Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

[Bruce in southern OH]

Drug another Car out of storage (barn) that was parked in 1982, picked up a 1939 Sedan Lincoln Zephyr. Ceiling was starting to fall down and rock wool insulation and pieces of sheet rock had fallen on top of car. All the tires were flat, I took air compressor and aired up. Took four of us to roll car ( very heavy compared to early V8's and model A's ) Pulled up in trailer with winch and home we came, unloaded Saturday evening and had several people came over and inspected old car. Yesterday afternoon I removed plugs and put automatic transmission fluid in all cylinders ( 12 ) and let set until late evening. My son and I went to garage and I placed car in 2nd gear and we rocked car, got the engine to turn over. I also drained oil and put a gallon of diesel in car and will drain out today. Going to remove carb and distributor and clean/inspect/lube. Still have not got trunk open, no key, locksmith maybe today, hope full of 39 silver dollars!!!! Will go for a start later this week.
.

.

.
home in OHIO
.

.
Original heads and have additional intake, several carbs came with car
.

.
Have air filter, fender skirts, extra wheel drum, and coil.
.

[oldford2]

Great Find!!!!!!!

[Fibber Mcgee]

Great find. How much did it set you back?

[mfagan]

Looks like a nice solid car..keep us posted on the start up.

[Admiral]

WOW, what a find! Looks great. Keep us posted on your progress...

[Lawson Cox]

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awesome find. Congratulations.

[cmbrucew]

Good you found it when you did. Not much damage.
Will make a great driver.
Bruce

[Willit Stop]

The next time you go barn shopping,take me with you. Very nice!

[Tim Brown]

Excellent find! I hope you and your son have a great time with this one. Congrats

[mhsprecher]

I hope you can see that we are all green with envy. A Zephyr is a dream find for me. A couple ideally, LOL!

[Samson]

Bruce,
You keep coming up with some very fine cars!!!

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, that is outstanding!!!

[waterboychuck]

Nice find. Would like to see more photos once you wash it.

[FL&WVMIKE]

BRUCE ....................
You didn't stage (fake) that did you ?
Nice find.
Congratulations !
MIKE (mikeburch)

[Bruce in southern OH]

MIKE, no afraid not, still in garage unwashed today, have not cleaned up but will tomorrow and wipe down with some Gibbs oil if I can find a can I had. I need to find some of those old plastic seat covers that were period correct. ( like your grandmaw had on her couch ) I am going to get running first. I did remove the carburetor today and it has the Zephyr symbol on bowl. Also removed the coil and found that one of the carbon tips is missing, do not know if it fell off as I gentle lifted off distributor or it went bad over the years. The distributor caps are stuck in the sides of distributor, now I will have to remove generator and spark plug looms to get everything out together so I can tap with wood to un stick. Then I will have to sand down caps so they will go back together. (old material swells) Need to have carb rebuild ( rubber products ), fuel pump for new fuel, and coil. Need suggestions for all three again, bubba? Henry? who is still out there? I am working now on trying to get plug out of gas tank, looks like I might have to fill with water and drill to remove plug from underneath. Is there a plate in floor of trunk for tank sending unit? Locksmith did not come today, need trunk open! Also, intake gasket, after I take spark plug looms off I am going to take intake off and look at valley and oil up everything before I start. Will look at brake master cylinder soon. thanks Bruce

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, you've got your fun cut out for you. I would suggest the following, for the carb, Charlie NY, for the distributor, Bubba's and for the coil and water pumps, Skip Haney. You should also check out www.LZOC.org, the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club. They have an excellent Vender's list for parts & services related to Lincoln Zephyrs. Good luck on an excellent project. Vic

[Mike B]

Originally Posted by Fibber Mcgee

Great find. How much did it set you back?

That's like asking a lady how much she weighs, or how old she is

[Bolts]

That car looks practically new Bruce! Fabulous.

[Fe26]

Very well done, congratulations

[Fibber Mcgee]

Originally Posted by Mike B

That's like asking a lady how much she weighs, or how old she is

I've done that as well.

[mhsprecher]

There was what looked like a pretty nice Zephyr sold on eBay recently for $16K. Very reasonable, in my uneducated opinion.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Mike B

That's like asking a lady how much she weighs, or how old she is

Amen !
Wayne

[Fibber Mcgee]

What's so taboo about asking what someone paid for something? I'd tell if anyone asked what I paid for mine.I was curious what a Zephyr in that shape goes for. Thanks Mhsprecher.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by Fibber Mcgee

What's so taboo about asking what someone paid for something? I'd tell if anyone asked what I paid for mine.I was curious what a Zephyr in that shape goes for. Thanks Mhsprecher.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------




Here's a link to a '40 thats been advertized
on the HAMB for about 6 weeks.........

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...-sedan.926804/










.

[Fibber Mcgee]

Thanks Lanny. Thats why I asked. I thought a Zephyr would cost more than that. Now days it all about the money or lack there of.

[Vic Piano]

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Hey Fibber, if you want to get a better idea of what Lincoln Zephyr's are selling for, check out www.lzoc.org. Keep in mind that (as with most cars) ForDor Sedans bring the least money. Where Zephyr's are concerned, because they could be considered low production vehicles, even ForDor Sedans will fetch a nice price.

[V8COOPMAN]

NOT mine, but this decent looking, roadworthy '37 Zep has been for sale in Michigan for several months at $23K. Click the link! DD



http://www.antiquecar.com/category/F...hyr-Sedan.html

[raceron1120]

Originally Posted by Fibber Mcgee

I've done that as well.

And lived to tell about it?

Wow that is quite a retrieval. Good to see some of that old iron getting back into circulation.

There was a fella with one around here a year or so ago, he made a few small shows. It was for sale, if memory serves, he was asking $30K for it but I can't remember what year it was, I'm thinking '39. I haven't seen it yet this year.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Any idea where to get key or code to find a trunk key, had lock smith here today and could not pick and turn lock handle. I found that on a 40 Ford coupe the key turns clockwise and the handle counter-clockwise. Took back seat out and found a steel X-brace with card board. There is no way to reach anything if I cut out one space in card board. Let me know if you know of a solution, thanks Bruce

[Mike B]

Bruce, start up a new post...there is at least one FordBarn member who is a locksmith, and may be able to help...he may not read all the threads, but asking specifically for locksmithing...might catch his (or other who know him) eye.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mike B, I will do that, first I PM'ed the 32Phil at Early Ford locks for information.
(Phil, I just drug in a 1939 Lincoln Zephyr Fordor, I have the ignition key which fits the ignition and passenger side door, PROBLEM is I did not get a trunk Key, any information I can get to you that would allow you to make a key to unlock trunk???? thanks Bruce
[email protected])

[copperpenny]

Bruce. you may find the needed key information by calling the Benson Ford Research Center in Dearborn, Michigan at 313-976-6070. They have many prewar Lincoln production record cards and might still have your car on file. The production record card has the key numbers for the ignition and trunk keys plus info on your car the day it was made in 1939. The center will send you a sheet outlining original paint, interior, etc. Cost is I believe $20.00. Well worth the cost. The LZOC website has info on the service also. Click on the "car labeled FAQ" on their masthead. Well worth joining their club also which is for the Lincoln V-12's from 1936 thru 1948. Good luck Zephyring.

[felix37]

Nice find Bruce!

[itsa52]

I just want to see Bruce's little black book and the barn finds he's passing on.. No low ball stuff for him...What a great find.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Flex37 (Jonathan) owner said that in 1982 the 7:00 X 16 Coker tires were new! I will look for the dot number and check, car was in a totally dark stall, no windows. Want to see how they drive in a month or so after I go through engine. ( fuel pump, carb, distributor, water pumps, spark plug wires, coil, gas tank and most important BRAKES )

Next, just this week I installed the 34 wood grain work you did at Honest Charley's. ( had to wait for the new chrome windshield) I have been jumping between work, 39 I brought home Saturday and the 34.

itsa52, have a big list, big black book, need funds, if will advance me some green backs, I will post more cars, thanks

[AnthonyG]

WOW, very cool Bruce, that V12 looks sweet too. Your a lucky man striking gold several times I believe now!! Enjoy and post pic's when she's all pretty and waxed up. Not that it ain't pretty dam nice now.

[dick lyons]

that blue tag is antique Pennsylvania, is it not? and you found it in cal.?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Don't know where California came from, I live in OHIO, picked up in Pennsylvania? Now I did get a PM from ( fordbarn locksmith ) Phil said to remove glove box lock and it should be same as trunk, I will send him information and cut a key for me to try to unlock trunk, also will contact the other leads I received. Tomorrow fuel pump off and take apart and place new parts in pump, also need the flex gas line, lots to do.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Mike B, I will do that, first I PM'ed the 32Phil at Early Ford locks for information.
(Phil, I just drug in a 1939 Lincoln Zephyr Fordor, I have the ignition key which fits the ignition and passenger side door, PROBLEM is I did not get a trunk Key, any information I can get to you that would allow you to make a key to unlock trunk???? thanks Bruce
[email protected])

Edit: duplicate post

[FlatHeadCoupe]

One more possible option. Ford products usually matched the glove box lock to the trunk lock. If your glovebox is in the unlocked position, the lock assembly can be removed and dis-assembled. The key code is stamped on the cylinder. I and others on the Ford Barn can then cut you a key to code. It would very likely work in the trunk handle.
Regards,
FlatHeadCoupe

[dick lyons]

yes, sorry about not seeing ohio. thinking proctervill. ca.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Sent 32Phil my glove box lock number, he is going to cut a key, should work in trumk, found the registration cards in drivers side glove box, same family has owned car sense new, also one tag from Columbia overdrive and 4 coins ( 35 nickel, and four Lincoln head pennies, 40,45, 46,48) Get trunk open and find all the bags of silver coins. I will be in the black!!!

[storyteller]

Rode in a sedan just like this one when I was about 13 years old. My dad was trying it out and I so wanted him to buy it. I think the V-12 scared him out of the deal. Still remember peeking out the back window in that big old Zephyr sixty two years ago like it was yesterday. Good luck with your project.

[Shadetree]

Bruce,
You lucky dog! What a find! Looks like it is in good shape, good enough to drive as is. Congratulations!

Hope you can bring it to Gallipolis. But wait, I haven't seen the `34 yet! Bring'em both!

Bud

[m.e.pouncy]

Bruce you can get some good tips on restoring this car at Steve's Auto Restorations he is doing a 4 door as I write this. I was glad you decided to go with the Big Block Chevy and Auto trans. I would limit the top chop to not more then 3 inches.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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THANKS, that is like being put in jail or holding cell with 10 guys and as you walk away saying, "you should not have molested the little baby", thanks Mabe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

( railroad is calling you )

[Bruce in southern OH]

Replaced oil, installed battery, re-installed the fuel pump ( works fine ) and tested carburetor with gas and sprays gas when throttle is moved. Don P. replaced the points with nos points I had and checked out on his Sun Machine and my Allen machine. Checked the condensers and showed good. I will go down to Dons and we are thinking of using old spark plug wires to start. Caps for distributor will have to be sanded to go back in distributor. Small amount of coil ignition wiring will have to be replaced because insulation is bad. Lots of little things to get done before Blast Off! I did hook up battery yesterday and turned motor with starter, starter worked good. Will have to check out the water and radiator before I go for start. Going to use the little plastic gas tank I have until I get the trunk key to look in trunk for access to top of gas tank through sending unit hole.

[Highboy34]

jGreat find, Bruce.

Looking over the engine picture, there is what appears to be a vacuum line running down over the drivers side cylinder head and also a bowden/push-pull cable running horizontally along the drivers side firewall. They both look like parts of a Columbia two-speed setup. The vacuum line would come off the top of the intake manifold behind the carb and down to the Columbia two-port valve mounted on the frame or on the steering box. The push-pull dashboard knob would pull the lever on the speedo gear changer mounted horizontally on the firewall about where that cable is living now.

Have you looked at the rear axle? Columbia under there?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Highboy34, Yes, the Columbia is under there, I have not touched anything with the Columbia, the hose/tubing does go down to steering box. Is there anything I can do to the controls while I wait on engine parts. Thanks for reply and information

[Bruce in southern OH]

Working past couple of weeks, today got to go to Don P.'s and see his work, he has distributor for V12 working perfect. We also installed the twelve new spark plug wires in looms and installed wires in position in caps. Don P. had to cut two cap gaskets that I was short. The gasket cutter he has is near perfect, have to find one for my future projects. I will install the distributor on car, then coil, new wired looms on engine, generator, fan belt, small about of wiring to coils, and two wires to generator, hook up battery, install carburetor, vacuum lines, install spark plugs and a temporary gas tank!!! If I get everything together I will call Don and go for a start after 30 plus years.
.
Wires from Boos
.

.
Gasket cutter
.

.
Holding finger after letting small amount of Blood out, ouch!!!!!

.
Thanks Don!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Sixseven]

Originally Posted by Lanny

-----------------------------------------------------------------------




Here's a link to a '40 thats been advertized
on the HAMB for about 6 weeks.........

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...-sedan.926804/









.

Just checked out that Zepher and he stripped the engine, front axle and rear brakes. That car went from a nice restore to a parts car. Dummy!

[Vic Piano]

Lookin' good Bruce, hopefully she'll fire right up for you.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic/everyone, got car running and runs very good, NOW THE PROBLEM!! Now I know why the transmission floor pans are removed, the car will not go in gear. I am trying to decide whether to pull rear end and clean up or motor(motor clean). Vic your thread is so long to go through, thought that you and gang had pulled transmission in past. What direction did you go?
.
First start up after a long sleep!
.

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, we did pull the transmission out of the Zephyr, not once but twice (Bad Chinese parts the first rebuild). I would suggest that you pull the rear back to get the transmission out. The transmission has to be removed from the inside of the car so pulling the rear back is (at least it was for us) the easiest way to get the job done. Have fun with it.

[Highboy34]

A couple of Zephyr thoughts: Because the Columbia takes vacuum directly from the intake manifold, be sure the lines are good throughout or it will suck air and give you a leanness problem.

These engines had poor crankcase ventilation and condensation readily built up in engines that were regularly run to less than full hot condition, i.e. short distances on/off, etc. On
my 37, I noticed a little pimple on the outside of the intake riser. I picked at it and found a corrosion hole in the intake runner through from the runner bottom down into the lifter valley in the block. Condensation had completely corroded it away. We cut away the side of the intake riser and patched in material there and on the bottom of the manifold. no problems since. You may wish to check your runners carefully to be sure they are good.

Good luck with your Zephyr project. Beautiful cars.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Be more than happy to do the distributor, send coil to Skip and we can get them done......

