The Ford Barn

51504bat · 09-12-2023, 08:27 AM

Personally, I'd be wary of any "rebuilt" 94 unless I knew the builder. Over the years parts get mismatched and interchanged to the point that you never really know what you're buying. If it were me, I'd find a core and send it to CharlieNY for a correct rebuild. But that's JMO.

scicala · 09-12-2023, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petehoovie

That may be a '52-'53 EAB carb, but has the wrong base from a '54 to '56 carb.

Sal

Zax40 · 09-12-2023, 09:50 AM

Would this be the one he needs? I believe this is a stock 8BA carb and intake.

1952henry · 09-12-2023, 04:08 PM

Pretty simple really, don’t have a base with the extra doo-dad for the “pv” look alike in the base, for a flathead. It must have the vacuum port for the L-A-M, if you need it. Later flathead carb tops had a relief for the taller right angle nozzles. Any 8BA, EAB, or 7RT (with car air horn) carb has the vacuum port if you aren’t going to have it “judged”. They are pretty simple to rebuild. Key thing, clean, clean, clean all passages. Daytona parts will get get you where you want to be. If you are after some sort of trophy, find someone who will plate steel parts and chromate the body, with the right markings. Say no to clear coat and spray paint. And for heaven’s sake, don’t sand/file the top to correct warpage. Make a jig and flatten it. Why file off something marginally thin to begin with.

tubman · 09-13-2023, 11:13 PM

No luck finding an 8BA distributor vacuum line. You will probably have to make your own, but it seems that the "Ford Nuts" are now available. There was a suggestion of using "cunifer" tubing in the thread I referenced. The stuff bends much easier than steel tube and works great.

09-12-2023, 08:27 AM	#21
51504bat Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: SoCal-Redlands Posts: 3,024	Re: Correct carb Personally, I'd be wary of any "rebuilt" 94 unless I knew the builder. Over the years parts get mismatched and interchanged to the point that you never really know what you're buying. If it were me, I'd find a core and send it to CharlieNY for a correct rebuild. But that's JMO. __________________ Making the simple complicated for over 30 years.

09-12-2023, 04:08 PM	#24
1952henry Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: North Dakota Posts: 1,621	Re: Correct carb Pretty simple really, don’t have a base with the extra doo-dad for the “pv” look alike in the base, for a flathead. It must have the vacuum port for the L-A-M, if you need it. Later flathead carb tops had a relief for the taller right angle nozzles. Any 8BA, EAB, or 7RT (with car air horn) carb has the vacuum port if you aren’t going to have it “judged”. They are pretty simple to rebuild. Key thing, clean, clean, clean all passages. Daytona parts will get get you where you want to be. If you are after some sort of trophy, find someone who will plate steel parts and chromate the body, with the right markings. Say no to clear coat and spray paint. And for heaven’s sake, don’t sand/file the top to correct warpage. Make a jig and flatten it. Why file off something marginally thin to begin with. __________________ I dig coal, which provides motivation for EVs. Last edited by 1952henry; 09-13-2023 at 04:11 AM.

09-13-2023, 11:13 PM	#25
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,319	Re: Correct carb No luck finding an 8BA distributor vacuum line. You will probably have to make your own, but it seems that the "Ford Nuts" are now available. There was a suggestion of using "cunifer" tubing in the thread I referenced. The stuff bends much easier than steel tube and works great.