Can't fit a socket on front oil pan bolts

[Laredo]

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get to the two innermost oil pan bolts? I'm trying to drop the pan because I found several shims lodged in the drain hole when I went to change oil.

I can't get a socket in between the front of the oil pan and the radiator support/crossmember. It's too tight. And too tight for a wrench. Any ideas? Is this common? The Les Andrews book makes no mention of this issue.

[nkaminar]

Different sockets from different manufacturers have different outside diameters. Look at Snap-On. Another idea is to move the engine back by removing the rear mounting bolts that screw into the bell housing and prying the engine back. If you have the Float-A-Motor mounts you can just pry the engine back enough to get the bolts out. One other idea is to grind off some of the outside diameter of a socket.

[burner31]

Grind a socket down until it fits, now you have a "special tool"

[Laredo]

I finally found a small enough socket to fit in there and get them broken loose and remove the rest of the way by hand. Definitely wasn't expecting that roadblock!

[Laredo]

Very nervous to see what I'm going to find when I get the pan off because of those wayward shims.... Was running great with no noises, so hopefully they were just left behind during the rebuild.

[JoeCB]

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For the next time... replace them with a couple of socket head cap screws (with washers)

Joe B

[Ivan in southeast va.]

You will soon find out that model a's are the simplest cars to work on, and nothing is easy. You will earn every cut and scrape. However, with the oil pan bolts, if a socket doesn't work, I use a wrench. Can't say that I have had a problem with this.

[bruceincam]

I've found that a 1/4"-drive socket with a longer extension works for me.

[Dean Lemoine]

The real fun is getting them back in there.

[BTERRY29]

Originally Posted by bruceincam

I've found that a 1/4"-drive socket with a longer extension works for me.

yup, my go too. i had an engine with shims in the pan too. loose rod nuts spit them out. good opportunity to adjust everything including the mains.

[Synchro909]

I'm not interested in showing my cars so I cut a screw driver slot in the head of 6 of those bolts - 4 at the front and 2 at the back. I have a long screwdriver with a square shank. If I use a 1/4" open ended spanner on it, I get plenty of tension and they just spin out. It's not difficult to sit the bolt on the tip of the screwdriver while I raise it into position.
BTW, I always do this with the front end of the car on jack stands so I can get under there easily and turn the steering so that the tie rod doesn't get in the way.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by JoeCB

For the next time... replace them with a couple of socket head cap screws (with washers)

Joe B

That's probably the best idea, makes it easiry to re-install also.

[Laredo]

Originally Posted by JoeCB

For the next time... replace them with a couple of socket head cap screws (with washers)

Joe B

I think I might do that! Thanks for the tip.

I'm going to make a new post about what I found inside the pan and also include pics of the underside of the engine and details so as to not muddy the waters on this post.

[TomInCologne]

a 1/4" socket with a long extension did the trick for me...

[rotorwrench]

Felpro manufactures a set of four plastic studs that also have a retainer feature to hold the pan so the bolts can be installed while keeping the gasket in place. These are available from model A parts sources and are invaluable when working under the car. The front seal is the fun part. Be careful of your choice in gaskets. Some work better than others.

[JKY]

Originally Posted by bruceincam

I've found that a 1/4"-drive socket with a longer extension works for me.

Bingo!

[Will N]

Originally Posted by bruceincam

I've found that a 1/4"-drive socket with a longer extension works for me.

Ditto

[katy]

Originally Posted by bruceincam

I've found that a 1/4"-drive socket with a longer extension works for me.

Ditto

[goodcar]

Originally Posted by Laredo

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get to the two innermost oil pan bolts? I'm trying to drop the pan because I found several shims lodged in the drain hole when I went to change oil.

I can't get a socket in between the front of the oil pan and the radiator support/crossmember. It's too tight. And too tight for a wrench. Any ideas? Is this common? The Les Andrews book makes no mention of this issue.

1/4-inch drive swivel socket with extension.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by goodcar

1/4-inch drive swivel socket with extension.

Works for me.