The Ford Barn

corvette8n · 10-22-2019, 11:36 AM

Put the hub in the freezer overnight, went to my local hardware store and picked up a USA made 12" long drift punch, a few hits with the ball peen and it came right out. With the right process and the right tools thing are so much easier.

JSeery · 10-22-2019, 12:00 PM

It always worked for me, but with just the drift, not the freezing.

Fordestes · 10-22-2019, 12:44 PM

I sometimes run a weld around the inside of bearing race and let cool, the weld tends to srink the diameter of the race, this was a common practice where the race was installed in an aluminum hub. I also used the same method to remove stubborn dry type cylinder liners from diesel engines as to avoid damaging engine blocks from the use of a liner puller .

coolcoupe · 10-23-2019, 02:59 PM

How do reinstall the race ?

JSeery · 10-23-2019, 03:06 PM

Use a large diameter drift punch or a round rod to drive them into place.

corvette8n · 10-23-2019, 03:07 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by coolcoupe

How do reinstall the race ?

From what I understand you can use a brass punch or a bearing race driver, I picked up a set on EBay, we will see how it goes. I also plan to put the race in thee freezer for 24 hours before I try to install it.

3twinridges · 10-23-2019, 04:33 PM

Like others have said, I just lay a nice thick bead on the race. Let it cool and it will slide right out. Avoids mangling the parts or your fingers.

JB

Bored&Stroked · 10-24-2019, 07:46 AM

Re-installation: I have a Harbor Freight hydraulic press - best damn thing I've bought recently (think it was about $200). It was a necessary investment for me to be able to build Banjo Rears, but it comes in handy for a LOT of bearing related activities (both on and off). BUT - it would not have helped me take the race off (in your case) . . . but I'd sure use it to put one back in.

PS: The weld bead trick -- really works in a situation like a banjo housing - where you need to get the race out of the bell side . . . and it would take a LONG punch to do so.

Another trick: Sometimes I'll weld a "bar" across an inner bearing race - so I can pull it out.

10-22-2019, 11:36 AM	#1
corvette8n Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY Posts: 2,946	Bearing race removal success Put the hub in the freezer overnight, went to my local hardware store and picked up a USA made 12" long drift punch, a few hits with the ball peen and it came right out. With the right process and the right tools thing are so much easier.

10-22-2019, 12:00 PM	#2
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Bearing race removal success It always worked for me, but with just the drift, not the freezing.

10-22-2019, 12:44 PM	#3
Fordestes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 886	Re: Bearing race removal success I sometimes run a weld around the inside of bearing race and let cool, the weld tends to srink the diameter of the race, this was a common practice where the race was installed in an aluminum hub. I also used the same method to remove stubborn dry type cylinder liners from diesel engines as to avoid damaging engine blocks from the use of a liner puller .

10-23-2019, 02:59 PM	#4
coolcoupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ontario,Canada Posts: 450	Re: Bearing race removal success How do reinstall the race ?

10-23-2019, 03:06 PM	#5
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Bearing race removal success Use a large diameter drift punch or a round rod to drive them into place.

10-23-2019, 04:33 PM	#7
3twinridges Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 547	Re: Bearing race removal success Like others have said, I just lay a nice thick bead on the race. Let it cool and it will slide right out. Avoids mangling the parts or your fingers. JB

10-24-2019, 07:46 AM	#8
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,062	Re: Bearing race removal success Re-installation: I have a Harbor Freight hydraulic press - best damn thing I've bought recently (think it was about $200). It was a necessary investment for me to be able to build Banjo Rears, but it comes in handy for a LOT of bearing related activities (both on and off). BUT - it would not have helped me take the race off (in your case) . . . but I'd sure use it to put one back in. PS: The weld bead trick -- really works in a situation like a banjo housing - where you need to get the race out of the bell side . . . and it would take a LONG punch to do so. Another trick: Sometimes I'll weld a "bar" across an inner bearing race - so I can pull it out.