An argument FOR thermostats. ..

[Ralph Moore]

Driving to work this morning, my AV8 with 52 Merc motor , with early heads, and no t- stats, was running poorly, I almost turned around and took it home, but it smoothed out some and ran ok. But the whole trip, about 15 miles, the top temp was 130 degrees.
The outside air temp this morning was about 45 degrees.
I guess I'll be putting some in before fall gets here!

[Bluebell]

Personally i would never go without them.

[WestCoast]

if your engine isn't running near 180 degrees your engine is not completely burning the fuel charge, carboning up your rings, valve faces and stems, along with the carbon building on the top of the pistons, but the worst thing is the sludge forming in the pan and engine because the oil doesn't get hot enough to burn off the contaminates

[Talkwrench]

They are in there for a reason..

[Binx]

Originally Posted by WestCoast

if your engine isn't running near 180 degrees your engine is not completely burning the fuel charge, carboning up your rings, valve faces and stems, along with the carbon building on the top of the pistons, but the worst thing is the sludge forming in the pan and engine because the oil doesn't get hot enough to burn off the contaminates

What he said X 10000


Lonnie

[flathead 53]

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I agree they are there for a reason, I bought two NOS dole thermostats on e bay 170 deg ,installed in my 40 deluxe ,the car runs a lot better with them. temp gauge shows about 175-180 deg on a 90 deg day.

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by Bluebell

Personally i would never go without them.

Me neither .........

[flathead48]

So what is the best thermostat for a 59AB stock engine? Thanks

[Ol' Ron]

I think they should run even hotter, I recommend 180 deg stats and the engine should run between 180 to200 for best power and economy. Especiall those with the forged pistons, this will tighten them up a bit.

[Kahuna]

"So what is the best thermostat for a 59AB stock engine? Thanks"

I like and use the NAPA THM111 thermostat. It's a high flow 170 degree used in a Subaru

[AnthonyG]

Hi Ralph, as indicated there are lots of arguments about t-stats in a flatty. Everyone should know that overheating in Ford V8 flattys since the beginning. Having said that I have gone with and without. It does seem as though even in the hot weather my 8BA runs better / doesn't overheat runs better with the t-stats in. I deduce from many threads on the subject that is because in the hotter weather if you don't have stats the water runs through the engine too fast not giving in engine time to absorb the heat and expel it at the radiator. So much for why the stats work better in summer. I run 160's and in summer the engine runs at 180 to 200 ( as Ole Ron says that's optimum for performance. In the winter and fall with temps more like yours 45 to 50F it ran at 160 with and less than that without. If your cruises are typically at or below 50f for a significant length of time reunning at 130f as you indicate then as has been said your not getting the most out of your engine and are probable building carbon and fouling your plugs. Go with 180 stats and check your plugs. As you probably know you can use MMM oil treatment poured slowly through the carb ( trickle it ) at a fast idle and clean out the carbon already built up. Lots of smoke when you do and that's normal. Some think this is an old wives tail but I have done on many older engines and when I finally got around to pulling the heads for what ever the tops of the pistons and cylinder heads were amazingly clean for older engines with 100K plus miles. Sea foam auto additive will do the same. Instructions on use for same http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how...right-way.html

Here's more info on it http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-SF-16...ywords=seafoam
Good luck!!

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

"So what is the best thermostat for a 59AB stock engine? Thanks"

I like and use the NAPA THM111 thermostat. It's a high flow 170 degree used in a Subaru

No question but that one is the best.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

No question but that one is the best.

Napa THM-111 is not a high flow thermostat. Measure the opening in the top, it restricts the flow. G.M.

[WestCoast]

there is a little misunderstanding about thermostats, they really don't make your engine run hotter, if your engine runs at 180 or 190 with 160 degree thermostats it will run 180 or 190 with 180 degree thermostats, all the thermostat does is stop water circulation until the water temp reaches 180, then it opens and lets the water get thru the radiator to be cooled, if you have a quality high flow thermostat the engine wont over heat, it will just get to the thermostats designed temp before letting the water flow and keep the engine temp at the best operating temp

[Binx]

Originally Posted by flathead48

So what is the best thermostat for a 59AB stock engine? Thanks

Frank Oddo's book mentions using '84 Nissan 300ZX (VG 30 engine) t-stats. With or without turbo are same part # so I guess that's another option.

Lonnie

[G.M.]

