EZ-Steer Tie Rod Bushings

[Robert/Texas]

I would like to replace the tie rod bushings with EZ-steer ones. Is there any way to do this without removing the backing plates? The car already has EZ-steer bushings on the draglink ends.
Thanks, Robert

[Marshall V. Daut]

Yes. Put the front end on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Turn the steering wheel to one extreme until it bottoms out. Take out the cotter pin in that side of the tie rod and back out the end plug until it bottoms out against the backing plate. Then turn the steering wheel to the opposite extreme and repeat the procedure. You don't need to actually remove the plugs from the tie rod ends. Just back them out as far as you can. Then take a pry bar between the tie rod and the steering arm and pop off the tie rod. It'll come off with a little pressure.
After putting in the new Teflon seats and springs, simply press the tie rod ends over the steering balls, and tighten the plugs until you can just barely rock the tie rod with your hand. That's about the mythical recommended 25% spring compression. Be sure to cotter pin the ends! Also, re-check the toe-in setting.
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

By the way, you might be able to get a little extra room at each extreme if you first remove the long king pin retaining nut on the backside of the axle. This serves to stop the turning radius before the tires hit the brake rods. With these two tall nuts removed, you will increase the radius travel slightly, enough to help you with this procedure.
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

Although it should be intuitively obvious, I should have also mentioned that when the tie rod is off, that's the time to start the new end plugs, not once the rod has been placed back over the steering balls. Just start the new end plugs enough for them to grab a few threads inside the ends. Then there will be no tension on the springs and the ends can be pushed down over the steering balls.
O.K. Enough advice. On with the repair!
Marshall

[Robert/Texas]

Thanks Marshall, I'll get to it as soon as the rain lets me. I especially like the idea of removing the kingpin retaining nuts.

[Jason in TX]

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Just curious about these teflon cups. Do you grease them also? Seems like a super slick improvement!

[Marshall V. Daut]

Judicious greasing NEVER hurts.
Marshall

[larrys40]

Robert... I do these all the time and this is the way to do it... makes it easy and you can change them out on the bench as an assembly.

Remove the steering arm nuts ( they are on the front side of the spindle as you look at the front of the car. You will have to take a drift and tap out the steering arms out of the spindles but they should come easy. Before you do that remove the steering arm at the sector (steering box) and the arm, drag link, and tie rod with arms attached will come out as an assembly out the drivers side.,

For the life of me I can't figure out why folks try and take the end plugs out with the backing plates on them. you can't ever really do an effective job and make sure things are tightened correctly and fully as they should be. If you do it as an assembly you can do it right on the bench and make sure all is rotating properly with each joint tight and cottered right on the bench. Reinstall in reverse order, tighten the steering arm nuts and cotter key when tight. Make sure the steering arm flats/bosses bottom out as they should on the spindles... these need to be tight!!! so use your long arm and a half inch drive socket. I can remove them all in less than 10 minutes and you will spend much more time fiddling with end plugs at backing plates.

Of course you will have to do a toe in alignment when all done as the dimensions have changes with the tie rod end plug adjustments. A little grease will help insure they operate smoothly... If your steering arm balls are worn replace the arms with rebuilt units from A&L.

I make doing these standard procedure, I have done well over 100 of them...
Larry Shepard

[Robert/Texas]

Thanks again Marshall and thanks Larry.
I started on the job before I read Larry’s post. It was easy to do as the plugs came off (barely) without using a pry bar or anything. It was even easier to install the new parts as the new plugs are just a little thinner than the original type. The only problem (minor) that I had was that the groove in one of the plugs was a little offset from center so it took a work to get the cotter pin in.
Great help, Robert

[redmodelt]

While the tie rod is off it's a good time to inspect the balls on the steering arms. If they are worn to football shapes, no amount of new parts will help the steering. They should be "ROUND", all of them. Rebuilt steering arms are a cheap investment in safety and can be replaced on the car.

[Robert/Texas]

Thanks redmodelt.
I had both steering arms rebuilt by Brattons about 10 or 15 years ago. I've put around 2500 miles on the car since then. The three steering arm balls look and feel good to me. The car has always been easy to steer but I wanted it to steer even easier due to my age (82) and a badly damaged right shoulder cuff.
Robert

[redmodelt]

You might think about putting on a short pitman arm. It would do more to help ease the steering then the plastic cups for the tie rod. They are not that expensive. (if you don't have one)

[Robert/Texas]

Thanks redmodelt. I'm thinking about ordering when I need some other items.
Robert