Distributor Help!

[ModelAMitch]

Thanks everyone for all the words of wisdom I really do appreciate it. I ordered the Les Andrew’s Vol 1 but wanted to get going on this repair before it came in.
Unfortunately I did not get around to removing the distributor tonight, I was more focused on getting at the timing gear. Although, everyone spoke of how easily it was to remove the distributor and I couldn’t figure it out. I realized the screw on the side of the head was hidden behind my exhaust manifold. My exhaust manifold is unlike all the others I see online, mine is much taller. The previous owner said it directs warm air into the cab when your driving in colder climates? There is a hole in the firewall directly in front of the manifold so maybe he was right. I could maybe remove the screw to get the distributor off without taking the exhaust manifold off, but reinstalling the screw to hold the distributor on looks like it would be very difficult.. but on another note - I removed the light bar, rad, generator in order to remove the front case. I got the inspection cover off, but hand cranking the engine won’t spin the timing gear. So I started removing more bolts, I have a jack under the engine with a piece of wood because it looks like the two large bolts on the front of the engine hold the engine to the crossmember. It also appears as though there are 4 more oil pan bolts that hold the front cover on? Is this correct? I’m sure the Les Andrew’s book will have this info but I don’t have it yet and want to get going on this.. post #6 by nkaminar said tilt the cover back to avoid dropping the spring and plunger, but that seems almost impossible because of the front crossmember in the way.
Thank you guys again, hopefully I made sense with all that.. I will try again tomorrow to get that cover off and assess the gears.
Then onto the distributor..

[1crosscut]

You don't need to fully remove the bolt holding the distributor in place. Just loosen it.

[Synchro909]

The easiest way to check whether it is the timing gear is to take the top off the distributor, then crank it over while watching the rotor button. If it is stripped, the button will not move. No need to even take out the plugs.

[Brentwood Bob]

Wait for the red book. The timing gear has a side cover on the passenger side that will show it to you.

[ModelAMitch]

I have the “inspection cover” off the passenger side of the case. The teeth on the timing gear look okay, but I can only see maybe 30% of the gear. When I hand crank the engine the gear does not spin.

[nkaminar]

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Yes, you have to remove the 4 pan bolts to take the cover off.

If you take the cover straight off the plunger will not fall out. Just make sure you don't loose the plunger and spring and any spacers that may be there.

If the cam gear is not turning when you turn the crankshaft then it is likely that the gear is the type with the aluminum center and that the center has delaminated from the gear.

[Patrick L.]

On most of the heater style exhaust manifolds, there is a hole in the side to allow access to the distributor screw. As I mentioned before, just loosen the nut and back the screw out just far enough to allow the distributor to come up.

I don't remove light bar to remove radiator. I don't want to damage the paint.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by ModelAMitch

I have the “inspection cover” off the passenger side of the case. The teeth on the timing gear look okay, but I can only see maybe 30% of the gear. When I hand crank the engine the gear does not spin.

Sounds like you're close to finding the root cause and the next step is to remove the timing cover.

[Rob Doe]

Guys, in post #6, ModelAMitch says that he has a jack and a 2 by 4 under the motor, but didn't say anything about loosening the bolts at the rear motor mount. If he jacks things up for clearance, won't he run the risk of cracking something at the back of the engine?

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Rob Doe

Guys, in post #6, ModelAMitch says that he has a jack and a 2 by 4 under the motor, but didn't say anything about loosening the bolts at the rear motor mount. If he jacks things up for clearance, won't he run the risk of cracking something at the back of the engine?

Yep, clutch/bellhousing.

[katy]

Originally Posted by 1crosscut

You don't need to fully remove the bolt holding the distributor in place. Just loosen it.

You need to back it out about 1/8" or maybe a little more, it has a shoulder on it.

[ModelAMitch]

Originally Posted by Rob Doe

Guys, in post #6, ModelAMitch says that he has a jack and a 2 by 4 under the motor, but didn't say anything about loosening the bolts at the rear motor mount. If he jacks things up for clearance, won't he run the risk of cracking something at the back of the engine?

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Yep, clutch/bellhousing.

Thank you guys. I currently have the jack and wood there because it looks like the front of the engine will come downwards after I remove all the front bolts. I don't currently have any tension on the rear bolts. I will be sure to loosen those bolts or remove them all together before lifting the front of the engine to get the timing cover off. Before I do this, the oil pan is strong enough to hold the weight of the engine?? I will get a larger piece of wood to help disperse the weight better, but it still feels like a lot of weight for the oil pan to support..

[ModelAMitch]

Originally Posted by katy

You need to back it out about 1/8" or maybe a little more, it has a shoulder on it.

Okay thank you Katy, once I get this timing gear sorted I will move onto removing the distributor.

[ModelAMitch]

Hey guys, For those of you still reading thank you for your help so far.
I managed to remove the engine mount bolts, jack it up, remove the cover and found 6 or so teeth missing on my timing gear. Of course I can’t see any of the teeth anywhere with just the cover off. My next question is what I should do while I wait for my new gear. Should I drain the oil, see if I get lucky and have the chewed up teeth come out the drain? Or do I need to drop the pan and do a full cleanse?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by ModelAMitch

Hey guys, For those of you still reading thank you for your help so far.
I managed to remove the engine mount bolts, jack it up, remove the cover and found 6 or so teeth missing on my timing gear. Of course I can’t see any of the teeth anywhere with just the cover off. My next question is what I should do while I wait for my new gear. Should I drain the oil, see if I get lucky and have the chewed up teeth come out the drain? Or do I need to drop the pan and do a full cleanse?

The teeth will be not much more than mush. No amount of draining or flushing would make me happy that there is nothing left in the bottom of the engine. I strongly suggest dropping the sump (pan), removing the dipper tray and cleaning it out properly. Clean the oil pump screen while you are there and clean out the valve chamber. It is quite likely some gear material found its way there before the final failure.