The Ford Barn

Lenny Bruce · 07-31-2022, 09:53 AM

Hello guys. I was greasing my Tudor the other day and noticed the previous owner had disassembled the radius arm. The spacers and springs are missing that hold the ball in place. It was just put back together with the castle nuts. My question is would it be a wise choice to just put the whole kit in and be done with it rather then just replace the spacers/sleeves and springs? I was wondering if replacing the wick for the oil is a pain in the hump? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Bob C · 07-31-2022, 11:43 AM

Any chance you have the rubber ball setup.

Lenny Bruce · 07-31-2022, 05:04 PM

I believe that’s the set up I have. I was just hoping their wasnt some hidden tricks on how to replace it

Lenny Bruce · 07-31-2022, 05:56 PM

My car is a 30 Tudor. Built in June of 1930 so it has the oval Speedo. Early 30 I suppose. So I’m not sure if all the A’s had the springs?

nkaminar · 07-31-2022, 06:28 PM

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7769&cat=41738
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7759&cat=41738
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7770&cat=41738
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7756&cat=41738

Wick · 08-01-2022, 04:43 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

You can change the Wick and bolts with the motor still in the vehicle, if you have small hands and a magnet and a good light. I've done a few of them, 10min job or 1 hour job,you just never know.

lrjones · 08-01-2022, 06:23 AM

I believe if the radius ball has the rubber ball over it, it wouldn't have the springs. Look at both the kits from the vendors. The original has the springs and the rubber ball kit does not, if I remember right.

old31 · 08-01-2022, 06:52 AM

The question is, what made the previous owner think he needed the rubber ball set up. Is your radius ball worn?

Lenny Bruce · 08-01-2022, 08:46 AM

Nothing seems worn. I just noticed their was no springs just the castle nuts so I wanted to add the springs if necessary

Bob Bidonde · 08-01-2022, 08:53 AM

The diameter of the stock radius arm ball is 1.5". When the ball is worn, it affects the tilt of the front axle. If the ball is worn, have a new one electric welded to your radius rod. Then use a stock metal socket assembly to attach the ball to the flywheel housing. Avoid the rubber ball because it wears quickly and degrades when wet with motor oil.

Lenny Bruce · 08-01-2022, 12:01 PM

Thanks I appreciate your responses!

Joe K · 08-01-2022, 12:11 PM

I have used both original and the replacement version. There is a small difference in front axle "tilt" between the two - but it doesn't seem to affect driving in any way (i.e. I can't detect a difference.)

As mentioned the replacement seat and cap should be "solid" - as in no springs or other "cushion" introduced between the seat & cap at the bolts. Cushion/free play is made in the rubber ball. Meanwhile the original relies on a sleeve around each bolt AND a spring to make the "cushion" part occur between seat and cap at the bolts. Seat and cap are "solid" around the ball.

I'm not sure one has advantage over the other. Change-over from one to the other with the engine/flywheel housing in place relies on small hands/forceps/magnets - and the bolts MUST change as the replacement cap system the bolts are longer. It's fun when the bolt drops out of the forceps inside the housing.

I had difficulty particularly in putting the bolt "keeper pin" in place. Only by expanding the slot in the top of each bolt was it possible to actually put the pin in and have it pass through entirely, retain the bolts from turning, and be caught by the small cotter pin. Of course expanding the slot requires removal of the bolts, grinding the slot, and then replacing. Time consuming in iteration and much easier done with the flywheel housing removed and on a bench. (retrospection here...)

Good luck in any case!

Joe K

Lenny Bruce · 08-01-2022, 02:42 PM

Wow you have inspired me to leave well enough alone LOL!! Everything seems to be operating as it should so I’m going to Cruze on! Thank you for the detailed information I love to learn from all of you friendly A owners!!

