The Ford Barn

Redpond2 · 05-16-2022, 08:13 PM

Hello All,

Would like to introduce myself as the resident noob. I am fairly competent, mechanically, when looking at 90's model vehicles and newer. Beings that I am under 30 and I have just recently acquired my first antique, I am coming across a lot of tech that I simply have no prior understanding of. Fair warning for some likely seemingly goofball questions.

On to the truck itself.. been on the hunt for a few months. looked at a rough 31 slant window fordor. knew, then, I wanted a truck. facebook would have me traveling all over the US if it had its way; eating lunch with a friend he gave me a number of a guy who may have an A/AA for sale. call, get pics, realize its not an AA, rather a 32-34 BB w/ dump bed and its clean, and within my budget. long story short I picked it up thursday 5/12/22 and verified it is a 32' BB with the firewall being bolted to cab rather than riveted

I got it wedged into my small garage/shop and start the inspect/diagnose this weekend. radiator holds water, plenty of acorns in the head so I remove it for cleaning and removed pan to look at babbitts and check condition. pistons show "STD" and cylinder walls look new. At this point the consensus is the original engine was replaced with a factory ford replacement, which production stopped 1941? nonetheless. internals are immaculate. really dodged a bullet there. everything is free by hand turning, valves a little sticky but got some 50/50 on them so free the guides up some.

my current questions:

wheels; I need to find at least 2, to get it back as a dually, anyone have some for sale?

I'm missing quite a bit in the interior. first things are gauges, seat bottoms and back. good resources?

literature!! I am having a difficult time finding online literature that pertains to this particular model. Everything is A specific or V8 B. ANY help in this arena would be greatly appreciated. I am a reader and want this thing together mostly correct.

Goals for this truck are still in the making. I want it running/stopping under its own power, first and foremost. beyond that I am unsure if I am going to leave the rusty/red Patina or paint it. Have no intention of making this a show truck at this time. if my intention changes, that will be determined further down the road depending on budget and how much effort I am willing to put into it.

I have been reading on Sugarmakers thread on a very similar truck, Very cool and insightful.

DavidG- I notice you seem to have a good lead on literature, from that aforementioned thread. any specific recommendations?

anyway; enough with the monologue. enjoy the pictures, I look forward to any help given.

Heres another noob question; forum related.. what format do I upload pictures that allow a description on each individual picture? TIA

Kube · 05-16-2022, 08:21 PM

Welcome aboard!
Your truck is cool! Me? I'd leave the patina.

You'll find there is one resident '32 GURU, David, here on the barn. Listen to the man's advice

Newc · 05-16-2022, 08:25 PM

Lube the door hinges real well-avoid breaking doors. Don't worry about wheels-they will show up. Lots of good parts there. Burned '32 came home. Newc

Redpond2 · 05-16-2022, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Newc

Lube the door hinges real well-avoid breaking doors. Don't worry about wheels-they will show up. Lots of good parts there. Newc

Door hinge pins are currently nails.. one of the long list of things to replace. do have a broken striker/ male end of door latch. so that will likely be replaced.

current goal is to get engine running via auxiliary fuel tank.

then work my way to brakes and interior to get on the road. then to wheels, dump bed, etc.

Redpond2 · 05-16-2022, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kube

Welcome aboard!
Your truck is cool! Me? I'd leave the patina.

You'll find there is one resident '32 GURU, David, here on the barn. Listen to the man's advice

I saw him giving fine wisdom on Sugarmakers thread. Hoping to get some wisdom from him as well.

currently keep a tab open with sugamakers thread up at all times. haven't caught up to even this year yet but already learning a lot from that one and DavidG seems to be the one I keep looking back on for solid advice given, repeatedly. looking forward to any info he can give.

(likely leaving it patina) its in such good shape though I don't want to put that in stone just yet.

cmbrucew · 05-16-2022, 09:37 PM

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Congratulations Redpond
Welcome to the fordbarn. Very nice truck
What part of this country do you call home?
Bruce

petehoovie · 05-16-2022, 09:41 PM

[QUOTE=Redpond2;2130199 enough with the monologue. enjoy the pictures, I look forward to any help given.[/QUOTE]

cas3 · 05-16-2022, 09:52 PM

By golly, you and Sugar Maker are gonna be good friends ! cool truck, welcome to the barn !

Bob C · 05-16-2022, 10:03 PM

Great looking truck. It's hard to tell in the pictures but it looks like the cylinders
may have bee sleeved back to STD.

GB SISSON · 05-16-2022, 10:04 PM

A hearty welcome to you Redpond! I'm a real fan of the bigger trucks and have a lot of history with them, including hauling home a surface rust red '32 AA when I was in my early 40's. Seeing your photos was like deja-vu all over again. Can't wait to follow your progress, and what an amazing engine that thing has! Holy crap. And yes, what state are you in?

DavidG · 05-16-2022, 10:31 PM

Hi Redpond,

Welcome to the barn. As you likely gathered from Chris's thread, I sort of like '32 Fords, all shapes, sizes, and countries of origin and how can I not like your neat truck hidden away in what for once what actually looks like a real barn.

It looks pretty complete with a few typical things missing like the horn, original head lamps, rear view mirror bracket and no doubt others, but no show stoppers; its condition looks remarkable. One of its features that is not often encountered on trucks sold in North America is the spare tire mounted in the left front fender rather than the typical mounting opposite the driver.

The engine looks to be a real prize as it has a counterbalanced crankshaft which the truck's original engine likely did not have. Judging from your photos, the cylinder block was sleeved, hence the standard bore pistons.

As for literature, you're lucky as a lot of 1932 Ford literature survives in both its original and reprinted form. There are four pieces that I consider essential building blocks and all have been reprinted at one time or another and they and original examples show up on ebay and Amazon regularly or are available new from parts dealers. They are: the '32 four-cylinder owners manual, the '32 Service Bulletins, the 1928-32 chassis parts catalog, and the 1932 body parts catalog. Ask Chris if he thinks it is worthwhile, but if he does, the two-volume spiral bound 620 page "The 1932 Ford Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide" published by The Early Ford V8 Club of America treats Model B fours on an equal footing with the V8s and whether you restore it or leave your truck basically as is, you likely find more than enough in its pages to make it a worthwhile purchase.

corvette8n · 05-17-2022, 07:06 AM

Great find welcome to the barn.

sugarmaker · 05-17-2022, 07:35 AM

Redpond,
From one newbie to another welcome to the Ford Barn. With the good folks here you wont be a newbie for long! Wow your truck is wonderful! We probably will need to talk at some point too. PM me and we can share info.
Your engine internals look like it has been freshened not to long ago.
The truck looks really good. As David mentioned I thought I saw the hardware fore the spare on the drivers side too??
I am afraid I will have a whole bunch of questions. Like if they did mount the spare there how the heck did they get in and out? I guess just from the pass side? Which actually makes sense. Because the key for the doors is on the pass side and the gas filler is one the pass side too.
On the seats. Well David helped me understand the seat frame design. I built my seat frames. I got my 32 truck custom seat springs from Snyder's. (the custom part was to give me a little more room in the cab)
The wheels? I had a lead in northwest Ohio some time ago and dropped it because mine came together ok. I might be able to dig that up, but dont hold your breath. Be very careful taking the rings off the rims as to not distort them any more than nessesary.
Tires tubes and flaps? I had to get items from different suppliers, to get what I wanted.

You plans and goals sound like what most of us want to do. Get this thing running stopping and driving! I have been playing with mine for a year! Still have much to do.

I will try to help where I can. So many folks have helped me with questions and parts!
Let us know where your located that may help track down some things too.

My long winding thread on my truck is doing exactly what I intended getting others to get there projects moving along.

You dump bed is different than the Garwood or the Gallion beds that I have seen. It may be a later one? Is it hydraulic lift.

By the way any recommendations from David G. are to be recognized as providing light on your project from someone that has been there done that and "wrote the books" on the 32 Fords!

Looking forward to following your progress too.
Pictures? You did a great job. I am trying to get photobucket to work for me again. I like using a third party hosting site. and posting pis at 800 x 450 ish pixel size.
Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 05-17-2022, 07:53 AM

Redpond,
My best guess from your pictures is that your in Kentucky? How close am I? Off to work on old stuff Maybe take the 32 for a spin if the roads are dry.
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 05-17-2022, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Hi Redpond,

Welcome to the barn. As you likely gathered from Chris's thread, I sort of like '32 Fords, all shapes, sizes, and countries of origin and how can I not like your neat truck hidden away in what for once what actually looks like a real barn.

It looks pretty complete with a few typical things missing like the horn, original head lamps, rear view mirror bracket and no doubt others, but no show stoppers; its condition looks remarkable. One of its features that is not often encountered on trucks sold in North America is the spare tire mounted in the left front fender rather than the typical mounting opposite the driver.

The engine looks to be a real prize as it has a counterbalanced crankshaft which the truck's original engine likely did not have. Judging from your photos, the cylinder block was sleeved, hence the standard bore pistons.

As for literature, you're lucky as a lot of 1932 Ford literature survives in both its original and reprinted form. There are four pieces that I consider essential building blocks and all have been reprinted at one time or another and they and original examples show up on ebay and Amazon regularly or are available new from parts dealers. They are: the '32 four-cylinder owners manual, the '32 Service Bulletins, the 1928-32 chassis parts catalog, and the 1932 body parts catalog. Ask Chris if he thinks it is worthwhile, but if he does, the two-volume spiral bound 620 page "The 1932 Ford Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide" published by The Early Ford V8 Club of America treats Model B fours on an equal footing with the V8s and whether you restore it or leave your truck basically as is, you likely find more than enough in its pages to make it a worthwhile purchase.

Thank you David- I will get right on those books.

condition really is remarkable all around- only detrimental rust is on the dump bed itself, easy patchwork though. I have seen some 10 year old chevrolets with much worse frames than this truck.

I had not really noticed the spare tire mount as different, but can see the weirdness now, being on the driver side! I will have to dig in to see if it will impede entering exiting once I get a proper socket, and the wheels off.

thanks again.

Redpond2 · 05-17-2022, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Redpond,
From one newbie to another welcome to the Ford Barn. With the good folks here you wont be a newbie for long! Wow your truck is wonderful! We probably will need to talk at some point too. PM me and we can share info.
Your engine internals look like it has been freshened not to long ago.
The truck looks really good. As David mentioned I thought I saw the hardware fore the spare on the drivers side too??
I am afraid I will have a whole bunch of questions. Like if they did mount the spare there how the heck did they get in and out? I guess just from the pass side? Which actually makes sense. Because the key for the doors is on the pass side and the gas filler is one the pass side too.
On the seats. Well David helped me understand the seat frame design. I built my seat frames. I got my 32 truck custom seat springs from Snyder's. (the custom part was to give me a little more room in the cab)
The wheels? I had a lead in northwest Ohio some time ago and dropped it because mine came together ok. I might be able to dig that up, but dont hold your breath. Be very careful taking the rings off the rims as to not distort them any more than nessesary.
Tires tubes and flaps? I had to get items from different suppliers, to get what I wanted.

