What's it worth? 1966 Comet

[1EarlyA]

I have owned a number of Fords, but have never really been a "Ford guy". Consequently, my knowledge is pretty much limited to the specific Ford products I have owned.


I went and looked at a 1966 Comet Cyclone GT today. It was a pretty nice car. But, it needed enough little stuff here and there I decided I didn't want to make a deal until I knew a little more.


I have no idea if it is a genuine GT or not... if someone can enlighten me how to tell, I'm all ears.

Car was originally silvery blue with a black interior. It has been painted black now with the exception of a few minor scratches and 2 or 3 small bubbles, it looks very good. The bubbles are very small(BB size) and don't appear to be rust... yet anyway. They look more like moisture has gotten in between the paint and the primer. Body is not 100% perfect but looks pretty straight... especially for a black car. 95% of people would say the body looks great. It has had the bottom of one quarter behind the wheel replaced and a couple patches on the inner rockers/trunk floor extensions.
The floor has a couple of dents in it. They're not deep(maybe only pushed in 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch. The worst thing bodywise is that the car appears to have sat in a damp environment at some point since it was redone and there is rust starting here and there on the floor/trunk pans. It is not bad at this point. I'm sure it could all be cleaned up with one of the Roloc scotchbrite wheels.
One tail light lens has a crack. and the tail light bezels are pretty hazy, but not broken or bumpy. The rest of the chrome is pretty good.

The interior appears to be original(with the possible exception of the headliner and carpet. It has buckets and a console. The console is broke on the drivers side below the chrome trim. The driver's seat is slightly broken down. But, not bad. Upholstery is all good. All dash lights work except one signal indicator. Aftermarket stereo in the glove box.

Glass looks good.

As I said, I am not sure if it was originally a Cyclone GT. It is currently a non-numbers matching 390 with a 4 speed. Motor had a ton of work when they restored the car years ago. I can't recall all the specs, but I'll relay what I can. It's got a not huge but decent aftermarket cam. Can't remember the code on the heads, but according to the builder they were factory performance/desireable heads, Pertonix guts in a Ford 428(?) distributor, Ford aluminum intake(also from a 428 I believe), aftermarket 4bbl carb. Dual exhaust. 3.89 open rear end. Radiator didn't leak when I looked at the car, but has a small area with that green corrosion that would indicate it has leaked at some point.


Also, as a point of reference, this guy will work with me some on price, but he doesn't really care much if he sells it or not... he was actually responded to a wanted ad I had placed for a 50s to 70s car with a 4 speed.


So, what do you guys think is a fair price?

[mercman from oz]

1966 Mercury Cyclone GT - from the Original Sales Brochure

[KULTULZ]

I went and looked at a 1966 Comet Cyclone GT today. It was a pretty nice car. But, it needed enough little stuff here and there I decided I didn't want to make a deal until I knew a little more.

I have no idea if it is a genuine GT or not... if someone can enlighten me how to tell, I'm all ears.

First, can you get a photo of the PATENT PLATE?

And Read This - https://www.martiauto.com/faqfocus.cfm?qid=246

[Ford Freak]

They are a good looking car! Some may call those chrome reverse hubcaps "cheezy", but I have always liked them. If I had a Comet, that is what I would have on it. JMO - F F

[1EarlyA]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

First, can you get a photo of the PATENT PLATE?

And Read This - https://www.martiauto.com/faqfocus.cfm?qid=246

I assume you mean the plate that is on the driver's door? I took two pictures of that when I looked at the car and neither one of them is legible. GRRR. Guess I should have checked after I took them instead of just assuming they would be ok.

[1EarlyA]

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It's packed in pretty tight so I couldn't get any good pics yesterday. But, these are a couple the owner sent me initially. Outside of the wheels, tach and a couple maintenance items under the hood it is pretty stock appearing.

[1EarlyA]

How much price difference does it make if this car was born a regular Comet as opposed to a Cyclone?

I ask because the current owner says that he was told this is a real Cyclone but that it had a 289 in it. To my knowledge those things can't both be accurate. Makes me wonder if this was a plain Comet originally? Or if the 390 had been puked and replaced with a 289 when the previous owner got it?

