The Ford Barn

Dicky · 02-11-2013, 05:34 PM

Well I have finely made the decision to put another engine in my 1935 Ford. I have been dealing with it overheating for the last 8 years. I have done everything to this motor (thanks for everyones help over the years). I need to know which flathead engines would interchange with my 1936 LB engine. If I remember right, the 1937 & 1938 would be an easy swap. I would like to put a stronger 59AB engine in it. Since I am starting from scratch I am open to any flathead. I am open for suggestions. Dicky [email protected]

PeterC · 02-11-2013, 06:40 PM

Many Ford flathead years will fit - I am happy with the 59 Block I put in my 35 but my motivation was motivaition (more power) - not overheating - not sure what "done everything to this motor" means and assume you have an excellent radiator, hoses, fan and pumps. The 59 block will require excellent cooling system as well so not sure a replacment block is your answer - depends on block condition. Was the current block stripped down and the water jackets fully cleaned?

Dicky · 02-11-2013, 07:11 PM

I recored my radiator, Skip rebuilt my water pumps, engine rebuilt but studs keep coming out ( THere were 15 or so heli coils put in when the engine was rebuilt). Even when the head bolts were tight, my engine ran hot.

NormC · 02-11-2013, 07:20 PM

I just replaced my 36LB last month with a 46' 59A in a 36' pick up. You can use your intake manifold and exhaust manifold, though your 36LB heads will not work. Your 35' distributor will work as well. The engine mounting hardware and location is the same, no modification required. I used flex upper radiator hoses from the local auto parts store. No changes required for the transmission to be bolted up to the 59A. It was a real easy conversion. Good luck!

46Fordpickup · 02-11-2013, 11:06 PM

I knew a guy that put a rebuilt LB engine in a 36 roadster and had heating problems with. He pulled it, tore it down completely and tempered the block. End of problem. The first rebuild was also balancd and blueprinted. He spent a ton of money on that engine.

Kahuna · 02-12-2013, 12:55 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Tempered?

ford38v8 · 02-12-2013, 02:58 AM

He got mad at it.

jack orchard · 02-12-2013, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kahuna

Tempered?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford38v8

He got mad at it.

That's good. I like that. ...jack

franksford · 02-12-2013, 11:36 AM

i have emailed you three pictures of how i set up a 59a in my 36. Frank

franksford · 02-12-2013, 11:44 AM

you email is not working. email or call me. Frank [email protected] (616) 874-1224

Brian · 02-12-2013, 12:19 PM

Dicky, One more little detail; when fitting a 37 or later engine into a 35 you'll find a misalignment between lower radiator outlets and block inlets, which precludes using the original straight hoses, this is easily overcome by using 8BA bottom radiator hoses.

Charlie ny · 02-12-2013, 12:38 PM

Dicky,
Overheating or not your LB motor is worth some decent $$$$ if it's not
over .060 plus on the bores. I've run an LB at plus .080 with no problems but then
too I've had some that required sleeves at plus .060.
Charlie ny

Dicky · 02-12-2013, 06:01 PM

I do not know what the bore is. I will be pulling the heads this weekend and maybe I can tell.

JM 35 Sedan · 02-13-2013, 12:36 AM

Dicky, I wouldn't be so quick to dump that little 221cid, 21 stud LB engine. I wouldn't trade the little '35 21 stud 0.030" over bore (babbitt) engine in my Avatar car for a 59 or 8ba engine. This car runs very well and I have no problems whatsoever keeping up with most of the big boys. I did initially have some coolant loss and overheating problems that were cured with the help of Skip Haney's products.

Dicky · 02-13-2013, 06:14 PM

Skip did my water pumps, distributor and coil. I also have the valve to keep water in my radiator.

ford38v8 · 02-13-2013, 07:04 PM

Dicky, where are you losing water from?
At the radiator fill cap?
At the Skip's pressure cap?
At the head nuts?

Also, with the radiator fill cap off and the engiine running, do you see bubbles or an oily surface on the water?

What does your oil look like? Is it clean, or dark, or does it appear like milky baby s##t?

Dicky · 02-14-2013, 01:46 PM

Water comes out the overflow. I know this because I put a gallon juge under the over flow and drove it. I also installed an overflow tank. The last time I looked there were no bubles in the water with the radiator cap off. The oil is fairly clean because I have not driven it much since it overheats regularly. I have not looked since September.

Dicky · 02-17-2013, 03:28 PM

Took my heads off this morning. 10 studs came out with the bolts attached to them. Looked at the cylinders and .060 is marked on the ones I looked at. Also one of the valves was a light tan while the others looked good with no discoloration at all(looked like new valves). I will take my heads to be looked at next week. Will let you know how they are.

