Fuel tank cleaning

[dubnutty]

I got the '29 wagon in the garage and started some engine work. I couldn't remove the fuel tank cap. A little persuasion with my giant pipe wrench and some muscle it came loose. Now the horror! I'm not sure what it is but there are mounds of rust and stinky stuff in there. OK, gotta take tank out and have it cleaned. I've read about how to do that but once I get it out who will clean for me? I did know of an old time radiator shop to take it to but I'm not sure if he is still in business. I was looking to the local Las Vegas Barners on who they use? I really don't want to ship it out of state. I could drive to LALA LAND, to some place there. Any help would be great. Thanks to all!

[Mitch//pa]

looking for a better tank maybe a good idea especially since its already going to be out on the bench.. it sounds like the structure may possibly be compromised fron extreme rust so do a careful examination if you decide to save it.

[1crosscut]

I recently cleaned the fuel tank on my 48 Chrysler Traveler. It had a considerable amount of gummy varnished fuel in it. I ended up lashing the tank to the open end of an electric concrete mixer. I threw in a couple hand fulls of small sharp stones along with a gallon of carburetor cleaner and let it rotate for a few hours. Tank came out clean as can be. If you try this with your A tank you probably would want to use some small nuts in the 1/4" range as they would have to get past a the baffles in the tank. Also you could use a magnet to help get them out afterward. The odds of you getting all of them back out is at the end of the cleaning is not good but leaving some in there wont hurt anything.

[Bob from Northport]

Call or contact Brent Terry in Tennessee. His shop can cut the rank apart and repair/clean it professionally. They will weld up and bad spots or possible leak points. Not cheap, but worth the effort to have him do it.

[Gold Digger]

Not one for cleaning cement mixer stile, but I have a friend who cleans tanks this way and he swears that small sheet metal screws is the best way to go for media.

[ronn]

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I recently cleaned the fuel tank on my 48 Chrysler Traveler. It had a considerable amount of gummy varnished fuel in it. I ended up lashing the tank to the open end of an electric concrete mixer. I threw in a couple hand fulls of small sharp stones along with a gallon of carburetor cleaner and let it rotate for a few hours. Tank came out clean as can be. If you try this with your A tank you probably would want to use some small nuts in the 1/4" range as they would have to get past a the baffles in the tank. Also you could use a magnet to help get them out afterward. The odds of you getting all of them back out is at the end of the cleaning is not good but leaving some in there wont hurt anything.
__________________
a piece of chain will make sure it all comes out................. instead of nuts or screws

[HoarseWhisperer]

Originally Posted by Bob from Northport

Call or contact Brent Terry in Tennessee. His shop can cut the rank apart and repair/clean it professionally. They will weld up and bad spots or possible leak points. Not cheap, but worth the effort to have him do it.

I was under the impression that a Model A gas tank should never be welded; soldered only, no?

[John]

A gas tank can be welded provided it has been purged of all combustible gases. Doing otherwise will most likely scatter the tank and any bystanders over a considerable portion of real estate. Safety in the process of handling a gas tank is of the utmost concern! This is a job for the professionals!

[HoarseWhisperer]

Originally Posted by John

A gas tank can be welded provided it has been purged of all combustible gases. Doing otherwise will most likely scatter the tank and any bystanders over a considerable portion of real estate. Safety in the process of handling a gas tank is of the utmost concern! This is a job for the professionals!

So the caution in the Les Andrews Handbook Vol I to solder instead of weld a gas tank is incorrect?

I just want clarification as I am in the process of removing a tank for repair.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Well, I do not want to dispute the advice that Les has given but the tank was originally welded (--not soldered) at the factory, ...and to open them up, we cut thru the factory weld. We use a jig fixture to re-weld the tank back together and I feel certain you could not expect good results by soldering. If you feel like you can, then by all means give it a try and report back how it does after driving the car some.

[HoarseWhisperer]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Well, I do not want to dispute the advice that Les has given but the tank was originally welded (--not soldered) at the factory, ...and to open them up, we cut thru the factory weld. We use a jig fixture to re-weld the tank back together and I feel certain you could not expect good results by soldering. If you feel like you can, then by all means give it a try and report back how it does after driving the car some.

I didn't feel like I can, I was just asking for clarification from a source that stated hairline cracks could occur from the welding torch. Thanks for your input, Brent.

[henry's 31]

Can you give Brent Terry's shop phone number for when I restore my Dad's car?

Thanks, HENRY'S 31

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by henry's 31

Can you give Brent Terry's shop phone number for when I restore my Dad's car?

Thanks, HENRY'S 31

click on the website which is on the bottom of his post

[diomed]

Originally Posted by dubnutty

I got the '29 wagon in the garage and started some engine work. I couldn't remove the fuel tank cap. A little persuasion with my giant pipe wrench and some muscle it came loose. Now the horror! I'm not sure what it is but there are mounds of rust and stinky stuff in there. OK, gotta take tank out and have it cleaned. I've read about how to do that but once I get it out who will clean for me? I did know of an old time radiator shop to take it to but I'm not sure if he is still in business. I was looking to the local Las Vegas Barners on who they use? I really don't want to ship it out of state. I could drive to LALA LAND, to some place there. Any help would be great. Thanks to all!

Quicks is an older radiator shop. They'd be your best bet here in town.

Quicks Radiator Service
2925 N Las Vegas Blvd
North Las Vegas, NV 89030

(702) 642-1163



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[dubnutty]

Thanks diomed. I'll give them a try. I knew there had to be some place in town that could do it. Have you ever used this shop for this type of work?

[diomed]

Originally Posted by dubnutty

Thanks diomed. I'll give them a try. I knew there had to be some place in town that could do it. Have you ever used this shop for this type of work?

No, but I've used them for a lot of cooling system items. The shop has been around a long time, and are pretty capable.

There are plenty of worthless shops here in Las Vegas, so I don't mind sharing info on the ones who actually are competent.

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[henry's 31]

Hi Mitch:

Thanks for letting me know how to contact him.

Henry's 31

[pat in Santa Cruz]

if its dried gasoline, a radiator shop chemical boil out will do it. But if its rust or old tank sealer, the baffles will prevent any large media from getting at all the rust or liner behind the baffles. The only way is to cut out the back of the tank and bead blast it. Then weld it back up. If you do not know how to weld a gas tank, don't try it. Send it to Brent.

[C26Pinelake]

If it is horrendous, look for a good used or restored tank and save yourself the agony. They are not uncommon or overly expensive especially at the larger swap meets like Hershey! Wayne