You plans and goals sound like what most of us want to do. Get this thing running stopping and driving! I have been playing with mine for a year! Still have much to do.

I will try to help where I can. So many folks have helped me with questions and parts!
Let us know where your located that may help track down some things too.

My long winding thread on my truck is doing exactly what I intended getting others to get there projects moving along.

You dump bed is different than the Garwood or the Gallion beds that I have seen. It may be a later one? Is it hydraulic lift.

By the way any recommendations from David G. are to be recognized as providing light on your project from someone that has been there done that and "wrote the books" on the 32 Fords!

Looking forward to following your progress too.
Pictures? You did a great job. I am trying to get photobucket to work for me again. I like using a third party hosting site. and posting pis at 800 x 450 ish pixel size.
Regards,
Chris

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Redpond,
My best guess from your pictures is that your in Kentucky? How close am I? Off to work on old stuff Maybe take the 32 for a spin if the roads are dry.
Regards,
Chris

Chris/others- good guess! south central Kentucky is home, and actually found the truck about 30 minutes from home-base.

I am not sure about access for drivers side door as it had not even crossed my mind that would be in the way. I will work on getting wheels off and test fitting one up to see how tight it will be. I am still younger and agile enough, and not a terribly tall or big person so I should be able to squeeze in there if need be.

The dump bed is PTO driven hydraulic lift- appears to work from inside the cab mostly. there is a plate on the side of the dump bed that I need to do some cleaning to get all the details. Looks to be a Canton all steel Dump body bed made in OH. Model 3H. have not dug into yet.

I found your thread after I had found the truck, pre-purchase. I still have it pulled up on a tab on the home computer as I am still reading the saga. At the point where engine #2 got brazed and initial reinstalling started taking place- No spoilers! ill get to current day soon enough.

Bob C · 05-17-2022, 10:04 AM

I'm surprised Ford didn't use the indented door like on the 1931 AA.

tubman · 05-17-2022, 10:18 AM

Never in my life would have thought that I'd want my own dump truck. First "Sugarmaker" and now this. I'm getting the urge.

Bored&Stroked · 05-17-2022, 12:06 PM

Welcome on board - looks like a great Truck project and Sugarmaker and you are bound to be fast friends! LOL

The engine looks to me like it was rebuilt sometime very shortly before the truck was parked. It looks like I can still see a bunch of "lubriplate" around the rods/journals, on the front cam gear, etc.. If the piston tops were actually that clean - then it has not been ran at all. Did you clean them up?

Redpond2 · 05-17-2022, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

Never in my life would have thought that I'd want my own dump truck. First "Sugarmaker" and now this. I'm getting the urge.

I don’t blame you, I would do it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Welcome on board - looks like a great Truck project and Sugarmaker and you are bound to be fast friends! LOL

The engine looks to me like it was rebuilt sometime very shortly before the truck was parked. It looks like I can still see a bunch of "lubriplate" around the rods/journals, on the front cam gear, etc.. If the piston tops were actually that clean - then it has not been ran at all. Did you clean them up?

Only cleaning I did on cylinders/piston tops was some compressed air to get the “big chunks” out of there.

Already gotten a lot of information and further in the weeds thanks to Chris’s thread. Working on getting to my “10 posts” count to PM him some contact info. Hoping to work with him and compare the two trucks/projects/part procurement/etc.

KDL · 05-17-2022, 08:02 PM

Redpond2,
Very cool truck. Good luck on getting her going down the road.

sugarmaker · 05-17-2022, 09:23 PM

Redpond2,
Your picture at the gas station had a sign for 31E. There are several places where that road number appears. But the trucks at the gas station do not have front licence plates. Which narrowed it to KY. You can't hide!
Looking forward to talking with you about your truck. Please do not think I am a 32 expert. I just own this old truck similar to yours. They are unique for sure. Learning about them every day.
Took mine to the local hardware store and for a ride at sunset.
Really like the experience. Just not a long distance machine.
Are you near Bowling Green?
Regards,
Chris

Dick Webber · 05-17-2022, 11:09 PM

Well I am Grandpa to Redpond2. I am a preservationist, Owner of Fords from T to Pinto, and a 61 year Model A owner. I was so pleased with his interest in this truck, and in its preservation. It is truly a rare find. I am also pleased with your interest and support in his project. Believe me, I know how important it is. So thank you all for your help. I haven’t been in the Barn for awhile, but I’ll be back for sure. I even got the first ride in the truck as he pushed it up a steep hill into his garage with a Bobcat.

As I write this I’m even wearing a Ford Barn shirt! Great to be back. This is an exciting (and very big) project. Thank you!

Redpond2 · 05-18-2022, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Redpond2,
Your picture at the gas station had a sign for 31E. There are several places where that road number appears. But the trucks at the gas station do not have front licence plates. Which narrowed it to KY. You can't hide!
Looking forward to talking with you about your truck. Please do not think I am a 32 expert. I just own this old truck similar to yours. They are unique for sure. Learning about them every day.
Took mine to the local hardware store and for a ride at sunset.
Really like the experience. Just not a long distance machine.
Are you near Bowling Green?
Regards,
Chris

Yessir, in the heart of bowling green actually! Mine is at a standstill at the moment while parts/literature show up. Working on my post count to send you and David PM’s.

Been soaking parts in PB and doing light cleaning and disassembly in preparation.

Glad to hear it’s out and about on the road, I’m at your first drives with the leak that went away in your saga.

Redpond2 · 05-18-2022, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDL

Redpond2,
Very cool truck. Good luck on getting her going down the road.

Thank you KDL! You have a pretty sharp one yourself!

Redpond2 · 05-18-2022, 08:05 AM

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Short to-do list:

-Get the brakes opened up to inspect
-clean the gas tank and free up fuel shutoff
-get wiring harness ordered and ran
-reassemble engine with new gasket kit
-get top plate of trans off to inspect

No new pictures at the moment, hoping to have this truck under its own power in a few weeks. Then starts to sourcing of all the tidbits I’m missing and getting it back together as a comfortable runner

DavidG · 05-18-2022, 09:09 AM

Please be aware that there is a distinct difference between early and late production four-cylinder wiring harnesses, both for the lighting/horn harness and the engine compartment/instrument panel harness. I raise this subject given that your engine number is sort of mid-year production and the best reproduction wiring source (Rhode Island Wiring) for '32 fours (in my opinion) has a current lead time of about four months.

Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need. Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column.

I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration.

51504bat · 05-18-2022, 10:09 AM

A couple of thoughts. First instead of PB Blaster try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Second, given the lead time quoted for Rhode Island Wiring you might want to check out YandZ wiring. Quality original wiring and the around might be less if you you're in a hurry. JMO
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

DavidG · 05-18-2022, 10:54 AM

One big drawback with YandZ according to their online catalog is that they are evidently unaware of the major mid-year changes in '32 four cylinder electrical/wiring systems.

51504bat · 05-18-2022, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

One big drawback with YandZ according to their online catalog is that they are evidently unaware of the major mid-year changes in '32 four cylinder electrical/wiring systems.

Worth a phone call. IMO

sugarmaker · 05-18-2022, 02:44 PM

Redpond2,
You have a good plan. Very nice that you have your grandfather to look over your shoulder too!
I have traveled to Bowling Green several times. We stayed there when we went to visit Michael at Third Gen.
When I was working the company would send me and others to the manufacturer plant in Bowling Green.
Good meals at Rafferty's!
You have a better chance than me to get your truck running. My engine #1, was very tired. Engine #2 was similar. So I had the brakes and seats refurbed, while the engine was made ready.
Lots of moves, lots of learning, lots of fun!
Regards,
Chris

petehoovie · 05-18-2022, 03:48 PM

Make it look like these > https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=193...ages&ia=images

DavidG · 05-18-2022, 04:43 PM

Well, sort of, as that is a '33.

Redpond2 · 05-18-2022, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need.

Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column...I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration.

I do appear to have a dash light tucked up center of the dash behind gauge panel and a switch at center bottom of gauge panel (no legible markings but based on your description that is what it would be for) I am not seeing a fuse block, however.

The starter motor has the switch directly on top of it. There appears to be a couple empty spots on the dash that could be for a "start" switch. There is an aftermarket universal ignition switch wire in hanging loose at the moment.

no short cable between starter and steering column-mounted switch, but I don't really trust that as it appears there has been a bunch of cutting and slapping stuff in over the years to get it running.

I do have the bell shaped rotary switch for the lights (proper name is evading me) at the end of the steering column but I am not sure that is what your referring to.

hopefully some pics showing what I have and what is potentially missing will clarify..

Redpond2 · 05-18-2022, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Redpond2,
You have a good plan. Very nice that you have your grandfather to look over your shoulder too!
I have traveled to Bowling Green several times. We stayed there when we went to visit Michael at Third Gen.
When I was working the company would send me and others to the manufacturer plant in Bowling Green.
Good meals at Rafferty's!
You have a better chance than me to get your truck running. My engine #1, was very tired. Engine #2 was similar. So I had the brakes and seats refurbed, while the engine was made ready.
Lots of moves, lots of learning, lots of fun!
Regards,
Chris

I have been here all, but about a year, of my life. If we have anything its, plenty of corvettes, and plenty of restaurants.

If you come through town again, and like raffertys, I would recommend Pub or Novo. both top notch eateries.

on the "getting the truck running" I think what will slow it down the most is my lack of parts knowledge, and time of course with a full time job and a young child at home. I will admit I've been put in a great starting position with this engines condition. shouldn't take too long as long as parts availability doesn't bite me in the butt.

still lots of learning to do.

Redpond2 · 05-18-2022, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 51504bat

A couple of thoughts. First instead of PB Blaster try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Second, given the lead time quoted for Rhode Island Wiring you might want to check out YandZ wiring. Quality original wiring and the around might be less if you you're in a hurry. JMO
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

I have 50/50 on the engine components, figured with how exposed/corroded the lugnuts/studs/brake linkage is PB would be better at busting them free. I haven't used 50/50 before this project, it was recommended for the engine components to free them up. better than PB on the real crusty areas too?

If we can figure out what wiring I need and that is what YandZ offers then I will, by all means, give them a call.

the only thing hurrying me, is myself. I have an itch to scratch and that includes driving this truck to the courthouse for its title inspection..

51504bat · 05-18-2022, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redpond2

I have 50/50 on the engine components, figured with how exposed/corroded the lugnuts/studs/brake linkage is PB would be better at busting them free. I haven't used 50/50 before this project, it was recommended for the engine components to free them up. better than PB on the real crusty areas too?

If we can figure out what wiring I need and that is what YandZ offers then I will, by all means, give them a call.

the only thing hurrying me, is myself. I have an itch to scratch and that includes driving this truck to the courthouse for its title inspection..

