Hard to start cold

[TradModelA]

Hello , I'm having problems with cold starts, its so bad that I've run down the battery trying to turn it over. Once it does start, it only will run on the choke for a few miles. Any help appreciated. Thanks

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[31Tudor]

So once it warms up it runs fine?

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by TradModelA

Hello , I'm having problems with cold starts, its so bad that I've run down the battery trying to turn it over. Once it does start, it only will run on the choke for a few miles. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Hot or cold, a Model A engine that has everything adjusted right will start after you hear the starter compress just a few cylinders (woomp-woomp-woomp-fire) or less.

Are you opening the GAV on the cold engine about 3/4 to 1 turn open? That will give it a richer mixture to help run cold. As it warms up, slowly close the GAV in small turns. If you close it too much, the engine will tell you (start to sputter). End up with GAV about 1/4 turn open on some cars, fully closed on other cars. You have to experiment.

Confirm you don't have any vacuum leaks where the intake manifold bolts to the engine block, and where the carb bolts to the intake manifold.

How long has it been since you have blown out the jets and passages in the lower carb body with some carb cleaner and compressed air? It is easy for rust or crud to block a passage and make the carb run too lean.

Check your ignition point gap; it should be 0.020". If too far off, you get a weak spark that will have a harder time igniting the fuel.

How old is the gas? Left over from summer? If so, replace with fresh "winter gas" for easier starting.

Let us know how you end up.

[Y-Blockhead]

My Town Sedan has always been easy to start but once the "Cold Weather" sets in (Oopee, SoCal, right?? ) it started to get grumpy in the mornings. I just open the GAV ~1/2 to 3/4 more and it fires right up.

Maybe yours just needs a little more gas too!

[TradModelA]

Thanks guys, I have a confession to make about a month ago I swapped to a stromberg 97 downdraft, but the symptoms were similar before with the Zenith. And yes , it runs fine once it's good and warm. Makes me think it might be points related since symptoms were same?

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[DougVieyra]

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I am waiting for some good solutions to your query regarding non-starting with your Stromberg 97 carburetor. That is what is keeping my '31 Dlx Coupe from running. It does eventually start when I 'shoot some juice' into the carb., and runs fine.

The Stromberg 97 Carb. was completely rebuilt about a year ago, and it ran fine for about 10 months, but now has developed this non-start issue. I have given up and bought a NEW English-made Stromberg 97 and am sure that my 'issues' will go away. But I have not yet installed it, so am curious to hear what will be said about your non-starting Stromberg 97.

[Y-Blockhead]

Well, Dangit... You need to add a couple more 97's like I did on my '55 Ranchwagon. That should cure it.

[CarlG]

What are you guys using for air cleaners on your 97's?

[TradModelA]

Vintage speed makes the old Edmonds air cleaners.

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[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Well, Dangit... You need to add a couple more 97's like I did on my '55 Ranchwagon. That should cure it.

Now that looks nice !

[mshmodela]

Seems to me (this newbie) that chocking creates more suction of fuel.. If you need to keep it chocked then it might be your jets are not providing enough fuel there by chocking to get more in... Maybe jets are somewhat blocked

http://modelabasics.com/carb%20basics%202.htm

[Patrick L.]

I'm wondering what the starting procedure is. The engine should start easily if everything is as it should be. The 97 has an accelerator pump so fuel shouldn't be an issue.

[TradModelA]

Patrick, I agree, could it be the idle mixture needing adjustment? Also, does anyone have a link to a points replacement / adjustment procedure here? Did a quick search and not much came up. Thanks

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[C26Pinelake]

Hard to start when cold ? Just like any lady, not only Henry's ! Wayne

[Patrick L.]

Adjustment of points is the same regardless of engine, and there has been much mentioned about it. But, as the distributor cam/shaft is turned until the the high point of the cam opens the points to the highest/greatest opening then the gap is to be measured and adjusted to .020" [ .018-.022"]

I'm also wondering what else has been changed/altered that we don't know about, such as, distributor, timing cover, etc.

[TradModelA]

Stock other than a downdraft carb /intake and tube header.

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[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by TradModelA

Stock other than s downdraft and tube header.

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Hardly stock then ! Wayne

[katy]

could it be the idle mixture needing adjustment?

IIRC, INITIAL setting on a '97 should be 1&1/4 to 1&1/2 turns open, both needles the same, adjust as necessary after warmed up.

[Pinesdune]

Stupid questions: A- I take it your compression is good? B- You're running the right "heat" of spark plug? How does the gas get to your new carb, is it free flow or pressurised (I'm guessing pressurized) and is there the chance it bleeds back on you and "once it warms up" it has restored working pressure? It only takes four things to make an engine run, suck-push-bang-blow, one isn't working right.

[TradModelA]

Actually it is still gravity fed. That could be part of my issue.