Lonnie anyone can write posts, books and articles in magazines about thermostats or other fixes. How about washers with 5/8" holes in the upper water outlet, drill holes in the impellers or remove every other impeller and a lot more "old wives tales. The people that wrote them no doubt think or believes these cures worked. It has been proven in the last 15 years that more coolant flowing through the engine provides better cooling. Any thermostat may work under some conditions like living in Northern parts of the country, not driving the car for long distances on 85 plus days and not driving in heavy traffic. The washer in the hose fix was the largest "fix" that went on for years. The hoses have a 1 3/4" ID that allows a full flow of coolant to circulate though both sides of the engine, any large reduction of flow cause the engine temperatures to rise. There is also the problem of the radiator tubes being a restriction. The coolant must be forced through the tubes or it will back up in the top tank and run out the over flow on early cars without a pressure cap. This causes the coolant to become low and the engine runs hotter. Most modern thermostats have about a 7/8 ID opening restricting the flow, the only stats I know of that have larger openings that are less restrictive are the ones that Robertshaw made is the 330 series, 330-160 and 330-180. Myself, friends and Bob Shewman has well over a 1,000 old Fords in hot weather using these with engines running in the 180 range in 90 plus temperatures. True results are produced in the deep South where it is 85 or higher most of the year. G.M.

[V8COOPMAN]

Jeez.......Ralph only mentions the nature and importance of running T-stats to heat-up an engine in a colder environment........he clearly said it was 45 degrees F. ambient and that the engine only reached 130 F. operating temp, yet we're given the full-on, "only Skip's way is the right way" version of keeping a flathead cool.......AGAIN! That repetitive and rhetorical "ad" is starting to get very old. DD

[Ralph Moore]

Yes, I have the opposite problem of most flathead owners, how to make it run hotter.
In running the early heads, do I have to have the type that slips down into the head?
Weren't the original ones made like a tube, instead of the more modern flat style?

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by WestCoast

there is a little misunderstanding about thermostats, they really don't make your engine run hotter, if your engine runs at 180 or 190 with 160 degree thermostats it will run 180 or 190 with 180 degree thermostats, all the thermostat does is stop water circulation until the water temp reaches 180, then it opens and lets the water get thru the radiator to be cooled, if you have a quality high flow thermostat the engine wont over heat, it will just get to the thermostats designed temp before letting the water flow and keep the engine temp at the best operating temp

I would agree with you except to say that if thermostats do not fail shut and believe me they will make your engine run hotter real quick. I ruined a brand new Edelbrock head about 30 years ago when a tested NOS Genuine Ford thermostat decided not to open.Head warped right now,or at least I never could keep it from leaking after that. I have had thermostats in other vehicles fail open usually with something stuck in them but the one that failed shut was the costliest.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Jeez.......Ralph only mentions the nature and importance of running T-stats to heat-up an engine in a colder environment........he clearly said it was 45 degrees F. ambient and that the engine only reached 130 F. operating temp, yet we're given the full-on, "only Skip's way is the right way" version of keeping a flathead cool.......AGAIN! That repetitive and rhetorical "ad" is starting to get very old. DD

Very strange post, I didn't see Skips name mentioned. If you are tired of my posts just pass over them. There are new people on here all the time that have the same heating and fuel problems that has existed for years. I don't like retyping the same thing over
but if it helps just one person that's what this site is all about. G.M.

[Bluebell]

A wax stat usually fails when open. A bellows (alcohol)type is usually shut after it fails. The use of modern(70s, 80s, 90s.) wax type thermostats (as far as I know) was a fairly common practice. The problem was the flange (o.d.) is too big, and they have to be ground / cut down to fit in the top hose. This is a bit of a challenge to do and my understanding is that many of the stats in modern Japanese built cars are physically the same stats with a smaller o.d.
Someone previously in this thread mentioned an 84 Nissan 300zx stat. Since then more Japanese cars use these smaller stats. I would suggest searching for one of these in the right heat range and using that. I hope that helps.

[Cecil/WV]

Amen, GM

[Bluebell]

G.M. you are obviously a very knowledgeable and experienced guy, and you have strong views about the need for high flow stats in flathead v8s.
It seems to me that nearly every other engine out there runs ONE thermostat, Not TWO high flow ones.
It doesn't seem to matter if its a 429 cu. in. or a small truck pulling 6 ton. they manage on ONE standard flow thermostat. There are millions of them around the world including quite a few in hot parts of the planet.
Maybe it's more than just high flow thermostats that is the flaw in Henry's design?