I've had better luck with the 50/50 mix but as the saying goes, "your results may vary" As far as the wiring differences that David G referenced, if I see Gene from YnZ at the swap meet on Saturday I'll ask him.

sugarmaker · 05-19-2022, 10:12 AM

Redpond2,
We will keep you busy just answering questions and posting pictures! Your engine compartment is way too clean! Just joking that is a good thing. If you find a nos starter knob and cable get one for me.
Don't rush too much! Parts could be a issue, but lots of folks watching you and your truck. Really happy that your working on this. Keep life in perspective. It's a little easier for some of us older retired folks.
BTW good pictures!
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 05-20-2022, 06:52 AM

Pete,

You rascal; you switched the photo from a red '33 to a very handsome blue '32!

rockfla · 05-20-2022, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Pete,

You rascal; you switched the photo from a red '33 to a very handsome blue '32!

David
Just read the post and a good thing I read all the way to the bottom, I was fixing to PM you for a "Lesson". Yes that Blue/black is very sharp with the pinstripe!!

petehoovie · 05-20-2022, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Pete,

You rascal; you switched the photo from a red '33 to a very handsome blue '32!

Guilty!....

DavidG · 05-20-2022, 12:17 PM

Robert,

The horn, however, is for a Model A, including where it is attached.

rockfla · 05-20-2022, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Robert,

The horn, however, is for a Model A, including where it is attached.

Appears to have a 25 Louvre hood??? I would imagine more of a common item on a truck of that nature and the expected loads to be carried? OR was that a "stock" item on a BB truck?

*****CORRECTION******* had to get the magnifying glass and count and its 21 NOT 25

SORRY

sugarmaker · 05-21-2022, 04:17 PM

You guys are awesome! Has me looking and thinking, and I can barely tell them all apart!

That blue dump is very nice. I expect Redpond2's dump may look something like that in a year or so!
If things work out I would like to drool on his truck in BG in a week or so!
Anyone see a dump like he has?
Wait,,,,,listen,,,, does he have that B engine running??

I would have tried to fire mine up if it would have looked half that clean and fresh.
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 05-21-2022, 07:06 PM

There were three different sets of hood sides used in U.S. production during the '32 model year. The first was a true twenty louver set, short lived due to its flimsiness, followed by the twenty louver hood with only the forward-most nineteen louvers actually open, and then the twenty-five louver variety late in the model year. The hood side in Pete's photo is likely the twenty/really nineteen variety which is by far the most common.

Not likely realized by many is the commonality of sheet metal and other components of '32s across the various categories of vehicles from the cowl forward. At any point in time during the model year, whatever hood version was in use in production was used on the passenger cars, commercial vehicles, and big trucks. The same goes for the firewall and front fenders (excluding big truck fenders with wells for side-mounted spares), the apron below the radiator shell, the radiator shell and grille and head lamps and head lamp bar (passenger cars and deluxe versions of commercial vehicles and big trucks).

That practice ended abruptly with the start of the '33 model year.

Redpond2 · 05-21-2022, 07:42 PM

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Chris,

Between work being busy, which is good this project needs funds, this week and my loud shop time getting cut short with the little one asleep above me I haven't got much done on the old truck.

I did go to put the head and pan back on as everything is free (had some valves sticking but 50/50 took care of it) but realized the head gasket and oil pan gasket are both incorrect. the head gasket does not have holes for the little weep holes surrounding the head stud between cylinder 1 and 2. and the oil pan gasket looks completely wrong.

Also, it looks like the prior rebuild was cut short before any attention was given to the carburetor. on the carb, has anyone had luck with electrolysis on cleaning these up? or am I better off sending this to someone who really knows these old Zenith-2's? also is that cast piece in center supposed to look broken?

Did get some literature in, still waiting on some other books to show. Got some misc parts I found while scrolling eBay; hood latches, door hinge pins (Currently they are barn nails) and some tooling I needed.

Also took a wheel off and put it on my spare to check interference with the drivers door; really isn't any, door opens up about 90 degrees and leaves plenty of room to get in/out. Lucked out there!

Once I get the gaskets and the carb squared away, I don't see why I cant use an aux fuel tank and see what happens.

Did get a gift from the grandpa- He found some Kentucky 1932 license plates, talk about some icing on the cake when she's going down the road!

DavidG · 05-21-2022, 08:21 PM

Nathan,

Please do not invest any further effort in that carburetor as it is for a Model A and not for a Model B. There is a real performance difference between them.

Dave Renner of Manchester, MI is your best bet for four-cylinder carburetor work (rennerscorner.com).

The choke control is more important on a B four than it is on V8, accordingly, please share what you have.

Thanks.

Redpond2 · 05-21-2022, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Nathan,

Please do not invest any further effort in that carburetor as it is for a Model A and not for a Model B. There is a real performance difference between them.

Dave Renner of Manchester, MI is your best bet for four-cylinder carburetor work (rennerscorner.com).

The choke control is more important on a B four than it is on V8, accordingly, please share what you have.

Thanks.

thanks David for keeping me on the path, went down and got you some pictures of the choke cable, while down there I remembered the box the previous owner gave me with some misc. parts. in there was a carb in much better shape but I didn't pay it any mind since the zenith was what was bolted on. whats the chances this other carb (pictured below) is correct? it would sure be handy as its in much better shape.

Bob C · 05-21-2022, 08:58 PM

That also looks like a Model A head gasket, Snyder's has the head gasket.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...3956&cat=41691
I don't think anybody makes a head gasket shaped like the originals.
See the link to Vince's site. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABc...asketguide.htm

Redpond2 · 05-21-2022, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

That also looks like a Model A head gasket, Snyder's has the head gasket.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...3956&cat=41691
I don't think anybody makes a head gasket shaped like the originals.
See the link to Vince's site. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABc...asketguide.htm

Yes, it is for an A but was in this B engine. vince's site was what lead me to look at the head gasket again and found it didn't have the steam holes in it.

somewhat cumbersome site the first time I got on but is chock full of info and not too bad at navigating once I figured out the method.

DavidG · 05-21-2022, 09:15 PM

Your second carburetor has the general appearance of the original, but appears to have die cast construction rather than cast iron. I'll see if I have any spares.

Unfortunately the end of your choke cable has been modified to fit that Model A carburetor in your early photos. There appears to be enough left of the original tip to bring it back to its original length and shape (half round without a notch).

Yes, Vince's site is outstanding and worth investing time in navigating it. We disagree on a few details, but nothing fundamental.

Bob C · 05-21-2022, 09:32 PM

The other carburetor you have is a Marvel Schebler / Allstate, Renner's has parts
for them.

Redpond2 · 05-21-2022, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

The other carburetor you have is a Marvel Schebler / Allstate, Renner's has parts
for them.

Bob- thanks, If I don't get my hands on a good original one at this upcoming meet I at least know now I can get parts for this one and it should work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Your second carburetor has the general appearance of the original, but appears to have die cast construction rather than cast iron. I'll see if I have any spares.

Unfortunately the end of your choke cable has been modified to fit that Model A carburetor in your early photos. There appears to be enough left of the original tip to bring it back to its original length and shape (half round without a notch).

Yes, Vince's site is outstanding and worth investing time in navigating it. We disagree on a few details, but nothing fundamental.

David- My choke cable measures out to about 32 1/2" a couple inches shorter than the specs I found on vince's site (34 1/2"). is this enough to cause problems and should be replaced or is the consensus this should probably be fine?

thanks,

DavidG · 05-21-2022, 10:33 PM

That 34 1/2" (actually 34 1/4") measurement is for the B-9700 cable assembly which is for passenger cars. BB-9700 was 32 3/4" and for the vehicles with shorter cowls (commercial vehicles and your truck). So what you have is the right starting point.

It can get a bit confusing with your truck having a mixture of parts with B part number prefixes and BB prefixes.

Redpond2 · 05-22-2022, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Please be aware that there is a distinct difference between early and late production four-cylinder wiring harnesses, both for the lighting/horn harness and the engine compartment/instrument panel harness. I raise this subject given that your engine number is sort of mid-year production and the best reproduction wiring source (Rhode Island Wiring) for '32 fours (in my opinion) has a current lead time of about four months.

Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need. Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column.

I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 51504bat

A couple of thoughts. First instead of PB Blaster try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Second, given the lead time quoted for Rhode Island Wiring you might want to check out YandZ wiring. Quality original wiring and the around might be less if you you're in a hurry. JMO
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

David/5150,

I would like to revisit my wiring questions; to figure out if I need the early vs late year I have attached some pictures of whats left of my dash and dash light control switch. pictures were taken early this morning as is showcased with my intense concentration while trying to get good lighting/picture quality.

If YandZ has the correct harness; that will be the vendor I go with as I want this driving as soon as I can muster.

Also got the correct head gasket ordered from snyders and new driver side door hinge pins put in, got cut short on putting in the passenger side hinge pins, as it was the kids nap time and I was making far too much noise!

will continue chipping away at the little stuff while researching/shopping/ tackling the big stuff as time/parts availability permits.

DavidG · 05-22-2022, 11:18 AM

Except for the bulb socket, your dash light set up is not original so what you need are the early wiring harnesses (engine compartment/instrument panel harness and lamp/horn wiring harness). Also add the ammeter to your wanted list as the one there is not an original '32 ammeter, nor even usable.

51504bat · 05-22-2022, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redpond2

David/5150,

I would like to revisit my wiring questions; to figure out if I need the early vs late year I have attached some pictures of whats left of my dash and dash light control switch. pictures were taken early this morning as is showcased with my intense concentration while trying to get good lighting/picture quality.

If YandZ has the correct harness; that will be the vendor I go with as I want this driving as soon as I can muster.

Also got the correct head gasket ordered from snyders and new driver side door hinge pins put in, got cut short on putting in the passenger side hinge pins, as it was the kids nap time and I was making far too much noise!

will continue chipping away at the little stuff while researching/shopping/ tackling the big stuff as time/parts availability permits.

Gene from YnZ wasn't at the swap meet on Saturday. I'll try to stop in on Tuesday when he usually is at work and see if he can shed some light on this. Even if they can produce the correct harness as referenced by DavidG they might be as backed up as the other manufacturers. More when I know.

sugarmaker · 05-22-2022, 02:09 PM

Nate,
Good pictures to start to document what you have, where your going, and where you have been, on the 32 dump truck project!
You have the A team working with you. It will take some time but you will get there. I did not see a picture of the carb side of the engine, or missed it. Do you have the distributor? Fuel pump?
Regards,
Chris

Bored&Stroked · 05-22-2022, 02:53 PM

If you haven't put the new head gasket and head on, then it would be a very good idea to pull the valves (obviously keeping track of what goes where), and inspect the valves faces and seats. Given that the engine sat for a long time, there may be rust on the ones that were open. I'd clean them well with some steel wool, inspect carefully and determine if any need to be touched up. If they all look good, then get some fine lapping compound (not coarse!) and lap them back in to ensure a good seal. This is not a big job (if everything is not rust pitted) and you'll know that all your valves will correctly seal. Now is the time!

