Block leak help, Lending a hand!!!

[rockfla]

Posting for a fellow barner needing advice on a 59A block leak...
"working on a 59 block and so far found a leak from pressure testing (where tape is).I was hoping when you get some time you would post it on the barn to see if it can be repaired and the best way."

[Zeke3]

That looks like a good application for J B Weld or similar material. Your friend should read through all the suggestions offered on another recent post.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294252

[G.M.]

Barr's stop leak with copper particals has stopped any leaks
I have had. G.M.

[Tim Ayers]

Having a block with a similar crack, some old timers suggested to TIG weld it, but others said that area is pretty thin and epoxy is a better solution. I was in a position to find another block. My crack was approximately 8" long and it ran along right at that casting parting line.

[Bored&Stroked]

If you can get a drill into the location, consider drilling it, using a special tap and put in IronTite cast iron plugs. It looks like an area that I could get into - so it is probably not a big deal to fix it this way.

[Tim Ayers]

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

If you can get a drill into the location, consider drilling it, using a special tap and put in IronTite cast iron plugs. It looks like an area that I could get into - so it is probably not a big deal to fix it this way.

I could be wrong, but don't those plugs work by over lapping them and then cutting them off and then peening them over one another? Might be tough to get in there to do all that. I also believe that part of the casting is pretty thin, so getting enough thread may be an issue.

Just a thought.

[Jacques1960]

If under pressure, braze or nickle weld might be preferable to hardware store epoxy fix; if cost is not a concern, technical epoxies might be an option.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Jacques1960

If under pressure, braze or nickle weld might be preferable to hardware store epoxy fix; if cost is not a concern, technical epoxies might be an option.

What are technical epoxies?? G.M.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by G.M.

What are technical epoxies?? G.M.

I'm assuming products made by companies such as Belzona and others who make scenario specific epoxies.

For example: Belzona makes an epoxy that is designed to fix a leaking gas/oil pipe.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I could be wrong, but don't those plugs work by over lapping them and then cutting them off and then peening them over one another? Might be tough to get in there to do all that. I also believe that part of the casting is pretty thin, so getting enough thread may be an issue.

Just a thought.

Tim the plugs break off as they tighten to there designed torque. They are like a cast iron pipe plug. Other than asthetics you don’t need to grind them @ don’t need to peen them. This repair would never be seen with intake on so just leave as is no grinding. I have repaired many cracks with this system. I put red loctite on plugs. Have had great success with them.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Tim the plugs break off as they tighten to there designed torque. They are like a cast iron pipe plug. Other than asthetics you don’t need to grind them @ don’t need to peen them. This repair would never be seen with intake on so just leave as is no grinding. I have repaired many cracks with this system. I put red loctite on plugs. Have had great success with them.

I'm with Tony . . . this is the method that I would consider (as long as I can get a drill into the location). If you can drill it, you can probably fix it with this method and I'd have confidence in it holding. If you happen to have any sort of slight weeping afterwards, just use Moroso water glass to seal it from the inside (follow the directions closely!).

[flathead48]

Thanks for all the reply’s, I have had trouble logging in for couple of days so could not respond. The picture shows #3 cylinder in between lifter bore same problem with # 7 cylinder except cracks are in area behind wher intake valve spring would be and goes horizontal almost all the way to top. Not sure , without more cleaning and de rusting if more cracks on inside. Future leaks in that area would put coolant in oil. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by flathead48

Thanks for all the reply’s, I have had trouble logging in for couple of days so could not respond. The picture shows #3 cylinder in between lifter bore same problem with # 7 cylinder except cracks are in area behind wher intake valve spring would be and goes horizontal almost all the way to top. Not sure , without more cleaning and de rusting if more cracks on inside. Future leaks in that area would put coolant in oil. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help

If that is the case, I'd probably consider it a "dead dog" . . . and not try to use it. It most likely has freeze damage and who knows the other places that cracks may have started - and not yet progressed enough to leak. At the very least, mag it and pressure test it . . . before "investing" in it.

If it was me, I'd find another block and be able to sleep at night . . .

[woodiedude]

I recently took my 59a block to a machine shop that primarily rebuilds Ford and Chevy Engines to get it acid dipped and magnafluxed. The shop told me the block was junk and he would not be able to repair the block. I loaded the "junk" block in my van and took it to Mike at H&H Flatheads. Mike took a quick look and said it would not be a problem to fix the crack and the repairs are being done as we speak. I am not sure if he will braze, weld, or use epoxy the crack but he will stand behind it with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty. I contracted Mike to build a complete running engine for me because I felt good about his reputation and his honesty. The engine is scheduled to be completed much sooner than I had anticipated.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by woodiedude

I recently took my 59a block to a machine shop that primarily rebuilds Ford and Chevy Engines to get it acid dipped and magnafluxed. The shop told me the block was junk and he would not be able to repair the block. I loaded the "junk" block in my van and took it to Mike at H&H Flatheads. Mike took a quick look and said it would not be a problem to fix the crack and the repairs are being done as we speak. I am not sure if he will braze, weld, or use epoxy the crack but he will stand behind it with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty. I contracted Mike to build a complete running engine for me because I felt good about his reputation and his honesty. The engine is scheduled to be completed much sooner than I had anticipated.

Would be nice to know what type of issues and cracks it actually had? Yes - you can repair a lot of them, but you can also invest a lot of money into the build - so it is a "risk versus reward" situation. My issue is that I tend to put a lot of money and even more of my TIME into my builds - I can't afford to throw away countless hours of work because of a crack repair that did not stand the test of time. With that said, there are some situations where a crack can be fixed, a sleeve put in and you're good to go (if done correctly) - there are other places where it isn't worth the risk (like pan rails).

[flathead48]

B & S , I agree with you 100% flatheads are to expensive to build. I am going to try to get the valve chamber sand blasted to get a better look. I don’t know how common it is for blocks to crack inside the valve chamber but I was surprised.

[KiWinUS]

Dye penetrant check kit is a very good tool for finding cracks in cast iron.

[marko39]

Originally Posted by flathead48

B & S , I agree with you 100% flatheads are to expensive to build. I am going to try to get the valve chamber sand blasted to get a better look. I don’t know how common it is for blocks to crack inside the valve chamber but I was surprised.

I would stay away from any media blasting as the crap gets in everywhere and is a bitch to remove it all. (If you can).

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flathead48

B & S , I agree with you 100% flatheads are to expensive to build. I am going to try to get the valve chamber sand blasted to get a better look. I don’t know how common it is for blocks to crack inside the valve chamber but I was surprised.

Cracks inside the valley are most likely a flaw in the casting. If you look real close, you can see a casting parting line that runs from front to back.

Sadly, I have two that did not hold pressure in that area when tested. Sure glad I found out before moving forward. From what I gather, that part of the block is really thin.

[flathead48]

Tim, I do see the line you are referring to. Thanks