Phenolic insulator

[hombres ruin]

I agree with flatjack9.. Get rid of the aluminum spacers they don't insulate at all. I had fuel boiling issues and used the phenolic spacers and the boiling stopped.

[Jack E/NJ]

Block off the heat risers if possible. Then you won't need any spacers.

Jack E/NJ

[Ralph Moore]

Yes, I'm not running a hood, plus it doesn't ever really get that hot up here.
We might see 90 on a really hot day.

[HOTRODSURFER]

I use a Cool Carb tehnolgies spacer on my 239 cure my vapor lock !
http://www.coolcarb.com/

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by HOTRODSURFER

I use a Cool Carb tehnolgies spacer on my 239 cure my vapor lock !
http://www.coolcarb.com/

Thought you had a "fuel boiling out of the carb at shutoff" issue?

[30-9]

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Jseery not sure who your question was to but yes.... My car w just aluminum risers is running poorly since I installed them - my elec fuel pump is giving me about 2.5 psi I turned idle up hoping engine would smooth out but still not very good and.... Yes when I shut her down fuel is boiling in carb if I pull throttle back fuel exits and boiling noise stops

I order two phenolic spacers over weekend hope if I add it will resolve my problem

[JSeery]

Hotrodsurfer. There seems to be a lot of switching terms between vapor lock and carbs boiling. To me they are two seperate issues which require different solutions. A mechanical fuel pump moves the fuel by lowing the pressure. This lower pressure + elevated temp can result in vapor lock. The fuel is vaperized.
Carb boiling normally occurs after the engine is shut off and engine heat is transfer into the carb boiling the fuel out. A lot of it is dumped into the intake manifold. This results in a flooded condition and little or no fuel in the carb float bowls. I would not refer to these as vapor lock.

[30-9]

So in your theory my car running poorly has nothing to do with carbs getting too hot prior to shut down? It almost wants to stall - I thought it was linked

[JSeery]

Really have no idea what all is going on with your car. But normally fuel boiling in the carb does not occur with the car moving. If it does I would be concerned about where that much heat is coming from. IMHO some form of insolator between the intake and carb is always a good idea.

[30-9]

As always thanks js - greatly appreciate you thoughts

[JSeery]

It will be interesting to see how it runs with the insolators installed. They have to help some!

[40cpe]

Yes, please let us know how the spacers affect the running/boiling conditions.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by JSeery

...Carb boiling normally occurs after the engine is shut off and engine heat is transfer into the carb boiling the fuel out. A lot of it is dumped into the intake manifold. This results in a flooded condition and little or no fuel in the carb float bowls. I would not refer to these as vapor lock.

This is a condition that to one degree or another has affected most old cars. Pretty much everyone in the old days knew that the starting procedure for a fully warmed up car that had been shut down for a short time was to floor the gas pedal and keep it there while cranking, to overcome the flooded condition from fuel boiling over into the manifold.

[30-9]

That's exactly what I do - pedal to the metal