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Very strange post, I didn't see Skips name mentioned. If you are tired of my posts just pass over them. There are new people on here all the time that have the same heating and fuel problems that has existed for years. I don't like retyping the same thing over
but if it helps just one person that's what this site is all about. G.M.

Excellent response George. There a few on the Barn that consider themselves experts. Most posts are critical, negative and offer no advice to the poster. This guy is at the top of the list. Look back at all the posts on this thread and see if he ever offered help.
John

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Ralph Moore

Yes, I have the opposite problem of most flathead owners, how to make it run hotter.
In running the early heads, do I have to have the type that slips down into the head?
Weren't the original ones made like a tube, instead of the more modern flat style?

I have the the same problem, I put cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter or when it is cold hear, I cover 2/3 of it that way it will warm up to 180. with out it the motor will only heat up to about 110

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by oldford2

Excellent response George. There a few on the Barn that consider themselves experts. Most posts are critical, negative and offer no advice to the poster. This guy is at the top of the list. Look back at all the posts on this thread and see if he ever offered help.
John

I agree fully.

[WestCoast]

I don't always agree with GM, but he is a very smart guy, and the ford flat head has to have two thermostats because it has two water return hoses to the radiator, so why don't you figure out a way to use only one thermostat?, it does no good to control the water going back to the radiator on half the engine. modern cars use one thermostat because they only have one radiator hose to return the water to the radiator, fords flat head had heating problem because the hot exhaust gases were exited thru the block instead of the head like modern cars

[Old Henry]

For anyone interested, here are two controlled tests I performed regarding thermostats:

This one compares the NAPA thermostat referred to with no thermostats: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113979

This one compares what I think is the highest flow thermostat for the 59A engine (the same NAPA stat referred to) with another thermostat that claims to be high flow and has been heavily promoted as such: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143576

One more thing for Ralph Moore or anyone else trying thermostats in their 59A for the first time, the current replacement thermostats tend to get pushed up into the hose by the water pressure below, turn sideways, and quit working. One way to secure them is with a short piece of a single strand of a stranded wire thus:

[Old Henry]

Just in case anyone wants to get the Stant stat for their engine here is some information about that. It is a Stant 14157 available on line many places including Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C822YC or at NAPA part number THM 111, or at O'Reilly that sells the same stat as a Murray 4157, O'Reilly part number 2962.

[Ralph Moore]

Henry, that's what I needed. looks like a way to make a modern T stat work. I was concerned about the things turning in the hoses and being useless.

[Bluebell]

West coast, You have missed my point. The point was that each thermostat is only dealing with 120 Cu.in. 4 cylinder!
Why do they need a "high flow" thermostat in each side, when so many bigger capacity, higher horsepower output engines only need one std flow stat in total?
Maybe it comes back to clean radiators, clean engine water jackets, with the core sand removed from them. Basically if an engine is taken back to its full specifications, I don't believe it needs "high flow" thermostats.
Here is a quote from an Impco service bulletin:
"The build up of rust scale or alkali deposits in the water jacket can severely affect the dissipation of heat. For example, the heat transferability of a 1" piece of cast iron with a 1/16" layer of mineral deposit, is equal to the heat transferability of a 4 1/4" piece of clean cast iron. Consequently even slight contamination can inhibit or prevent the transfer of heat from the combustion chamber to the coolant"
Have a look at Old Henry's photo and you can see the example. Ask your self, "was the introduction of "high flow" thermostats the answer here?

I DO agree that if short cuts are the option of choice and "good practice" is not fully dealt with, then, high flow water pumps and high flow thermostats may help.
All just my opinion. Cheers.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Bluebell

G.M. you are obviously a very knowledgeable and experienced guy, and you have strong views about the need for high flow stats in flathead v8s.
It seems to me that nearly every other engine out there runs ONE thermostat, Not TWO high flow ones.
It doesn't seem to matter if its a 429 cu. in. or a small truck pulling 6 ton. they manage on ONE standard flow thermostat. There are millions of them around the world including quite a few in hot parts of the planet.
Maybe it's more than just high flow thermostats that is the flaw in Henry's design?

The problem with the old Fords is the radiator. The amount of tubes, the length of the tubes and some surface dirt in the tubes makes a big restriction of the flow. With a pressure cap MORE coolant is FORCED thought the tubes, without a pressure cap coolant backs up in the top tank and out the over flow tube resulting in low coolant in the system.
More coolant in the system, more coolant flowing through it and more air moving through the radiator fins equal optimum cooling. Any improvement in anyone of these helps. G.M.

