The Ford Barn

Gil Sissons · 07-21-2015, 01:48 PM

I would appreciate some input re engine oil.
We have a recently rebuilt "touring" engine.
The engine builder suggested Valvolene VR-1
Race oil. Which we have used the ffirst 1K.
But....that stuff is $11 quart.
What about the rest if you.... Cannot believe
Many of you are filling up with the VR-1.
What do you use? Do you add lead.... Or anything else?
And with normal driving .... How often change your oil?
Thanks for the feedback. Gil. NoCal

Big hammer · 07-21-2015, 02:09 PM

Contact your builder he can tell you what he uses after break in :-)

WestCoast · 07-21-2015, 02:19 PM

any multigrade oil you like, I use 20-50 valvolene, make sure on the badge on the front of the container does not say (for gasoline engines) it does not have zink in it, it is for modern engines with roller tappet cams and lifters and catalytic converters

bdave_mcc · 07-21-2015, 04:19 PM

Rotella "diesel" oil, 15-40 is what I use. It's about 15 a gallon and is a good oil for flat tappet type engines. Its what my builder recommends for race engines with flat tappet cams or roller cams and it gets the job done well in the model a. We could get into a whole nother discussion about whether the model a needs the zinc or not due to the camshaft material vs. modern camshaft materials but we don't have to. I prefer to have the zinc as I know it helps with other engines and it sure can't hurt. JMO

CarlG · 07-21-2015, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdave_mcc

Rotella "diesel" oil, 15-40 is what I use. It's about $15 a gallon ...

Sure beats the $12.50/liter I paid for Mobil 1 while on vacation in Canada a couple of weeks ago for my modern.

40 Deluxe · 07-21-2015, 05:26 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Oil of the '20's and '30's did not have any zinc in it! Zinc is not needed in your Model A! Modern high RPM performance engines with huge spring pressures (300#+ open) need zinc, but NOT a Model A with barely 100#. It's amazing how easily we fall for modern myths like this!

Skibb · 07-21-2015, 07:18 PM

Gil, if your engine has a warranty from the builder you might want to stay with his recommendation. I use synethic 10w-30 with changes at 1,000 miles. I buy my "oil" at Walmart in 5 gallon jugs. Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about oil but have had superb results or "luck" using full synethic in trucks and cars.. And there is no need for a $55.00 oil fill in any A.

bdave_mcc · 07-21-2015, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Oil of the '20's and '30's did not have any zinc in it! Zinc is not needed in your Model A! Modern high RPM performance engines with huge spring pressures (300#+ open) need zinc, but NOT a Model A with barely 100#. It's amazing how easily we fall for modern myths like this!

Ha-ha thats what I was talking about when I said we could get into a whole other debate about whether it's needed for a model A or not. More than spring pressures and rpms its got some to do with the grade or composition of the materials in the casting and forging process of the camshaft. But yeah, its not needed in the model a, I cant dispute that. It sure doesn't hurt though.

WestCoast · 07-21-2015, 08:38 PM

LOL bdave, no the a's didn't have zink in the oil for them it wasn't used in oil then, but I bet Henry would have called for it if he had access to it, any thing that reduces friction and wear is good for any engine, modern cars running oil with zink in it will go for over 200,000 miles, will your model A do that?

bdave_mcc · 07-21-2015, 09:04 PM

Now that would be nice!

mrtexas · 07-21-2015, 09:15 PM

Any brand name oil will be OK. Stay away from non-detergent. Remember you will change it after 500 miles!

Hicktick · 07-21-2015, 09:24 PM

I am bad about whining about prices ,., my wife laughs at me ,., but in prospective it cost me about 35 bucks to change oil in my lawn mower /tractor ,. oh and you have to Grease the front end before every use or its a bear to steer ,., I think they put too much weight on the front .,
My Daddy always said son oil is cheaper than bearings ., ,.,
.,
.,

,.,.,

31Abone · 07-21-2015, 11:24 PM

I have a new rebuilt and its tight ..so I put in 5-20 for the first 1000.

Gil Sissons · 07-22-2015, 10:47 AM

Thanks for the input.
What about oil changes?
Yes.... I know in the day.... With the quality of oil
Combined with road conditions .... 500 miles was
The standard mark.
What do you do change wise?

