AV8 Pedals...

[PeteVS]

I'm working on an AV8 pretty much out of the Bishop Tardel book. I'm making my own K member (I have a '32 K, but I can't bring myself to cut it up.) With the new K member, I'm keeping the pedal pivot point as it would have been had I used the '32 K member and pedal box. Also, I'm locating it up for a stock A rear / torque tube length. I don't have a body yet- just a really shot cowl (plans are to get a Brookville body when the chassis is ready.) NOW, the question is, has anyone else done the same thing, and if so, how did '32 pedal lengths work out with the fire wall? The book says to shorten them 3/4". I have an opportunity to computer plasma cut out new pedals in the welding class I'm taking and I just want to get the length right before I commit to 3/8" steel. Thanks!!

[ajohn]

I'm looking at a similar situation with my Model A frame with a flathead engine.It seems that a shaft could be made to locate the petals where they are best suited. James

[rotorwrench]

I bought one of Vern's crossmembers for an AV8 so I wouldn't have to cut up an original. I may even end up doing some slight modification to Vern's piece before it is all over with. An outfit that was named Rocky Mountain Hot Rods was making 32 clone pedal set ups for a while but there web-site disappeared and likely they did too. Their pieces were most likely cut the way you are planning. Not forged like originals but should be strong enough and addaptable. The part that was stamped by Ford to house the pedal shaft arrangement was welded steel on the clone set but didn't look too bad. Hell Vern's crossmember wasn't stamped either. If you want exact dimentions, I'd recommend making cardboard cut outs to get the size just right for your final patterns. Every installation is likely going to be a little different anyway. Since you may not have time on your side, just cut them long to original dimentions then cut & reweld later or call Vern up and see if the book was accurate on this. The 29 Model A floor is definitely different that the 32 but not by a lot. When oportunity knocks do what you have to to get the job done

Kerby

[Evil-Eric]

Its my understanding in the Bishop/Tardel book they used a 33-34 wishbone. With that being shorter than a 32, moves the pedals further into the firewall area. And I can see where that would be a problem. My past 29 was on a 32 frame and I had no problems..My current ride is a 31 truck with 32 k-member and pedals, and stock A rear, and there is no clearance problems. Of course all this mock-up there is going to be little areas that might need adjusting. Hope this helps hard to explaine at times

[rotorwrench]

On the HAMB, AV8 (Mike BIshop) admitted that there are mistakes in the book that could not be corrected after the final edit. One of them is the front radius rod (wish-bone). They actually used the 32. AV8 posted a thread on there on how to best modify a 34 wishbone to work by adding a rear section from a model A bone with insertion splices. This gave the added advantage of more caster than before plus more adaptability.

On the pedals, they were probably shortened for personal preference and possibly to clear the later type steering column that they used since it comes through under the firewall and between the pedals. These are quetions I've had too but I haven't gotten that far yet. There are a lot of quetions I'd like to ask Vern about the book.

Kerby

[Karl Wolf]

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I did the same thing that you are doing... My best thought is- get the body, put in the steering, work out the pedals... AND, no matter who does it, YOU are the guy that has do the measuring... everyone seems to do things a bit different, and sometimes there are mistakes made in noting or transcribing... Karl
Contact me if you want, be glad to help

[PeteVS]

Thanks guys! I've seen the old Rocky Mountain pedal set up but I feel confident making my own pedals out of 3/8" plate. In fact I made one for my brother's '32 so I wouldn't have to weld a leg on the bottom for the master cylinder. I'm also making a hybrid wishbone ("A" rear and '48 legs so I won't have to severly bend the steering arms down on the spindles.) The only thing I haven't done is set my really crummy cowl on the frame with a set of stock pedals in place and see how that works out. I have some photos in the album on my profile page.

[Jason M.]

I think we took closer to 1-1/2" out of my pedals just to find a more comfortable height. They where also heated and tweaked to be symetrical off each side of the steering column. Everything works but like the rest of car need a bit of final tweaking and finishing.

[PeteVS]

Jason: Thanks for posting the pix. Do you have any with a cowl in place? My main concern there is how the pedals interface with the bottom of the firewall. Also, are you using the Bishop-Tardel master cylinder setup?

[Jason M.]

I did the B/T style master cylinder. This is the best I can do as a ref with the cowl in place. Still need to plumb the brakes.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Pete, I have a set of '32 pedals where I can find them if you need to test. No cutting, though!

[PeteVS]

Bruce- I'm ahead of you on the pedal situation. I've got a spare pair too!
Did a mockup today of original '32 pedals (with a wood dowel shaft!), and my not too nice cowl. (One side is missing the subrail extension, the other is missing the "corner bracket?" Anyway, it looks like full length pedals will clear the metal firewall.



Just went out to the garage and took another look. They'll clear the metal part of the firewall, but they do contact the bottom edge of the toe board on the backside. I'll have to offset the long straight portion of the pedals so instead of being centered on the pivot point, they'll be all to the front / lower side.

[62pan]

I am using a 31 Model A frame with 32 K member and a 32 pedal base but I am using 34 pedals. They end up in the same position as stock Model A. The pedal base needs alittle trimming to use the brake lite switch. They will need tweeked to fit around the steering column though.

[PeteVS]

Somewhere, I have a set of '34 pedals- I'll have to dig them out and take a look, but as I recall, they seemed to have some severe offsetting bends. They worked in a '32 setup though, huh? Interesting.

[aldixie]

I went with a F1 transmission crossmember and pedals on my AV8 sport coupe. It was really easy to install. Eventually I'll put in some X bracing.

[PeteVS]

I had a chance to get an F1 crossmember. At the time, I didn't realize that it was a fairly popular swap. Did you mount an unsplit wishbone to it? If so, how? Thanks!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by aldixie

I went with a F1 transmission crossmember and pedals on my AV8 sport coupe. It was really easy to install. Eventually I'll put in some X bracing.

I'm doing the same. Beauty of this X-member and pedals is no cutting of pedals and the M/S is already set to mount correctly off the back of the X member.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Somewhere, I have a set of '34 pedals- I'll have to dig them out and take a look, but as I recall, they seemed to have some severe offsetting bends. They worked in a '32 setup though, huh? Interesting.

Don't quote me but I think '33-'34 1 ton pedal arms are the same part number as '32.