[56sedandelivery]

Vin number should tell you which engine it came with. If not the 390, not the GT.

[mercman from oz]

Pictures of the 1966 Mercury Cyclone GT that 1EarlyA is looking at.

[KULTULZ]

Ford aluminum intake (also from a 428 I believe) ...

Along with this - POSSIBLE FIBERGLASS HOOD



Brother, you may have stumbled across something. I would be very casual (as he shows little interest) and get the PATENT PLATE INFO. Without that (if original to the car), it is all a guessing game.



1966 MERCURY COMET OPTION INFO -

http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/stati...e/image16.html

[1EarlyA]

Originally Posted by 56sedandelivery

Vin number should tell you which engine it came with. If not the 390, not the GT.

I've been trying to figure out the VIN. But, the site I've found appears to be incorrect or incomplete.

The motor code on this car is S which I know would be correct if it were a '67-up Mustang. But, the site I've found with Comet info doesn't even list an S.

FYI the Comet decoding page I'm looking at is here https://www.oldride.com/library/1966_mercury_comet.html

[1EarlyA]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Along with this - POSSIBLE FIBERGLASS HOOD

Brother, you may have stumbled across something. I would be very casual (as he shows little interest) and get the PATENT PLATE INFO. Without that (if original to the car), it is all a guessing game.



1966 MERCURY COMET OPTION INFO -

http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/stati...e/image16.html

"if original" is exactly the problem. I don't have any idea how to tell if the plate is original or not. Also, I would think the chances of it being non-original would be higher than average since I've read that removing/replacing this plate is not a crime.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 1EarlyA

"if original" is exactly the problem. I don't have any idea how to tell if the plate is original or not. Also, I would think the chances of it being non-original would be higher than average since I've read that removing/replacing this plate is not a crime.

If the car is OEM BUILT, it will have a greater value than if it has been modified. You can compare the VIN on the plate to various VIN STAMPINGS/BUCK TAG on the vehicle.

It is not illegal to change DATA on the PLATE other than the factory VIN. It is not ethical (IMO) but PLATE REPRODUCERS seem to have little concern doing it. And then there is the con artist that will swap plates and/or salvage titles.

There are sources that will give you a car's value. But if the car is not what is stated, you can be taken advantage of easily ($$$).

If you just want a driver and have little concern of originality, then that is a different story.

[KULTULZ]

HAGERTY -

I don't know if the SEARCH will show, but it values a CLEAN CAR as $26,900.

https://www.hagerty.com/valuation-to...cyclone%2520gt

[1EarlyA]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

HAGERTY -

I don't know if the SEARCH will show, but it values a CLEAN CAR as $26,900.

https://www.hagerty.com/valuation-to...cyclone%2520gt

Don't know why I didn't think of Hagerty. That's usually my go to when I start trying to estimate value. Thanks

[1EarlyA]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

If the car is OEM BUILT, it will have a greater value than if it has been modified. You can compare the VIN on the plate to various VIN STAMPINGS/BUCK TAG on the vehicle.

Where do I find other stampings to compare?

[pj's junkers]

S should be correct for 390 that is what others are showing

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 1EarlyA

Where do I find other stampings to compare?

You really need that PATENT PLATE INFO as the ID STAMPINGS may vary as to DISTRICT and ASSEMBLY PLANT.

All begins with that and a clear title.

[dmsfrr]

The info on the Patent Plate (if original) will tell you which engine the car left the factory with.

You should also attempt to confirm which engine is in the car now as almost any previous owner / mechanic / car flipper could have changed it, given the number of decades since the car was new.
Different families of engines had their block casting ID numbers in different places.

[1EarlyA]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

The info on the Patent Plate (if original) will tell you which engine the car left the factory with.

You should also attempt to confirm which engine is in the car now as almost any previous owner / mechanic / car flipper could have changed it, given the number of decades since the car was new.
Different families of engines had their block casting ID numbers in different places.

It's a 390 currently. But, the guy was right up front and said it is not the original engine. The rearend, or at least the center may be from another car as well(It is currently a 3.89 open).