Redpond2 · 05-22-2022, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate,
Good pictures to start to document what you have, where your going, and where you have been, on the 32 dump truck project!
You have the A team working with you. It will take some time but you will get there. I did not see a picture of the carb side of the engine, or missed it. Do you have the distributor? Fuel pump?
Regards,
Chris

Chris- I don't believe I've posted that side of the engine; lets fix that! I do have a distributor and fuel pump. with some of the other components on this block being wrong already, I'll post both fuel pump and distributor to check for correctness. (Distributor has $8 sharpied on it so I am sure its been replaced and with other A parts being put on it very well may be different than what I need)

I hadn't planned on any work today on this old truck, but as one does, I found myself in the garage after the family cookout.

finished getting door hinge pins install, got all wheels off without much trouble and got front hubs off before kiddo went down for the night. rears are a little tight and may require some percussion mechanics to free them- for another day when little eyes aren't closed. ( I abide by the "let a sleeping dog lie" carefully with young children) Found AA drums, and brake material/ hardware to be in good shape, will adjust once back together.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

If you haven't put the new head gasket and head on, then it would be a very good idea to pull the valves (obviously keeping track of what goes where), and inspect the valves faces and seats. Given that the engine sat for a long time, there may be rust on the ones that were open. I'd clean them well with some steel wool, inspect carefully and determine if any need to be touched up. If they all look good, then get some fine lapping compound (not coarse!) and lap them back in to ensure a good seal. This is not a big job (if everything is not rust pitted) and you'll know that all your valves will correctly seal. Now is the time!

Bored&Stroked- this exact topic came up today with my grandpa. I had the Intake valve on cylinder #3 soaking in 50/50 and it kept wanting to stick slightly, with no luck as of today and this is the grungiest part of the engine as it doesn't look like it was touched in the "recent" rebuild. This has bothered because I would be a ripe fella to have to take it all back apart if it didn't work as it should when I was already this far in.

Conclusion: A model A friend with deep machinist background has agreed to do a proper valve job on this engine much better than grandpa and I feel we can pull off; I think this will complete the rebuild. I will also see if he will check if both head and block mating surface is true flat while he has it. I'm told I will "shit myself" when I walk into his shop.

with that said; this engine is now getting pulled. while it is out I'll be replacing the ring gear as there are about a dozen teeth with some damage and will have a good opportunity to take a look at clutch/ throwout bearing/ etc.

any other recommendations for Bill to check while this is at the machine shop??

thanks all for checking in and keeping me out of the weeds too much. everyones recommendations are taken seriously into my decision making on this project.

J Franklin · 05-22-2022, 09:16 PM

You need to get the kiddos trained to sleep with you working. You'll gat a lot more done!

Redpond2 · 05-22-2022, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Franklin

You need to get the kiddos trained to sleep with you working. You'll gat a lot more done!

Would be ideal, working on it!

He's only 9 months old and his crib is directly above all the noise so, for now, his sleep gets priority. Leaves me time to slow down and get much needed research done as well. I have a tendency to put the cart ahead of the horse, so research is crucial for this project!

DavidG · 05-23-2022, 11:43 AM

Nathan,

If it were mine, since he will be removing the valves anyway, I'd go all the way and have the block stripped of bolt-on parts and properly cleaned (with something not harmful to babbitt bearings.)

Add a distributor to your wanted list. That's an A and inferior to the B with its centrifugal spark advance rather than the A's manual advance. The fuel pump is installed upside down so I cannot see enough of it to say if it is for sure an original, but from what I can see, it looks to be one. Likely it should be rebuilt, which is an easy DIY project.

sugarmaker · 05-23-2022, 01:55 PM

Nate,
This all sounds very familiar! I think the engine was put together with good intenension of it running but the fuel pump was probably not going to work well as David noted being installed upside down.
Somewhat Like my project the 90 year old engine syndrome, has got its grip on you. Your going to be fine. Hope your machinist is not on the same time schdule as mine! I think I was supposed to get a reworked B engine block in April. Begining to wonder what year!

Thanks for the pictures! Good documentation! Your valve area is way cleaner than mine was!
Regards,
Chris

Clem Clement · 05-23-2022, 04:49 PM

Bodascioous sweet truck.
informal thoughts:
Fix the brakes, tires, safety aspects and go truckin. Everyone likes a truckin man.

Ask Dave about havin2 taillights. Model A; did not have but one; Safer.
Think about a high brake light on the tailgate. I have a repainted black light and bracket. Free for postage.(Don't know if is 32)
get a new wiring harness. Tyree Harris does a great job. You will need good wires to reach grounds to the taillights.

check winshield for safety glass.
Pull valve cover and cleanout thoroughly . Look for 4 old passages on main bearings. Clean with pipe cleaners and rattle can cleaners.
use kite string to hold pan gasket in place

Use crow bar of big screwdriver to pop dip tray loose. Clean fins well as they are used a dirt as traps.
For rattle checks, wack the frame edges with a rubber BFT. Looosenesseses will sing off tune.
Use bike innertube to de-rattle tailgate chain. Put a drain hole in the lowest part of the tube.
What is the name of your rig? (Dumpy Woumpy ain't so good)

How many beer keg can you carry. I got 4 in my 29 Model A +hay bails and chicks

sugarmaker · 05-23-2022, 08:26 PM

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Nate,
Clem and I are all over your truck!
He has some great suggestions! I got so many good ideas, I am still overwhelmed! Go slow keeping you plans and goals in mind. These can take big chunks of money and time.
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 05-24-2022, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

Bodascioous sweet truck.
informal thoughts:
Fix the brakes, tires, safety aspects and go truckin. Everyone likes a truckin man.

Ask Dave about havin2 taillights. Model A; did not have but one; Safer.
Think about a high brake light on the tailgate. I have a repainted black light and bracket. Free for postage.(Don't know if is 32)
get a new wiring harness. Tyree Harris does a great job. You will need good wires to reach grounds to the taillights.

check winshield for safety glass.
Pull valve cover and cleanout thoroughly . Look for 4 old passages on main bearings. Clean with pipe cleaners and rattle can cleaners.
use kite string to hold pan gasket in place

Use crow bar of big screwdriver to pop dip tray loose. Clean fins well as they are used a dirt as traps.
For rattle checks, wack the frame edges with a rubber BFT. Looosenesseses will sing off tune.
Use bike innertube to de-rattle tailgate chain. Put a drain hole in the lowest part of the tube.
What is the name of your rig? (Dumpy Woumpy ain't so good)

How many beer keg can you carry. I got 4 in my 29 Model A +hay bails and chicks

Thanks Clem! Already had the pan off (super clean, no sludge) and valve cover off(crusty and sticking guides). Got the engine pulled tonight and clutch/pressure plate look like they’re almost 90 years old. Going to get new clutch disk and resurface flywheel and replace ring gear. Throw out bearing looks newer and in good shape.

Engine will be off, over the next few days time, for a valve job and an overall inspection by a machinist.

Tank and radiator are off to get boiled. Local radiator shop looked at tank and thinks that procedure will be sufficient, it’s really not that bad.

Front end inspected, everything is tight up there, oil pump disassembled and inspected, looks good as well.

Got gauges on the way, original hood latches and some other misc. parts.

Any insight on how the fuel sending unit works? Waiting on my 32 book, I’m assuming vacuum line to the gauge??

Also haven’t had any luck getting rear drums off. Is a puller needed? Are they held in with a woodruff key? Don’t want to beat on em too hard if the books going to tell me an easier way.

Great idea for the tubes to quiet the chains!

And I will have to get back to you on how many kegs and women I can fit in the bed, I don’t think I’ll find the number by weight limit, but rather, by real estate!

No good names have come up just yet. It’s just the old truck for now, I’m sure something will come up naturally!

Not much in the way of pictures tonight, I’m whooped!

sugarmaker · 05-24-2022, 09:05 PM

Nate,
You have been busy! Great update on your dump truck!
Good progress and plan too.
Looking forward to drooling on your truck next week.
Regards,
Chris

petehoovie · 05-24-2022, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redpond2

Not much in the way of pictures tonight, I’m whooped!

Redpond2 · 05-24-2022, 09:39 PM

Update: gramps was taking some pics while I worked away, here’s pressure plate and clutch as they came out and oil pan after I’d done some cleaning

Redpond2 · 05-24-2022, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate,
You have been busy! Great update on your dump truck!
Good progress and plan too.
Looking forward to drooling on your truck next week.
Regards,
Chris

I believe it’ll be your truck that will be needing cleaned up! Excited to see the potential this thing has. In person, I expect will be so much better than through the barn, as great as it is.

If I keep at it there won’t be much but a shell for you to look at! I better slow down for a few days!

Thanks

Bob C · 05-24-2022, 10:09 PM

You may have to get creative to get the rear drums off. The one with the wheel is one I made, the channel iron welded to the rim is to beat with a big hammer to get the drum to turn if the brake shoes are rusted to the drum.

DavidG · 05-25-2022, 01:09 AM

In the third photo of #70, it would appear that the right lower corner of the flywheel housing is MIA, which is not uncommon as the castings are weak in the two corners. Evidently the problem must have shown up in 1932 as the '33-''34 version of the four-cylinder flywheel housings are beefier in both corners.

sugarmaker · 05-25-2022, 07:14 AM

BobC,
Wow you get serious when it comes to getting wheels off!

Nate,
I used a three leg Snap On brand (old) puller that pulls on the wheel studs. I had to do some slight mods to the puller. The drums/hubs are a tapered fit on to axle. I had some tense moments before it came off like a shothgun blast. Lots of turning/ tightening/ beating and waiting!
Having the right tooling is important. The rear hubs probably have not been off for 80 years! They like where they are at and are happy. But they have to come off!

David is so observent, I missed that totaly, But I see the casting is broken.
Is there a replacement out there? Numbers wont match if you replace it.

Regards,
Chris

Newc · 05-25-2022, 01:22 PM

Correct number stamps are available in WA state-advertised Hemmings and BARN, worth cost. Newc

DavidG · 05-25-2022, 01:38 PM

Not a big deal to change numbers on another flywheel housing in most states, especially if you are upfront about it.

Redpond2 · 05-25-2022, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

In the third photo of #70, it would appear that the right lower corner of the flywheel housing is MIA, which is not uncommon as the castings are weak in the two corners. Evidently the problem must have shown up in 1932 as the '33-''34 version of the four-cylinder flywheel housings are beefier in both corners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

David is so observent, I missed that totaly, But I see the casting is broken.
Is there a replacement out there? Numbers wont match if you replace it.

Regards,
Chris

I’m glad you guys caught that, as I had missed it entirely. Yup has a chunk out that looks like it should have a bolt in that spot. I would very much like to keep this truck numbers matching if possible. I know cast is hard to work with as far as repairs but have you guys had or heard of any success in building a new ear onto the bellhousing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Newc

Correct number stamps are available in WA state-advertised Hemmings and BARN, worth cost. Newc

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Not a big deal to change numbers on another flywheel housing in most states, especially if you are upfront about it.

This is interesting. I would have thought it was sacrilegious to change numbers on a block, on in this case flywheel housing. May be worth diving into, before I do that. What would the ramifications be if I, say, put this back in as is? Will I be dealing with leaks? Or run the risk of the flywheel housing totally shattering? I know the truck won’t be worked nearly as hard as it was in the 30’s so my thought process is “ yeah, it’s broken, but is it detrimental?”

