51 F2 226 Project

[FirstGenF2]

For now, I have frame body and engine questions, this is my first ever project so I'm pretty clueless about the ins and outs of restoring a truck as a daily driver.

[toby]

Get a shop manual. It helps a great deal.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by FirstGenF2

For now, I have frame body and engine questions, this is my first ever project so I'm pretty clueless about the ins and outs of restoring a truck as a daily driver.

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Ask away, there are lots of knowledgeable members here that are
willing and able to help, and answer most any question you have.






.

[41Joe]

Those 6 cylinders are nice engines. Very hard to find aftermarket parts, very rare. I have an H-Series in my 41 and it is nice, and different.

[FirstGenF2]

I allready have and read most of the manual pertaining to the engine and frame, does anyone know where to get a rear crossmember because mine has a 90 degree bend in it

[FirstGenF2]

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My spring break starts today so im going to be spending the next 9 days straightenig and painting the frame, any tips for stripping rust? Is clr any good?

[FortyNiner]

Your first action will be to use protective gear - eye/breathing/hearing.

What kind of result are you after: driver, show, other?

Media blasting is the best choice for cleaning frames. There are a variety of media solutions available. Alternatively, wire wheels/brushes have their fans. Rust converters are popular for others. CLR is great for minor rust/mineral deposits on plumbing - not effective for this task. You absolutely need to get anything loose off the surface as part of your efforts.

You'll also need to decide on the finished surface: encapsulator (POR 15 or similar), powder coat (superior look and durability), or fancy paint to complete a certain look.

[FirstGenF2]

I'm currently working on the frame, getting it to bare metal with a wire wheel, and using por 15 to coat it when finished, I've tried some durability tests and that stuffs stronger than i thought it would be after one coat. im also heating and banging dents out on the cab and prepping to weld on a couple of replacement panels on the cab corners and bottoms of the fenders.

[FortyNiner]

Be certain to check the directions for your POR15 as some versions are prone to UV fade.

[FirstGenF2]

Your right I was planning on applying the top coat once I have the whole frame done with the base layer.

[FirstGenF2]

Im looking into getting a material blaster to clear the frame and body sections but know nothing about them. any tips tricks/ reccomendations?

[FortyNiner]

You'll need a good compressor to feed it - the bigger the better. I bought the Harbor Freight sand blaster unit and it is serviceable. Protective gear is a must.

Might be worth checking Craigs List in your area.

[FirstGenF2]

how much did the harbor freight sand blaster run you? I don't need a massive one, just one to do the frame and some body panels, im going to harbor freight to price them out tomorrow.

[FortyNiner]

I bought the 100# version for about $100, back a few years ago. The smaller unit would be just as useful but needs to be refilled more often. The compressor needs to be at least a 40 gallon unit.

[FirstGenF2]

Anyone know of where to get the valve tools for the 226? I'm having a hell of a time trying to remove them with other tools.

[flatheadmurre]

The later 226 doesn´t take any special valve tools...valve spring compressor get the keepers out and apart it falls.

[FortyNiner]

Check with Van Pelt Sales on the tools.

[edhd58]

The parts readily available for the H 226.

[41Joe]

I used a standard valve spring compressor when I did mine.
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50602-V.../dp/B002GQEZH0

[FirstGenF2]

The 51' has the rotating type valves with a (seemingly pressed on) sleve over the locking keys, how do you go about removing this without doing to much damage overall. and also tips on re installing the rotating type valves would be helpful.