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Old 06-18-2022, 03:09 PM   #1
JOHNCL
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Default Model B distributor rebuild

I know how to change the main shaft bushings in a Model B distributor. I need to know how to take the slop out of a worn advance mechanism. The tube to which the cam attaches is sloppy on its pin and seems not to have a bushing. This allows rotor wobble. Thanks in advance for advice.
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Old 06-18-2022, 04:36 PM   #2
jack backer
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

The B distributor advance plate will wear,as will the upper/lower shaft bore. Although they are a vast improvement over the manual A distributor when they are worn they won’t advance correctly and lead to trouble , Dave Renner at Renners Corner is about the best for B distributor parts, but I believe the advance plate, pins and flyweights are unobtainium .. FSI offers a good mechanical advance distributor with petronix Hall effect electronic primary (magnets replace points) they are about the best to use in my opinion..
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Old 06-18-2022, 07:27 PM   #3
Synchro909
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

IMO, the best thing you can do with a B distributor is put it in the vice and squeeze till it breaks, then scatter the bits as far and wide as you can, then put in a modern one (like the FSI unit).
I posted recently that I'm sure that the main reason B engines are so prone to cracking is those rotten distributors. I have trouble accepting that they are an improvement over the A distributor. In fact, I have opted for an A dizzy on my B engine and on the rather modified A engine I use for the big jobs.
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Old 06-19-2022, 03:58 PM   #4
Joe K
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

I see Renner has the shaft - but you have to press off your own "upperworks" and press it onto the new shaft.

The upperworks is where the cams live (which wear or get hung up.)

At one point I believe Renner was reproducing the entire shaft including the centrifugal advance - or would take your shaft for a re-work (which probably involves all of the above I mentioned.)

They might be worth a call to explore that option although I expect by the time they're done you might be more cost effective with a digital distributor or even a Mallory.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...odel-a.220263/

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Old 06-19-2022, 07:10 PM   #5
Sunny the Model A
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synchro909 View Post
IMO, the best thing you can do with a B distributor is put it in the vice and squeeze till it breaks, then scatter the bits as far and wide as you can, then put in a modern one (like the FSI unit.
I posted recently that I'm sure that the main reason B engines are so prone to cracking is those rotten distributors. I have trouble accepting that hey are an improvement over the A distributor. In fact, I have opted for an A dizzy on my B engine and on the rather modified A engine I use for the big jobs.
HAHAHA hilarious! I know the feeling. I scrap and I often send appliances to the crusher, so when my Model A gives me grief, I calmly walk away, pick up a good sledge hammer and proceed to beat the absolute daylights out of the poor appliances I scrap. better than taking it out on the car.
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Old 06-20-2022, 06:30 AM   #6
Chuck Kuntz
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

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I have an NOS shaft and advance mechanism for $45
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Old 06-20-2022, 10:17 AM   #7
Joe K
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

I'll take that Chuck.

Let me know if I'm the first to speak.

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Old 06-21-2022, 06:27 AM   #8
Chuck Kuntz
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

It's yours Joe. I will send a private message with details now.
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:35 AM   #9
CT Jack
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Default Re: Model B distributor rebuild

I agree with Jack Backer's suggestion to consider using FS Ignition's all in one distributor. I have one in my "A" and it has made driving a joy. The distributor they offer is caller a "Zipper", looks just like a standard Model A and is easy to install and adjust. The Petronix Hall effect ignition model which replaces the standard electro-mechanical points works extremely well. The counter weights function just like a "B" distributor and best of all the retard/advance controls are locked. No more fiddling with levers. Engine startup is quick, plugs stay clean, and the spark advance is always correct for all driving conditions.
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