On a side now, through some more research and FB, found this engine block to be a diamond block. Date stamp shows it to have been produced September 26th of 1938. So that gives ones reason why not to care so much about the flywheel housing, would still be cool to have it matching numbers with the original if feasible.

Your guys thoughts??

DavidG · 05-26-2022, 01:43 AM

The flywheel housing is separate from the engine block and when it comes to '32s, "matching numbers" does not mean that the engine and chassis are original one to the other, but rather only that the numbers stamped on the transmission case (v8s) or flywheel housing (fours) match those on the left side chassis frame rail. Yours is a good case in point, the original engine is long gone; all that is left of the original engine/transmission assembly is the flywheel housing and presumably the transmission (and we don't even know that for sure in the case of a four). In my opinion, far too much worth is attributed to "matching numbers" when so little is known of the real service history of nearly all vehicles of this vintage. Do they run better if the numbers match?

Repair of broken cast iron in an area of stress (unless your flywheel housing was dropped along the way) is problematic compared to broken steel components. There is/was a good reason for the material to be there in the first place and a good reason for its absence ninety years later. If it were my truck, I'd value the integrity of a re-numbered unbroken flywheel housing far more than the intangible value of unaltered "matching numbers".

Bored&Stroked · 05-26-2022, 07:12 AM

I'm with you David - it is much better to have things repaired and running as they should be, than worrying about a component that needs to be replaced. The only number that really matters is the one on the frame and on the title (they should match) . . . every else can be different and frequently is (due to maintenance and the long history of "keeping it in service" - where nobody really cared about a stamp on the cast iron).

The transmission that came in my 32 was a 32 transmission - but its numbers didn't match the title/frame. The engine was a 24 stud from the 40's (obviously the original was replaced somewhere along the way . . . usually because there was a solid reason too).

These cars/trucks were driven and used a lot during their first couple decades of service - and given WWII, folks did anything they could just to keep them running and in use . . . because getting a "new car" was not possible, even if you somehow had the $$$.

sugarmaker · 05-26-2022, 07:43 AM

Nate,
Dimond block, 1938, learned another tidbit of information. I would agree with all the above. And only Chevy guys are obsessed with numbers matching stuff. I would not try a repair on your broken bell housing, very tough project in my opinion. You may have a used bell housing headed your way soon.
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 05-26-2022, 08:27 AM

Atta boy, Chris! The only extra of the '32 version that I have suffered the same fate as Nate's, only on the opposite side.

Redpond2 · 05-26-2022, 08:28 AM

Thanks guys- thought on it last night and you’re all right; function over form, was looking for a good loophole to keep from replacing, which I don’t think exists. I may have a good bellhousing on the way thanks to Chris.

Currently waiting on the machinist to be ready for me, the radiator shop to finish boiling the fuel tank and radiator and waiting on my snap on guy to find me the heaviest puller he can get to get these rear drums off.

While the engine is gone I will be on a shopping spree. I’ll work on getting a semi-conclusive list of missing stuff in the cab, finish inspecting the brakes and get to ordering.

Thanks all for continued support

sugarmaker · 05-26-2022, 08:46 AM

David,
These dump truck guys have to stick together! The few, the brave, the ........ Ok just went off in the weeds!

I believe Nate is looking for some big boy wheels and lug nuts too. Anbody out there? I lost my lead from a year ago for some wheels in Mich. I didnt really need them so I passed on them. WIll try to pick up the trail again.

Nate I know some one that might be able to make some seat frames, Not show quality but might work for you. Springs from Snyder's worked for me. They can build custom springs too.

Will be interestd about your dash gages? None of mine function at this time but it really doesnt slow me down any. Amp gage is superseeded by a volt meter. The spedo cable is not in the truck and the 90 mph is probably not the right one anyway. Only have to worry about speed in a school zone!

The gas gage, way over my head in complexity, so I just pop the seat off and look in the tank.

What was the original color of your truck?? Find paint inside the cab??
Regards,
Chris

KDL · 05-26-2022, 04:09 PM

I'll check to see if I have any usable wheels.

sugarmaker · 05-26-2022, 08:49 PM

Nate,
The bell housing intermediate part is in the trunk of the 32. It looks to be intact.
Regards,
Chris

Newc · 05-26-2022, 09:04 PM

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Amp gage United Pacific 30 amp gage-I put it inside the '32 mount- good fit. Newc

Redpond2 · 05-26-2022, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

David,
These dump truck guys have to stick together! The few, the brave, the ........ Ok just went off in the weeds!

I believe Nate is looking for some big boy wheels and lug nuts too. Anbody out there? I lost my lead from a year ago for some wheels in Mich. I didnt really need them so I passed on them. WIll try to pick up the trail again.

Nate I know some one that might be able to make some seat frames, Not show quality but might work for you. Springs from Snyder's worked for me. They can build custom springs too.

Will be interestd about your dash gages? None of mine function at this time but it really doesnt slow me down any. Amp gage is superseeded by a volt meter. The spedo cable is not in the truck and the 90 mph is probably not the right one anyway. Only have to worry about speed in a school zone!

The gas gage, way over my head in complexity, so I just pop the seat off and look in the tank.

What was the original color of your truck?? Find paint inside the cab??
Regards,
Chris

Chris- you will be disappointed by my dash. There’s almost nothing there but a shell of the ammeter. I do have a set on order, likely to be rebuilt but they haven’t made it yet. Refer to post #55 for some pics of my dash.

I also have the gas gauge to figure out. My sending unit had nothing hooked to it. So if I come up with anything I will let you know. These require a special fluid in the gauge correct? I would say my 32 ford books will tell me for sure but they haven’t made it quite yet either.

If you happen to have some measurements on the seat frames I’ll gladly take that information. Worst case I know a fella up in PA with some experience

Everything on this truck is a rust red. Even the few knobs I have so, I have a feeling, sometime in the past there was a spray gun involved. Under the tank is black, however, so that very well could be the original color but I can’t say for certain.

Redpond2 · 05-26-2022, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDL

I'll check to see if I have any usable wheels.

Thank you for looking KDL! With any luck this old truck will be a dually again in no time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Newc

Amp gage United Pacific 30 amp gage-I put it inside the '32 mount- good fit. Newc

Thanks Newc- I’ll keep this in mind if the Tunnel and gauges I have coming is beyond repair, hoping it’s not but options are both great and the way to keep moving forward!

Thanks all for checking in, it’s been a busy week in the construction equipment sales world. Been pulling 15k lbs+ all week, the neighbors are not my biggest fans sometimes. Hoping to dedicate some significant time to the project over the Holiday weekend and this coming week.

Hope everyone enjoys the unofficial beginning of summer!

sugarmaker · 05-27-2022, 07:53 AM

Nate,
If that is the guy from Albion, on the seat frames, he is a old curmudgin! Careful working with him!

Will need to determine your top of tank shape details to accept new wooden seat frames. There are at least three different gas tank styles as I have been told. Might have enough ash lumber squirreled away to make another set? We will talk more about those frames. I know the seats are not a top priority, just a piece of the big puzzel. Glad you have the tank! But with seats at least you can set in it and make big truck sounds!

The dash gauges would be great to have working again. I will be watching.
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 05-27-2022, 08:26 AM

Chris,

Don't forget that depending on the configuration of the top of his tank, you already have an extra new seat bottom platform made and ready to use for the passenger side.

I also have a few extra new wood pieces for behind the seat back, if needed.

KDL · 05-27-2022, 12:24 PM

I do have some big truck wheels I'd part with. I'll send you a PM with the details.

sugarmaker · 05-27-2022, 06:17 PM

David,
I have slept a couple times since then, do you have that extra gas tank side frame or do I have it? If you have it and want to bring it along for Nate, it just might match his tank??
Nate, well there go on the wheels. Awesome KDL!
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 05-28-2022, 04:17 PM

Chris,
I have it and will bring it along in case it fits his tank.

Redpond2 · 05-28-2022, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

David,
I have slept a couple times since then, do you have that extra gas tank side frame or do I have it? If you have it and want to bring it along for Nate, it just might match his tank??
Nate, well there go on the wheels. Awesome KDL!
Regards,
Chris

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,
I have it and will bring it along in case it fits his tank.

Thanks fellas- hoping to have my tank back in possession by this coming friday from the radiator shop; it is getting boiled. it was recommended not to etch and seal with any modern tank sealer. they have not had good luck with them lasting more than a year in the last few years.

KDL's wheels look to match up with mine, I sent him some measurements to confirm, hoping to be figuring out shipping after the holiday if all goes as planned.

I preemptively ordered a nu-rex timing wrench, I hear the 4's are finicky with the automatic timing so I will have the tool when I get to that point.

no dice on the rear drums yet. My snap on guy loaned me the biggest puller he had on the truck to see if it would work, stud holes are not big enough. still looking for a puller that will work, preferably without spending $300-600, so any suggestions in that department I'd greatly appreciate it.

I took the transmissions top-plate off to take a look, pictures below. looks to be in pretty good shape, some wear on one gear, which one I am not sure maybe third? I do not claim to be a transmission guy. I do have some slop in the shifter, seems to want to spin in the cup about 30 degrees rather than slide from side to side in neutral. any recommendations to try and tighten this up some?

Also stumbled upon another fellow in his twenties with a 32 BB out of Missouri. His looks to be in a fully restored condition so hoping to get a chance to talk truck with him soon!

Hope everyone is enjoying the long weekend

petehoovie · 05-28-2022, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redpond2

I took the transmissions top-plate off to take a look, pictures below. looks to be in pretty good shape, some wear on one gear, which one I am not sure maybe third? I do not claim to be a transmission guy. I do have some slop in the shifter, seems to want to spin in the cup about 30 degrees rather than slide from side to side in neutral. any recommendations to try and tighten this up some?

sugarmaker · 05-28-2022, 08:36 PM

Nate,
Rear hub pulling.
I have some pictures of the old puller I used. In my thread near front??

I had to open the holes a little and I had to get some left hand nuts and modify them to get max thread engagement. A real good grip on the threads is important. I almost damaged a stud because it was not on far enough. These old pullers were on the web for sale.
Your trany looks as good or better than mine

I did tune up on my shifter to reduce the rotation in the shift lever. It,s all from wear. The pin, the socket have wear. All rebuild able with care. Just had my shifter out today trying to improve it too.
Remind me and we can review the things I did to improve my 60 degree shift lever rotation!

Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 05-28-2022, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate,
Rear hub pulling.
I have some pictures of the old puller I used. In my thread near front??

I had to open the holes a little and I had to get some left hand nuts and modify them to get max thread engagement. A real good grip on the threads is important. I almost damaged a stud because it was not on far enough. These old pullers were on the web for sale.
Your trany looks as good or better than mine

I did tune up on my shifter to reduce the rotation in the shift lever. It,s all from wear. The pin, the socket have wear. All rebuild able with care. Just had my shifter out today trying to improve it too.
Remind me and we can review the things I did to improve my 60 degree shift lever rotation!