[Mike B]

I keep checking in to see if Bruce found out what was in the trunk!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bubbas, thanks, have the distributor taken care of, used NOS points we have picked up over the years and replaced, condensers both tested fine, (set up on Sun and Allen machine and manual fixture by Don P. ) have a 1 nos rotor, but old one was fine. FordBarn always to the rescue. The engine did not turn over five or six times and BURST to LIFE. Ignition, Ignition, Ignition!!! I am boxing up 2nd spare coil and will send to Skip, I have talked to him and got price plus shipping, will use for spare or change out with coil on engine and save for spare.
Mike you are not the only one to ask about trunk, Mabe P. calls about every other day and ask what I am hiding from him, he knows I found Hoffa's body or a couple bags of Philly bank money. ( only a 35 nickel and four Lincoln head pennies ) Phil 32, is making keys but I have not received anything yet, got a PM from him and was told he would try again on Monday to make key. Need a FX314 if anyone has one????? When I open trunk I will video the occasion and post. Making a list now of taking the rear end out of Old Zephyr so I can pull transmission and change/examine the clutch/disc, etc. I will clean up everything while out, free up emergency brake cables. I will have to look up disc size but I think it will be a 9" clutch and disc #7550 in V8 books list 9", but think 7550 number is used for all disc, need a letter or additional number if 11" etc., any info is always appreciated, thanks everyone for the help, BJ

[Bruce in southern OH]

I worked this afternoon on clutch to see if any addition adjustment was present. If I adjusted pedal so that I got max travel ( clutch Arm touching back of bell housing ) the pressure plate throw out bearing was running all the time, still as I did this with car running it would not release. (could not place in gear) Don P. did some research and found lots of threads on AACA and others that talked about long finger pressure plates, and extra thick clutch disc. Without the correct parts you will start out with max rod adjustment and very little wear time and incorrect free pedal travel. This is what the problem is and was for previous owner, explains why the transmission cover was off and why car was parked. I am still trying to contact previous owner for his story. Any info and parts location appreciated, some said that NAA tractor disc and presure plates work, let me know,
info taken by 9 year old post on AACA site:
Re: H-V-12 Clutch plate
Hey JB make sure you have the "LONG ONE" pressure
plate [10 inch] with the adjustable fingers.
Then get a 10 inch clutch disc.they used on pick ups
which have thicker facings.
Also some ford tractor disc's have thicker clutch
facings like the 53 Jubilee.
The Basic pressure plate [Long One semi centrifical]
used on all H 12's are hard to find
but,they were also used on Ford tractors.
One other item you may need to measure your
flywheel thickness and see if has been re surfaced
too many times, this would also cause the length
of your adjusting rod to change.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got some info from Vic,
Hi Bruce,

We replaced the clutch and pressure plate, etc. in the '39 LZ two years ago. The clutch & pressure plate are the same as the ones that go into the '51 F-1 (as I recall) I think I got them from Joblot.

[Terry,OH]

It is possible the clutch plate is stuck to either the pressure plate or the flywheel and not releasing, since the car sat for a long time. There are several threads here about freeing the clutch plate without removing the transmission. On Ford cars all three fingers of the PP have weights that act to exert more force against the clutch when the engine RPM exceeds about 2,000, to minimize any slipping. All three fingers have adjustment screws at the throw out ends of the fingers for adjustment so they all act at the same time. I would GUESS the Lincolns also had the weights and screws. I do not believe tractor PP's have the weights and may be without the adjustment screws.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Terry, I thought the same thing, might take car out in field, place in gear and push start and drive around and see if pulling small grade or loping the car would free it up. (have rocked the car back and forth to try free up ) I do not think that this is the problem because the adjustment leakage is pass the max point now and the transmission floor covers were removed when I got car. I think they had a problem before. The 51 pickup parts would have all the weights, will see if old owner can shed some light, as always thanks for reply, value your thoughts and knowledge.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Worked on brakes yesterday, got all the bleeding screws loose, pumped brake pedal and moved fluid through the lines on a one by one basis. Went back to garage and thought I would press the pedal with foot to see how pedal felt, rock hard pedal, pushed a little harder and pedal did move, got out of car to start another project on car and saw a squirt of fluid on floor, found front brake hose blown out. Have to now order the two front brake hoses, going to take front wheels off today and inspect the brakes and repack the bearings. QUESTION, are all the front brake hoses the same if the number is the same in Ford vendors as in the Lincoln vendors catalogs????? Back to garage, still no movement with Clutch, did talk to previous owner and he cannot remember why his brother had the floor pans out. ALSO, STILL WAITING ON TRUNK KEY!!! NEED IN TRUNK TO SEE WHAT TREASURE IS WAITING, THANKS EVERYONE

[Terry,OH]

Make sure the master cylinder piston can return all the way and the actuating rod (adjustment ) is not prevent it's return. With the brake pedal back to it's stop there has to be a slight bit of clearance between MC piston and rod. Make sure the brake pedal return spring takes the pedal to it's stop.

[cmbrucew]

Bruce
I got the brake hoses for my 41 Ford Deluxe from Napa.
#6100 rear (1)
#7600 front (2)
Possibly same as yours.
Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Spent 1 hour and 15 minutes at NAPA today for nothing, I will return after you gave me this information and ask, thank you, will let you know what I find out.
.
Working on brakes today
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bruce, it takes three of the 7600 NAPA hoses for my car, I had to cut one front passenger side fitting off above the nut, frozen in hose fitting, Question is can I flare the short tubing and install a new 7/16" nut. Let me know what everyone thinks, do not want to replace the old line across engine compartment if you have a solution, thanks
Do you have a good number for the grease seals, what to pack front inside bearing and will have to remove old seals, appreciate the info!!
.
line cut above line nut
.

[V8COOPMAN]

Is that curved piece of tubing copper? NOT trying to stir-up any poo here. That's a weird-looking fitting for a brake line. DD

[Bruce in southern OH]

It is a painted steel 1/4" line with 7/16" brass fitting screwed into a brass hose crimped end. I cut rotted rubber hose off of metal end of hose end so I could get a 6 sided socket on the 5/8" hose side. I have removed the horse shoe clip that secures line to car.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Green Bible????? cmbrucew and countless others have helped me find parts for the Lincoln that are across the counter items and local. Radiator hose 1 3/4" found at NAPA for lower engine and sold by the foot. #7600 brake hoses for front end and swing brake hose in rear of car and the list I am sure will go on. My Question is there a book/computer web site that shows the interchange parts like Green Bible that includes the Lincoln?? Asked Walt about the one he has for sale here on barn and it does not, also best way to get bearings and seals. Went to Applied Technologies with my front 39 "clean" drum to match up drum seals and bearings, you would have thought I brought in a part from outer space. Told they have nothing, then asked on Ford barn and looked on E-bay, one answer on fordbarn quickly and ebay seller had a part number for Lincoln and other Ford cars, just looking for a way to match up Ford parts in supplier catalogs with Lincoln part numbers. Same number on parts like A-7550, B-7550, 18-7550, 48-7550 and so on. Thanks and let me know what you have found,

[Bruce in southern OH]

Purchased a book off ebay: 1938 1939 1940 1941 Ford Lincoln V8 V12 Flathead Mechanical Service Bulletins
I also talked to another man about brake line repair, going to purchase a short section of brake line with flare on it with nut, next bend to fit and connect in a straight section in engine compartment with a compression coupling, this will work for me, thanks

[cmbrucew]

Bruce
Compression fittings are a no-no for brake lines. Reverse flare only for safety reasons.

Bruce

[Chris Nelson]

Regarding the intake gasket, if you can't get it from Best Gasket, you might try Olson Gasket in Port Orchard, Washington. 360-871-1207 They stock all sorts of obsolete gaskets as well as make gaskets.

[copperpenny]

Bruce, you need to call Earle Brown of the LZOC club. Check LZOC website for his phone and copy of his catalog. One of the best for Lincoln mechanical stuff. Almost 40 years in Lincoln mechanical parts. Not too far from you...in Pittsburg. I don't know of any interchange catalog between Lincoln and Ford, Our green bible is the Lincoln Master Parts catalog.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Green Bible????? cmbrucew and countless others have helped me find parts for the Lincoln that are across the counter items and local. Radiator hose 1 3/4" found at NAPA for lower engine and sold by the foot. #7600 brake hoses for front end and swing brake hose in rear of car and the list I am sure will go on. My Question is there a book/computer web site that shows the interchange parts like Green Bible that includes the Lincoln?? Asked Walt about the one he has for sale here on barn and it does not, also best way to get bearings and seals. Went to Applied Technologies with my front 39 "clean" drum to match up drum seals and bearings, you would have thought I brought in a part from outer space. Told they have nothing, then asked on Ford barn and looked on E-bay, one answer on fordbarn quickly and ebay seller had a part number for Lincoln and other Ford cars, just looking for a way to match up Ford parts in supplier catalogs with Lincoln part numbers. Same number on parts like A-7550, B-7550, 18-7550, 48-7550 and so on. Thanks and let me know what you have found,

Hey Bruce, Thats a very nice looking Zephyr you have there. I see it has an accessory center front bumper guard. I also see it has a Hot Air heater but the metal elbow is missing ,do you have it? They are very hard to come byif you dont but one can be made from a piece of exhaust pipe.I read that it has a Columbia Two speed,does the speedometer cable come frome the pass side axle housing at the rear wheel? I dont see a speedometer adapter on the firewall is why I ask. If it comes from the rear wheel its a pretty sure bet it was factory installed. My advise would be not to shift that columbia untill you have time to go through rebuilding it. It has some cork pads inside the synchro clutch and they tend to glue themselves to the inside of the drum . If they are stuck it could rip the sun gear to pieces.There is actually not very much interchange between the Lincoln and Ford. Luckly the front grease seals are same as 35-48 Fords and rear grease seals are same as Ford 38-48 and so are the front wheel bearings,inner and outer same as 28-48 Fords. The 39 Lincoln has the same drag link as 35-40 Ford along with the tie rod ends. The wishbone rubber ball is 39 Mercury and so is the cap. The master cylinder is same as Ford. There are some large rubber isolators,2 in the front crossmember and 2 in the rear crossmember that the suspension mounts to. Check them out for dry rot. If they are bad there is really nothing holding the front and rear suspension in the car except just the weight of the car. Rebuilt ones are available. Im definatly no expert on the 39 Zephyr but I have built two of them and now working on the third one so let me know if I can be of any help.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Great to hear from you Ken, Have Hot Air heater parts to fill a box, several fittings and blower motors, will take photos and post tomorrow. #2 Columbia Two speed, yes it does come from the passenger side axle housing at rear wheel. Ken the speedometer cable was not hooked up on drive shaft, I will look in morning also and take a couple photos and post. Ken, do you think it is safe to drive car using the drive line as a means to free up stuck clutch!? My plan was to fix brakes and then take car out in my hay field and coast start car in gear and drive around with clutch pedal depressed, slow and fast and apply brakes and drive up small grades with clutch pedal down all the time? How would I know if Columbia is in a safe mode position? I will order bearings and seals tomorrow, only reason for bearings/seals is while I am in location I do not want to return, pack bearings and new seals. Have to be very old with CR labels and Ford script bearings? Keep info coming, I will use a vacuum brake pump machine tomorrow to flush lines with new DOT 3 brake fluid. Next leave adjustment screw loose on brakes, install front drums loose and bleed system of air. Move to rear drums and remove, same process, after all 4 are bled I will exercise the brake pedal and see if wheel cylinders operate. So much to do, little at a time. I will also check those rubber bumpers, thanks

[Ken/Alabama]

Bruce ,the columbia is probably in std drive,cable pushed in. Im just saying that I would be a little hesitant to shift it from whatever position its in . When you get the clutch working properly you might try shifting it with the rear of the car sitting on some jackstands. As far as the clutch goes, I have had luck unsticking clutches by driving it with the pedal depressed but like you said,do it in a field where there is no traffic. I have bought many items from Alan Whelihan in MD.. Earle Brown is good for mechanical items. I you plan to rewire I would get it from Narrangansett, Ive rewired 3 Lincolns using their wiring and it fits nice. Im in the process of installing those rubber isolators in my frame,if I get home from work on time tomorrow I will post some pictures of them and where they are.
Here is a photo of a Zephyr my friend bought a couple years back from a long storage.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks, look forward to photos, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken/everyone the speedometer cable runs from the passenger side rear housing, along frame rail, out in fender well for about a foot and into the inside of car and is connected to the back of big speedometer. I thought I saw the cable going to the drive shaft, but it was the emergency brake cable going in that direction. Now what would be missing from the Columbia system? The dash going to floor and transmission pans were removed when I got car. ( parts are with the car ) Several wires and small metal clad cables/wires disconnected on back of speedometer, what would these have gone to??? I did remove the front drum grease seals this evening, will order front and rear drum seals tomorrow, bearings do say Ford B-1201 and seem to be in very good condition, I will repack them and continue to work on brakes.
.
cable from Columbia rear housing
.


.
Ken, is this the front body mount you spoke of????
.

[copperpenny]

Bruce, they are called "frame insulators." Lincoln part number 96H 5044. There are 4 on you car.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks, seem to be in fair shape, not dissolving or brittle, looks like they were not subject to grease or gas over the years.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Ken/everyone the speedometer cable runs from the passenger side rear housing, along frame rail, out in fender well for about a foot and into the inside of car and is connected to the back of big speedometer. I thought I saw the cable going to the drive shaft, but it was the emergency brake cable going in that direction. Now what would be missing from the Columbia system? The dash going to floor and transmission pans were removed when I got car. ( parts are with the car ) Several wires and small metal clad cables/wires disconnected on back of speedometer, what would these have gone to??? I did remove the front drum grease seals this evening, will order front and rear drum seals tomorrow, bearings do say Ford B-1201 and seem to be in very good condition, I will repack them and continue to work on brakes.
.
cable from Columbia rear housing
.


.
Ken, is this the front body mount you spoke of????
.

Bruce, When you say metal clad cables there is a heater cable that is attached to the pass side of the console,post some pics of whats there.. The speedometer cable being from the axle housing tells me its probably factory installed,there is nothing missing if you have the shifter valve on the steering box with the cable that goes inside to the dash. Here is some pics of the frame isolators,if yours look ok then use them but keep in mind if they are bad or have become un vulcanized there aint much holding the suspension in the car.

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, Unlike Ford & Mercury, if an LZ was ordered new in '39 with a Columbia, the unit was installed at the factory. If it was an afterthought, it would have been installed at the dealership. The Columbia I have for our '39 (came out of a Coupe) does not have the speedometer cable attached to the rear axel, it is attached to the transmission, with a "gear kick down" unit mounted to the firewall. As Ken mentioned, there is a rod that attaches the "vacuum switch" (mounted on the steering box) to the clutch peddle assembly, the rod passes through the "belly pan" that shields the clutch and brake peddle assembly. In addition to the cable that (in my car) has a bracket that mounts under the dash to the left of the steering column drop. The cable in my car is split, with one end going to the vacuum switch and the other to the speedometer "kick down" unit on the firewall. My car is a "late production" as was the coupe that the Columbia came out of.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken/everyone, here are photos of the heater parts I have with car. Next I did order the grease seals today, will wait on them and then reassemble drums with bearings packed. I am going to leave lower adjustment star screw loose and test wheel cylinders before adjustment. If wheel cylinders work well I will adjust and try to drive car with stuck clutch, I am hoping it frees up.
.
heater parts that I have, came with car
.

[Mike B]

Hey Bruce, your stuck clutch.

Rotorwrench tipped me off to:

Get the rear up on jack stands
2nd gear start the car in gear.

Get the speed up to 30-ish MPH...foot in Clutch and hit the brakes hard.

Mine freed up the 2nd try.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Mike B. as soon as I get front drums/tires back on I will might try that, I have to remove the rears first and clean up brakes, bleed them and check wheel cylinders, give me some time and I will report back as soon as I have brakes, thanks for another idea, BJ
( have clutch pedal depressed now with a board )

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Ken/everyone, here are photos of the heater parts I have with car. Next I did order the grease seals today, will wait on them and then reassemble drums with bearings packed. I am going to leave lower adjustment star screw loose and test wheel cylinders before adjustment. If wheel cylinders work well I will adjust and try to drive car with stuck clutch, I am hoping it frees up.
.
heater parts that I have, came with car
.

Bruce, The heater blower shown at the bottom of the picture isnt for your car,I dont reconize what it fits but definatly not your Zephyr. The one in the top of the picture and the elbow with the silencer looks correct. The piece of flat curved steel with the large and small hole doesnt belong to the heater at all, it goes on top of the transmission over the shifter tower to serve as a support for the sponge seal that goes between it and the removeable transmission cover. The sponge seal isnt available for the Lincoln but I made one from buying two of the sponge seals for 37-39 Ford car part # 78-7012130 and using them. Included a picture of the metal ring and where it goes.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Working on the rear brake drum removal, drivers side came off easily, passenger side will not move, Have a good hub tool, used a wrench with a cheater. Brakes are released, drum spins freely. I left the drum under pressure from hub tool and build a dam and filled with PB Blaster to soak the axle. I will look on search for drum removal tips!!!
ALSO , need Vin# location, got my title today from previous owner and will have to have vin# verified.
.
Hub puller with PB Plaster
.