02-11-2013, 05:34 PM	#1
Dicky Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clay Alabama Posts: 24	Engine swap Well I have finely made the decision to put another engine in my 1935 Ford. I have been dealing with it overheating for the last 8 years. I have done everything to this motor (thanks for everyones help over the years). I need to know which flathead engines would interchange with my 1936 LB engine. If I remember right, the 1937 & 1938 would be an easy swap. I would like to put a stronger 59AB engine in it. Since I am starting from scratch I am open to any flathead. I am open for suggestions. Dicky [email protected]

02-11-2013, 06:40 PM	#2
PeterC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Connecticut Posts: 855	Re: Engine swap Many Ford flathead years will fit - I am happy with the 59 Block I put in my 35 but my motivation was motivaition (more power) - not overheating - not sure what "done everything to this motor" means and assume you have an excellent radiator, hoses, fan and pumps. The 59 block will require excellent cooling system as well so not sure a replacment block is your answer - depends on block condition. Was the current block stripped down and the water jackets fully cleaned?

02-11-2013, 07:11 PM	#3
Dicky Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clay Alabama Posts: 24	Re: Engine swap I recored my radiator, Skip rebuilt my water pumps, engine rebuilt but studs keep coming out ( THere were 15 or so heli coils put in when the engine was rebuilt). Even when the head bolts were tight, my engine ran hot.

02-11-2013, 07:20 PM	#4
NormC Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Flowery Branch, GA Posts: 80	Re: Engine swap I just replaced my 36LB last month with a 46' 59A in a 36' pick up. You can use your intake manifold and exhaust manifold, though your 36LB heads will not work. Your 35' distributor will work as well. The engine mounting hardware and location is the same, no modification required. I used flex upper radiator hoses from the local auto parts store. No changes required for the transmission to be bolted up to the 59A. It was a real easy conversion. Good luck!

02-11-2013, 11:06 PM	#5
46Fordpickup Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Goodman Wi Posts: 7	Re: Engine swap I knew a guy that put a rebuilt LB engine in a 36 roadster and had heating problems with. He pulled it, tore it down completely and tempered the block. End of problem. The first rebuild was also balancd and blueprinted. He spent a ton of money on that engine.

02-12-2013, 12:55 AM	#6
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: Engine swap Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Tempered?

02-12-2013, 02:58 AM	#7
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,645	Re: Engine swap He got mad at it. __________________ Alan

02-12-2013, 11:36 AM	#9
franksford Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rockford Michigan Posts: 190	Re: Engine swap i have emailed you three pictures of how i set up a 59a in my 36. Frank

02-12-2013, 11:44 AM	#10
franksford Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rockford Michigan Posts: 190	Re: Engine swap you email is not working. email or call me. Frank [email protected] (616) 874-1224

02-12-2013, 12:19 PM	#11
Brian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Masterton, New Zealand Posts: 3,834	Re: Engine swap Dicky, One more little detail; when fitting a 37 or later engine into a 35 you'll find a misalignment between lower radiator outlets and block inlets, which precludes using the original straight hoses, this is easily overcome by using 8BA bottom radiator hoses.

02-12-2013, 12:38 PM	#12
Charlie ny BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,019	Re: Engine swap Dicky, Overheating or not your LB motor is worth some decent $$$$ if it's not over .060 plus on the bores. I've run an LB at plus .080 with no problems but then too I've had some that required sleeves at plus .060. Charlie ny

02-12-2013, 06:01 PM	#13
Dicky Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clay Alabama Posts: 24	Re: Engine swap I do not know what the bore is. I will be pulling the heads this weekend and maybe I can tell.

02-13-2013, 12:36 AM	#14
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: Engine swap Dicky, I wouldn't be so quick to dump that little 221cid, 21 stud LB engine. I wouldn't trade the little '35 21 stud 0.030" over bore (babbitt) engine in my Avatar car for a 59 or 8ba engine. This car runs very well and I have no problems whatsoever keeping up with most of the big boys. I did initially have some coolant loss and overheating problems that were cured with the help of Skip Haney's products. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

02-13-2013, 06:14 PM	#15
Dicky Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clay Alabama Posts: 24	Re: Engine swap Skip did my water pumps, distributor and coil. I also have the valve to keep water in my radiator.

02-13-2013, 07:04 PM	#16
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,645	Re: Engine swap Dicky, where are you losing water from? At the radiator fill cap? At the Skip's pressure cap? At the head nuts? Also, with the radiator fill cap off and the engiine running, do you see bubbles or an oily surface on the water? What does your oil look like? Is it clean, or dark, or does it appear like milky baby s##t? __________________ Alan

02-14-2013, 01:46 PM	#17
Dicky Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clay Alabama Posts: 24	Re: Engine swap Water comes out the overflow. I know this because I put a gallon juge under the over flow and drove it. I also installed an overflow tank. The last time I looked there were no bubles in the water with the radiator cap off. The oil is fairly clean because I have not driven it much since it overheats regularly. I have not looked since September.

02-17-2013, 03:28 PM	#18
Dicky Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clay Alabama Posts: 24	Re: Engine swap Took my heads off this morning. 10 studs came out with the bolts attached to them. Looked at the cylinders and .060 is marked on the ones I looked at. Also one of the valves was a light tan while the others looked good with no discoloration at all(looked like new valves). I will take my heads to be looked at next week. Will let you know how they are.