Regards,
Chris

Chris,

Yes I had hoped to touch base on your shifter improvements while you were in town. I’ll keep mine out on the table for inspection/discussion.

I did find pics of the puller you used. From what I found it’s a blue point 4567 hub puller tool. I believe the “new version” my snap on guy let me borrow is a blue point CJ129A, and I would have to open the stud holes on it. Good to know that’s likely going to be a common theme. Looks like the price is similar for the old version and the new version. So I may just keep what my snap on guy gave me and modify as needed.

Thanks,

Nate

Bored&Stroked · 05-29-2022, 06:36 AM

Hey Guys, I've never worked on a BB Axle, but was wondering if you'd thought about using a Oxy/Acet rosebud torch to apply heat to the rear hub area that encompasses the axle snout?

I would think that using some heat would expand the hub and help with the pulling operation. It might also heat up any old grease and help the overall process . . . is probably how I'd go about it.

If you're really putting pressure with a puller and things are not moving, would hate to see you crack a drum - they might be a bit hard to find.

Any 'Big Truck' guys here that have experience along this line?

Bored&Stroked · 05-29-2022, 06:38 AM

The insides of that transmission look pretty dang good!

I say that, even though I hate having to look at spur-cut gears . . . as I have never had enough experience driving those old beasts to know how to downshift them wroth a crap - regardless of my feeble double-clutch attempts!

I like SYNCHROS! LOL

sugarmaker · 05-29-2022, 08:38 AM

Nate, Dale,
I did not use any heat on my hub during removal., but was tempted to, when it was stubborn. May work fine? I just did not want to damage any of the innards.

I have not found any method to down shift these transmisions. They just dont like that at all.
Regards,
Chris

Bob C · 05-29-2022, 10:32 AM

Some times you need a little heat.

Redpond2 · 05-29-2022, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The insides of that transmission look pretty dang good!

I say that, even though I hate having to look at spur-cut gears . . . as I have never had enough experience driving those old beasts to know how to downshift them wroth a crap - regardless of my feeble double-clutch attempts!

I like SYNCHROS! LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate, Dale,
I did not use any heat on my hub during removal., but was tempted to, when it was stubborn. May work fine? I just did not want to damage any of the innards.

I have not found any method to down shift these transmisions. They just dont like that at all.
Regards,
Chris

I like synchros and helical cut gears too! I have driven my grandpas model A and while it’s a 3 speed, I’m to the understanding it has the same drivability. Was successful at double clutch and gear down after a couple attempts. I imagine these trucks are the same premise but with different sweet spots as they are geared much lower. Will know in due time!

As far as the rear hubs go- I haven’t pulled on them yet. Every puller I’ve got or come across hasn’t fit for one reason or another. Got the green light from my snap on guy to open his lug holes up to fit and he will just warranty them if I want to give it back. Now, due to the holiday weekend I will have to find some throwaway lug nuts Tuesday. 3/4-16 in left hand thread, or standard for that matter, is surprisingly at none of the big chain automotive places. Who would have thought!

petehoovie · 05-29-2022, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

Some times you need a little heat.

Bored&Stroked · 05-29-2022, 04:54 PM

The legendary 'Flame Wrench' can disassemble just about anything made of Steel! LOL

Redpond2 · 05-29-2022, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The legendary 'Flame Wrench' can disassemble just about anything made of Steel! LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

Some times you need a little heat.

the techs have a saying in the shop where I work... "Can't be stuck if its liquid"

borrowed grandpas drill press, went and got a 3/4" bit to open the puller up some, sucker was $30 for one time use, went back to the garage and wam bam thank you ma'am! rear hubs are off, no heat needed.

rather than using a hammer to beat the handles around, I resorted to my BFPW..kin to the well known BFH.

wheel seals and some studs/lug nuts are on my list (mostly old damage/missing) as well as either rebuilding/replacing the rear adjustment mechanism. haven't been able to get either to move.

I don't think there is a whole lot more for me to remove from the truck at this point.

aside from cleaning/greasing what needs cleaned and greased, I believe I am to the point of rebuilding gauges and engine bolt-ons, and refitting the interior.

I, at least, should be doing a whole lot more bolting on rather than unbolting now!

petehoovie · 05-29-2022, 10:01 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

"went and got a 3/4" bit to open the puller up some, sucker was $30 for one time use, went back to the garage and wam bam thank you ma'am! rear hubs are off, no heat needed."

GB SISSON · 05-30-2022, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The insides of that transmission look pretty dang good!

I say that, even though I hate having to look at spur-cut gears . . . as I have never had enough experience driving those old beasts to know how to downshift them wroth a crap - regardless of my feeble double-clutch attempts!

I like SYNCHROS! LOL

Ok, as a guy whose dad was an insurance broker in the city, I bought a ford AA stakebed at age 19. Local guys around the garage and other townies just said 'Ya gotta double clutch that thing'... So I pushed in the clutch twice then shifted the way I had in my 63 VW bug. Over time my upshift got better but not the downshift. I down graded to various Toyotas and other assorted trucks. Flash fwd 25 years or so to trading for a '38 tonner. I daily drove it but it's hilly here.... This is what I found and many T-9s later I stand by. ... Heading up a hill with a load, and you gotta downshift. So in your brain, imagine what the revs will be after you catch 3rd and pre-rev the engine to that kind of rpm in neutral. You are matching the engine to what it will be revving at when you engage 3rd. If you miss it on the first try all bets are off. My acid test was a huge road project at the bottom of Racoon Hollow one summer. All the county guys were leaning on their shovels and watching this kid with a load of logs or beams climbing Flarehty's hill after the stop at the hollow. I had to learn it so I did. One day I pulled the top of the tranny on the 38 thinking it would be a mess of broken teeth and mashed up parts, but it looked like new. I have no Idea what those gears are made of, but kryptonite comes to mind. Don't evet give up on learning to drive a spur cut gear box. It's a joy when it finally sinks in .......

tubman · 05-30-2022, 12:32 AM

Maybe they had better transmissions, but I had a '48 Seagrave pumper with a Pierce-Arrow derived V12 and a 4 speed "crash box" that I could downshift at will. I had always been interested in "double-clutching" and practiced shifting various old cars into first gear while still moving. (I got kicked out of drivers training in high school when I dropped the old '55 Chevy drivers training car into low at about 15 mph right after the Drivers-Ed instructor told us it was impossible.) I got to the point where I could make that old Seagrave do anything I wanted.

It may have had something to do with the truck having only 2300 road miles and it was like new.

Bored&Stroked · 05-30-2022, 09:22 AM

From just a few pics, it looks like your drums and brakes look like they are in pretty good shape. I'd cover the snout and wash all the asbestos out of there with water, then brakeclean (nasty stuff - but it works) and see what you have.

Redpond2 · 06-02-2022, 09:15 PM

small updates on my truck/bigger updates on life,

Got to meet Chris (aka Sugarmaker), great guy and an awesome truck (biased). His pit stop in Bowling Green allowed me to get a real visualization of what I'm missing and how it should be (in the cab particularly), Also; thanks to his keen eye, I found out I likely have a 33-34 pitman arm as it doesn't angle back into the engine bay area quite enough and makes contact with the front brake rod. I also need, again thanks to his keen eye, a front brake wedge stud. as I have one that has worn and lost its outer plate that rides the brake rollers (PN: BB 2051 2 21/32" long and 1/2 x 20 thread for you part number guys) Otherwise nothing jumped out to him that I need to do that I am not already doing.

a quick aside; I highly recommend checking out one of his other hobbies (maple syrup and sauces) can't speak on the syrup just yet but the barbecue sauces I tried are stellar, I'll be ordering some well before I run out, for sure.

got quite a few books in, which lead to more books on order, my 32 ford books came (highly recommend), my "Ford Chassis, Parts, and Accessories catalogue" came in ( extremely valuable in conjunction with the 32 ford books) which led me to order the "the ford, v-eight-B-four, BB-truck" by G. B. Manley. should have that one in a few days with some valuable "How-to's" for this novice. I am in talks with YandZ on wiring, going to give rhode island wiring a call in the morning to check them out. the last few days have been a lot of reading and getting accustomed to the nomenclature and organization style of these books. I'm a pretty good reader, and there was still a learning curve. Here's to hoping the generation after mine can comprehend, may be asking a lot.

VERY much looking forward to tomorrow (Friday) as I get to go down to the early V8 meet in franklin, TN get to give sugarmakers truck another once over, get to meet David G, and hopefully some others that may have been following along. Excited to peruse any vendors or swap meet guys still there who may have some parts I'm hunting for.

did some thinking on what, exactly, I want out of this truck, beyond just getting it on the road. I do not foresee a pristine show piece out of this truck in my future. I think I want it functional as Henry made it. It's a work truck that was worked, hard labor is not conducive to perfection; So, my current plan is to replace as few of parts as possible (and replacing those with as close to original, if not NOS as I can find/afford) while giving it the much needed TLC it screams for. My mentality, on most all things, is "if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing" and for me, this project is worth doing.

Also the radiator shop called today, they were pleasantly surprised, radiator is in good shape- fixed a couple pinhole leaks and fixed my loose strap, fuel tank cleaned up well; fixed a small leak on the seam. we're on the path of getting parts back!

keep truckin',

Nate

DavidG · 06-02-2022, 09:26 PM

Nate,

Great news regarding your radiator! You're fortunate to have a radiator repair resource as like battery shops, radiator shops are disappearing right and left.

Looking forward to seeing you tomorrow.

David

sugarmaker · 06-03-2022, 05:32 PM

Nate,
Was great to see you your uncle and grandfather at the V8 car meet. Weather was great and made more good friends and more truck leads too!
Let me know about the seat frames fitting your gas tank.
Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 06-03-2022, 05:32 PM

oops, double post

Redpond2 · 06-04-2022, 08:43 PM

All,

Had a fantastic time at the meet. A TON of great vehicles. I did, however, keep finding myself eyeballing Michael Driskells gray 36 PU, boy those are sharp.. maybe if I have room someday; and getting a close up view of Davids 32 deluxe coupe was a marvel in itself. I find myself very lucky to have met so many great people, so quickly, in my journey to get my old dump truck going. Maybe, I'll head up to Dearborne for next years meet, if the trucks ready; more on that.

Didn't make it back in town to pick up the tank and radiator from the shop by the time the boys started their weekend so will know more on that this week. Little Man, Everett, and I had a wedding to attend this afternoon (rather short lived with his lack of an afternoon nap and being an outside venue during the heat of the day) So I got to monkey around with the truck today, some, after all.

