The Ford Barn

52 Ford · 11-15-2021, 11:48 AM

Right side tie rod end the castle nut is lower than the cotter pin hole. Anyone else have this issue?

Bruce_MO · 11-15-2021, 08:27 PM

I assume you mean there aren’t enough threads to fit the nut and get a cotter pin in. I have seen some variation in the length of the stud on tie rod ends. You probably have one that’s too short, and/or the steering arm boss is a bit too thick. Exchange it for another? Maybe you can compare a few to select the one with the longest stud.

52 Ford · 11-16-2021, 10:37 AM

No there are to many threads. When tight the cotter pin is above the castle nut

TJ · 11-16-2021, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 52 Ford

No there are to many threads. When tight the cotter pin is above the castle nut

Are you sure you have the tie rod end with the correct taper? If you have the correct one then you can add washers to raise the nut or check around for a taller castle nut.

1948F-1Pickup · 11-16-2021, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 52 Ford

Right side tie rod end the castle nut is lower than the cotter pin hole. Anyone else have this issue?

That’s a little unusual on a stocker. I replaced mine on the ‘48 a couple years ago with Moog pieces. Generally a bit more “generous” in the taper dimension than McQuay Norris or TRW items.
It’s not unheard of to need to add a washer under a tie rod nut, but mostly on a spindle where someone doesn’t know how to taper-machine correctly……. Not a situation with stock stuff.

52 Ford · 11-17-2021, 09:45 AM

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Theses are Moog tie rod ends. The tapered hole in the spindle seems to be ok. I checked it with a set of calipers 5/8" all around the hole and the taper on the tie rod is 5/8".

rotorwrench · 11-17-2021, 12:59 PM

If there is no difference between the nuts on same brand rod ends then the tapered stub part may have been for a different assembly at manufacture. This would show a difference in the threaded stub length. It should be no problem to washer it up. If the nuts are different then a person had to go looking for nuts.

In aerospace hardware, there are long thread bolts and short thread bolts and they have different castellated nuts for each on cotter pin applications. Long thread nuts have a taller profile.

11-15-2021, 11:48 AM	#1
52 Ford Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Posts: 38	52 F1 tie rod end castle nut Right side tie rod end the castle nut is lower than the cotter pin hole. Anyone else have this issue?

11-15-2021, 08:27 PM	#2
Bruce_MO Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 433	Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut I assume you mean there aren’t enough threads to fit the nut and get a cotter pin in. I have seen some variation in the length of the stud on tie rod ends. You probably have one that’s too short, and/or the steering arm boss is a bit too thick. Exchange it for another? Maybe you can compare a few to select the one with the longest stud.

11-16-2021, 10:37 AM	#3
52 Ford Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Posts: 38	Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut No there are to many threads. When tight the cotter pin is above the castle nut

11-17-2021, 09:45 AM	#6
52 Ford Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Posts: 38	Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Theses are Moog tie rod ends. The tapered hole in the spindle seems to be ok. I checked it with a set of calipers 5/8" all around the hole and the taper on the tie rod is 5/8".

11-17-2021, 12:59 PM	#7
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,438	Re: 52 F1 tie rod end castle nut If there is no difference between the nuts on same brand rod ends then the tapered stub part may have been for a different assembly at manufacture. This would show a difference in the threaded stub length. It should be no problem to washer it up. If the nuts are different then a person had to go looking for nuts. In aerospace hardware, there are long thread bolts and short thread bolts and they have different castellated nuts for each on cotter pin applications. Long thread nuts have a taller profile.