[Mike B]

Hey Bruce, I'd put a nut on the stud there so as not to flatten out the threads.

[Ken/Alabama]

The VIN is located on the front crossmember on the drivers side .

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks Ken, good location for number and it matched my title. Today I repaired the passenger side front brake line. Still with brakes bleed the brake pedal would not move, pedal would move if I bleed the wheel cylinders. Pulled front two drums and took brake shoes off and found problem.
.
Wheel cylinder cups rotted
.

.
Cleaned up wheel cylinder
.

.
End view of wheel cylinder
.

.
Will add grease hose to wheel cylinder after installation of bleeder and shove out parts with grease gun, then drive out other parts with a dowel. Will hone the cylinders and order rebuild kit. Want to get some brakes so I can drive car to free up the passenger side rear brake drum ( stuck ) and also get clutch free and working. Next week I hope!!!

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce:
Very nice way you discribe & with pictures of what you are doing.
Now We still want to know what's in the trunk ???? ( with pictures )

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bill, thanks for reminder, I received the key for the glove box about two days ago and 32Phil made me a couple of spares for the ignition. The trunk key he cut from the code I furnished worked great.
.
Opened trunk, had two rags / towels behind the spare tire, pulled the towels off and this is what I Found.
.
Couple carbs, light bulb set, little Gulf bank can, old gauge, and a sealed rebuild can.
.

.
box of ignition parts for unknown use, need a old parts book
.

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lots of hub caps, two Cadillac, Early V8, three SS wheel covers, three early 50 or 60 wheel covers,
.

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old envelope that was torn open
.

.
Loaded my cart with misc. items, small hoses, old radio, back up light, extra rear drum, two NOS head light glass and a chrome trim ring and all the used parts from the V12 motor rebuild. Might not be all small items but close.
.

[Cody_1948]

HOLLY $#!T way tooo cool, Love the car,

[Ken/Alabama]

Hey Bruce, is the jack and tool kit still in the car. ? And does your car have a spring on the spare tire rack??

[Vic Piano]

Ken, my '39 LZ was a mid to late production car and it does not have the spring on the spare tire rack... I have seen them on '39 LZ's, do you know if it was an early production part that was discontinued?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, is there a compartment for the jack and tool kit, if so where???? No, spring that I know of, you just pull the tire and it leans forward toward you, BJ
.

[Ken/Alabama]

I think in the sedans the jack would be under the rear seat. Not all Zephyrs had a spring on the spare tire rack, it's a early,late thing.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, found nothing in car that was a tool kit, not even a jack, couple of old spoon type tire tools like you would expect for removing tires on a model A. Do you have a photo of what was included? Also, I am working on the wheel cylinders, I guess I will go to Boos to order rebuild kits for each cylinder, my QUESTION is have you changed to a double bowl master cylinder or just rebuild the single Bowl existing one??? thanks for information, Bruce
(front wheel cylinders are 1 1/8", rears are smaller )

[Ken/Alabama]

Im staying with the original single bowl master Cyl. They are the same as Ford 39-48 cars.You should be able to buy cups at your local parts house for the cyls. Are your wheel cyls nice and clean and free of pits? If they arent you might consider buying new ones to save headaches down the road. Here are the numbers for them just in case you need them.
RF WC7536
LF WC7537
RR WC7564
LR WC7563
Those are Raybestos numbers.
I dont have a tool kit for my car yet ,but I can get some pictures from my friends car ,he has the tool kit and jack.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, went to O'Rielly's and picked up the rebuild kits for about 3 dollars each, that work well, thanks for advice. Came back and installed and assembled the both front wheel cylinders and put all parts back on one of the drivers side hubs.
Photos of before and after front brake work.
.

.
After rebuild of wheel cylinder
.

.
I think I will go ahead and remove the master cylinder and clean up and replace parts, then only will have to flush lines well to insure I have some brakes. Still have to remove the stuck hub!

[Vic Piano]

Lookin' good Bruce!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Finished the drives side rear wheel Brakes, put hub on and adjusted brakes. Brake lines still disconnected from all wheels, started removing the master cylinder and will get rebuild kit tomorrow after I find out the bore size. Going to take air compressor and blow lines out sense I now am removing the master cylinder.
.
Using up the paint cans I have around the garage, looks like circus came to town!
.

[Tinker]

Nice work

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, everyone, have three wheels now with brakes, rebuilt Master Brake Cylinder today. Going to put tires on car this evening and roll out of garage. I might place car back on one set of jack stands and start in gear and use the one rear brake to see if the clutch will un-stick the clutch?!. Also I am going to move car side to side and see if the rear passenger hub will come loose. MY QUESTION for this evening is: Are there two types of oil required for the Columbia and one for the rear end?? What weight for them??? Thanks

[Ken/Alabama]

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The rear end and columbia takes the same oil. Most but not all Columbia units have separate fill hole. Since the Zephyr has a hypoid type rear , use the fill hole in the rear end. 90 weight is what I use .

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

I might place car back on one set of jack stands and start in gear and use the one rear brake to see if the clutch will un-stick the clutch?!.

The ONE rear brake probably won't accomplish what you're trying to do because of the differential gears. The OTHER (un-braked) wheel will probably continue to spin along with the DRIVESHAFT. The driveshaft is the part that needs to stop suddenly to make this "clutch un-stick" procedure have a chance of working. Instead, maybe try the procedure by applying the well-adjusted parking brake. That way, both drums (and the driveshaft) should stop abruptly. DD

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, everyone, I went to O'Reilly's this morning to pick up 90# gear oil, found a very good transfer pump also. While I was gone I let the rear end and transmission drain. Received a V8/V12 Service Bulletin Book yesterday, its say 2 1/2 pints for transmission and 5 1/2 pints for rear end, worked perfect, emptied the gallon and both full to check plug.
V8, I changed course after oil change this morning, was going to use new transfer pump to empty the old gas from tank. All I got was a very dirty hose. Removing old steel gas line and hope to get tank out, thanks Bruce
.
rebuilt master cylinder
.

.
Transfer pump
.

.
Numbers on the Columbia, any info from numbers, let me know
.


.
Cleanup and found fill information
.

[Ken/Alabama]

Bruce, I would use the larger hole in the banjo housing to refill, notice its a little higher. Lots of Columbias that came on the Zephyr did not have the extra fill hole on the Columbia unit. Thats because the Zephyrs having the Hypoid type rear axle and the Fords did not. Just in case you dont know, to get the tank out you will need to unscrew the filler neck from the tank. It takes a spanner wrench but mine would not budge. I wound up using a pipe wrench and whacked it with a hammer to break it loose. Dont forget to put in a new lead washer when you reinstall the neck.

[Gumpy]

Bruce -I love the look of that V-12, someone is looking over ya on that purchase!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, one QUESTION, do I have to have tank free of gas tank mounting bolts and remove tire to turn the filler tube, I did get the inside splash fender out. Also found the only spanner wrench I have that fits the hole in the collar of fill tube.
.
inside fender splash screw, one of two, looking at top one, who thought that up at factory!
.

.
Fill tube inside fender well before inter fender splash removed
.

[JSeery]

"inside fender splash screw, one of two, looking at top one, who thought that up at factory!"
Now how old is the car and how long did it last? I think they did OK! Not sure what the design goals were, but most likely not more that 20 years tops and probably much less. So, I would say the engineers were way over designing these cars because they have out lived their intended life span several times over LOL.

[Ken/Alabama]

One you get the filler neck removed and the bolts holding the tank to the frame, dont forget to remove the fuel line and the sending unit wire. There is an access cover in the trunk floor to get to the sending unit. Once its all loose you will find its still quite a challenge to get the tank out. You will have to slide the tank to one side as far as it will go and then force the other side past the lip of the frame. Im thinking if you slide it hard to the drivers side it will give a tad more clearance than the other way . You will swear it will not come out but you just have to hit the right combination!

[38Tudor]

Wow!!! Great find! I'm sure you will have fun with that one. What a great story.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, everyone, thanks for info, it was a great day in the Neighborhood as Mr. Rogers would say. Went to friends house/garage this morning and picked up a lathe that I traded for over a year ago, it is now at my garage.
Next went to unload lathe and big rain storm came and I went in garage to check on my gas fill tube pipe. I cut up an old inner tube yesterday and took a hose clamp and made a sock around fill tube and filled with motor oil and PB blaster (did not have any automatic transmission fluid). Removed the inner tube and wiped off oil and tried my spanner wrench, just a little hammer action and it was loose, GREAT!!! Next I found that the fill tube would not come out. Next removed the gas gauge wire, the three bolts from tank ( lost some skin on those ). Next moved tank to passenger side and got fill tube out, double GREAT. Last but not least I found just the right spot and tank came right OUT!! Soaked in sweat and Pennsylvania dirt I went home, now to find a radiator shop to clean the fill tube and tank, I will seal with a POR product, again thanks for info, BJ
.
lathe for my use
.

.
39 tank and fill tube, looks like minor rust and dirt,
.

.
side view of tank and filler tube
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Took gas tank and gas fill tube to local radiator shop, told would be about a week. They are going to place tank in a large tank and soak, remove and place in a hot bath of un know material then dry. After drying they will apply red coating material, will have to cure for 48 hours, told cost is going to be $150.00. POR products alone would be 50 plus dollars, I have found that the material for coating takes about double amount they suggest. I have even cut tanks open, sand blasted and then painted and it uses every bit of product and that is wiping can out bare. Good thing about radiator shop coating inside of tank is that they almost flood tank and that helps coat the back side of the baffles. Will post photos of tank and tube as soon as I receive back.

[mfagan]

Very interesting reading and great explanations!

I know you're having fun!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ordered two electric fuel pumps today, 2 - 4 psi. AIRTEX E8902, 6 volt, Pumps will work pos. or neg. to ground, (just swap the two wires around). I also ordered two 6 volt relays, TE CONNECTIVITY / POTTER & BRUMFIELD - 1432873-1 - AUTOMOTIVE RELAY, SPDT, 6VDC, 40A. Will install one pump and relay on the 39 LZ and install the other on pickup truck. I plan on controlling relay with column on/off switch and fuse the pump. Talked to Don P. this evening for advice and he is running his stock mechanical pump and an additional toggle switch in electric pump circuit to prime car after it sets for awhile, he even has a small light to tell him pump is running. Purchased from Amazon.com, should be here Thursday or Friday.

[BILL WZOREK]

Hey Bruce:
You better recheck that last bolt,
I don't think you got it tight enough. LOL
I love this step by step explnations of what you are doing, it really makes me feel I am there with you,


NO / No Really go check that last bolt ~~~

[Vic Piano]

Hi Bruce,
if you are planning on running the electric fuel pumps as secondary/auxiliary pumps, try to get diaphragms for the stock pumps, that are known to be impervious to the harmful effects of ethanol gas on rubber components in the fuel system. Should the stock pump experience diaphragm failure, the electric pump will put fuel into the crankcase... Not a good thing!

[Bruce in southern OH]

I got that bolt tight Bill, I have heard of having a screw loose before!

VIC, I plan on having the electric pump as primary fuel delivery to carb. Going to by-pass the mechanical pump, I thought the fitting from pump to carb was leaking on old fuel pump, found that the diaphragm/gasket between half's of fuel pump is weeping gas. (screws are tight) Ordered a new firewall flex line and will have to connect flex line to line that used to go to carb. This will work until I have time to build a pass thru system.
Also went to O'Reilly's today and purchased a mechanical water temp gauge, I will install in the drivers side head radiator hose neck, it has a place to install a bulb. I would like to install one on the passenger side also but the hose neck does not have the fitting opening. ( anyone have a extra neck with fitting opening?) That way I could check the engine temp on both sides when I get to drive. Looks like an original electric water temp sending unit on the radiator, I am not using existing wiring until I get a chance to repair wiring.

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, In '39 (most, if not all production LZ's) the temp sending unit was located in the radiator upper tank. not in the left (drivers side) head. As I understand it, they moved the sending unit to the head in '40. My '39 has a '40 V-12 in it, and the radiator has a plug where the original sending unit was located. Are the heads on your car cast iron or aluminum? If they are cast iron, they were retrofit. Its possible that your car was retrofit with '40 heads. Only the drivers side head was equipped to accommodate the single sending unit. The temp sending unit in the head is much better in my opinion.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, first yes to all the above information, I have original aluminum heads, 40 heads on car now. NOW for my QUESTION EVERYONE!!! I removed the rear end from the 39 LZ today, I thought I read that the transmission could be taken out from inside car??? I removed front seat, the question is, do I have to disconnect exhaust and radiator lower hoses, looks like the only way to remove transmission is to jack up rear of motor 4 inches at least to clear cross member, let me know your thoughts.
Things I have tried to do this week, slow cranking motor, took starter off and had cleaned, new cable to solenoid, still not right!
.

.
Removed interior front seat and all part that connect to rear end and torque tube. Still have not got shock links off, mystery to me?
.

.
Removed the rear end, thought I would finish job easily this evening by pulling transmission and finding out why the clutch is stuck, but can not get transmission out like the little early V8's or model A!!!!
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Found one reason that the transmission was low in car, I could not get the universal covers off with out lifting engine up so transmission would raise. Today I took rear transmission support off, it came off in two pieces, the top was broke in half,( metal ring with rubber cover ) has been this way for a long time, it let the transmission/universal cover rest on the cross member. I was hoping that it affected the clutch linkage/stuck clutch problem but does not. Looking for replacement rear transmission support, have located one transmission support from man in California, appreciate his help and information. NOW for the question today, told today that I could unscrew cap around the shift lever and would let me remove shifter without having to take side off transmission. I believe him but is this cap under spring pressure on just a lift off/out, how hard to replace lever in correct position. thanks everyone
.

.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Found one reason that the transmission was low in car, I could not get the universal covers off with out lifting engine up so transmission would raise. Today I took rear transmission support off, it came off in two pieces, the top was broke in half,( metal ring with rubber cover ) has been this way for a long time, it let the transmission/universal cover rest on the cross member. I was hoping that it affected the clutch linkage/stuck clutch problem but does not. Looking for replacement rear transmission support, have located one transmission support from man in California, appreciate his help and information. NOW for the question today, told today that I could unscrew cap around the shift lever and would let me remove shifter without having to take side off transmission. I believe him but is this cap under spring pressure on just a lift off/out, how hard to replace lever in correct position. thanks everyone
.

.

Hey Bruce, The shifter is really easy to remove on your Zephyr.No need to unscrew the cap. Look at the base of the shifter and just above where it meets the transmission you will see it has a pin through it. Remove the cotter pin and drive the pin out and the shift lever will pull up. Its just sitting over a stub shaft. Steele Rubber Products can rebuild your rear mount. Got mine from Alan Whelihan,but no matter where you get one chances are that Steele rebuilt it. They are a little pricey if you havent already found that out.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Thanks Ken, as soon as I read I went to garage and removed pin (no cotter pin, missing ) that was GREAT!! Will get a couple of extra hands later today and Finally Remove Transmission, have it down to bare bones now. Thanks again, need info again pf where to purchase a Lincoln Service Book. (have a V8/V12 Service Bulletins Book and old Chilton's book, not enough detail )
.
This morning at about 7:30 AM EST,
Before pin removal
.