Had a piece of my driver front brake wedge stud (the "washer" that is swaged on the outside for the rollers to ride on) MIA that Chris noticed on his visit, grandpa had a spare wedge stud that was too short so I made a backyard fix. I make no claim to be a welder, barely a half decent grinder. under the belief that these do not take much pressure and with the knowledge that these are readily available if I am unable to fix it; I went for it. looks good enough for the women I know. will know in due time. checked all the connection points in the mechanical brake system I could solo. they are all pretty tight so far and do not appear to be wallowed out much if any.

monkeyed with the windshield adjustment some and noticed a new number stamp...

on the forward crossmember where they fuel tank sits on the passenger side I found "LE-922-32". Spoke to grandpa on the matter and he said it seems like an assembly date. If consistent with the model A nomenclature, it appears this means the old truck now has a birthday. 9/22/32 out of Louisville. the 32' Ford book indicates Louisville as an assembly plant for the year; that is all the knowledge I currently have on the matter. please correct me if I have any of the details wrong on this!

it would appear, at face, correct as that is the closest assembly branch to where the truck was found and currently resides.

thank you to those whom brought parts down to the show for me, they will be put to good use. Another statement of gratitude to the quieter of you following along. Met a couple who said they hadn't contributed but were following along. I appreciate all the eyes; helps to keep me honest!

Anyway; a few pictures!

petehoovie · 06-04-2022, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redpond2

I appreciate all the eyes; helps to keep me honest!
Anyway; a few pictures!

51504bat · 06-06-2022, 03:51 PM

Not a dump and a '34 not a '32 but this post from over on the FTE might give you some inspiration:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20432395

petehoovie · 06-06-2022, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Not a dump and a '34 not a '32 but this post from over on the FTE might give you some inspiration:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20432395

DavidG · 06-06-2022, 08:11 PM

Hard to say what it is as it is clearly a mixture of a much later, non-Ford (?) cab with a '32 radiator shell, hood, modified front fenders and head lamp bar. The head lamps have distinctly-European lenses (consistent with the location of the photo), but look to be smaller than '32 lamps and are more likely the '35-'37 commercial variety. Likely the chassis is the '32 BB version as well.

Redpond2 · 06-10-2022, 08:37 PM

Update on the truck friends-

Was out of state on business all week so not much tinkering. managed to amass are large pile of boxes full of books, parts and rebuild kits. a couple questions.

the brass bushing in the water pump need to be pressed out correct?

On the steering column ignition housing there is a pin on the closest side to the driver seat. that will need to be drilled out I assume, what is a good replacement for that for easier access in the future?

Got my engine to the rebuilder and he, almost immediately, noticed some things that I had missed. one cylinder has some pitting that will be below the second piston ring, going to try not to bore it out but may have to and upon removal of the timing cover ( I had not done that) found the cam gear to be chewed up pretty bad. He expects more to be found upon further digging. My simple valve job is definitely turning into a more substantial investment into the engine.

Oh well, fully anticipated a rebuild when I was pulling the truck out of the barn. Better to get it done right now than to have to pull it again in a couple years.

On a lighter note; Chris's seat frame test fit went well, gas tank has been reinstalled and plumbed. did some cleaning on the fuel sending unit, is there a good way to clean those tubes and bench test?

Thanks all

tomcarman · 06-10-2022, 11:21 PM

I've been following this with much interest watching what real mechanics can do. I'm very impressed with the knowledge and progress both you and Chris, aka Sugar maker have done to keep these not only preserved but back in service. I applaud you. On a side note in my area an insurance company last year put a 32,33,34? I don't know anything about it other than I saw them setting it up for display as I was going into town. It appears to be a duelly and when they were getting it ready for their advertising display they built a flatbed with flower boxes on the bed. At the risk of hijacking this thread if you are interested in seeing pictures of it I'd be happy to stop and get some. From the road it looks like a rust bucket but I've not been close to it and I am curious just what year it actually is. With your permission I'll get some pics and post them in this thread.
Tom

totto · 06-11-2022, 07:08 AM

I have a 1937 1 1/2 dump truck with PTO and hydraulic made by Garwood. Truck has 39,000miles . So if you need further "info", let me know. Was owned by a Bank in NYC and used on their property about 75 miles North of NYC. Was only used to haul garbage and yard waste to dump.

Henry

Redpond2 · 06-11-2022, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomcarman

I've been following this with much interest watching what real mechanics can do. I'm very impressed with the knowledge and progress both you and Chris, aka Sugar maker have done to keep these not only preserved but back in service. I applaud you. On a side note in my area an insurance company last year put a 32,33,34? I don't know anything about it other than I saw them setting it up for display as I was going into town. It appears to be a duelly and when they were getting it ready for their advertising display they built a flatbed with flower boxes on the bed. At the risk of hijacking this thread if you are interested in seeing pictures of it I'd be happy to stop and get some. From the road it looks like a rust bucket but I've not been close to it and I am curious just what year it actually is. With your permission I'll get some pics and post them in this thread.
Tom

I am no master in the shop, I’m a simple parts swapper. Lucky enough to have some pros around that will take my money when I get too deep into something! Go ahead and post some pics. If it has a fuel cab just below the windshield it’s an AA. If not and If it’s firewall is bolted then it is a 32, riveted it’s newer. Also the rear of the cab looks different between 32/33. Also 33 there is a brace in your door panel close to the lower door hinge. 32’s do not have that. I believe in 33 they went back to a foot start button rather than the pull cable. The firewall and rear of cab was the easiest way I was able to tell my year at a glance. There are many many other difference but I’m still a novice in the hobby. There’s a few guys on here who could tell you if you have the correct cotter pins or not.

Post pics for some inspiration though!

Totto- thank you, I believe that from 32-37 there was a ton of changes. Not sure how similar the two trucks would be. I’ll let you know if I find myself in a pickle. Thanks

DavidG · 06-11-2022, 11:54 AM

Nate,

In your photo of your water pump housing, please note the worn area to the left of the front of the housing. This is the result of the fan pulley moving rearward and wearing against the pump housing. The root cause is at the very back of the water pump impeller where it seats into a pocket in the casting of the cylinder head. Normally there should be a big fiber washer between the back of the impeller that interfaces with the pocket in the cylinder head to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Over time the fiber washer is worn to oblivion, the face of the pocket in the cylinder is worn, and the bearing surface on the back of the impeller is worn or all three and then the impeller starts to move back and forth when the engine is running, which speeds up the wear and eventually the fan pulley will wear right through the front of the water pump housing or worse with the castle nut on the front end of the pump shaft intermittently taking chunks out of the back of the radiator.

When you rebuild the water pump and assemble it to the cylinder head, there must be no free play fore and aft of the pump shaft. (Yes, the big brass bushing is pressed into the cast iron pump housing.)

I normally dissolve dried up old gasoline residue with lacquer thinner and then soak the entire fuel gauge tank unit in metal prep, followed by a thorough drying to ensure that all of the internal passages are free as the gauge works on differential air pressure built up by varying amounts of fuel in the tank.

sugarmaker · 06-11-2022, 06:55 PM

Nate,
Good progress on your "Red Truck". The engine does not surprise me, its 90 ish years old!
Was the Babbit and thrust good on your engine? Good luck with the engine evaluation.

I did several bandaid fixes on my waterpump rebuild/refurb. Items from Renners and Snyder's, got it back working but still not as Henery made it.

I will try to work on the seat frame for you. Keep after me! I believe I saved enough Ash lumber for that drivers side spring seat frame.

Keep hitting at it, and tell your grandfather and grandmother Hi from us!
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 06-13-2022, 08:45 PM

Thanks David- yes I did know to watch out for wear on that front grease channel. It does have some but nothing inhibitive of its function. My rear “cup” on the head looks pretty good. Chris looked at it while he was in town and was surprised. I do not know how much aft play it has as I did not check it. Still waiting to get to grandpas press, as time permits, so may put it back together with original parts and check. May go ahead and rebuild and assess once all new parts are in. I will let you guys know.

Been looking at my ignition drop assembly. Trying to get it off. Rebuilt kit from renners does not include a replacement for the “pinch bolt” that I can tell and either way it will need to slide off the top or bottom of the shaft. My question is, how do you get this off? Drop the steering box, remove horn rod, remove steering wheel? Or is there supposed to be an easier way? I have not had much luck on the forum or internet or my intuition on how to get this solo for rebuild and I want to avoid drilling unless I have to.

Got the tank primed and painted, did some cleaning on water pump, fuel sending unit, and put an eye on all brake rod pivot points (checked for play with no one at the pedal) they all look good but the test will be putting someone (likely grandpa) to pumping the pedal.

Small moves while engine is away at the model T/A/B block whisperer. Wish I could show you guys the crazy projects he has going on in there. Blew my mind what he could do to a T engine.

Hope as is well and everyone’s keeping cool, we had ~104 actual temp today. Hot by anyones standards!

-Nate

DavidG · 06-13-2022, 09:36 PM

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Nate,

There's no easy way to remove the steering column support bracket (drop). The light switch rod/horn button assembly needs to be removed and the steering wheel. That pinch bolt at the bottom of the bracket originally had a twist off head and short of having the slick period K.R. Wilson tool designed just for removing what is left of that bolt after the head is twisted off, you need to get creative. Before I had the good fortune to find one of those tools, I would drill three small overlapping holes in a line in the bolt head of sufficient size to permit the insertion of a hefty screwdriver blade. Then with perhaps a little heat and a crescent wrench on the blade of the screwdriver unscrew the remains of the bolt. Michael Driskell can supply a new bolt when it is time to put the bracket back together. You may need to spread the bottom of the bracket a small amount to ease thee bracket off the steering column tube.

If you have no key for the lock and it is the "off" and locked position, that's a different additional exercise on top of removing the 'pinch' bolt at the bottom.

P.S. Since one never knows when and why it may become necessary to work on the steering column down the road, I do not follow Ford's original practice. I do not twist the head off the new pinch bolt. I believe that the thinking with that bolt was that by having what became a headless bolt in that application after the head was twisted off it somehow deterred theft. But given what's left to be dealt with before the truck could be moved if it was locked would take a whale of a lot of time to accomplish

sugarmaker · 06-14-2022, 04:22 PM

Nate,
I can't help a bit. The completeness of my truck has allowed me to avoid ( at this time) some of the areas your working on.
Has your machine shop given you an indication of possible engine completion? Or still in disassembly/ evaluation phase? Either way your doing the right thing by getting the engine in good shape. You staying with babbit if it checks out ok? Lots of dollars to change to insert bearings as I am doing. But hoping you find good things in the 90 year old engine.
By the way temp is 78 here, with light breeze.
Good night to take the 32 for a spin!
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 06-15-2022, 08:52 PM

Hey guys- not a lot of progress on the truck since the last post, plans have changed somewhat though!

With my engine needing more work than was previously thought, my retired machinist has decided it’s more of a project he wants to tackle at the moment. No problem, I’m extremely appreciative of the expert eye’s inspection and diagnosis. With that knowledge; grandpa and I, mostly I with direction, will be tackling this engine.

Grandpa does have a test stand with auxiliary fuel and it’s own radiator to bench test once we get some work done so that will be helpful before final assembly!

Got the fuel tank primed and painted, new fuel shutoff valve, and the cleaned fuel sending unit installed ready for final assembly. Currently the best looking part of the truck and it’ll be mostly hidden by the seat! Haha

Looking at a “cold front” this weekend (high of 90-ish) then back up next week. Also, the Holley hot rod event is in town this weekend so, time allowing, may head over to it and check out the swap meet. May stumble upon some miscellaneous stuff I am searching for. Worst case, I spend $25 to look at a bunch of “go fast” parts and get to see some cool old cars. I’ve spent far more on lesser things..