Skibb · 07-22-2015, 09:30 PM

Now using synethic so every 1,000 but I love changing oil or doing maintenance on my A so it might be sooner.

Bruce Adams · 07-22-2015, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlG

Sure beats the $12.50/liter I paid for Mobil 1 while on vacation in Canada a couple of weeks ago for my modern.

Walmart gets about $24 for five quarts, or less than $5 per liter for MOBIL ONE. I use it in my Model A as well as my modern cars and trucks. I DO WONDER why someone would suggest synthetic oil for "Break In Oil" though. I used Mineral Oil, (Castrol 5W30) for my rebuilt Model A Engine during break in.

fiddlybits · 07-23-2015, 03:50 AM

I change it with the oil I take out of my truck.. ;-)

Mike V. Florida · 07-23-2015, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skibb

gil, if your engine has a warranty from the builder you might want to stay with his recommendation. I use synethic 10w-30 with changes at 1,000 miles. I buy my "oil" at walmart in 5 gallon jugs. Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about oil but have had superb results or "luck" using full synethic in trucks and cars.. And there is no need for a $55.00 oil fill in any a.

x-2

Terry, NJ · 07-23-2015, 06:52 AM

Someone will dispute this, probably, But a better method would be to use a cheap oil for the first 10 hours ( Part of that is high idle) and then dump it.When I was working on airplanes, we would run mineral oil for a short time and drain it in new engines. Then replace with our normal running oil. Newly rebuilt engines need a flush soon after starting.
Terry

Quote:

Originally Posted by 31Abone

I have a new rebuilt and its tight ..so I put in 5-20 for the first 1000.

raprice22 · 07-23-2015, 04:37 PM

I' ve only used 10W30 detergent oil in my '30 Ford since I bought it in 2000. Of course the engine was rebuilt and very clean inside. The oil works as advertised.
I don't believe in non-detgergent oil at all. I'm convinced that if Ford had detergent oil available to him, that's what he would have recommended.
Rog

Karl · 07-23-2015, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WestCoast

LOL bdave, no the a's didn't have zink in the oil for them it wasn't used in oil then, but I bet Henry would have called for it if he had access to it, any thing that reduces friction and wear is good for any engine, modern cars running oil with zink in it will go for over 200,000 miles, will your model A do that?

Of course not but the 200,000 miles might have more to do with modern design than zinc additives. Model A's never had air filters or oil filters or themostats -The addition of these in the modern car probably plays an important part in its longevity -Karl

Gil Sissons · 07-23-2015, 11:08 PM

Well... I went back to the discount auto to buy oil.
Finally got to talk to someone who could deal a little.
Since the engine builder had specked the VR-1
Racing oil... Felt 1 more try to get it at reasonable price
Was worth a try. Bottom line...they had wanted $11 per quart.
And got it for $6 quart. So oil change costs $30.
Now that break in is done builder says 1000 miles
Between service works fine. Gil. NoCal

07-21-2015, 01:48 PM	#1
Gil Sissons Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: No Cal Posts: 224	oil CHANGE I would appreciate some input re engine oil. We have a recently rebuilt "touring" engine. The engine builder suggested Valvolene VR-1 Race oil. Which we have used the ffirst 1K. But....that stuff is $11 quart. What about the rest if you.... Cannot believe Many of you are filling up with the VR-1. What do you use? Do you add lead.... Or anything else? And with normal driving .... How often change your oil? Thanks for the feedback. Gil. NoCal Last edited by Gil Sissons; 07-22-2015 at 11:05 AM. Reason: modify heading

07-21-2015, 02:09 PM	#2
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,131	Re: oil Contact your builder he can tell you what he uses after break in :-)

07-21-2015, 02:19 PM	#3
WestCoast Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: oroville calif Posts: 893	Re: oil any multigrade oil you like, I use 20-50 valvolene, make sure on the badge on the front of the container does not say (for gasoline engines) it does not have zink in it, it is for modern engines with roller tappet cams and lifters and catalytic converters

07-21-2015, 04:19 PM	#4
bdave_mcc Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: McCalla, AL Posts: 181	Re: oil Rotella "diesel" oil, 15-40 is what I use. It's about 15 a gallon and is a good oil for flat tappet type engines. Its what my builder recommends for race engines with flat tappet cams or roller cams and it gets the job done well in the model a. We could get into a whole nother discussion about whether the model a needs the zinc or not due to the camshaft material vs. modern camshaft materials but we don't have to. I prefer to have the zinc as I know it helps with other engines and it sure can't hurt. JMO Last edited by bdave_mcc; 07-21-2015 at 04:25 PM.

