be correct for another.

That really only applies to the later V8 engines - 49-53. On the 37-48 V8's engines (and the 59AB he references), the pumps had the "ears" in the same places for every model, every brand.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

That really only applies to the later V8 engines - 49-53. On the 37-48 V8's engines (and the 59AB he references), the pumps had the "ears" in the same places for every model, every brand.

I understand that, but somewhere in the equation later Merc pumps and their associated spacers got referenced. I just don't want anyone to think that '49-'51Merc pumps are directly interchangeable with the later truck pumps.

Maybe I'm overly sensitive to this, but I made this mistake once.

[cas3]

The merc and truck pumps I think are what the factory spacers are for, thats why they would not work on my 34/59a combo. They positioned the front of the motor about an inch higher than should be, so I made my own. The ones I have were in a 47ish truck with a merc motor installed

['32FordNut]

I have 2 - 32's, my pickup has an 8BA in it and has NO towers on the motor mounts. My 3-W has a Merc (EAB) motor and has NO towers. I understand from a friend of a friend that has a collection of 33 & 34 cars and trucks his entire life (he's 88 and still going strong with cars), says I will absolutely need those towers if I put a 59AB in a '33 truck. The front of the motor will be down and the towers will bring the crank level. I have a set incase I need them. Once I get into it, I'll be able to see who's correct <LOL>!!

['32FordNut]

Originally Posted by 2ndgeer

It appears as if you are no longer interested in pure stock so let me recommend what I did with the 59AB in my 1934 pickup. I ordered an alternator from Ed Whitney after sending him an original 1934 generator as a core. It works just as I hoped. Here is what it looks like.

I really like your setup. It looks awesome!!!

[cas3]

Continue on with the experiment, but I think you will find your old friend is correct.
first you will install the motor and trans as a unit, and bolt down the trans rear mount so the front to back is located, then when the front is lowered down you will find the bolt for the crank pulley is sitting on top the hand crank loop. 59a motors have a longer crankshaft than the early motors. As I mentioned before, that loop needs to be cut off, or replaced with a flat model A unit. That bolt center needs to be where the original bolt was even though you are not going to have the rachet nut for the hand crank. The reason this is critical, and not mentioned yet in this thread, is the clearance for the breather tube at the back of the motor. I have no experience with truck firewalls, but I assume the clearance issue would be the same. The early motors had a tall breather tube so the cap is above the ledge on the fire wall. the short fuel pump stand and tube of the 59a will not allow room to put the cap on . On the two I have done, even the tall early tube was not tall enough so I made a taller tube to clear the firewall. To recap, the crank bolt must be lined up to the original position in the crank guide loop.

[cas3]

For fun...I once bought a 34 frame that had a dead later motor in it. They stacked two ford motor mounts for the height, and used a smaller bolt so it would go at an angle to overcome the width difference. Well...I guess it worked

[cas3]

Here's my 59a in a 34 car. An old photo, hard to see but the breather tube is very close to the firewall, and taller than a stock 33-34 unit. also, my home made poor mans iron worker to make the U shaped mounts. Its mostly used to make loopy things to hang bird feeders for the wife, but I do make car parts too. ----well shoot, I thought I had a photo on file of my silly Iron worker, but no. I'll post one tomorrow

['32FordNut]

Originally Posted by cas3

Here's my 59a in a 34 car. An old photo, hard to see but the breather tube is very close to the firewall, and taller than a stock 33-34 unit. also, my home made poor mans iron worker to make the U shaped mounts. Its mostly used to make loopy things to hang bird feeders for the wife, but I do make car parts too. ----well shoot, I thought I had a photo on file of my silly Iron worker, but no. I'll post one tomorrow

Nice job, looks clean. I hope I can put my breather on without any issues. I never thought of that yet. Just one more issue, maybe!!

[bmwillia]

This thread is great!

I Just got a fresh built 59ab for my 33 coupe.

Any measurements on where to cut the double crank pulley, or is it ok to cut at the base of the cone for the front pulley?

I also need to fabricate some spacers. What should the overall height of the spacer be?

[Mart]

Originally Posted by bmwillia

This thread is great!

I Just got a fresh built 59ab for my 33 coupe.

Any measurements on where to cut the double crank pulley, or is it ok to cut at the base of the cone for the front pulley?

I also need to fabricate some spacers. What should the overall height of the spacer be?

If you look down the bore of the pulley, there is a step where the bolt and washer bear against. You should shorten the main body until it is flush with that shoulder. That way the bolt works exactly as it did before.

I made spacers for my 33. I used some square tubing plus an extra packer. I can't remember the exact height I achieved but it is about 1-3/4". The holes need to be offset outboard 1/2" each side. This is from memory please check dimensions o0n your vehicle.

Mart.

[bmwillia]

I’m not real clear on what you are describing. Is the “step” you are referring to the scratched part around the bore in this picture?




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