.
After removal, took about 30 seconds
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Here is the answer at 10:00AM, removed transmission at 9:30AM, with the transmission removed worked my way around the pressure plate loosening the 6 bolts, had to rotate engine to get on all the bolts. Got the 6 bolts removed and the pressure plate still stayed in place. With a screw driver underneath so pressure plate would not fall quickly I pried on plate with a small pry bar. It came loose and we removed, it was stuck enough to support all its weight. Material off of clutch disc on pressure plate face. Now to remove the clutch disc from fly wheel, we worked around the disc with straight blade screw driver to get where I could get behind disc a little to pull off. I came off leaving material on fly wheel and removing material from disc. I guess if you leave 500lbs. of pressure on the disc for 32 plus years this is what you get, I still think they had a problem before I got car because floor pans were removed!!!
.
pressure plate
.

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disc removed
.

.

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material left on fly wheel, will take a DA sander and remove
.

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Disc?????
.

[Mac VP]

We've done a few of those 39 LZ trannies. Lots of confusing parts in the shifter housing. While you have everything out, take the time to drain the trans oil and pop the cover off the side. Put the trans in neutral as always before removing the cover. Look for any obvious broken gear teeth, loose/worn synchro rings, etc. if things look dry, crusty, rusty or worse in there, consider going thru the trans. If that isn't your cup of tea, just bring it down to Cincy and we can go thru it for you.

[Terry,OH]

I see the clutch plate is a slightly different size than the pressure plate. You may want to replace with rebuild so they match size.

[Mart]

That thing about clutch size matching doesn't ring true for me, I can't see a problem. If the disc was overhanging the pressure plate, then I would be worried.

I'd clean up the parts and put them back in. (But you all probably knew that).

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mac/Terry/Mart, everyone. Don P. and I opened the side of transmission today and found everything very tight, clean and working well. Mac the rear gear on main shaft was the only one with wear on front edge. We thought that might be low?
Terry the disc is found only in one size material width, outside diameter on both are 10"
Mart, Don and I cleaned up the pressure plate with a DA sander. I borrowed his electric DA sander and cleaned up the flywheel, then wiped off the flywheel with brake cleaner, looks fine now. Will be using all the old parts EXCEPT I need a new 10" X 10 spline 1 3/8" clutch Disc, thicker the better.
.
Transmission photos for Mac's review?
.

.
transmission synchronizers
.

.
Transmission gears
.

.
Clutch pressure plate cleaned up and we adjusted fingers to a uniform height.
.

.
Flywheel cleaned up
.

[Vic Piano]

Lookin' good Bruce, you're startin' to have some fun now...

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, this car is becoming the DEVIL car, I think if I get it running and road worthy I will wait for a cold day in November and hit I-64W to I-75S and see how far south it will roll!!!! If you have a good 10" clutch disc laying around let me know(smile). Going to start cleaning up the rearend/torque tube and find out more about the Columbia while it is out. Waiting on gas tank and fill tube to return, yes I am starting to have FUND. (fun)

[Mac VP]

Bruce....looking at the pic of the open gearset, it appears that the rear-most bronze synchro ring is pretty much close up against second gear. See how there is a gap between the little teeth of the bronze ring where it meets the synchro teeth of the main drive gear. Should be about .050" (about the thickness of a dime visually). When you compare that ring to the one on 2nd gear, you can barely see any gap. The result will be that the ring does not grip the taper on 2nd gear......resulting in a gear "clash" when you shift into second gear. It might work ok on a slow shift.

The question is......do you repair it now while the trans is out, or put if back together and hope it shifts ok when driving it? If you did nothing else I'd recommend replacing the two synchro rings and the various snap rings and thrust washers to freshen it up while it's out and easily accessible.

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, Mac makes a good point, and he may even have a good clutch disk. He has the other transmission parts for the '39 LZ... Ask me how I know...

[Bruce in southern OH]

I still have not gotten the passenger side rear hub loose, have taken and placed tires back on the rear end and placed hub puller on axle under load. Pulled the rear end around with the side by side. Pulled in yard, around side of hill, on bumpy road, have shaken tires side to side with two people, spun tire and hit tire with hammer and still not moved. Removed puller and pulled it also, just parked the rear end at garage and put hub puller back on and tightened up, maybe temp change at night will help. Anyone have any more ideas so I do not ruin threads on axle????
.
pulling up driveway with side by side
.

.
Return to garage
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Picked up the 39 LZ gas tank and fill tube today from radiator shop. They did an excellent job. Man that owns shop said that he really wish he could see in the two hidden areas of tank to see how well the coating did because of the extent of rust. (said one of the worst tanks he had done due to amount of rust) I told him if he wanted I could cut two holes in the two parts of tank that did not have line of sight. Took tank to garage, filled with WATER and cut two holes, one in the top end opposite from fill tube and one in the middle rear behind baffle and sending unit. Used my 2 3/8" conduit hole saw, both slugs removed were coated heavily with the red coating material. We both inspected the interior and found that if not entirely clean and coated, that if particles of rust were still present that they were heavily coated and held in place with the red material. Fill tube was as good as new. Will take tank to Don P. on Monday and install two covers with gaskets and screws to close holes.
.
Gas tank after installation of two holes for inspection, black lines are the interior baffles
.

.
Picture of tank and two slugs removed from tank, both slugs were coated, you can click on photo to enlarge photo to view slugs closer.
.

.
Fill tube coating was also done nicely
.

[Highboy34]

Bruce,

Iv'e had luck with stuck hubs putting the puller on, pulling it good and tight, then licking around the axle/hub tapered tapered portion with a torch. Put some heat around it, let it cool, repeat a few times and between heatings, pull that puller up tight. During one of these cycles, it will come loose. On one Lincoln, I had the puller on for two days, tight. I used heat carefully off and on one day, and did nothing but leave the puller tight on it overnight and through the second day. Didn't touch it the second day, and lunch time I was in another room, heard a BANG, and the stuck hub gave up and had released its grip on the axle.

Good luck,

Steve

[Bill OH]

Remove puller on axle, heat the drum taper to maybe 500 to 600 dregs F, reinstall puller and tighten it up and hit the end of the screw on the puller with a BFH - May take multiple hits with BFH. I have seen heat do wonders. Hope this helps.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Highboy34 and Bill OH, just what I am now doing, heated twice today, think I will look for a rose bud to get more heat quicker, using a cutting tip. I have been lightly taping on the screw of puller, did not what to damage axle. You cannot install a nut on axle and install the puller also, no room. Bill will heat a couple more times and hope for the best, need off very bad, brake work that I could get done, pack bearing, rebuild wheel cylinder, etc. thanks to both of you, BJ

[Bruce in southern OH]

Last couple of days as I found time I have pressure washed, diesel fuel cleaned with brush, Purple power, water and wire brush on drill. I cleanded pounds of solid grease off the rear end of the 39LZ. This is what I came up with, very red. QUESTION for today?? I cleaned up old solid froze grease from fitting in the middle of torque tube, the fitting sticks out about 3/4" and now leaks oil, why is it leaking oil, does the fitting that lubes mid shaft bearing need repaired??? Any info appreciated.
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Before photo of rear end
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After clean up
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Grease Fitting in Torque Tube
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[Ken/Alabama]

On the Lincoln axle there shouldn't be any oil in the torque tube. With the Hypoid style rear the pinion is mounted low in the banjo housing. To keep the oil from running out ,there is a seal at the pinion. To change the seal the torque tube must be removed. Fords don't have this seal because they have a straddle mounted pinion and it's up higher.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken/everyon, will try and get the seal and replace while out, does not sound like a problem to do while out of car and everything is clean. I took the GAS TANK to Don P. and we/he made two metal covers for the inspection holes I cut in tank. Drilled the cover with larger holes than tank and drilled the holes for SS screws correct size for screws. Don cut two cork gaskets, we coated with the red tank sealer and tighten up. Should be there for the next generation! Loading up the rear end this morning to take to Don P's garage to see if he/we can remove that hub, if we must, blasting is now not ruled out!
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Gas tank # 1 hole prep work
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Gas tank #2 hole prep work
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Gas tank metal cover and cork gasket Don made with gasket cutter, red sealer
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Gas tank cover installed
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[BILL WZOREK]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Last couple of days as I found time I have pressure washed, diesel fuel cleaned with brush, Purple power, water and wire brush on drill. I cleanded pounds of solid grease off the rear end of the 39LZ. This is what I came up with, very red. QUESTION for today?? I cleaned up old solid froze grease from fitting in the middle of torque tube, the fitting sticks out about 3/4" and now leaks oil, why is it leaking oil, does the fitting that lubes mid shaft bearing need repaired??? Any info appreciated.
.
Before photo of rear end
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After clean up
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.

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Grease Fitting in Torque Tube
.

Bruce:
If the ball was removed from the grease fitting is it possible it was put there to drain any grease that may get past the pinion seal ?

[RalphG]

Its a little late maybe but here is one method of removing the 39 rear drums. I will need to try it on mine when I get as far as the brakes.
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/axle.htm

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Bill, I took the special grease fitting out today, it is a grease fitting made with a 1" nipple, I thought maybe two piece but it is one. Threaded on other end it treads into the middle carrier bearing housing so bearing gets grease. The oil comes out from around the grease fitting nipple, so if there is a small gap around the nipple(which there is) any oil in tube will leak. With torque tube in car it is higher than oil level in rear end on level ground.
Ralph G., I would now not recommend that, I found out today that the axle will not take any or very little abuse before it bends the threaded portion of axle or collapses the threads. After heating several time in past weeks, soaking in PB Blaster, leaving the hub puller on for days at a time, we/Don P. had to take a cutting wheel to the hub. We placed a 1/2" EMT coupling over threads to protect and cut the hub over the axle key. Place the Hub puller on hub and tighten up, Don took a cold chisel and small hammer and tapped the hub in the cut and it POPPED. Removed hub, have a slight bend in the threaded end of axle now. Also, removed the shocks from the shock links today, they too are tapered. Looking for a good hub, did not touch the drum.
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Don P. relieving the hub with cold chisel
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Removing the drum for first time, light weight puller is all it took once relieved of pressure
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Thought it was a thumbs up moment, Don said it was a TWO thumbs up!!!!!!!
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[Don]

Hated to tear up a good drum,better a drum than an axle, that's the second drum I've seen like that,only way was to cut it off ,just needed the housing for my Columbia.

[RalphG]

I have not been paying attention but I now realize, looking at your photos , your Lincoln has a different bolt pattern than my Ford Deluxe which has the typical old Ford five bolts way out on the outer diameter of the drum. And I thought the hub and drum were one piece on mine. Now I will have to go out to the shed and have a look. Unless somebody can correct me before I do that.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by RalphG

I have not been paying attention but I now realize, looking at your photos , your Lincoln has a different bolt pattern than my Ford Deluxe which has the typical old Ford five bolts way out on the outer diameter of the drum. And I thought the hub and drum were one piece on mine. Now I will have to go out to the shed and have a look. Unless somebody can correct me before I do that.

Lincoln used the wide bolt pattern until mid year 38 then changed to the 5 1/2" bolt pattern. Ford didn't make the change till 40.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Traveled yesterday to Mac VanPelt's with Don P., showed up and he was already working in his shop. Unloaded the 39LZ transmission and we quickly took apart. Inspected several parts for wear that could or would cause a problem once I get the car rolling under its own power. Got a quick class on how all the synchronizers work and engage as you shift and the problem he saw in a Fordbarn photo I posted of the synchronizer. The lack of space between the synchronizer and gear was the give away of synchronizer worn out and not grabbing the gear and bringing up to speed. Inspected all gears, shafts, bearings, case and shifting tower for problems. I will return next week to pick up the transmission. We also got a tour of the shop, tools and his inventory of transmissions, engines and V8 parts. We went to lunch in his 42 Tudor, just a very enjoyable time was had by Don and I. Thanks Mac and Will
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Transmissions neon sign
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Arriving and taking transmission apart
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Synchronizer space correct photo, if you have no space it is worn out.
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worn out
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Main shaft that has wear and is best replaced, he had several that are NOS and also a used shaft that was good.
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I have no information of cars past mechanical repairs, we found two of the short roller bearings that one had wear on rollers and one that looked new, at some time in past someone has replaced limited parts. We/I learned the function of the rear thrust washer, mine was in fairly good shape with the babbit groves still showing, Mac said he has seen some very thin and makes for a lot of travel.
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Not all the photos or information, but all for today , Except Mac's 42 Tudor, on our way to Lunch.
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[Vic Piano]

Lookin' good but, I gotta ask; Mac, what's with those baby white walls...??? LOL

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken/Vic, everyone, I removed the Torque tube today so that I could replace the seal between the banjo and tube (National seal #450082), removed little retainer ring in front of speedo gear, speedo gear, removed torque tube, removed the drive shaft, NOW? I have to remove the double nut holding the pinion gear to get to the seal retainer holder. Question is what would it do to the settings of pinion and what does it re-torque to??? Information appreciated, thanks Bruce
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photo of pinion and the double nut with retainer washer ( looks like the double nut is one piece with one side locked with washer )
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Drive shaft/torque tube had a lot of oil in tube when I removed, oil had only traveled as far as the torque tube middle support bearing
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Does this ever happen to you?, "Man I hate when this happens!!!!"
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Might have found several answers to the question about removing the lock ring and loosening the pinion nuts. Also found out what to set the nuts back to after the new pinion oil seal is installed. Let me know what you think, Bruce
.
1. http://www.oldengine.org/members/sou...xles-M444a.pdf
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2. You need to check the preload on pinion before taking apart. It is in inch
pounds around 20 in #. It should take about 20 in. # to make it turn
.
3. 07-28-2010, 10:13 AM #3
Bruce Lancaster
Senior Member

Default Re: Pinion pre-load...
Pete, here are the numbers I have stacked up:
Pinion bearing torque: A-B type, 35—47 inch pounds, Model 18 1932-4 20-25 inch pounds, 12-16 later rear 1935-48

KRW tool has no spring, but what I did last time was to simply find some big regular socket that was able to crudely snag the splines plus several adaptors to hook the big socket to a tiny inch-pound torque wrench.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Wife got the blue model paint for me from hobby shop today, I painted the numbers/letters on my 39LZ Ohio plates this evening. You have to paint the plate correct color for the year (1939 - white with blue letters ) In Ohio we can register the plates to car as the permanent plate, historical plates are good for 50 years. You pay one time and do not have to go back every year like my car, truck and trailer, also if you look at an OHIO sticker it has the birthday day and month of the owner on small county sticker.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Traveled to Mac VanPelt's Sales LLC and picked up my Zephyr transmission last Wednesday with Don P. We still went over several items about the transmissions, synchronizers, transmission oil and rear end oil he recommends. ( 140#GL4 transmission and 90#GL5 Columbia rear end ). Removal of transmission all started because of stuck clutch and Mac viewing a photo of my transmission on Fordbarn. I installed transmission yesterday evening and I manually rotated the transmission in gear with pedal depressed and the clutch NOW works. BUT, I am telling you something is not correct (not with transmission) it is the linkage and adjustment of clutch, I am still at the limit of adjustment on the clutch. I can only think that several things have changed in 75 years. 1. the fly wheel has been re-surfaced to a point that it has moved way from bell housing. 2. The arm on the transmission shaft in not correct. 3. there is a thick throw out bearing needed on yoke. 4. the throw out bearing yoke is wrong and does not push the bearing far enough. I now have about 1/2 space between fingers and throw out bearing. When I adjust to make pressure plate release the clutch release arm is almost against the bell housing. Any info and information to correct before I install the rear end again appreciated, BJ
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Mac, me, Will
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Labor rates that Don P. thought was helpful
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He did have two Zephyr transmissions in shop that day, very interesting story about the other Zephyr cars history.
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[Terry,OH]

Some photos of the TO bearing, clutch release arm, and any other questionable parts would be good. You want to adjust the linkage so the clutch pedal (while sitting on it's bumper) has about 1" of movement before the TO touches the fingers on the PP. Small movement of the linkage should result in a bit of movement to the TO. So 1/2" of space between the TO and PP fingers does not sound too unreasonable. You may want to check embossed part numbers on some of the parts with a part book. If Mac has a second transmission in the shop maybe he can comparer the two arms by photo and dimensions

[Bruce in southern OH]

Terry, thanks for info, the second Zephyr transmission was a 1940 Continental. Here are some of the photos I took today after I installed the rear end back under car.
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1939 Zephyr transmission
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39 linkage
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Torque tube connected today, going the right direction now, should have driving this week!
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[Vic Piano]

Lookin' good Bruce. I'm looking forward to reading about your first driving experience... I love the way our LZ drives.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Well it finally happened, I finished a legal pad of several pages of small items, got in car and started engine. Now for the big moment, will it go in gear, IT WORKS, it will go in gear with out grinding. NEXT, will the the clutch work so I can pull of lift, ITS ALIVE!!!! Backed up and now for the last item, wonder if brakes work, yes I can stop but they need adjusted. So off the hill I go and behind me is a Contrail of blue smoke. The oil mix of plain oil, MMO and ATF used when I freed motor up is burning out of the front exhaust heat exchanger and also out of the tube type muffler. This is the warmest/hottest that motor/exhaust system has been sense I have had car. Drove up and down my small one lane road which is only a mile long several times. (no mosquitoes out tonight with the fog I laid down ) Every thing seems to work fine, have not had a location yet to try the Columbia, going to BMV ( Bureau of Motor Vehicles ) to get a verification of serial number now that I can load up to travel. Next I need to replace the wiring, thinking of getting a modern wiring harness and placing in old style cloth tube cover with fuse block. When I did stop car and turn engine off the radiator sounded like you had eaten bad food and your stomach was upset, will have to see what happens or if you have an idea why, my mechanical water temp. gauge says temp was about 180 when I turned off. Thanks for all the help along the way, still have a long way to go but trying to get lights working, generator charging in next two weeks so I can drive about 60 miles each way to one of the last cruise-ins of year. (southern OHIO gets cold ) thanks Bruce
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Yes I will put hub caps on before going out in Public!!!
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Might even try the fender skirts ???? do not want one to fall off!