[WestCoast]

Bluebell, I guess I did miss your point, but this is a v/8 forum and he was discussing his v/8 motor, thus my remark about two thermostats

[donald1950]

preferably, he should have said "G. M.s way is the only way".....

[Dave D]

With a pressure cap MORE coolant is FORCED thought the tubes, without a pressure cap coolant backs up in the top tank and out the over flow tube resulting in low coolant in the system.

Ahh...no, with a pressure cap the temperature can go higher before it reaches it's boiling point, once water reaches it's boiling point the STEAM pressure overrides the cap.... or the radiator fails.

You have to ask yourself why does EVERY internal combustion engine manufacturer in the world put a thermostat in? Anyone who thinks an engine runs better without one is kidding themselves.

[Bluebell]

Hi Dave, I totally agree with your last point, however I'd like to point out the subtle but important point that it is not steam pressure, but expanded water that forces the pressure cap to lift.
The whole point of the pressure cap is to raise the boiling point of the water, to allow the engine to operate at a higher temperature.
A 1 pound increase in pressure raises the boiling point of the water in the system by 4 degrees F. (at sea level)
So for example; at sea level pure water boils at 212 degrees F.
Add a 4 lb cap and the boiling point goes up to 226 degrees F.
A 12 lb cap raises the B.P. to 260 degrees F.
An internal combustion engine is more efficient at higher temp, but the last thing you want is to have it boil. That's when the damage is done.

(Not sure that any flathead Fords ran anything higher than a 4 pound system)

[G.M.]

As the water gets hot it increases the pressure in the system. We are not interested in increasing the boiling point, it has nothing to do with these engines. They should NEVER run over 210 so increasing the boiling point has no purpose. Again at 210 there is less than 3 lb pressure in an old Ford with a pressure cap or 3 lb valve. The pressure cap or valve has 2 functions, keep the water from backing up in the top tank which forces the water through the radiator tubes and as a SAFETY VALVE to release the pressure if it gets above 3 or 4 lbs from temperatures above 210 or from a compression leak. It's very simple don't try to make it complicated. G.M.

[MGG]

Originally Posted by Dave D

Ahh...no, with a pressure cap the temperature can go higher before it reaches it's boiling point, once water reaches it's boiling point the STEAM pressure overrides the cap.... or the radiator fails.

You have to ask yourself why does EVERY internal combustion engine manufacturer in the world put a thermostat in? Anyone who thinks an engine runs better without one is kidding themselves.

I agree completely. From what I know about Henry Ford, he was not about to add to the cost of his vehicles by installing useless or unnecessary items.

[ct1932ford]

Always use them!

[4tcoupe]

Just curious, I do not currently have a running v-8 flathead , but has anyone ever tried a comparison test with two different style thermostats, one in each head, take temp. readings with infa red heat gun, before and after thermostats, out of radiator, various points on heads? Swap sides with thermostats and compare. Swapping sides would cancel other variables, internal heat transfer, water pump differences, ambient temps, air flow, etc. Might give interesting results.

[Joe Immler]

Pardon my ignorance but what is a "wax" thermostat? I have never heard the term or, if I have, have long forgotten. (CRS Syndrome)

[Vic Piano]

The question of thermostats is akin to questions about what oil to use or what spark plugs to use, etc. I think that trial and error, in each case, is the answer for the individual vehicle. For example, I run Autolite 216 spark plugs, (after having problems with champion H-10's). I use 20-50 weight oil, and I don't use any thermostats. I live in Tampa, Florida where it is usually hot & humid and all my Flatheads run at between 170 to 190 degrees, depending on the time of year and the driving conditions i.e., highway or stop and go traffic (to clarify, at some of the forever stop lights, the temp will go up to 200+ degrees however, once traffic is moving, it doesn't take long before the temp is back to normal driving range). I do have 'Skips' water pumps on all my Flatheads and his coils on several, along with distributors rebuilt by Skip and 'Bubba'. The bottom line is; you need to test different scenarios in your vehicles, under the kind of driving conditions that you would expect to encounter 90% of the time, before you come up with the best combination for your Flatheads.

