preferred 2 barrel Y-block intake manifold?

[cars2cool]

What is the preferred 2 barrel intake for the mid-50's era Y-block? I am assuming it would have the biggest intake runners under the carb. I am referring to OEM cast iron.

[dmsfrr]

You'll likely want one from '57 or newer.
They use the 'newer' four bolt style carburetors, not the '54/'56 three bolt.
There is more than one model of them, I'm not familiar with the differences.

Here's a list of intake manifold casting numbers: Ford, Truck & Mercury...
http://www.y-block.info/casting/intake.html
.

[cars2cool]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

You'll likely want one from '57 or newer.
They use the 'newer' four bolt style carburetors, not the '54/'56 three bolt.
There is more than one model of them, I'm not familiar with the differences.

Here's a list of casting numbers. Ford, Truck & Mercury...
http://www.y-block.info/casting/intake.html

Thanks for the site info. I'm looking for the preferred 3 bolt design.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by cars2cool

Thanks for the site info. I'm looking for the preferred 3 bolt design.

I'm not going to argue with ya, after all, my '55 Sedan has the original 272, 2-bbl 3-bolt intake with Ford EBU "bugsprayer" carb, and I love it to death, BUT it is load-o-matic with original distributor. Now those work fine as long as you've got a good vacuum can on your dizzy, but if that ever changes, the load-o-matic dizzy vacuum cans are no longer reproduced for the '54/55/56 cars.
Also.....the old "bugsprayer" carbs (Ford EBU, Holley 2100, Holley 2110, EGC etc) are all leakers and so is the Holley1904 single bbl for the 223, I-block 6.
Many people have installed supplemental electric bypass fuel pumps to "prime" the carb if the car has been sitting for a few days or long enough for the gas to drain out of the float bowl. There can be complications with a supplemental electric fuel pump installation.
Some people have eliminated the mechanical fuel pump altogether and run straight electric fuel pump.
I'm not sayin it wont work. It can work and does for many people, but you may want to study on these things further before deciding to stay with the load-o-matic system (3-bolt carb base).
There's tons of info in the archives on this site about electric fuel pump installations.
Or, you can do what I do. If my car sits for three days, I don't even try to start the engine without first popping the oil bath air-cleaner off the carb and using a tuna can (with a spout bent into the side) about 1/4 full of gas and dumping it down the air-vent tube that goes into the float bowl. That gives the carb enough gas to start and run the engine long enough for the mechanical fuel pump to start filling the float bowl on it's own. And the engine always starts right up.

[scicala]

Originally Posted by cars2cool

Thanks for the site info. I'm looking for the preferred 3 bolt design.

The highest air flow 3 bolt Holley/Ford carb is the '56 for the 272 engine.
It has the 1 1/16" venturi's like the '55 carb, but is also has larger throttle bores in the base.

Sal

[Daves55Sedan]

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Originally Posted by scicala

The highest air flow 3 bolt Holley/Ford carb is the '56 for the 272 engine.
It has the 1 1/16" venturi's like the '55 carb, but is also has larger throttle bores in the base. Sal

That's correct. Those are Holley 2110 or ECG carb and they have automatic choke. That was the last year for the 3-bolt "bugsprayer" carb and last year for load-o-matic system.

[cars2cool]

Originally Posted by scicala

The highest air flow 3 bolt Holley/Ford carb is the '56 for the 272 engine.
It has the 1 1/16" venturi's like the '55 carb, but is also has larger throttle bores in the base.

Sal

So I should be looking for ECG code intake manifold and carburetor? Does the distributor use the same 3 letter code?

[scicala]

Originally Posted by cars2cool

So I should be looking for ECG code intake manifold and carburetor? Does the distributor use the same 3 letter code?

The '55 and '56 intake manifolds for 3 bolt two barrel carbs shold both have ECG-9424 casting numbers followed by an A, B or F. The only difference I'm aware of is the '56 intake having a hole for the choke warm air tube, since '56 switched to an automatic choke.
The '55 272 two barrel single diaphragm distributor should say on the tag FDJ-12127-C. The '56 272 single diaphragm distributor shoud say FDS-12127-A. Either is good.

'55 carb will say ECG5 on the side of the bowl. '56 will also say ECG or ECG6 and will have an automatic choke on the top cover.

Sal

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cars2cool

Thanks for the site info. I'm looking for the preferred 3 bolt design.

The '56 2bbl intake would likely be the most improved of the older 3 bolt versions.

The '57+ intake manifolds with a 4 bolt carburetor flange were built with improved runners and have better air flow characteristics... for the slightly higher horsepower engines available then.