[Ken/Alabama]

That's great news Bruce. The correct wiring harness is available for your car. I have installed them in two 39 Zephyrs and one Continental. They fit really good and look correct.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks Ken, who is the supplier/suppliers for wiring harness, appreciate all the help,

[Ken/Alabama]

http://www.lzoc.org/Sources/naragans.pdf
Narragansett Reproductions has the wiring harness , great folks to deal with

[Bruce in southern OH]

Picked up a couple of books for the 39LZ, not as much info as I was hoping for, like the green bible it shows all model's of Ford that used the same part even if multiple years. Would have been nice to have the LZ info beside the Ford info to share correct parts. Still a lot of fun looking for items that will make car better. I need photos of other 39 transmission and clutch linkage to get idea of correct part or parts my car does not have for clutch adjustment. Also need idea of tire tools that you carry for road side flats, car did not have any jack/tools. Last thing for today, what wiring diagram on the Mac VanPelt site is close to the 39 wiring, thanks Bruce
.

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, I got the wiring harness for the '39 LZ from Rhode Island Wiring. I had some dealings with Narragansett Reproductions recently, unfortunately, my experience was not as good as Ken's... I won't deal with them again.

I have the original bumper jack with the Zephyr, however, I'd only use it for display! Get yourself a good bottle jack for roadside flat fixes.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Vic Piano

Bruce, I got the wiring harness for the '39 LZ from Rhode Island Wiring. I had some dealings with Narragansett Reproductions recently, unfortunately, my experience was not as good as Ken's... I won't deal with them again.

I have the original bumper jack with the Zephyr, however, I'd only use it for display! Get yourself a good bottle jack for roadside flat fixes.

Vic: Didn't you mean to say to get a good "bottle of Jack (Daniels)"

[Vic Piano]

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Lawson, I think the Jack Daniels is used to 'jack up' the driver, not the car... LOL

[Bruce in southern OH]

There is a thread now on V8 section titled "39 clutch issue " take a look at his photos, look at the clutch release arm. I need to see if I can get a number off the clutch release arm. My 39 Lincoln Zephyr I am working on after I replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing I still do not have enough travel to release the clutch properly. (free play ) Clutch is releasing but in future I will not have any adjustment because my clutch release arm will hit back of bell housing and I am now maxed out in adjustment. Any information appreciated, Bruce
( 31Pickumup, release arm is at a greater angle towards rear of car which would help me out as far as adjustment and free play )

[Bruce in southern OH]

Need some photos of a 39LZ clutch set up to see if my transmission and clutch parts are the correct ones.
TODAY I worked on the rear two tail lights, had to drill top of slotted screws off to release rear lens holder. Next I drilled through the little remaining screws, then drilled the holes out and tapped to accept 10-32 screws, did both sides and cleaned up the rear light housing. ( they were very dirt and non-reflective). Next I mounted the light housings and temporarily powered up the rear electrical items, brake master cylinder switch back to lights, running lights and gas tank gauge wire, everything WORKED. Tomorrow will work on installing rear housings in fenders and move to the head lights and horns.
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After lens removal, existing
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Drilled and tapped
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Prime with aluminum paint, will over spray with Chrome paint
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Working lights after 32 years
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[Terry,OH]

I was on the auction site and found this photo note the length of the threads. Is this side LH thread and the other side RH, making the connection piece truly an adjustment turnbuckle? The other side of the adjustment appears like the Fords and they come in slightly different lengths. Too bad the green parts book does not cover the Lincoln, lengths can be found there. Maybe one of the Lincoln guys can chime in with the proper lengths of the various parts of the linkage.

[Vic Piano]

I just finished the rewiring, etc. of the taillights on our '39 LZ. Basically, I did the same things you did however, I painted the housings gloss white (I had painted them silver previously) and the reflective quality of the white is far superior, I should mention that our LZ had been converted to 12 volts.

[BrianCT]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

There is a thread now on V8 section titled "39 clutch issue " take a look at his photos, look at the clutch release arm. I need to see if I can get a number off the clutch release arm. My 39 Lincoln Zephyr I am working on after I replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing I still do not have enough travel to release the clutch properly. (free play ) Clutch is releasing but in future I will not have any adjustment because my clutch release arm will hit back of bell housing and I am now maxed out in adjustment. Any information appreciated, Bruce
( 31Pickumup, release arm is at a greater angle towards rear of car which would help me out as far as adjustment and free play )

OK my head hurts thinking about this . Won't you be shortening the adjustment as the clutch wears and the fingers move out?

[Bruce in southern OH]

I am now thinking about what you are saying. I had a stuck clutch, I adjusted to get maximum release, so I think what you are saying is ....... correct. Still holding my fingers out in front of me as the clutch fingers. Head not hurting yet, thinking back when I took car apart, this is the way I found clutch. I figured that because transmission covers were removed that they had a stuck clutch. Now after we found synchronizers bad we think that the grinding they had was not because the clutch was not releasing but the sychronizers were bad! Sooo, with this re-visited I am still thinking that you are correct, but I still have to get my free play correct, will work on the adjustment first think in morning and report. It now takes all the travel to release, as it wears the fingers will move back as you said???????????????????????????????????

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, took car for the first time on a short drive on main road this evening at 6:30PM to what we have up here called "McThursday", small gathering at McDonald's. Wired up the brake lights, tail lights and the generator. The lights drew everyone's attention, they are very bright and some thought they were L E D, clean, bright and good ground makes them bright. The spray can chrome paint really helped me compared to how I found them.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I am continuing to fix and complete a list of small items on car, today changed tires around to try and get a better ride. Next needed air cleaner on car, old stock air cleaner had pieces falling out, traveled to O'Reilly's and gave them my old element and we matched up with a nice USA made filter. Will continue to working on wiring and list.
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Filter installed, works perfect
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Filter information
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Back of package
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[Bruce in southern OH]

Got 39 LZ out today, started early and replaced several more items on list, looked around and it was 11:30 and still 45 degrees outside. Started car and took to house to get lunch, after lunch I went out and started car planning on driving about 16 miles to friends house in the 39. Started car and went about 25 feet and it sounded like the bottom fell out of motor. I immediately turned of engine, started up again, no sound, gave the car a little gas and the noise started again and stopped, drove car slowly to garage, got out and no sound, moved carb linkage and the noise was fan hitting the front of distributor !!!!!??? Stopped engine and the fan blades were separated from the hub on front of engine, now what was up with this. Looked in my chassis parts book that I purchased but no drawings, felt around and could not find any way to attach the blade back to hub. THEN I thought I will call Ken in Alabama to see if he had a answer for what I had broken. He answered and told me that the fan blade assembly was held to front of balancer with three special bolts on back of balancer assembly. I found them, but did I have to remove the radiator to get off, first a pause and no was answer. ( I dodged a bullet there ) I asked why fan was loose and hitting the distributor, found out from him fan blades were pressed on a rubber sleeve/extrusion and not found any where. So I removed fan and will weld fan blade assembly to the hub for a quick fix. I did drive car to friends without fan after this but it was now 3:00PM, cool out and did not have any problem until I talked to long with engine running and it got hot, cooled down as soon as I drove on highway.
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Looking down on the fan and fan hub
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Fan removed
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Fan assembly removed from fan hub, just a press on and gave up after 75 years!!!
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Car out in yard, photos are best at 20 plus feet
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[B-O-B]

Not really sure (CRS) but I think Vic had a similar problem.

[Vic Piano]

B-O-B, I did have a problem with the fan in our '39 LZ but, I fixed it. Only problem is, I can't remember what I did to correct the problem... I think CRS is contagious...

[Bruce in southern OH]

I think I will drill the hub and fan, then put 4 bolts, lock washers and nuts to hold together, after I change to 12 volt system I will remove the steel fan and install a electric fan. Will place steel fan and hub on bubble balancer after assembly to check to see if it is safe to use.

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce
What about lock tite and no bolts ,
If you remember I had my 600 HP / 1850 ft,lb torque Cummins self distruct
One of the possable reasons could have been cam gear moved on cam shaft changing timing
Now all cam gears are lock tited at time on manufacturing, should hold fan in place.

[Bruce in southern OH]

It would be old rubber to a steel fan hub, it was a friction fit, some way they pressed the fan blade assembly hole over the rubber on back side of hub that does bolt to front of balancer. Have plenty of room to drill and bolt, just want it centered up so that it is true. thanks for suggestion, will look at possibility, Bruce

[BILL WZOREK]

Contact: FLN MAR In Holyoke Ma. 1-413-536-3913
They are a Large Rubber & Plastic Business up here.
When Vic had Problems with his I talked to them & They insured me they had a
Rubber / Steel bonding agent (AKA GLUE ) that would work as if it were Bonded together.
When you call them Just tell the person what you have in some detail & they will get you to the correct person that knows what he is talking about.
GOOD LUCK

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bill, thanks will call tomorrow!!! Today I started on rewiring car. While I was under the dash I removed the speedometer. It has not worked sense I have had car, found cable broke and I am still looking for the ends ( I have an old roll of speedo cable ) the cable is larger than the cable used in Model a and early Ford short cables. If you have a source for ends I would appreciate the info. Back to the speedometer removal. Removed the glass lens today to see why it is locked up ,two small screws on back of speedo and separated gauges from speedo, little liquid wrench oil and it is still locked up, any experience with this issue, thanks Bruce
.
Start of wiring up grade
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Split braided wire loom cover installation, insert pliers and walk along, quick!
.

[Terry,OH]

The Ford speedometers often will seize from non-use. They have a small plug that can be removed and a few drops of 10W oil added as well as around the entry of the shaft into the speedometer. If you can get the shaft to move with a small screwdriver blade then you can use an electric drill in reverse, to turn the shaft and this usually frees up the speedo shaft.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Terry, do you have a photo of the small plug location, I will go take a few photos of the speedo and you take a look, thanks Bruce

[Terry,OH]

IF the plug is there ,you will not miss it, is only about 1/8" Dia. Photo is a 34 Ford but later models also have the plug.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Terry, everyone, photos of the 39 Zephyr Speedometer:
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Cable entrance, back of speedometer
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side view
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Side view with trip reset cable
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side view
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[Terry,OH]

If there was a lube plug it would be in the area of the trip reset cable. Doesn't look like there is one. Is the speedometer entry free to move? If it is frozen this could be the cause of the broken speedometer cable. If it moves by hand you can attach a portion of a speedometer cable and attach it to an electric drill run in reverse. This should test the speedometer and odometer and trip.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Great Day in the Neighborhood!!!!! Today after work and a visit with Don P. and Jim C., I went to garage and wanted to try the 6 volt battery again. I had taken the battery back to Interstate to have them load test. It tested good, I have been having starting problems from the beginning, new battery, new battery cables and starter checked. Today I wanted to check battery again to see if the generator was working so I wanted to start. The problem was I have all the old wire removed even the push button to start because I had used the old wire connected to button to solenoid. So I thought I would use the push button on bottom of solenoid. Reached in car and turned on the switch, hit gas pedal twice, choke and not even two rolls of engine and RUNNING. I had just pressed the cables on battery post, not even bolt tight but twist tight. Let car run until warm near hot, turned off and hit button on bottom of solenoid and instant start. All this time the solenoid controlled by the dash push button has been the problem. Will have to order a new solenoid!!!!! Next I went to the Zephyr speedometer I left soaking in PB oil. Worked in more oil in small hole and used a cut off end piece of speedo cable and tried again to move, moved a little, more oil, moved more and now I can rotate. Will let soak more and try a cordless drill tomorrow. Starting problem solved and speedometer close to being free up!!! Still need a new speedo cable from rear of car to speedometer, 165.5 inches long.
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Solenoid on fire wall problem, will start car fine with manual button, but not with electric push button.
.

.
Speedometer, small piece of speedo-cable stuck in little hole is where I found you could get oil into gears. Thanks Terry for info, I now can move but still very stiff.
.

[Ken/Alabama]

Hey Bruce, Do one other test on the solenoid. Remove the wire from the small post and replace it with a temporary piece of wire then touch the other end to a head bolt or any good ground and see how it spins.