07-21-2015, 05:26 PM	#6
40 Deluxe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: now Kuna, Idaho Posts: 3,779	Re: oil Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Oil of the '20's and '30's did not have any zinc in it! Zinc is not needed in your Model A! Modern high RPM performance engines with huge spring pressures (300#+ open) need zinc, but NOT a Model A with barely 100#. It's amazing how easily we fall for modern myths like this!

07-21-2015, 07:18 PM	#7
Skibb Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Jupiter, FL Posts: 536	Re: oil Gil, if your engine has a warranty from the builder you might want to stay with his recommendation. I use synethic 10w-30 with changes at 1,000 miles. I buy my "oil" at Walmart in 5 gallon jugs. Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about oil but have had superb results or "luck" using full synethic in trucks and cars.. And there is no need for a $55.00 oil fill in any A.

07-21-2015, 08:38 PM	#9
WestCoast Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: oroville calif Posts: 893	Re: oil LOL bdave, no the a's didn't have zink in the oil for them it wasn't used in oil then, but I bet Henry would have called for it if he had access to it, any thing that reduces friction and wear is good for any engine, modern cars running oil with zink in it will go for over 200,000 miles, will your model A do that? Last edited by WestCoast; 07-21-2015 at 08:53 PM.

07-21-2015, 09:04 PM	#10
bdave_mcc Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: McCalla, AL Posts: 181	Re: oil Now that would be nice!

07-21-2015, 09:15 PM	#11
mrtexas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sugar Land, TX Posts: 4,395	Re: oil Any brand name oil will be OK. Stay away from non-detergent. Remember you will change it after 500 miles!

07-21-2015, 09:24 PM	#12
Hicktick Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Hickory Tavern , SC Posts: 422	Re: oil I am bad about whining about prices ,., my wife laughs at me ,., but in prospective it cost me about 35 bucks to change oil in my lawn mower /tractor ,. oh and you have to Grease the front end before every use or its a bear to steer ,., I think they put too much weight on the front ., My Daddy always said son oil is cheaper than bearings ., ,., ., ., ,.,., __________________ Sometimes I want to say ,,You should have bought a Shay.

07-21-2015, 11:24 PM	#13
31Abone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Big pine Ca 93513 Posts: 797	Re: oil I have a new rebuilt and its tight ..so I put in 5-20 for the first 1000.

07-22-2015, 10:47 AM	#14
Gil Sissons Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: No Cal Posts: 224	Re: oil Thanks for the input. What about oil changes? Yes.... I know in the day.... With the quality of oil Combined with road conditions .... 500 miles was The standard mark. What do you do change wise?

07-22-2015, 09:30 PM	#15
Skibb Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Jupiter, FL Posts: 536	Re: oil CHANGE Now using synethic so every 1,000 but I love changing oil or doing maintenance on my A so it might be sooner.

07-23-2015, 03:50 AM	#17
fiddlybits Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: N Illinois Posts: 447	Re: oil CHANGE I change it with the oil I take out of my truck.. ;-)

07-23-2015, 04:37 PM	#20
raprice22 Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 80	Re: oil CHANGE I' ve only used 10W30 detergent oil in my '30 Ford since I bought it in 2000. Of course the engine was rebuilt and very clean inside. The oil works as advertised. I don't believe in non-detgergent oil at all. I'm convinced that if Ford had detergent oil available to him, that's what he would have recommended. Rog

07-23-2015, 11:08 PM	#22
Gil Sissons Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: No Cal Posts: 224	Re: oil CHANGE Well... I went back to the discount auto to buy oil. Finally got to talk to someone who could deal a little. Since the engine builder had specked the VR-1 Racing oil... Felt 1 more try to get it at reasonable price Was worth a try. Bottom line...they had wanted $11 per quart. And got it for $6 quart. So oil change costs $30. Now that break in is done builder says 1000 miles Between service works fine. Gil. NoCal