Remove 1 ton rear brake removal

[madspeed]

Need to replace some leaking wheel cylinders and get the brakes buttoned up. Anyone have a tutorial on how to remove these rears? 39 tonner

[cas3]

!st, place a small drain pan under the end to catch the bearing oil. Next, take off the 8 bolts around the end of the axle. A good whack on the end will usually pop the axle loose. Inside you will find two large nuts with a lock tab holding them. Often times there is not clearance for a normal socket in there so then you need to get one of the thin steel sockets just for this. You may find the last guy took it off with a chisel. Once those nuts are off, the bearing falls out, and the drum slides off.

[1952henry]

Should be 3 screws holding drum to hub. If you can't take those out, remove rear axle shaft, bearing retainer nuts, bearings, and slide whole hub/drum off. The axle flange has cone washers, which require you to pound on flange to get them out. May have to back off shoes if the drum has a lip.

Better to focus on removing flathead screws and slide drum off. Panther pee and an impact screw driver will be your friends

[madspeed]

Ok, got it to this point. I'll need to get a socket that fits this nut. Is it a common size? Largest I have is a 36mm from a Dodge Ram but its no where near large enough. Also, is there a torque spec when reinstalling the nut?

[madspeed]

Forgot pic

[madspeed]

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Also, I assume the gear oil is normal as its a free floating setup or is there a seal that should be replaced while this is apart? I'll also need new gaskets for the axle to hub, where can those be sourced?

[Bob C]

This is what the socket looks like.

[madspeed]

awesome, I'll run out in between the rain showers and get a measurement for size. THX

[madspeed]

Originally Posted by Bob C

This is what the socket looks like.

2 3/8 sound correct?

[Rodrelic]

When you get the tab bent up and can get the nut off & the lock plate off, could go tighten the inner nut to observe the amount of adjustment, probably less than 1/4 turn. Then if cone and cups look good know what the adjustment should be. I always went snug and back off 1/3 turn, but that was big trucks.

[tubman]

I had one of those large sockets that I used for the full-floating hubs on my vintage dirt modified. I got it from Speedway Motors, but that was almost 30 years ago.

[1952henry]

Ford actually supplied these sockets in tool kits. Hard to find. I have one and traded one to a friend. Had the M for Moore forging.

[cas3]

years ago many of the auto parts stores had a variety they would loan out to get the job done. Probably not any more in this world today. 4x4 guys always have them, any of those in your neighborhood ?

[madspeed]

Originally Posted by Rodrelic

When you get the tab bent up and can get the nut off & the lock plate off, could go tighten the inner nut to observe the amount of adjustment, probably less than 1/4 turn. Then if cone and cups look good know what the adjustment should be. I always went snug and back off 1/3 turn, but that was big trucks.

Small world, I'll bet this looks familiar

[GB SISSON]

I should have a NAPA number for the rear oil seal. I will be in the shop in a while and look. I usually make a gasket from a cereal box for the axle flange. Smear both sides with your choice of sealer.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by madspeed

Small world, I'll bet this looks familiar

[Rodrelic]

Cool beans, hope it’s happy there, this best place to get info, & van pelt sales.

[madspeed]

Got it all apart and found the rotted wheel cylinder. I'll clean everything up before assembly. Do you recommend painting anything ? What type of lubricant goes on the moving parts, can I use disc brake lube that I have?

[5851a]

I used to use Lubriplate #110 brake lube. Not sure whats in it but a small can has lasted me most of my life.

[madspeed]

I have a can of brake lube, was bought and used for disc brak backing plates and glides but I assume it should work.