[JSeery]

Noticed in the photo that there are some of the squeeze on splices in the circuit. Those things tend to corrode over time and increase resistance. If it is getting enough power to throw the solenoid guess it shouldn't matter. Was the solenoid throwing with the starter button? I like Ken's idea with the jumper wire for a test.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I will try the ground wire direct to head as Ken asked, yes JSeery the solenoid did pickup with push button in dash. The problem was that the solenoid must have a weak coil or have bad contacts because the motor would either turn slower or I had to "plug" the button several times to get it to connect only to have it slowly turn or all at times turn very fast. I had checked resistance in past but using the small button on bottom of solenoid to close. JSeery the butt splices in photo are the temporary wiring I installed to eliminate original car wiring that was bare at most locations it terminated and 75 years of running spices and black tape repairs in engine compartment, thank you both for replies.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I came home today and oiled speedometer again, tried the little piece of speedo cable, not much happened. Went down to Don P. garage today and he gave me a stub piece of speedocable. I chucked it in cordless drill. Had to hold on to speedo tight and I ran drill slow, watching gears as I turned. The needle did not move. I looked at the worm gear on side and looked in a bind. Backed drill up and forward, more oil on everything. I rocked small gears with my finger. Started drill again and looked to see if needle was moving and now it was, great but real stiff cable drive. Added more oil and sped up drill motor and held there for about 30 secs. This really helped, the speedo is so free now I can move cable with two fingers. I ran until the odometer recorded a mile. I think the little odometer wheels are/were stuck together. Anyway the speedo works and the odometer at least works, cannot set trip meter to zero??? The reason I went to DON P.'s was to fix my broken cooling fan assembly on the 39LZ engine. I have given up on the super adhesive, called the company Bill W. suggested and they wanted $105.00 for the material. Not a guarantee it would work and lots of prep work involved. Next Don and I studied the Ken in Alabama suggestion of placing a couple of nice welds on back of hub, we shot that down. Next we decided to drill hub and fan assembly and tap the hub. This worked out well and I will install tomorrow. I came back from Don's and media blasted the fan assembly and painted. THANKS DON FOR THE HELP!!!!
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Lay out of holes to drill
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Two parts pressed together so we could drill smaller hole to tap, next photo of larger hole for bolt to pass through
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Drilling hub
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Don P. tapping the fan assembley
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Complete, next I media blasted and painted
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Took the 39 LZ to two car cruise ins today, one of them was about 10 miles one way from home. It was the Chesapeake OHIO Fall Fest, very few cars because of rain last night and looked like rain this morning. Lot of people interested in the car because original car and the V12 engine. Returned home at 3:00pm and loaded car up to take to the last Cruise In of year at Wheelersburg, OHIO (Halloween Cruise In ) . Had to trailer because of out of round tires shake car, about 45 miles from home one way. Same thing, everyone interested in car because of old untouched look and V12. Lots of older men said they had pictures/seen photos of V12 engine but never seen in person, everyone loved the interior and could not believe the Zephyr shifter handle on transmission. Had a good time, dark here at about 7:15.
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Don P. beside the LZ
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That is me beside the LZ
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got my new USA made tires Monday, removed old tires and I am painting the rims. Also repaired my speedo cable, I had speedo cable and we salvaged the two ends and placed on new cable. ( saved 125 dollars plus, that is what speedo repair shop listed here on Fordbarn quoted a price plus shipping both ways, ouch!!!) Wanted to travel to Georgia this weekend but car not ready, maybe to the 2015 bash?
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speedo end of cable
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Columbia axle end, 165.5 inches long
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Original Rim strips for the record
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New Lester WW 700 X 16 tires
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[Vic Piano]

Bruce, that's excellent, glad you are having fun with the LZ. Hopefully we'll finish mine up after we get back from the Moonshine Festival, I miss driving her.

[Don]

Guard dog,,,,!,,,,,,,,

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got new tires on car today, took car out for a test run with new tires and speedo hooked up for first time, ran car up to full scale on speedo, (100mph) pulled car over and disconnected the speedo, did not want to damage the speedo by running past the max on face of speedo. Everything is smooth, even placed in forth gear twice, ( neutral and down hill ) smooth and just wind noise, good to have new tires.
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Removing blue dye material off of tires, also blasted and painted rims with single stage black paint. Will add the three silver rings on rims at a later date.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

New tires on car, went to October Fest in Ceredo, WV. almost 200 cars on a very nice day. New tires and painted rims really made the car.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

After 32 years plus (maybe more ) of not shifting the Columbia Two Speed Axle I removed the Two Speed Vacuum Canister from Axle and replaced the gasket. I also found the leather wiper/piston was folded in a small area of piston. Cleaned up the canister inside and out. Wiped leather wiper/piston with motor oil, then MMO and closed back up with new gasket. I added small tie wraps to all new vacuum rubber flex hoses for better seal. ( added MMO to the hoses so it would coat lines and system ) Jacked up the car and placed on jack stands, started car and placed in 3RD gear and it worked, ( little grind on stands ) Took car off stands and out to the highway. Took me a little time to find all the correct positions of knob while driving but this is what I found. After getting to about 40 to 45 MPH pull out overdrive knob and push clutch pedal in and gentle release clutch. (goes in overdrive ) You must leave the overdrive knob out will driving and then when ready to change back to direct drive push knob in and push clutch in and release and it works perfect for me.
.
Friend of mine is going to video next drive, we are in the high 70's today and calling for snow flakes Saturday, running out of good weather and time. I have to say that 39 LZ is now the best road car I have now, Great Ride and speed! Cannot imagine going from a 31 Model A to a 39 Lincoln, like going to the moon in the Day.
.

[Ken/Alabama]

The clutch should be pressed before shifting the Columbia in or out .

[Bruce in southern OH]

I will do that, I need a post-it note stuck to dash, I looked up the operation on a PDF and also several told me that, will make sure that I follow instructions. What a difference it makes in driving and staying up with traffic. Always get waves and people at traffic lights asking what kind of car this is, good day in the Neighborhood!!!!!! Thank you Ken, Don P., Terry, Vic and everyone for getting me this far in the start up of old IRON.

Click on the address below:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...r+end&start=10

Then click on the PDF lower left.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I am posting the location of the thread about the resistor information and comments about the V12 coil and change from 6v to 12 volt so it can be found later, thanks

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154274

[felix37]

The car is coming along! Looking good!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Need to repair several gaps in my steering wheel, if I use filler "JB", how do I match the color? Thanks for info

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, the Zephyr steering wheels were not painted, the color was impregnated in the plastic so, if you use a filler, you'll have to paint the wheel to get a uniform color.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Removed the old front seat cover to see what was under the cover today, original material very dirty but not falling apart yet, going to place a new cover over the material so that I can slide in and out of car. Also removed the rear seats to have seat material placed over them, back seat had a old cover but bottom rear did not have anything over it and was coming apart.
Rain and snow here so I removed the front and rear bumper and took to have polished. Next week over in West Virginia is a National Holiday, first week of Gun deer season and the guy polishing the bumpers will be gone, should have done Dec. 3RD. I now have had everything out of car once, most items twice, all grease removed but someway I always find some on my hands, HAPPY THANKSGIVING AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!
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Front seats with old seat cover removed
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Bumpers removed from car
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[Bruce in southern OH]

Finished the polishing of the rear bumper today, cleaned up the original bolts and re-installed, wonder if there was any cushion or gasket material between the bumper guards and chrome bumper, looks like a bad rub and rust problem if it just friction fits, let me know? Will work on the front bumper tomorrow, cold here. Saturday in the 50's for couple of days and then back to 20/30's again.
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Rear bumper installed again. Painted the bumper irons.
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Cushion for bumper guards????
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[Vic Piano]

The bumper looks super! To my knowledge, there were no pads, rubber or otherwise used between the bumper and bumper guards.

[Don]

Who did the polishing Bruce,they look great compared to what you had????

[Bruce in southern OH]

This is what rear bumper used to look like.
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[RalphG]

Looking great! I can sure see the "family resemblance" to my 39 Deluxe when I look at the photos of your Zephyr. What is the procedure for polishing the bumpers? Mine are not bad but if a little "elbow grease" will improve them I am willing.

[Bruce in southern OH]

JimTN, tell me more about your concerns in the 39 original Columbia Rear End, thank you

[Bruce in southern OH]

Jim, will need info about contacting Johnny in Knoxville, TN., thank you for your information, will plan on removing the Columbia side only for inspection.

Replaced my front and rear seat covers, re installed today. Also, installed the front bumper, need to wait on two end bumper bolts to complete.
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Rear seat
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Front bumper, also painted the bumper arms
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[URL=http://s235.photobucket.com/user/bgj1956/media/1939%20Lincoln%20Zephyr/IMAG2888_zps3f641b89.jpg.html][/URL
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Turtle Chrome Polish and rust remover
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[Tinker]

Nice

[Bruce in southern OH]

Tinker, I want to get the car down to Port Charlotte this winter in Feb or March, now have to inspect the Columbia, do not want to have a Major Problem.

[Tinker]

you'll have it in order im sure.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Tinker,JIMTN,Ken Alabama, I talked to several Columbia people and did call Johnny out in California today. I told Johnny the whole story about car and how well the Columbia worked. Johnny said not to take it out if it was working well, not making noise and if I was not speed shifting. He told me all the things that could go wrong but with practical driving it should be fine. I did check the oil level again today and it was up to the fill plug in the banjo. My car rear axle has two fill plugs and he said to use the highest one to check level.
NEXT, after driving car yesterday I noticed two wet rusty streaks in the engine compartment. Both water pumps are now throwing water from behind the pulley, this is another item I have not had repaired, I will call Skip and ask him time line on the repair of pumps, need to drive car in at least one Christmas parade the 13TH of December.

[Mac VP]

Pretty sure Skip is taking a leave for recuperating from knee surgery. at least he was scheduled for it last week. Told me it would be maybe 30 days before he was back on the job. He may be taking calls....not sure.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks Mac, guess I will wait, just rusty anti-freeze spray, nothing that it hurts, just another leak!!!!! Happy Thanksgiving

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mac, talked to "Skip" today by email, will send pumps to him next week.
Today I installed two side mirrors I ordered, car only had a inside review mirror and lots of BLIND spots. Mirrors came out fine but a little concerned about the passenger side, have rotated all the way around, will work for now. (looks good)
Need to find a 12volt wiper motor to replace the vacuum wiper motor, it was raining here today so no test drive to check out mirrors.
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Drivers side mirror
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Passenger side mirror
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[Bruce in southern OH]

One other thing today, I have found the SS ring for the other fog/driving light, now all I need is the glass lens.
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Cats Eye brand
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Installed the exhaust hot air heater duct in the 39 Lincoln Zephyr today, the 6 volt blower motor works fine. Removed the old asbestos connection on the duct work that goes into car and replaced with 2 1/2" flex exhaust pipe. Next I decided that I did not want to disturb two head bolts to fasten the blower motor in factory position for one winter Christmas parade this coming weekend. I mounted the blower motor on the inside fender well and used 2 1/4" flex exhaust pipe. Started 12 volt car and then ran blower motor with 6 volt battery charger. It is good heat and very strong air blowing in car. I can see a problem if you had a engine that smoked, anti-freeze leak smell and it would suck in engine air, need an outside air source. I am sure this is how heater air source evolved. Also tested the head lights with new 12 volt head lamps, looks nice.
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Asbestos flex replacement with steel flex
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Duct work inside engine compartment, factory location, moving blower motor to fender well.
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Relocated Fender blower fan location
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[RalphG]

That is an interesting heater system you have. I recall seeing a very similar setup on the right side manifold of my 38 parts car engine many years ago. Unfortunately it is 40 years or so since we took it apart and I have no idea where that part ended up. I always thought it had quite a potential for carbon monoxide entering the passenger area.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ralph, could be a potential for carbon monoxide, I agree, I checked the heat ex-changer, inside, it is cast iron like the old steam radiators in homes. I used a big shop vac to blow inside and blocked off the exhaust of heat ex-changer and it did not have any holes I could detect. (large holes). I am sure potential leaks is one reason for change but I did read some where that hot water heat was also available that year.(service manual) This was the last year for the exhaust air heat. I did not even think I would ever install but I am taking the Huntington Christmas Parade Marshal next weekend in parade. He has been very ill and his son said he wanted to ride in an old car, (open car out of question) this is the only car that I could come up with that would protect him from weather and would have GOOD heat. I still will continue to monitor the smells in car for problems or symptoms, it does get hot quick, was 34 degrees here today. Thank you and stay warm, way up North, Merry Christmas

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, the forward hole in the heat exchanger should be piped up to the radiator. There is a shroud that hangs from the two upper radiator hoses that collects fresh air and sends it to the heat exchanger. The blower motor should be connected to the rear hole in the heat exchanger, forcing fresh heated air into the car. That way there is no danger (in a good system) of getting any noxious fumes into the passenger compartment.

[Ken/Alabama]

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Originally Posted by Vic Piano

Bruce, the forward hole in the heat exchanger should be piped up to the radiator. There is a shroud that hangs from the two upper radiator hoses that collects fresh air and sends it to the heat exchanger. The blower motor should be connected to the rear hole in the heat exchanger, forcing fresh heated air into the car. That way there is no danger (in a good system) of getting any noxious fumes into the passenger compartment.

Not true Vic , The blower mounts to the head and pushes air through the forward hole in the heat exchanger. The heated air comes out of the rear hole through a flexible sleeve(originally made from asbestos ) up through a large elbow with the silencer then in the car. The 39s did not have the shroud or collector that hung from the radiator. Best way to check the heat exchanger is to fill it with water up to the two large holes then check for leaks inside the exhaust outlet.

[Vic Piano]

Ken, you are right about the blower motor placement, that was my mistake however, my '39 LZ had the shroud/collector mounted to the radiator, as did my '39 Ford CS. In fact, there are three mounting tabs on the shroud, making it adjustable to fit the Ford or the Zephyr radiator. Maybe they were both retro fit...??? But, according to my research, and information I've garnered from Ford/Lincoln documents, drawings, etc., the shroud/collector was used on hot air heater systems from '37 to '48 on the LZ.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Vic Piano

Ken, you are right about the blower motor placement, that was my mistake however, my '39 LZ had the shroud/collector mounted to the radiator, as did my '39 Ford CS. In fact, there are three mounting tabs on the shroud, making it adjustable to fit the Ford or the Zephyr radiator. Maybe they were both retro fit...??? But, according to my research, and information I've garnered from Ford/Lincoln documents, drawings, etc., the shroud/collector was used on hot air heater systems from '37 to '48 on the LZ.

Yeah,Im not sure when Ford started using collector at the radiator,I know they did in 40 . None of the Zephyr blowers Ive seen used from 37-39 has a provision for the duct to attach to it,they have a door that slides open but the later ones starting in 40 does.Just one of those mysteries I guess.

[Vic Piano]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

Yeah,Im not sure when Ford started using collector at the radiator,I know they did in 40 . None of the Zephyr blowers Ive seen used from 37-39 has a provision for the duct to attach to it,they have a door that slides open but the later ones starting in 40 does.Just one of those mysteries I guess.

Yeah, I agree, there are plenty of mysteries when it comes to Early Ford nomenclatures, etc. I have seen the blowers with and without the "door". My LZ did have the remnants of the hot air system in it, including the shroud however, the blower motor and connecting piping (to the heat exchanger) were missing when I got it.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Yes Vic, I installed using the original parts I got with car, heater works well. I did not want to take a chance on disturbing the head/ head gasket so I relocated blower to fender well, if I had more time I could have hard piped, making a tube that would look like a factory pipe. (will do later) There would be a lot of heat on the little motor in summer time, I now will probably leave installed, it will be something everyone will want to ask "what is that"?? I will tell them it is an "exhaust induction multiplier". This afternoon I freed up both of the defrost cables and got them operational. Also installed the drivers side glove box back in car, installed three modern gauges, mechanical oil, mechanical water temp and voltage meter, hid them in back of glove box. Will go down to Don P. this week to see if he has a 12 Volt small blower motor that I can use on heater system. Last but not least, need to have head light switch installed, there is not any place in the dash to install. Old head light switch is good but a bear to work on underneath the radio controls.
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New gauges in the car to monitor the engine, now you see them.
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Now you do not see them!!!
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[Vic Piano]

Lookin good Bruce. My LZ had the gauges set up like yours but, I removed them. Hoping to have the OEM gauges working with the voltage drop unit we installed. I have an original 'open car' radio for the LZ but I haven't installed it yet. Last weekend I installed the headlight switch and got just about all the electrical components working. Now I'll install the windshield wiper switch and then put the gauge cluster back in the dash.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, going to purchase the one voltage reducer for the original cluster, ( all gauges were still 6 volts up into 60's or 70's ) my gauges all work, ( not reconnected ) need the gas gauge first. Do you have the part number for your voltage drop unit??? I am using a GM style head light switch, dim dash lights/park/ head lights. Tell me more about wiper motor and what you have done, I did find while I had glove box out that the wipers are located behind the defrost metal duct in dash. This will be a big project if I have to remove glove box again, defrost metal duct and free up right angle drive. Need to remove vacuum motor and do maintenance on motor.