[V8COOPMAN]

Wow Vic........WELL SAID! DD

[prpmmp]

Originally Posted by Vic Piano

The question of thermostats is akin to questions about what oil to use or what spark plugs to use, etc. I think that trial and error, in each case, is the answer for the individual vehicle. For example, I run Autolite 216 spark plugs, (after having problems with champion H-10's). I use 20-50 weight oil, and I don't use any thermostats. I live in Tampa, Florida where it is usually hot & humid and all my Flatheads run at between 170 to 190 degrees, depending on the time of year and the driving conditions i.e., highway or stop and go traffic (to clarify, at some of the forever stop lights, the temp will go up to 200+ degrees however, once traffic is moving, it doesn't take long before the temp is back to normal driving range). I do have 'Skips' water pumps on all my Flatheads and his coils on several, along with distributors rebuilt by Skip and 'Bubba'. The bottom line is; you need to test different scenarios in your vehicles, under the kind of driving conditions that you would expect to encounter 90% of the time, before you come up with the best combination for your Flatheads.

I'm having a hard time understanding this,no disrespect but you have a 30 degree swing and admit the temperature rises at a long stop light.With 180 thermostat the temp would stay at that temp no matter what(as long as the cooling system is correct) I have a 8BA,use 5-30 syntec oil,have 180 stats in early heads,its stays at that temp at 90+ or 20 degrees and will idle all day long without heating up past 180. The thermostats control the temperature. Pete

[Kahuna]

Pete
I'd say you have everything just right: A clean block and a clean good radiator.
As you mention, there really should not be a big temperature spread if everything is right.
I think many of us, myself included, have failed in one way or another to be real sure that the block itself is as clean as it could be.

[Vic Piano]

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Originally Posted by prpmmp

I'm having a hard time understanding this,no disrespect but you have a 30 degree swing and admit the temperature rises at a long stop light.With 180 thermostat the temp would stay at that temp no matter what(as long as the cooling system is correct) I have a 8BA,use 5-30 syntec oil,have 180 stats in early heads,its stays at that temp at 90+ or 20 degrees and will idle all day long without heating up past 180. The thermostats control the temperature. Pete

I don't doubt what you said, and that that has been your experience. My experience, is as I stated in my previous post. I have five of the seven Flatheads I own at the moment, on the road, and I drive them as often as I can. I removed the thermostats because they were too restrictive and were causing the engines to run hot. When a car is moving, additional air flow is cooling the water in the radiator. When a car is sitting still, with little or no air moving, except what the fan pulls through it, the water in the radiator will get, and stay, hotter. If the water pumps pull hot water from the radiator into the engine, the engine will run hot. The thermostats theoretically open at a predetermined water temp (160 - 180 degrees) if the water in the engine is hotter, it won't cool down until the released water (having gone through the thermostat) has a chance to enter the upper tank on the radiator, travel down (where the air cools it) and into the lower tank, where the water pumps pull it back into the engine. Unless there is significant cooling of the water in the radiator, the engine will run hot still. I should also mention that all five of my 'on the road' Flatheads have new or refurbished radiators. I'm glad that your Flathead's cooling system works so well using thermostats, mind don't but, I have found a fix, that works in my Flatheads, and I'm happy with it.

[Ross F-1]

I've posted this before, it is a record of a conversation with a Stant thermostat engineer about the operating characteristics of thermostats.

[Ralph Moore]

Good read, so I guess it all boils down to( pun intended) each indvidual engine and how/ where it is used and a dozen other variables.

[WestCoast]

prpmmp, the thermostat does not control cooling, all it does is stop the water from circulating to the radiator till the water in the engine reaches the designed thermo temp, at that temp the water is allowed to flow to the radiator, most engines will run hotter when idling because of reduced water and air flow thru the rad, excessive heat build up can be caused by a bad rad, water pump, and a fan that does not pull enough air thru the rad, when at speed more air is being forced thru the rad, hench the engine runs cooler, if your car runs at lets say 200 degrees, the thermostat has nothing to do with that, it opens at 180 degrees and lets water flow, the cooling is left to the water pump, radiator, fan and a moving car, basically a thermostat is an idiot, it only knows how to do one thing, open at the temp it was designed for

[WestCoast]

joe imbler, the wax thermostat is referring to the medium used to make the thermo work, a wax thermo stat is one using wax to expand at temp and open the thermostat

[prpmmp]

Originally Posted by WestCoast

prpmmp, the thermostat does not control cooling, all it does is stop the water from circulating to the radiator till the water in the engine reaches the designed thermo temp, at that temp the water is allowed to flow to the radiator, most engines will run hotter when idling because of reduced water and air flow thru the rad, excessive heat build up can be caused by a bad rad, water pump, and a fan that does not pull enough air thru the rad, when at speed more air is being forced thru the rad, hench the engine runs cooler, if your car runs at lets say 200 degrees, the thermostat has nothing to do with that, it opens at 180 degrees and lets water flow, the cooling is left to the water pump, radiator, fan and a moving car, basically a thermostat is an idiot, it only knows how to do one thing, open at the temp it was designed for

