Navarro heads and the oil housing

[hombres ruin]

Hi guys. I have a 41 ford and I am about to put Navarro heads on. Problem is the fins on the head won’t allow for the oil filter bracket to be bolted onto the heads. H&H said I could use three longer head studs and a spacer to elevate the bracket above the fins. Has anyone had this issue and if so how do you solve it, or have you used the longer stud/spacer solution? Thanks

[Tim Ayers]

Options are longer studs and spacers, shave the fins down or a remote housing (EX: beehive) and mount on the firewall, etc.

[Bored&Stroked]

I always make aluminum spacers and use the longer studs. You don't want to mill the fins off - especially if you might someday sell them or take that style of filter off.

[Krylon32]

Another vote for spacers and longer studs. Easy fix.

[hombres ruin]

Bored and stroked do you happen to know what thickness for the spacers? Also is the longer stud a 3.5 inch?

[1948F-1Pickup]

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Didn’t have an issue on my 8BA.

[Brian]

I make longer nuts, taller than the fins... Torque the heads as usual, then using 7/16 UNF bolts, secure the filter into the top of the long nuts

[Newc]

Why are we using oil filters on todays old Fords? How much are they driven and todays road environment is so clean compared to the dusty dirt and gravel roads of 80 yrs ago. Modern oils are better to. So change every 2000 miles ! Newc

[aussie merc]

yet another vote for studs and spacers

[tubman]

I would think a set of "coupling nuts" (as described by "Brian", above) would be the easiest solution. 7/16" fine might not be available at the local hardware store, but should be available someplace.

[Brian]

I actually got the idea off of the late great 'rumbleseat'

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by Newc

Why are we using oil filters on todays old Fords? How much are they driven and todays road environment is so clean compared to the dusty dirt and gravel roads of 80 yrs ago. Modern oils are better to. So change every 2000 miles ! Newc

I usually put 2-3,000 miles per year on the old girl. Combination of city/highway.

Many of our rides are decades old rebuilds. Filtering out normal wear and tear debris comes to mind.

Many years of the old crankcase venting (open) before installing PCV system. Down here in the desert lot of abrasive dust.

Also byproducts of combustion (sludge).
After 35 years and 30,000 miles on a fresh rebuild I have a bit of sludge in my canister every annual oil change.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by hombres ruin

Bored and stroked do you happen to know what thickness for the spacers? Also is the longer stud a 3.5 inch?

Just measure the height of your fins. I don't have the length in front of me, but when I buy the ARP stud kits, they always (at least in my experience) come with 3 or more longer studs - just for this purpose. Another usage for the longer studs is if you need a generator mount that uses the head studs.

[Bored&Stroked]

Coupling nuts would be fine, as long as they were a good enough grade to hold torque and not strip out or lose torque.

[hombres ruin]

Hey guys revisiting this thread .. I haven’t got around to doing this.. any idea what length head stud would be applicable for the oil housing (3 studs)on these Navarro heads which are stock in configuration? And leave me enough thread for adequate torque and to fit the housing? Thanks for any help .

[31 coupe]

Specialty Fasteners in LA sell assorted length ARP studs etc.
https://www.specialty-fasteners.com/...p/sku-3025.htm
Personally I'd prefer the coupling nut method because it's a more consistent torque loading plus you can remove the filter housing without upsetting the head clamping etc. Make the nuts out of 4140 or similar.
Not a cheap alternative but they're available - https://www.mcmaster.com/90983A214/

[Brian]

Yes, I make my tall nuts out of 4140. Firstly I machine the bar stock to 11/16" A/F hexagon, [same size as original head nuts], then part off to whatever length I require to suit the application. Drill and tap 7/16" UNF thread and done! I have no experience with your seemingly available 'coupling nuts', don't know what they're made of, but as you probably only need to torque finned heads to around 45 ft/lbs, they're probably more than adequate. What size hex are they? I dunno, but regular 7/16 UNF bolts here in New Zealand have 5/8 hex heads, whereas the nuts are 11/16 A/F. It is nice to keep all the head nuts the same size hexagon, saves having to use two size sockets when torquing them down.
The only 7/16 UNF bolts [apart from 8BA head bolts] with 7/16" heads that I've found are 'Caterpillar' bolts; very pricey!
Sorry, have rambled off topic somewhat.

[jimTN]

I sawed the top off of some old kingpin locking bolt nuts which made great coupling nuts.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by jimTN

I sawed the top off of some old kingpin locking bolt nuts which made great coupling nuts.

Great idea

[hombres ruin]

31 coupe thanks for the link .. this seems to be a good route to take after considering what you said . Grade 8 quality and is the right hight for the heads. Pricey yes, but well worth it. Thanks again