07-31-2022, 09:53 AM	#1
Lenny Bruce Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 283	Radius Arm Hello guys. I was greasing my Tudor the other day and noticed the previous owner had disassembled the radius arm. The spacers and springs are missing that hold the ball in place. It was just put back together with the castle nuts. My question is would it be a wise choice to just put the whole kit in and be done with it rather then just replace the spacers/sleeves and springs? I was wondering if replacing the wick for the oil is a pain in the hump? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

07-31-2022, 05:04 PM	#3
Lenny Bruce Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 283	Re: Radius Arm I believe that’s the set up I have. I was just hoping their wasnt some hidden tricks on how to replace it

07-31-2022, 05:56 PM	#4
Lenny Bruce Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 283	Re: Radius Arm My car is a 30 Tudor. Built in June of 1930 so it has the oval Speedo. Early 30 I suppose. So I’m not sure if all the A’s had the springs?

07-31-2022, 06:28 PM	#5
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,899	Re: Radius Arm https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7769&cat=41738 https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7759&cat=41738 https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7770&cat=41738 https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7756&cat=41738 __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

08-01-2022, 04:43 AM	#6
Wick Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gwynn's Island Va Posts: 1,386	Re: Radius Arm Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You can change the Wick and bolts with the motor still in the vehicle, if you have small hands and a magnet and a good light. I've done a few of them, 10min job or 1 hour job,you just never know.

08-01-2022, 06:23 AM	#7
lrjones Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Brooklyn Michigan Posts: 53	Re: Radius Arm I believe if the radius ball has the rubber ball over it, it wouldn't have the springs. Look at both the kits from the vendors. The original has the springs and the rubber ball kit does not, if I remember right.

08-01-2022, 06:52 AM	#8
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,094	Re: Radius Arm The question is, what made the previous owner think he needed the rubber ball set up. Is your radius ball worn?

08-01-2022, 08:46 AM	#9
Lenny Bruce Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 283	Re: Radius Arm Nothing seems worn. I just noticed their was no springs just the castle nuts so I wanted to add the springs if necessary

08-01-2022, 08:53 AM	#10
Bob Bidonde Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 3,464	Re: Radius Arm The diameter of the stock radius arm ball is 1.5". When the ball is worn, it affects the tilt of the front axle. If the ball is worn, have a new one electric welded to your radius rod. Then use a stock metal socket assembly to attach the ball to the flywheel housing. Avoid the rubber ball because it wears quickly and degrades when wet with motor oil. __________________ Bob Bidonde Last edited by Bob Bidonde; 08-01-2022 at 09:26 AM.

08-01-2022, 12:01 PM	#11
Lenny Bruce Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 283	Re: Radius Arm Thanks I appreciate your responses!

08-01-2022, 12:11 PM	#12
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: Radius Arm I have used both original and the replacement version. There is a small difference in front axle "tilt" between the two - but it doesn't seem to affect driving in any way (i.e. I can't detect a difference.) As mentioned the replacement seat and cap should be "solid" - as in no springs or other "cushion" introduced between the seat & cap at the bolts. Cushion/free play is made in the rubber ball. Meanwhile the original relies on a sleeve around each bolt AND a spring to make the "cushion" part occur between seat and cap at the bolts. Seat and cap are "solid" around the ball. I'm not sure one has advantage over the other. Change-over from one to the other with the engine/flywheel housing in place relies on small hands/forceps/magnets - and the bolts MUST change as the replacement cap system the bolts are longer. It's fun when the bolt drops out of the forceps inside the housing. I had difficulty particularly in putting the bolt "keeper pin" in place. Only by expanding the slot in the top of each bolt was it possible to actually put the pin in and have it pass through entirely, retain the bolts from turning, and be caught by the small cotter pin. Of course expanding the slot requires removal of the bolts, grinding the slot, and then replacing. Time consuming in iteration and much easier done with the flywheel housing removed and on a bench. (retrospection here...) Good luck in any case! Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 08-01-2022 at 12:20 PM.

08-01-2022, 02:42 PM	#13
Lenny Bruce Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 283	Re: Radius Arm Wow you have inspired me to leave well enough alone LOL!! Everything seems to be operating as it should so I’m going to Cruze on! Thank you for the detailed information I love to learn from all of you friendly A owners!!