Model A motor froze-up

[BetsyModelA]

Hi Partridgekelley, nice to have your advice and well-wishes for Betsy. Thank goodness, the motor has become unstuck. An earlier entry referring to midgetracer, who actually came with his socket set and a "Tom's Tool" and unstuck the motor for me. I should probably start a new thread for Betsy to tell of my progress and woes. But, I've just continued on from whence we started. I have received a lot of good info regarding getting "unfroze." The "Tom's Tool" did it especially after a lot of MMO.
Best regards, from Betsy

[Ross/Kzoo]

Yes, if you could start a new thread and maybe title it "Model A motor WAS froze-up"

[BetsyModelA]

Thank you, Ross/Kzoo, that sounds like a good idea. I'll try to start a new thread.
BetsyModelA

[BetsyModelA]

For the life of me, I can't get a couple of rusted nuts to come off. I need to get them out of the frame that they are in so I can put a different battery box in that spot. All of my penetrating oils/sprays aren't working. Getting very dishearted! I can see that winter is coming on. Wanted to have Betsy running before snow flies. Someone suggested torching them off. I'm afraid of a fire.

[Tom Wesenberg]

You might be able to heat them enough with a small propane torch, but an oxy/acc torch would be the real ticket. Are there any local gear heads that could help?

My dad often used a hammer and chisel to split the nut. Set the chisel blade parallel to the bolt and in the center of the flat, then hammer away until the nut splits. Best to use a chisel guard or chisel holder to avoid smashing your hand, as I did the other day while trying to remove a tire from a rim.

[Ross/Kzoo]

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If you have reasonable access to the nuts you may be able get a Dremel cut off wheel in there to either split the nut or enough to get the chisel in there like Tom said.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

If you have reasonable access to the nuts you may be able get a Dremel cut off wheel in there to either split the nut or enough to get the chisel in there like Tom said.

Was also going to suggest this. The Dremel tool has worked well for my in a number of occasions. Harbor Freight, I think, has a copy of one that is reasonable.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you need a Dremel I prefer the real deal rather than something from China. I've purchased a few Dremels on ebay with the box and accessories for $20 to $40.

[zzlegend]

It might sound crazy but I had a 40 ford once that had very rusty nuts and bolts that had to come off. When I tried to loosen them, they would either strip or sometimes break, which I was happy with. And then I got the idea to just tighten the crap out of them, and sure enough they just broke off. So the rest I just tighten and snapped them all off. Not saying yours would do this, but maybe worth a try. Good luck with it.

[Ross/Kzoo]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If you need a Dremel I prefer the real deal rather than something from China. I've purchased a few Dremels on ebay with the box and accessories for $20 to $40.

Is Dremel made in America?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

Is Dremel made in America?

My older Dremel model 270 is. I haven't bought any of the newer models, so I can't speak for those.

[PC/SR]

There is a tool called a nut splitter. It fits over the nut, and you tighten a screw that forces a blade into the side of the nut and splits it. Google nut splitter. Works good.

[Wisconsinjimmy]

I have a nut splitter that works fine the problem is the unruly size of the tool makes it hard in tight spots but does work, Dremel works great also but the disc's are rather spendy. I like the idea of twisting them off and one other way if you have a stick welder you can short the bolt using 75 amps. Before you turn on the welder get a good ground then clamp the hot end to the bolt or nut in question and turn it on and you will have to be the judge as to the time on shut it off and turn the bolt or nut loose, this is the same principle used to un freeze pipes. When all is said and done I like Kroil, squirt it on and hit the bolt or nut hard with a dead blow and wait a day.
I used to play with tractors and found the best way to un stick a motor is to fill the cyl with brake fluid mixed with kero, take an Oak 4x4 and grind it round put it in a cyl and at the same time use a large iron bar with a socket on the crank with a couple friends putting constant pressure on it while you move the log from one cyl to the next, have yet to bend a rod or crack a piston.

[Rusty Homestead Fl]

Are they spinning or is it you don't have the strength to turn them. (No disrespect ma'am) They're just nuts and bolts. Do as others have said and tighten them til they break off. You should be using at least one socket wrench for the leverage end. You may have to use a pipe over the handle to get more leverage--longer the better. Replacement nuts/bolts can be had at any hardware store. Wear some gloves because when they break your knuckles might also. lol Hang in there. You'll get it. I hope they're making the replacement battery box better than they used to. Holes didn't line up on mine.

[BetsyModelA]

Thank you, one and all, for your interest, excellent suggestions, and encouragment. Once again, my mechanical hero, midgetracer, is coming - quite a distance - to not just remove those stubborn nuts, but also, to start Betsy. The snow is beginning to threaten us here in ND. He is as enthused about getting Betsy started as I am. I'll continue to keep you in-the-know. Thank you again. Betsy

[Tom Wesenberg]

That's good news, as I'm also anxious to hear that it's running.
Don't throw away the old battery frame, as it might be better to use the mounts and uprights with a new bottom.

[BetsyModelA]

Tom, Good advice. I am keeping all the parts okay. Like Rusty's concern for the holes not lining up right, I'm holding my breathe to see what else can go wrong. Hopefully, my next entry will be full of happy news.

[BetsyModelA]

I apologize, Rusty. I neglected to answer your question about the nut that won't come off. You asked if it spins. Actually, I have two nuts to remove, one 1/2 inch bolt with a 1/2 nut on the underside of the pickup frame. The bolt turns with the attached nut holding steadfast turning with it. I need to remove that one so it is easier to get at the one that has to come off in order to remove the broken battery box. That is a 9/16 nut attached solid to a bolt. It looks like this side of the battery box has a long (about 2 inches long) bolt on top going through the frame of the pickup to about an inch on the underside. I believe if I remove that 9/16 nut, the bolt will come out of its hole, allowing me to remove that side of the battery box. I removed the broken left-front corner part of the old box. This troublesome one is the right-back part. This battery box is not a "box" at all. Rather it has a u shape with four sided metal strips holding the battery in place. This "box" is fastened down at the top of each tip of the u. Wished I had a picture of it. "Worth a thouand words."

[BetsyModelA]

"Betsy is Alive!!!" These are the very words of Betsy's miracle-worker, midgetracer.
Today, is a day I'm marking on the calendar as the day Betsy came back to life.
Yes, she poured out billows of smoke as the motor turned over, the starter engaged, and with a flow of gasoline for her life-blood Betsy hummed the sound that only a Model A can give. She sang her song loud and clear so happy to be running again.
Just goes to show, we have experts available at all ages, in all walks of life, ready to share their talents and appreciation of the classical auto giving of themselves just for the joy of it. Midgetracer had a few challenges in today's success, but a few hurdles didn't deter his mission. My deepest gratitude in sticking in there with me, and Betsy. May others with similar challenges reap the sweet reward we are enjoying today. I still remember how to work the clutch.

[Mitch//pa]

thats fabulous news enjoy that music .
thankyou again midgetracer its people like you that make this hobby great.. job well done