Remedy for crankshaft end play

[mcgarrett]

My crank has more end play than it should and is causing a slight knocking sound. I discovered the excess play when I removed the rear main bearing cap to correct an oil leak. I would like to get some input from anyone who might have used a product like this rear main thrust seal to make the repair:

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8768&cat=41685

How well did it work and is it worth using? Since I have to dismantle the engine anyway to install it, am I better off just having the Babbitt redone?

[old ugly]

if the bearings are worn out then do the babbitt.
but if all the bearings are good except for the rear thrust face on that rear main and you have just the problem with the crankshaft traveling , end play, too far ahead then that brass thrust plate will work.

i had an issue where my crank would move forward and the ring gear would contact the bell housing, this created a knock that sounded like the rods were coming out of it.
i used one of those thrust/seals from snyders and had really good success, its still in there.

mine was not an exact plug and play. the top surfaces needed to be leveled with the block with a file.
the crank main journal rubbed on the flange and would not drop rite down into the bearing so i had to remove some brass from the flange to get the clearance.

yes i would use it again.

you will hear this is used as a bandade and maybe so but it i am sure it will last for years with no issues.

i did a post on it a while back will see if i can find it

[old ugly]

there is a photo in hear.
the tread was about an oil leak but the problem was not the rear seal and it has been long since remedied.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302623

[old ugly]

one more thing
if you are just doing the rear seal the crank has to be removed but the head can stay on , the pistons can stay in, the cam and all the valves can stay in.

if you do babbitt it all has to come apart.

[J Franklin]

Do a search, as I remember a few years back there was a detailed report with many photos showing the scope of the job required. I have an engine on the bench that will have one installed in the future.

[mcgarrett]

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Guys,
Thanks so much for the honest input. You sold me - I'll definitely be installing one. I'm pretty sure that's the solution I'm looking for.

[chrs1961815]

I just had to do this. It isn't very hard you just have to be careful and take your time. Make sure you evenly take off material on the thrust. I carefully did it on the beltsander but I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very experienced with it.

[TMarsh]

While we are on the subject of crankshaft end play, mine can be measured with a ruler.
The car runs great, 50 all day long, and does not leak enough oil to amount to anything.
Stays in my garage and is a daily driver. No excessive leak. My question is, should I just keep driving it and not worry so much about end play or worry myself silly?

[chrs1961815]

Normally I would say leave it but I have heard reports of crankshaft breaking with excessive endplay. The crank can only take being slammed so many times.

[Synchro909]

I've seen this problem rectified by taking out the bearing cap with the Babbit thrust face on it and building it up by "dabbling" more metal onto it with a soldering iron, then cutting it back. I saw the width of the cap measured along with the end play. Simple arithmetic gave a figure for what the length of the cap should be for the correct end play. There was no more dismantling than taking out the main bearing cap.

[mcgarrett]

Synchro909,
Interesting idea; that's an approach I hadn't even considered, but it sounds like it could work if done carefully and with good preparation. In fact, I think I might give it a try before opting for engine removal and using the brass thrust washer/seal. Thanks for sharing.

[J Franklin]

Remember one option is brass a hard metal compared to babbit. If only the cap is done it will only give 1/2 the support.

[mcgarrett]

Synchro909,
Meant to ask, you mentioned "dabbling" more metal onto the bearing surface with soldering iron. What metal...solder? babbitt?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

Synchro909,
Meant to ask, you mentioned "dabbling" more metal onto the bearing surface with soldering iron. What metal...solder? babbitt?

More Babbit. It behaves like solder when you do it.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

More Babbit. It behaves like solder when you do it.

I've seen that done on Model Ts.

[mcgarrett]

Thanks everyone for all the great info on this topic.
Happy motoring!

[hazelhoff]

Me too ! I soldered Babbitt on the thrust side of the cap only en then cut it/sand it making a special lathe out of 1” PVC pipe !

[mcgarrett]

hazelhoff,
Are you pleased with the results of adding molten babbitt to the main cap as you described? What kind of torch did you use to melt the babbitt and how did you prepare the existing babbitt surface to accept the new molten metal? Any special technique? The more I hear about this method of repair, the more I'm leaning toward trying it myself.
Appreciate your feedback.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

hazelhoff,
Are you pleased with the results of adding molten babbitt to the main cap as you described? What kind of torch did you use to melt the babbitt and how did you prepare the existing babbitt surface to accept the new molten metal? Any special technique? The more I hear about this method of repair, the more I'm leaning toward trying it myself.
Appreciate your feedback.

Don't use a torch. You don't want to affect the Babbitt in the bearing. Clean it thoroughly and use a decent sized, old school type copper soldering iron. Temperature is important. Too hot and it will melt too much and it will be difficult to add more. Too cold and the new metal won't blend in with the old well enough. I'd suggest practicing on an old bearing first.

[mcgarrett]

Synchro909,
I can see how technique would be important so as not to disturb the bearing surface the crank spins in. I'll try to do some practicing before going at it.