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, I got the voltage reducer from Joblot, it is a Dennis Carpenter item, sorry, I don't have the part number. I'm going from memory here so, that's always dangerous but, the wiper motor in my car is located behind, and at the top of, the instrument cluster, (I don't think the metal duct is in the way, as it is mounted on the firewall and below the wiper motor). It is fairly easy to get to with the instrument cluster removed. The wiper motor in my LZ works however, a previous owner had removed the OEM switch/control and rerouted a cable, that they installed in the throttle location on the dash. I located an OEM switch (got it from Merv Adkins, he advertised on the LZOC web site, www.lzoc.org), that I will be installing. The OEM headlight switch in my car is still good, so I'm using it. I did install and NOS headlight dimmer switch. I don't know if this will help you but, here's a photo of the '39 LZ wiper set up, taken from the Ford Service Bulletins.

[estout81]

Bruce,
If the Lincoln gauges are the same as the Ford gauges then you can use a ECH IR1 from NAPA. That is what Ford did when they changed to 12v. Did this on my '48 F-1 when I changed to 12v. Put in series between switch and gauges.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, the wiper set up is the same as your bulletin, the defrost metal duct is right below the L.H. and R.H. wiper drive. After this weekend I will remove water pumps and send to "Skip" and take instrument Cluster out to access the wiper motor.

estout81, thanks for info, I just called NAPA, they wanted $56.39 and told would have to use UPS and add an additional 10.00 for shipping. Looked on e bay, found one in Springfield, OH and it list for 35.00 plus 6.50shipping ( Mid-West Ford ) it list Manufacturer Part Number:
D-10800
Let me know if this seems correct, says use only one for all instruments. thanks for reply and info, Bruce

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, I was thinking of the inlet at the firewall for the metal ducts, not at the top of the cowl for the vents. As for the voltage drop unit that I got, you do only need one to operate all the instruments.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Called O'Reilly Auto parts, they have a 12 to 6 volt reducer good for 2 amps, VR-1, only $11 and in stock. Wondering if these units are good for gauges, read where the cluster only uses 1 amp or less for fuel, temp and oil. Also will have to check my blower motor again with 6 volt battery charger and see what amps are pulled by little motor, might work on that also, any info, let me know, Bruce

[estout81]

Bruce,
You can find the regulator on the back of the instrument panel of most all Ford cars and trucks from '57 thru '89 that I know of. Some have spade lugs and and some have a snap on like 9v batteries. You want the one with spade lug. As for the O'Reilly part, I don't know. It has to be for Ford instruments. It regulates by a heated bimetal strip that is compatible with Ford gauges

[Bruce in southern OH]

Have just about got the basics of the 39 LZ wiring done, I now have a 12 volt blower motor and will work on installation tomorrow. I picked up the tools I have borrowed from Don P. and made a trip to his garage today, took the two fender skirts with me to un-stick the skirts locks. I knew they were rusted up and dirty, found the problem with them after removal. Repaired one passenger side today and will work on the other tomorrow. Hope to install before Saturday evening Christmas Parade, will make a big difference in appearance.
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Fender Skirt lock device before removal, froze in time.
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Removed from skirt, lots of heat on the three screws that hold device to the skirt, next was the locking movable bolt removal, small screw came loose with impact screw driver.
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Shop blasted the outside of device so we could see how to remove covers
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After Don P. and I removed the cover, device was filled solid with rusty sand/dried dirt. Took photo after we removed most dirt.
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Cleaned up very nice, will post more photos tomorrow.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Don P. started on the drivers side skirt today, he had added the welting to the passenger side before I arrived. We removed the locking device on the skirt and took it apart like we did the passenger yesterday. Cleaned up all parts and reassembled. Placed the locking device back in the skirt, Don cut more welting and we placed on the skirt. I took both fender skirts home and placed on the car, do not have any idea when they were last on car but they fit perfect.
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Don P. working on fender skirt
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fender skirt locking device clean up.
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Replaced locking device on skirt
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Placed fender skirt on car!
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Passenger side
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Thanks Don P. for all your hard work, BJ

[Vic Piano]

Lookin good Bruce. What did you use for the fender welt?

[Don]

I had some fender welt left over from a model A job and used contact glue to fasten it on,worked pretty good for a quick fix.Don P

[Bruce in southern OH]

This is what the original 39 LZ welting looks like, held on skirt with brass rivets :
.

.
Don came up with using Model A fender welting, he used spray adhesive, he laid out he welting around skirt ( held in place with cloths pin clamps) and cut out the fender skirt alignment pins and attachment latch. Sprayed both the fender skirt and welting, let it tack up and then installed on the skirt. He trimmed the excess width towards tire off with an exacto razor knife. It is a real learning experience to be with him, so much knowledge to get job done. Oh yeah, it looks GOOD!

[Vic Piano]

That's excellent. My car had no welting left on the skirts when I got it so, I've been wondering what to use after everything gets painted. Thanks. Vic

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, send bring them up and Don and I will install welting, eat pizza for lunch and then you can go back home, sounds like a plan.

[Vic Piano]

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Bruce, that's a good plan, just get rid of the snow first...

[waterboychuck]

Bruce, did you buy you voltage reducer yet? If not you might want to go to a pull a part wrecking yard and buy one for only $1.00. Ford had 6 volt gauges in their cars until the mid 80's thus they each have a reducer. I bought one last year for $1.00 from a pull a part.

[Bruce in southern OH]

No, waterboychuck, wish I had, would like to have a working gas gauge tomorrow. Will go fill car up just to make sure I have enough gas in tank. I do not know of any yards around that still have cars that old in yard. ( everyone around here just has plastic cars!) I will check one place called "Ducky's" in Huntington. Thanks for info, will call as soon as they open in the morning, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Off to the Christmas Parade in Huntington, WV., worked on car all week to finish wiring and 12 volt heater blower. Put in several blankets and a couple of pillows for the Parade Marshal. Mike and Henriella Perry, the family has Heritage Farm and Museum in Wayne County WV. If you look up the web site for the Farm you will be amazed at what they have done, such a great contribution to the Huntington and tri-state area. Mike has experienced some very difficult health issues now for 2 years, he continues to work daily as he health permits, please continue to pray for him and family.
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39 Lincoln Zephyr
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.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Made it through parade, first thing that I found not working was the Alternator, will take alternator to repair shop Monday. I have always had 12 volts at the garage and I thought that it did not charge to 14 Volts because of no load and low idle, and it always started car. ( got home after about a 15 minute drive with lights on, down to 11 volts ) Second Big item is to remove the Two water pumps and ship to SKIP. The car cools itself moving through the air at speed, ( (130) but the car overheated on temp gauge in parade conditions. The temp will just keep climbing if at idle or slow speed. ( stopped car at end of parade and let it cool, filled back up with anti-freeze, fluid loss was 1/2 gallon ) I think that the pumps are corroded after setting so many years, will remove Monday. Merry Christmas to All!!!
.

.

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce
I do not know what type Alternator you have.
On my one wire Delco My guy suggested & I had him install a exciter ( I think that is what it's called ) that starts charging at a idle.
It works great !!

MERRY CHRISTMAS to you also.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bill, I will take alternator to Mr. Nance the repairman and see what he says about the speed, do a test, also ask about an exciter. ( single wire alternator ) Next I drained the 6 gallon of anti-freeze from 39LZ and removed both upper hoses and lower hoses. Need to see if the 39 upper Ford hoses are the same as the 39 Lincoln, will replace them now. I removed the two water pumps and will take to the Post office and ship to Skip. One pump is rough feeling bearing as you turn and other one spins fine, both leak water now around shaft.
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Water pumps
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Upper water hoses, 11 1/2 to 12" long with small bend.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Had three things to do car related today, #1 take alternator to repair shop, #2 take water pumps to post office and ship #3 remove the radiator out of Lincoln and take to radiator shop. Got all three items done early. Will report on the items as I pick them up. Radiator will be done tomorrow, pressure wash and flush, radiator man said we could do 1. pressure wash and flush or 2. hot tank clean, either procedure could possibly ruin or damage the OLD radiator. I elected to pressure wash and flush first. He is the radiator shop that cleaned and lined my gas tank and he said he would take extra care not to damage. ( 45 bucks ) Next I will pickup alternator, alternator man said he would check to see if the regulator was correct and if not install a regulator that would trigger on at 900 RPM.
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Radiator front
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Radiator Rear
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Radiator rear
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Water pump impeller as removed, want to see the new HIGH volume impeller difference???? Also, wonder it new bearings require motor oil to be provided to lubricate??
.

[supereal]

Love those old Lincoln sedans, Bruce. We used to pull or stock car from track to track with one just like it. It was heavy enough so " the tail didn't wag the dog" when we went down the road with the trailer. A dash mounted vacuum gauge helped keep fuel consumption within reason.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Supereal, you don't have any photos of the set up do you?? I have an old vacuum gauge that says on dial " economy green to red zone" will have to find it and see the exact wording again. I would like to find the V 12 dual intake that was on ebay for a while. I think it said " Edmonds " , bidding was always around 850.00 and never met reserve. Those are good stories, had a friend that ran a dirt track car at Clay City Ky. and pulled race car with a Pontiac, one guy sat in open trunk and pressed the surge brake with his foot on trailer so on long down hills the trailer brakes would work. Always said they had fun!!!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

BILL WZOREK, got my alternator back this morning, repair man said the regulator was bad, probably because of armature high amperage. (free alternator, some times free comes with hidden cost ) He changed both parts and said it will now charge at an idle. I told him it might be weeks before I have car were I can test it out. (wait on water pumps)
Called the Radiator shop this morning and owner told me radiator did fine with pressure wash and flush, so he felt fine hot tanking the radiator, reason he wanted to do more was he said he got a small hand full of small nuts/nut shells from radiator!!!!!!!!!!! Called at 4:30PM and he told me to pickup in morning after it dried. You never know about those old cars or how long nuts have been in radiator tank??
Started cleaning up garage today after a summer of working on the 39LZ, these are the tools that I have found in car this summer, three tire tools(two long tire tools do have different ends ), one small tire tool, two pumps, part of the jack (wonder how it worked), small grease gun.
.
LZ tools found in car
.

[RalphG]

That bumper jack is much the same as the one in my 39 Ford. I think they worked ok although I would not advise crawling under a vehicle supported only by that jack. :-)

[Terry,OH]

I always thought the jack with the round hole for the handle was from a GM product (Chevy). The one tire pump does not have the typical Ford wood handle with a bow tie profile, but look carefully at the base it may have a script?? The pump on the right looks good for ford (repair parts are available) The jack handle / tire iron may be correct and the grease gun with a wood handle also looks different than Ford but you have a LZ. You may want to contact Lin Stacey and see if he has info on the LZ or the tools you need to complete the set.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got the 39 radiator back today, need a new drain valve for radiator, leaks and has very little resistance, I was always afraid it might vibrate open. Next thing I need to do is push car outside and flush the block out while I have the water pumps removed, would like to have ideas on what process you have used to clean/flush out. I was thinking of making a adapter for the head water outlet and connect water hose. Then blank of the water pump opening and fill up, do a quick release of water with water turned on? Might see if I can make a water wand out of small copper tube (1/4") and flush out area in water pump opening.
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Radiator returned
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Dated information
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[KiWinUS]

Bruce a suggestion I have would be to make some block offs where the water pumps fit & then fill both sides with white vinegar for a week . Then "Steam Clean" it out , not just a cold water pressure washer .
I love this car !!!
Cheers
Tony

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ok, engine block would hold about 2 gallon, I read you take baking soda and water and rinse to stop vinegar reaction??? Any way the vinegar would be to strong on old cast steel block for a week? Don P. one time cleaned a lot of old casting sand out of a V8 motor, cooled it down. I really think the pumps will improve the idle/parade temperature problem. Will try your suggestion if you don't see any damage happening. thanks Bruce

[JSeery]

If it has never had the casting sand removed you just would not believe how much of it there is in there!!! It is mostly around the rear cylinders (at least on mine). It really is unbelievable. It takes several instruments of mass-destruction to get at it, but well worth the effort. However no idea how you could do it without the block being out of the car. On the engine stand I work on it with wire, long drill bits, etc. and then turn it over ever so often and blow it out. Then worked on it some more. Ended up with quite a pile on the floor.

[Terry,OH]

For my 34 I removed the oil pan and found one of the welsh plugs to be leaking (rusted through) so I removed all four and with the oil pan off, I put a piece of plastic over the crank area and flushed with water through the water pumps as well as the lower mounts and used wire in the rear welsh plug holes to remove build up and foundry sand. I got a couple of cups of junk out of the rear plug holes replaced the welsh plugs and assembled the clean pan.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Not going to remove engine at this time, told that it was rebuild in late 70's and early 80's. I do have all the old pistons, lifters and boxes of old engine parts. Just in 20's to low 30's here now, I will wait and maybe catch a warmer day before the flush. ( warm day for Ralph)
Might make some blanking plates and put vinegar in block to soak. Hope when engine was done that they cleaned up/out, again not a running hot problem, just parade/idle, think the radiator cleaning and new pumps will cure!! Will catch the material from block when I do flush. Thank you, and as always Merry Christmas to all.

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

[COLOR="Red"]BILL these are the tools that I have found in car this summer, three tire tools(two long tire tools do have different ends ), one small tire tool, two pumps, part of the jack (wonder how it worked), small grease gun.
.

Just had a look at the jack that I assume came standard with my 39 Deluxe. Of course it is a Windsor built unit with the name "Auscolift" on one side. Patented May 24, 1938. I might have a handle for it but no idea where the base is. I will try to get a page scanned from my 39 Mercury book showing how to use the jack.

[RalphG]

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And a page from the 1939 Mercury reference book showing correct placement of the bumper jack. It always intrigued me how the jack could grip on a smooth steel post but it works. I've lost/misplaced the base from mine.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks RalphG, great information,

[Terry,OH]

Note the shape of the receiver for the jack handle on RalphG's jack is flat rectangular and not round, this is the typical of the Ford style jack 37-41. An observation on RalphG's jack there is just one locking collar on the shaft extending out just above the handle receiver. This style was changed to two collars next to each other somewhere around 1938. The length of the round shaft was increased in 41. This may or may not be the style of jack used in the LZ in 1939???

[Bruce in southern OH]

Terry, found this on Ebay this morning:

COMPLETE AND MINT ORIGINAL 1937 TO 1939 LINCOLN ZEPHYR BUMPER JACK SHOWN. IT HAS NOT BEEN TOUCHED AND IS EXACTLY AS REMOVED FROM THE TRUNK OF A NICE ORIGINAL CAR. IT HAS MUCH OF THE ORIGINAL GREEN FINISH ON ALL THESE PIECES. IT WAS MADE FOR FORD BY AUTO SPECIALTIES COMPANY OF MICHIGAN AND HAS LINCOLN PART NUMBER 86H-17080. IT INCLUDES THE ORIGINAL HANDLE 86H-17081 AND THE ORIGINAL BASE WHICH IS 86H-17088. IT IS IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION . IMPORTANT WARNING: THESE EARLY FRICTION JACKS ARE NOT SAFE TO USE TO LIFT YOUR CAR. IT SHOULD BE USED FOR DISPLAY ONLY. 151517606908

I now know I have the slick rod handle, found in car, will have to find it again, do not have the base, continue looking, thanks for info, Bruce

[RalphG]

Hopefully a better view of the actual jack I have with my 39 Deluxe here.

[Terry,OH]

I viewed the ebay ad and if the jack is what they think, then it appears the Lincoln used the round receiver for their jack and not the rectangular receiver. .

[Bruce in southern OH]

Found the slick rod, wire brushed with electric motor wire wheel, found no numbers, I did spray with Liquid Wrench and it does work up and release lever lets it come back down.
.

.

