The Ford Barn

George, Iowa · 01-04-2013, 07:30 PM

I had trouble getting my oil pan in to a newly restored car. It was an extremely tight fit. I had to take off my pulley just to get the front two bolts in. It was so tight against the front crossmember I couldn't get my socket on the bolt. Picture is of the oil pan and how the socket only goes so far.

My pan is on now...but I just wanted to know if something else is wrong in my restoration or is this normal?!

Thanks

700rpm · 01-04-2013, 07:39 PM

Are you using a 3/8" drive or a 1/2" drive? 3/8" should fit up there OK.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 01-04-2013, 08:35 PM

George,
Our's was easy, and we're not "magic"! Could your engine maybe too low in the front????? Or maybe loosen the 4 big rear motor mount bolts and see if the engine can be scooted back a little. Bill W.

MAG · 01-04-2013, 08:41 PM

One of my Model A's has the same problem. Many years ago the car was in an accident requiring the front crossmember to be replaced. The replacement crossmember is a little "fat" in the access area for the front oil pan bolts. I cut screwdriver slots in the bolts to eliminate access problems. Has caused no trouble or leaks.

Roadster Rich · 01-04-2013, 10:33 PM

I concur with Ray's answer. My good quality 1/2 inch sockets will not work for these bolts. However for these two I use a cheap 3/8 inch drive "Huskey" socket set and they are thin enough wall thickness to get in and grab the bolts.

George, Iowa · 01-04-2013, 10:56 PM

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My 3/8 inch drive will not come close to the bolt. I think MAG is on to something. My front cross member has been replaced. It must be a thicker cross member.

Curt Campbell · 01-04-2013, 11:30 PM

George...I am thrilled you are getting more done on your A. Are you going to join me with mine next summer when mine is done??? I HOPE SO

redmodelt · 01-04-2013, 11:45 PM

Using a long piece of all thread that is large enough diameter that will fit through the starter crank hole and into the recess in the starter ratchet. Cut it long enough to weld a nut on the end where it sticks out so you can put a wrench on it. Insert the all thread with nut into the hole, before sliding into the ratchet place a couple of washers and a nut on. Turn the nut and washers making contact with the engine side of the crank guide. Holding the outside nut with one wrench turn the inside nut. This will push the motor back so you can use your sockets to get to the bolts. You may need to loosen the rear bolts on the motor mount.

Marco Tahtaras · 01-05-2013, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George, Iowa

My 3/8 inch drive will not come close to the bolt. I think MAG is on to something. My front cross member has been replaced. It must be a thicker cross member.

How does your hood fit? Your pic is too small to be certain of any details but it appeared to me to be a ribbed cross member meaning it's a '28 cross member. These had different rivet hole spacing than the later cross members. If the wrong reference hole was used then it may be out of position.

George, Iowa · 01-05-2013, 09:46 AM

Curt, I wish I was running down the road with you this summer. I am between semesters right now and working on my A. School starts back up soon and the Model A will have to be mothballed again.

George, Iowa · 01-05-2013, 09:48 AM

The body is not on the car. So it sounds like hood/body fit will determine if I need to move the motor backwards. Great ideas guys! I love this website.

Purdy Swoft · 01-05-2013, 10:08 AM

Float A motor rear mounts will cause this problem. The whole drive train will have a tendency to float. Some love it.

George, Iowa · 01-05-2013, 10:15 AM

Purdy, I have the Float A Motor...makes sense now that you point it out.

V4F · 01-05-2013, 11:29 AM

my biggest trouble is getting the pan plug to seal . leaks thru the threads i believe

1931 flamingo · 01-05-2013, 11:32 AM

1/4" drive

Paul in CT

Purdy Swoft · 01-05-2013, 11:40 AM

Are you sure that the leak is from the plug ? Many times a bad fit at the rear pan seal will cause oil to run down the oil pan and collect around the drain plug . If oil is leaking around the threads of the plug, I would put some high tack permatex sealer on the threads of the plug, before installation.