Read my post again!! Thermostats control the temperature of the engine! If that is incorrect then I must have the only thermostats that do!! If the radiator is cooling at speed and not at idle then there is not enough air with the fan at idle(bigger or more fins on the fan,fan shroud) also the fan needs to direct the air away from the engine not on it(45 degrees)spacers do the trick! Pete

[FlatheadTed]

Just my take .Ford offered several types of Radiators some with a extra row of tubes for hot climates . Henry didn't like the spaghetti look of the hot manafolding above the engine on the v8s he had in the lab while developing his flathead such as the Cadillac .Since he was in a cold climate Henry decided the exhaust exiting through the block would give him a fast warm up plus a better looking engine , In my experiments having thermostats in a warm climate is not as critical on a flat head because of the fast warm up ,adding one can have a negative affect depending on other factors that's already been pointed out .To run a thermostat you should have Ideally the large Radiator offered by Ford for a hot climate ,To improve a marginal cooling system a shroud can be added and hi flow pumps that will also help ,a blocked Radiator will cause a low pressure zone in the block a hi flow pump will over come this to some degree .Also the sealing off of the top tank with a low pressure cap forces water through ,this is a different scenario to running high pressure so the water doesn't boil out .To run a single thermostat you would need a much higher flow pump like modern cars have .I think this is were the problem is a high flow pump will possibly over come the restricted thermostat and give you the results your looking for, but its what works for you .Ted
Quote
Just curious, I do not currently have a running v-8 flathead , but has anyone ever tried a comparison test with two different style thermostats, one in each head, take temp. readings with infa red heat gun, before and after thermostats, out of radiator, various points on heads? Swap sides with thermostats and compare. Swapping sides would cancel other variables, internal heat transfer, water pump differences, ambient temps, air flow, etc. Might give interesting results.
Quote
Ahh...no, with a pressure cap the temperature can go higher before it reaches it's boiling point, once water reaches it's boiling point the STEAM pressure overrides the cap.... or the radiator fails.

You have to ask yourself why does EVERY internal combustion engine manufacturer in the world put a thermostat in? Anyone who thinks an engine runs better without one is kidding themselves.
vvv

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 4tcoupe

Just curious, I do not currently have a running v-8 flathead , but has anyone ever tried a comparison test with two different style thermostats, one in each head, take temp. readings with infa red heat gun, before and after thermostats, out of radiator, various points on heads? Swap sides with thermostats and compare. Swapping sides would cancel other variables, internal heat transfer, water pump differences, ambient temps, air flow, etc. Might give interesting results.

I did such tests here (see Post # 28):

This one compares the NAPA thermostat referred to with no thermostats: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113979

This one compares what I think is the highest flow thermostat for the 59A engine (the same NAPA stat referred to) with another thermostat that claims to be high flow and has been heavily promoted as such: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143576

[4ford]

ok a stupid question on a 1941 59ab how and where do you install thermostats?? will they stay in the hose buy themselves??

[JSeery]

See post #28 for one method. And NO, they will not stay in the hose by themselves.

Edit: corrected per Henry

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 4ford

ok a stupid question on a 1941 59ab how and where do you install thermostats?? will they stay in the hose buy themselves??

Actually, it's post # 28. Use a single strand of stranded wire. Only one hose clamp necessary placed at the top of the neck to be sure and grab the wires. Cheap, easy, effective, and doesn't change the stock appearance of the engine.

[prpmmp]

Originally Posted by 4ford

ok a stupid question on a 1941 59ab how and where do you install thermostats?? will they stay in the hose buy themselves??

Hey!! This is what I did.I have weiand aluminum heads that have a 2 inch outlet.I had to grind out a little of the inside for the thermostat to set inside,then I had to file the top flat where the stat sits.My tubes that go to the radiator are 1 3/4 so I got a hose reducer from NAPA for the 2 inch to 1 3/4. I then put a little silicone on the top of the outlet,put the stat on slide the 2 inch hose on then put a little silicone on the top of the stat and slide the reducer over the stat and inside the 2 inch hose. Then when you put the tube inside the reducer you put a hose clamp on the bottom of the 2 inch around the outlet and another around at the tube, that holds the stat tight against the outlet and no coolent can get past until the stat opens. Hope you can understand my gibberish!! see avator Pete