Fyi, the '56 and older carburetors are vacuum matched to less desirable Loadomatic distributors for their ignition timing. They aren't the best option.
.

[Daves55Sedan]

The 54/55/56 2-bbl intake manifolds are each different, but will accept a variety of "bugsprayer" type carbs of the era (Ford EBU, Holley 2100, Holley 2110, ECG, etc) as the 3-bolt pattern on each is identical. These are all load-o-matic intake manifolds and must be used with original distributor and load-o-matic style carb as listed above.
The '54 car intake will not fit on an engine with 272, 292 heads. The 1956 intake manifold is the only one that has provision for automatic choke.
The 1957 and later intake manifolds are for use with distributors with mechanical advance and matching carburator.

[Gene F]

Cars2Cool...May I ask why you are inquiring?

[cars2cool]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Cars2Cool...May I ask why you are inquiring?

Thanks Gene for asking. I'm gathering parts for a '56 F100 rebuild and want to install either a 292 or a 312 Y-block mated to a C-4 automatic. I would like to be able to maintain Interstate speeds and let the wife drive it too. She can't drive a manual transmission but she can change a flat tire! I currently have 2 mid-50's F100's that are done back to as authentic as I can afford, I am a Fordaholic. I am aware that there a different size holes in the base of the 3 bolt carburetors and that ties in with CFM's. I have been looking at the various used intakes that are being offered for sale on the internet, and I can't tell with any certainty which ones have the larger ports to match the larger carbs. I know there is a rear end gear ratio change in my future as well, as both of my current pickups have the original 3.92 Dana 44's. They work great for in town speeds, but I get this sick feeling in my gut when I wind them up past 55 or 60 mph. The '55 has the original 239 V8 with the original Ford-o-matic and the '56 has the original 223 inline 6 with the 3 speed transmission. I'm not into racing the old stuff but I do want them to run and drive with reliability. And I prefer a manual choke like I already have in my pickups.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cars2cool

... I'm gathering parts for a '56 F100 rebuild and want to install either a 292 or a 312 Y-block ...

While you're pondering all your other choices, something else to keep in the back of your mind...
The Fuel & Temp gauges in a '56 are originally one-year-only parts. The '56 Temp sensor is a larger size than the '57+ versions. You may need to change the Temp sensor bushing in the head to the larger thread size (3/8 NPT) or tap & re-thread the bushing if you use '57+ heads.

The '56 gauges & sensors are spec'd to work on a full 12 volts. '57+ uses a small dash mounted voltage regulator just for the gauges (approx 7v). They won't work correctly mixed together.

[scicala]

The '55 and '56 three bolt manifolds should be the same as far as port size. Only difference I can think of is the '56 manifold has a provision for at warm air tube for automatic choke carbs.
The carburetor determines whether you need a loadomatic distributor, and not the intake manifold.

Sal

[mercman from oz]

Look for the 'newer' ones to suit the four bolt style carburettors

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by scicala

The carburetor determines whether you need a loadomatic distributor, and not the intake manifold. Sal

True, but since there's no such thing as a 3-bolt "bugsprayer" carb suitable for use with mechanical advance, you might as well just say the 3-bolt intake manifolds are load-o-matic. Or maybe you wouldn't. But I do.
Technically, though, you are correct.

[KULTULZ]

The 56 truck in one of those has a 302, and it probably has side motor mounts added. They may have something in the kit that adds those back for the trucks.

I never understood that MICKEY MOUSE setup on either the F-SERIES or especially the BIRD. Holding down an F-CODE with ski poles ain't too smart.

Any-who, the 56 F100 swap shown has a base 302 and an engine mount conversion kit installed if you look closely. The author stated that there was very little power with the 302 so most likely a 239 2V (especially LOAD-O-MATIC) ain't gonna cut it on the highway.

This is one of those projects that keeps snow balling, especially if not hawked out and strategized properly.

Wait and see what the OP says ...

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

True, but since there's no such thing as a 3-bolt "bugsprayer" carb suitable for use with mechanical advance, you might as well just say the 3-bolt intake manifolds are load-o-matic. Or maybe you wouldn't. But I do.

Technically, though, you are correct.

How to convert LOM 2V CARB to DUAL ADV DIST -

https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2010/...-distributors/

Now the question is what 239 he has in the truck, a big cam or small cam (DIST DRIVE).

[scicala]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

True, but since there's no such thing as a 3-bolt "bugsprayer" carb suitable for use with mechanical advance, you might as well just say the 3-bolt intake manifolds are load-o-matic. Or maybe you wouldn't. But I do.
Technically, though, you are correct.

I agree. We're both correct. Two ways to look at it.

Sal

[fordor41]

will a c-4 bolt up to a 292/312?