Tom Wesenberg · 01-05-2013, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V4F

my biggest trouble is getting the pan plug to seal . leaks thru the threads i believe

The copper ring, not the threads, do the sealing. A new copper gasket should fix the problem.

01-04-2013, 07:39 PM	#2
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,903	Re: Oil Pan fit? Are you using a 3/8" drive or a 1/2" drive? 3/8" should fit up there OK. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

01-04-2013, 08:35 PM	#3
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Oil Pan fit? George, Our's was easy, and we're not "magic"! Could your engine maybe too low in the front????? Or maybe loosen the 4 big rear motor mount bolts and see if the engine can be scooted back a little. Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

01-04-2013, 08:41 PM	#4
MAG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 925	Re: Oil Pan fit? One of my Model A's has the same problem. Many years ago the car was in an accident requiring the front crossmember to be replaced. The replacement crossmember is a little "fat" in the access area for the front oil pan bolts. I cut screwdriver slots in the bolts to eliminate access problems. Has caused no trouble or leaks. __________________ I noticed the harder I work the luckier I get!

01-04-2013, 10:33 PM	#5
Roadster Rich Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alpharetta, Georgia (Atlanta) Posts: 272	Re: Oil Pan fit? I concur with Ray's answer. My good quality 1/2 inch sockets will not work for these bolts. However for these two I use a cheap 3/8 inch drive "Huskey" socket set and they are thin enough wall thickness to get in and grab the bolts.

01-04-2013, 10:56 PM	#6
George, Iowa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ames, Iowa Posts: 133	Re: Oil Pan fit? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) My 3/8 inch drive will not come close to the bolt. I think MAG is on to something. My front cross member has been replaced. It must be a thicker cross member.

01-04-2013, 11:30 PM	#7
Curt Campbell Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ottumwa, IA Posts: 308	Re: Oil Pan fit? George...I am thrilled you are getting more done on your A. Are you going to join me with mine next summer when mine is done??? I HOPE SO

01-04-2013, 11:45 PM	#8
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: Oil Pan fit? Using a long piece of all thread that is large enough diameter that will fit through the starter crank hole and into the recess in the starter ratchet. Cut it long enough to weld a nut on the end where it sticks out so you can put a wrench on it. Insert the all thread with nut into the hole, before sliding into the ratchet place a couple of washers and a nut on. Turn the nut and washers making contact with the engine side of the crank guide. Holding the outside nut with one wrench turn the inside nut. This will push the motor back so you can use your sockets to get to the bolts. You may need to loosen the rear bolts on the motor mount.

01-05-2013, 09:46 AM	#10
George, Iowa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ames, Iowa Posts: 133	Re: Oil Pan fit? Curt, I wish I was running down the road with you this summer. I am between semesters right now and working on my A. School starts back up soon and the Model A will have to be mothballed again.

01-05-2013, 09:48 AM	#11
George, Iowa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ames, Iowa Posts: 133	Re: Oil Pan fit? The body is not on the car. So it sounds like hood/body fit will determine if I need to move the motor backwards. Great ideas guys! I love this website.

01-05-2013, 10:08 AM	#12
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Oil Pan fit? Float A motor rear mounts will cause this problem. The whole drive train will have a tendency to float. Some love it.

01-05-2013, 10:15 AM	#13
George, Iowa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ames, Iowa Posts: 133	Re: Oil Pan fit? Purdy, I have the Float A Motor...makes sense now that you point it out.

01-05-2013, 11:29 AM	#14
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	Re: Oil Pan fit? my biggest trouble is getting the pan plug to seal . leaks thru the threads i believe __________________ V4f

01-05-2013, 11:32 AM	#15
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Oil Pan fit? 1/4" drive Paul in CT

01-05-2013, 11:40 AM	#16
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Oil Pan fit? Are you sure that the leak is from the plug ? Many times a bad fit at the rear pan seal will cause oil to run down the oil pan and collect around the drain plug . If oil is leaking around the threads of the plug, I would put some high tack permatex sealer on the threads of the plug, before installation.