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[Terry,OH]

Got the base?? They are hard to find

[Bruce in southern OH]

No base, I would think over the years after having a flat tire along the side of a road, everyone mad or dark rainy night that a lot of the jack parts are long lost. I still after 6 months, looking at all the parts boxes I got with car find items(after someone on the barn says do you have this ). I can make a plate with a hole for rod if I need to ( take a later base plate and weld in a sleeve, machine shop piece ) could be my first project on lathe ? Solid stock with hole drilled in it for jack rod. thanks Terry,OH

[BILL WZOREK]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

No base, I would think over the years after having a flat tire along the side of a road, everyone mad or dark rainy night that a lot of the jack parts are long lost. I still after 6 months, looking at all the parts boxes I got with car find items(after someone on the barn says do you have this ). I can make a plate with a hole for rod if I need to ( take a later base plate and weld in a sleeve, machine shop piece ) could be my first project on lathe ? Solid stock with hole drilled in it for jack rod. thanks Terry,OH

Bruce :

Go ahead and do that ?
It is the best way to find one in you stash
or have some one come forward with any original one.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Bill, the original base on ebay looks military, maybe because of old green paint, thanks Bruce
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http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFg3MjA=/z/W1IAAOSwofxUkObs/$_57.JPG
.
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If you click on JPG it will appear?

[Terry,OH]

Around 1940 most of the jacks and bases were green in color. The green does resemble military O.D. maybe because of the flat finish to the paint. IMO don't bother making a base for the jack, if you can find an original grab it but your not going to use the jack even if you have a flat (Very Dangerous) Even Lin Stacey who sells original tools and kits includes a legal release form with a purchase. Here is a photo of a Ford jack base.

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce the point I was TRYING to make is if you go to all the work and make one you will find the lost one or some one will give you one / at least that is how it happens for me.

[Bruce in southern OH]

It has been awhile, received my Two water pumps back today, can start the install soon:
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New rebuilt water pumps
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.
Old pumps, before sent off
.

[Ken/Alabama]

Dont forget to fill them with oil!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ken, I removed the fill tube stems so I could get to the one bolt on each water pump in block to remove. Thought stems threaded in but found they were just a press in snug fit, will have to find away to install with out damaging the oil fill stem spring cap. I asked "Skip" if the rebuilt water pump used modern bearing that did not need motor oil but he also said I needed to place oil in them, thanks Bruce

[BILL WZOREK]

Bruce:
Find Or turn a bolt the proper size to bottom out in the cup. Then with a few taps of a hammer they should push back in. May be a drop of lock tight to make sure they stay put. ( Just a thought )

[Bruce in southern OH]

Sounds like a plan, I will do that, thank you Bill

[cmbrucew]

Any updates?
Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

cmbrucew, just so happens that I installed the water pumps on Monday, I have been insulating the garage that has my lift.(cold back east ) I called Ken in Alabama and asked him a question about correct bolts to install the water pumps, I had six of 3/4" X 5/16" course and they had a 1/4" shoulder. Two of the eight bolts were 1 long. Found two matching bolts in my old bolts/nuts box. This should be correct, I am holding off installing the radiator until I remove front splash pan, it has two rust holes from radiator fluid damage. I also think while I have all this room I will remove the two front pot metal grills and see who can clean and chrome, do not want them to remain unprotected. Anyone with NOS grills or location of someone that chromes pot metal is appreciated, thanks for asking,

[cmbrucew]

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Bruce
I would recommend a stainless bolt for the hidden one, if the v12 water pumps are like the v8. Good luck with the chrome job. Here in California the EPA has forced most chrome shops out of business. Some relocated to Texas I heard.
Bruce

[Vic Piano]

The V-12 water pumps don't have the hidden bolt inside, they also do not serve as front motor mounts.

[cmbrucew]

Any thing new?
Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Hey, cmbrucew, have the front gravel guard at a friends to paint black when he has time, Don P. repaired for me. I then can install the radiator, hoses and fill with anti-freeze. The hold up with me is we have a record -22 at home, clearing snow and now have been without water for 7 days. I have been helping others with drinking water and last week took tractor and cleared parking lots for friends, church. Just seems like we were going miss winter and now we are making up for the misses of mega snows up in New England. Thank you for checking on me. ( garage is cold )

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed the two front grills from 39LZ, was going to take to chrome plating firm to have pot metal plated but could not find any one local that did pot metal. I had started cleaning the grills on car with 4/0 steel wool but was slow going. I have the radiator removed to install rebuilt water pumps and the repair of gravel guard. I got a warm day this week so I removed the two grills and called Don p. to go visit and get his thoughts of what I should do to clean. We took a soft wire brush he had for drill motor and it cleaned the green tarnish off pretty well. Next we media blasted the back and sides of grill bars to see how that worked. Next tried some of the mirror spray paint to see how it coated the bars on back side. This seemed like a good way to clean up grills so I loaded them back up and returned to my garage. Spent rest of day doing both grills and re-installing them, turned out well for an old car.
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39 LZ Front Grills
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NOW I HAVE A BIG QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!! I AM 99.44% FULL OF CAPACITY of my photobucket account, question is how do I remove old photos and save to free up space for future photos, if I go over this amount I have to pay storage. Need to know what you/anyone has done when this happens, thanks Bruce ( hope Spring has Sprung )

[Randy in ca]

Quote ...........NOW I HAVE A BIG QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!! I AM 99.44% FULL OF CAPACITY of my photobucket account, question is how do I remove old photos and save to free up space for future photos, if I go over this amount I have to pay storage. Need to know what you/anyone has done when this happens, thanks Bruce ( hope Spring has Sprung)


This is exactly one of the reasons many have opinionated in the past not to use a photo hosting service such as Photobucket. Load them into Fordbarn and they'll be there for as long as Fordbarn itself is around, or at least as long as the thread itself is still accessible. It is extremely frustrating and totally degrades threads when page after page is filled with these (below) instead of the pictures that were originally there. The pictures themselves are often the most interesting and valuable part of a thread. Just my humble opinion for what it's worth!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Randy, if I move photo's that are not on the barn but are using my space up, how do you move them to a flash drive???

[Bruce in southern OH]

Anyone with more information on how to free up space on photobucket so I can post to Fordbarn??

Previous post 03-13-15

NOW I HAVE A BIG QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!! I AM 99.44% FULL OF CAPACITY of my photobucket account, question is how do I remove old photos and save to free up space for future photos, if I go over this amount I have to pay storage. Need to know what you/anyone has done when this happens, thanks Bruce ( hope Spring has Sprung )

[TonyM]

This 1937 Ford Fordor De Luxe Sedan was in storage for 50 years -- from the early 1960s until 2013, when I got it running. Here is a photo of the car after I fixed it up and a photo shot on the day I purchased it.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Very nice work, they are out there!!

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Anyone with more information on how to free up space on photobucket so I can post to Fordbarn??

Previous post 03-13-15

NOW I HAVE A BIG QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!! I AM 99.44% FULL OF CAPACITY of my photobucket account, question is how do I remove old photos and save to free up space for future photos, if I go over this amount I have to pay storage. Need to know what you/anyone has done when this happens, thanks Bruce ( hope Spring has Sprung )

I have a photo bucket album too. I have not actually tried it but there is a tab over on the right side of page that says "download album". I am assuming this would allow you to download all the photos in the album to your computer or external hard drive of your choice.

[V8COOPMAN]

Could be wrong, but I believe that when you remove a photo from Photobucket (or any other hoster) that any of those photos that you posted on this site will disappear from this site, and you've posted a bunch. Why not open a second, additional free account from another hosting service? DD

[Bruce in southern OH]

V8COOPMAN/everyone, sounds good, what are other sites that offer this service and are compatible with Fordbarn, appreciate the help, Bruce

RalphG, will look into your information, ( will have my son look ) thanks Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Have been working on the Gravel Guard of the 39 LZ, I replaced the Gravel Guard last couple of weeks, installed the radiator, hoses, anti-freeze, re-built water pumps, alternator with new regulator, installed motor fan. Now I started engine, alternator 13.5 to 14 volts great, now have good recharge and all looks good. Took car out road for test drive, turned from my road to main road which is a right turn with a twist up hill. Now I hear a clinging sound and pull in to a church parking lot and back up and forward, sound gone. So out I go for a short four or five mile trip, no noise, no problem. Pull into driveway and the clinging returns but not stopping, leave car running and find that the fan blade is touching the drivers side radiator hose or clamp. Moved car around and it stopped and back to garage. Got to looking around to see what problem was and the motor was about a 1/2" farther to the drivers side in cross member than to the passenger side. I could pry the motor over to passenger side but it would slowly move right back. Checked the old motor mounts and they were like chewing gum material and completely crushed down to metal to metal. Again had to reverse all my work and take everything apart. Found out how to get motor mounts out of car and placed a wanted ad on Ford Barn for Lincoln motor mounts, NONE. Called Ken in Alabama and got info about the history of motor mounts and where to ask about replacements. NONE to be had. I took old motor mounts to Don P's and we cleaned up and replaced the Vulcanized material with belt line material. "if you have used belt line at a mine site you know how tough the material is ". Cleaned, Cut, drilled, measured and we came up with a QUALITY replacement motor mount that will last for years. Installed today, motor is now about 1/2 higher in the front ( clearance from lower radiator hoses now good ) and motor is now in the center of the engine compartment. I now think I have had all components out of the old car!!! Reconnected everything this evening and started up, looks like this will work, test drive tomorrow. Thanks for the help as always DON!!!!!
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Motor Mounts for 39LZ, one is a 39 original mount and the right one is a 40 thru 48 motor mount
.

.
Finish installing the side pieces of belt line at my garage
.

[cmbrucew]

Lots of uses for old conveyor belt.
Sounds like you and Don have everything sorted out on your 39, and should be able to enjoy it all summer. Don't know about Ohio, but West Virginia is beautiful to tour the old highways. Was there in 1977 on my Harley.
Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

cmbrucew, it has been 80 degrees a week ago, this morning it was 29 and finished this evening at about 58. It is just Spring time in the Ohio Valley, yes we do have great winding roads in all three states where we live. I do plan on getting to drive the car a lot this year now that the Columbia is working, new tires and seems that all is well. ( keep fingers crossed ) thanks and stay safe, Bruce

[copperpenny]

Bruce, check with Merv Atkins in California about a revulcanized fromt motor mount. He may be able to have yours done. Maybe Dennis Carpenter might help. Merv's phone is 909 980 1332. Good luck.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Copperpenny, thank you for phone number. I would have to find a bad set of 40 thru 48 mounts. You know that some where in a dark garage, out building or attic is a set of these in good condition. Also the early 36/37 Lincolns used the standard Ford "biscuit" type mounts and the cross member was like a Ford. Don and I both looked at modern mounts that would/could be interchanged or modified to work. If I had more time to search out a modern set I would have, most mounts we found that looked promising were the rear transmission mounts. I elected to refurbish these so I did not have a lot of down time. I have told others that as soon as I fixed mine several sets would become available, still waiting on that. Thanks again and stay safe, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Took the 39 LZ out for first time on I-64 for 15 Miles of continuous travel on Highway, runs like a champ. 65 MPH was comfortable, need a stiffer set of shocks, on bridge expansion joints and bumps I get a little "dribble" effect from front tires. Also when I start engine it has about 40 PSI oil pressure, warmed up about 20 PSI, coming off the exit ramp to a stop showed little 5 PSI. Start driving, back up to 20 PSI. Cooled down at Cruise In and started home 40 PSI and 20 as I drove. My 41 pickup truck is the same way on hot days!!!! Thanks, and drive safe, BJ

[cmbrucew]

Bruce
What tires do you have on the LZ? What air pressure? If your shocks are adjustable try that.
Wish you a whole summer of enjoyment with the car.
Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

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New 7:00 X 16 stock bias Lester tires, I will check pressure, I think I have 30 to 35lbs. I will look at shocks but I refilled with Castro oil . They are old stock ones but still had resistance and moved!!! That is the problem, I have had this happen on the little light 34 and shocks were problem, need to find good ones or go to a modern shock for safety and handling. Going for a 100 mile trip today at 4:00 PM EST and it will be 90 degrees out, as long as I am moving things will be good, checking all fluids now and hope for the best.

[cmbrucew]

Bruce
How many ply are those bias tires? 700X16 may be 6 ply which will ride stiff.
Have a fun trip.
Bruce

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, sounds like you are having fun with the LZ. My LZ had been converted to tube shocks up front and I replaced them with new tube shocks while Bill Wzorek rebuilt the OEM rear shocks. I run BF Goodrich (Coker) bias ply (6 ply) 700x16 WWW on the LZ at 32psi, the ride is very smooth and she tracks well. Mike and I drove her down to Sarasota two weeks ago in 90+ degree temps. She ran well, didn't overheat or push much oil. Nothing like going topless in a Zephyr.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, I am going to remove my Steel Fan from motor and purchase a "pull through" type electric fan. I was coming home several days ago in the day time and got caught on a local bridge that is now under construction/repair and traffic lights now installed. ( one lane ) I had to wait for about 15 min. while moving up slowly for the light to let traffic go both ways. The car has a temp. gauge installed in the drivers side head. ( 40 cast iron ) The temp on the head read about 220 before I got to clean air/ moving again. Driving it dropped to 190 quickly and on to the house about 180. ( outside air temp 90 ) But if I stop for any amount of time it will heat quickly. I had radiator cleaned/tested, new rebuild pumps by "skip" water is clear. Last night driving home at 9:30PM cool air ran at 160 at about 60 MPH. Do not know if it is just the place that temp is being taken, I am going to add a temp expansion tank to car for the water, always looses water after I stop. ( turn off engine and park ) Your thoughts??????

[Vic Piano]

Bruce, I run my LZ with 'Skips' water pumps and coil, with no thermostats, in the usual 80+ degree temps here in central Florida, where the duration of the 'red' traffic lights is sooo long, you can almost feel your metabolism changing (due to aging) while you wait for the light to change... I've seen the temp gauge climb up to the 220 range as well, and, just like you said, it drops back to the 160 to 180 degree range almost as soon as the car starts moving. One thing I haven't experienced with the LZ is a loss of coolant after shut down. I run just water with a rust inhibitor additive in the cooling system.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I have/had over filled the radiator to top, (50/50 anti-freeze up north ) I will leave at 4" lower in radiator so it can expand when stopped and see how that works. The 39 does not have a shroud to direct he air, the fan is just beating air around in the engine compartment. I have my 40 Ford with an electric fan on it and removed the old steel fan and it really changed the cooling of car. 40 also does/did not have a shroud. Told that a product "water wetter" would also improve temp. problem, never used, thanks and will let you know how 12 volt pull through fan preforms in a couple of days/weeks, thank you, BJ

[Vic Piano]

I'm looking forward to seeing how the electric fan works to improve cooling on your LZ. My '39 Ford CS does not have a shroud on the radiator. I have 'Skip' built water pumps on it, and also run just water with a rust inhibitor additive and no thermostats. the '39 CS will cruise at 60-65 mph all day long in 80+ temps and never gets above 185 degrees. However, it does exhibit the same characteristics as the '39 LZ when stopped as traffic lights.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I am still driving the 39 with no problems, Great Old Cars !!!

[slowforty]

If you put on an expansion tank make it a big one. I use a three liter pop bottle. And now I just found a five quart bottle that i am going to use.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Vic Piano

I'm looking forward to seeing how the electric fan works to improve cooling on your LZ. My '39 Ford CS does not have a shroud on the radiator. I have 'Skip' built water pumps on it, and also run just water with a rust inhibitor additive and no thermostats. the '39 CS will cruise at 60-65 mph all day long in 80+ temps and never gets above 185 degrees. However, it does exhibit the same characteristics as the '39 LZ when stopped as traffic lights.

Vic, Are you running a pressure cap? You know the Zephyr has a very tall radiator neck so it makes it hard to fit a pressure cap. what I did was install one of Skips 4 lb pressure valves on the overflow tube.