Hoping to make some solid progress Saturday on the old truck and I plan on updating you guys then.

-Nate

sugarmaker · 06-16-2022, 06:25 AM

Nate,
As we spoke, that is a slight change of direction on the engine work. But on a positive note you will learn an lot and understand your engine much better. I built the side adaptor for my B engine yesterday. Maybe your Grandfather has one for doing A type engines? So far after one half of a rev I like it. That may make your work on the engine much easier.
I will put up some pictures in my ragged ol truck thread.
Mark the components, bag and tag fastners, evaluate, measure, view, clean, and correct any issues, and start putting it back. Sounds easy. Remember its just nuts and bolts!
Thanks for sending some of that heat our way too. NOT!

Next year maybe you can take your truck to the Hot Rod show??

Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 06-17-2022, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate,
As we spoke, that is a slight change of direction on the engine work. But on a positive note you will learn an lot and understand your engine much better. I built the side adaptor for my B engine yesterday. Maybe your Grandfather has one for doing A type engines? So far after one half of a rev I like it. That may make your work on the engine much easier.
I will put up some pictures in my ragged ol truck thread.
Mark the components, bag and tag fastners, evaluate, measure, view, clean, and correct any issues, and start putting it back. Sounds easy. Remember its just nuts and bolts!
Thanks for sending some of that heat our way too. NOT!

Next year maybe you can take your truck to the Hot Rod show??

Regards,
Chris

Thanks Chris for some progress pics- I’ve never been a good picture taker; years of grandma and cousin needing 80 pictures each for every gathering has slowly soured me to getting my phone out. Need to get better! Don’t worry, we’re keeping most of the heat down our way!

Some good news and some bad news- I have most of tomorrow spotted for truck work. Been needing some time in the garage! In prepping I was able to get the steering column out of the truck, letting the steering wheel soak tonight to try and remove tomorrow so I can the ignition drop assembly off and start rebuilding it. The bad news… someone’s tried this before. Got a bent, and slightly kinked, horn rod. Searching the barn I see few threads on repairing these and they don’t look promising. Any tips, anyone, on trying to straighten one or a lead on a good one if this is a poor endeavor? I have a couple ideas but not sure on efficacy of even trying.

Have all my seals together for the brakes and plenty rebuild kits waiting their turn. Trying not to get too many “mini projects” going at the same time so as not to get confused. A good chunk of my friends think I’m crazy for taking on a project of this size for it not to even “go fast” I’m making a list for when they ask for rides, we’ll see who has the last laugh!

On a side note: bought a new excavator this week, these new bobcats are pretty sweet!

sugarmaker · 06-18-2022, 10:09 AM

Nate,
Congrats on the excavator! Not sure how that will be used on the 32? But I am sure it could be handy?

Your in lots of truck areas where I have no clue how to help other than point you back to here on the barn with others that may have worked on the steering wheel rod issue.
Is it just bent? Maybe gently bend it back??
Thanks for the update on the Big Red truck!
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 06-18-2022, 01:02 PM

Chris,

Worth a try, but usually once one of those rods is bent, it is time to look for a replacement. The thin wall thickness does not lend itself to straightening.

cmbrucew · 06-18-2022, 05:31 PM

Long bed lathe and a little heat on the bends SLOWLY.

Bruce

Redpond2 · 06-23-2022, 07:30 PM

Ford Barner's- some updates and more questions.

Engine has been moved to grandpas shop, cordially known as "the old farts garage"

Got some progress done on the engine disassembly, we're about down to the bare block.

what is the best method of getting the guides out? I assume they are to be driven out upward from the bottom of the engine and I assume there is a fair amount of patience and lubrication needed. is heat recommended?

-I got a nice side mount engine stand bracket from the retired machinist at a fair price and that has proven to be invaluable thus far.

-got the pinch bolt for the column ignition assembly out with an extractor bit but the steering wheel is proving to be a PITA even with a model A wheel puller tool. I've worked it to a point where some threads are boogered (nothing a quick thread file won't fix but I gotta get the thing off first!) can heat be applied here or will the bentonite material fall apart?

-worked on the head studs some today. was patient enough on the first 2 and the third one snapped flush with the block; and it wasn't even the one that looked the worst. cursed across the shop and decided to let them soak another day or two with penetrant and give them a few more heat cycles.

While there was able to help grandpa some on his old model T; he cleaned the carb up and I ran some fuel line he couldn't get to. happy to pay my rent for the workspace in installments.

some discoveries on this old engine with new pistons... It likely wouldn't have ran with them in it. I don't have a dial indicator but with some quick math and a micrometer we found the cylinder walls to be ~.030 out of spec and found some weird wear on the STD size pistons. likely from piston slap when it was cranked over. there is one ridge that catches a nail on cylinder 3 very low on the wall.

So this will most likely need some boring done to it and I will order the proper fitting pistons and rings then. I have a bunch of seals, valve kit, head studs/nuts on the way, camshaft gear and socket for it (my cam gear nut looks to have never seen a chisel), and single lock tappets coming. should be here tomorrow.

Grandpa said it well "engine won't win any beauty contests but she'll run!" finding pretty solid babbitt's and an overall good core engine. she was in need of a good rebuild though! these guides concern me as they're pretty crusty and we will just have to see how many head studs I break.

Some pictures of the engine disassembly process:

Bob C · 06-23-2022, 07:55 PM

The valve guides come out through the bottom. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8797&cat=41753

DavidG · 06-23-2022, 08:05 PM

Nate,

The valve guides insert into the block from the bottom up so they are removed downward, not upward. Snyder's have a replica of one of the effective original tools to remove the guides.

Judging from your photos, you won the lottery as that's a counterbalanced crankshaft. With everything else up to snuff, your engine will idle all the way down to about 200 RPM without a hiccup and will be smoother running over its entire operating range.

I note that Bob C beat me to it regarding the value guide removal tool at Snyder's and even provided a photo from their catalog. Thanks, Bob.

sugarmaker · 06-23-2022, 08:35 PM

Nate,
Good update on the big red truck! Good that it has the better crank! I think your on your way! I have a guide tool if you need it. Sounds like you have most of the parts you need. Check thrust and the rear oil passage back into pan. Small pipe on rear main.
Hope the babbit us good enough to run as is.
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 06-23-2022, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

The valve guides come out through the bottom. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8797&cat=41753

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Nate,

The valve guides insert into the block from the bottom up so they are removed downward, not upward. Snyder's have a replica of one of the effective original tools to remove the guides.

Judging from your photos, you won the lottery as that's a counterbalanced crankshaft. With everything else up to snuff, your engine will idle all the way down to about 200 RPM without a hiccup and will be smoother running over its entire operating range.

I note that Bob C beat me to it regarding the value guide removal tool at Snyder's and even provided a photo from their catalog.

Thanks Bob and David, this leads to a question then.. and just thinking this out before I get there. the valves are mushroomed at the bottom, does this mean at the uppermost travel limit of the valve the guides slip in and tool to install?

When driving them that will effectively be closing the valve, I assume there’s enough room to get the guides out and have room for a punch before valve closes too much. I guess I’ll find out pretty quick when I get there

EDIT- upon further inspection of the tool I can just hit the top of valves, all questions answered haha. A little look goes a long way!

Redpond2 · 06-23-2022, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate,
Good update on the big red truck! Good that it has the better crank! I think your on your way! I have a guide tool if you need it. Sounds like you have most of the parts you need. Check thrust and the rear oil passage back into pan. Small pipe on rear main.
Hope the babbit us good enough to run as is.
Regards,
Chris

Chris- yes I left out those details! There’s no thrust movement and babbitts looks more than good enough to run. I’ll check the rear oil passage. Like I said a real good core engine. Solid foundation to build on.

Hope all is well up in your neck of the woods. I appreciate you looking for some wheels for me, I MAY have a lead on some. Waiting on a FB message back, we will see!

Thanks-

sugarmaker · 06-24-2022, 06:51 AM

Nate,
All good here! Just working on a old B engine like you! Have you deccided to regrind your valves and seats and use the current valves? That would be good from a cost savings also. Your doing good! You got the tool figured out quick. Yep smak the top of the valve after the removal tool is in place. Surprised you grandfather doesnt have one of these tools?
Seat frame, just popped into my head too! Have to plane the boards. Maybe a diversion project for me, but still 32 related.
Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 06-25-2022, 07:52 AM

Nate,
Some shots of your drivers seat frame as it starts to take shape.

Test fit on my gas tank. I know your a ways from needing this to go down the road. Just trying to keep things moving for you.

Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 06-27-2022, 05:28 PM

Nate,
Began assembly of your drivers seat frame. Man I hope this matches the one you have!
Kreg pocket screws with glued joints:
Prototype here:

Another mock on my truck tank:

New DeWalt sander worked very well:

The finished product:

Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 07-02-2022, 10:39 AM

Barners- some progress and some questions!

valve guide tool made quick work of what was left of engine teardown. really an invaluable tool. We are down to a bare block except for the few babbitts for main crank and camshaft that are going to stay which brings me to my question.. I've done some reading on how to clean a block to keep bearings intact. Kerosene and mineral spirits with some elbow grease seems to be best way to clean while preserving the babbitt.

block got its first kerosene bath last night and we got a lot of crud off. I have access to a hot water pressure washer that will likely be my "final pass" cleaning before going to the machine shop.

My question refers to cleaning the water passages. from what I have read my plan is to mechanically clean with clothes hanger and air. also read once mechanical cleaning is done you can plug the water inlet and fill with muriatic acid to eat any scale or rust then flush with baking soda/water to neutralize the acid. any first hand experience using acid to get a deep clean on these water passages? any precautions I should keep an eye out for, or any other methods for cleaning that you guys would recommend? I am all ears. (I did read one source that claimed the block may have been coated from the factory with a material, glyptol, to seal the cast irons porosity, and that the acid will eat this coating. this is my only concern with using the acid).

david, do you have any knowledge of the coating above?

Got the water pump rebuilt last night as well, with modern bearing, just got to put the fan on.

Also got the driver side seat frame in from sugar maker. Fit is great and craftsmanship far exceeds what I could have done. thank you Chris, I greatly appreciate your help!

Have the seat springs on order from Snyders, and plenty of other parts here ready to be put together/rebuild/get installed, in the time the engine is getting machine work done. No slowing down here!

Enjoy the 4th everyone, I plan on doing as little as possible!

DavidG · 07-02-2022, 03:10 PM

Nate,

Glyptal is a coating perhaps best known for being used on the inside of electrical transformers. Performance automotive engine builders often use it to coat the water and oil passages inside of cylinder heads and blocks to lessen surface friction. As it is red, it is hard to miss so the likelihood of it not being noticed is low, unless it was washed away over time or never there in the first place. My experience suggests the latter. I do use it, but not in the inside of blocks and cylinder heads, but rather to coat the inside of '32 V8 aluminum oil pans whose aluminum is very porous to the extent that they will literally sweat oil.

Even a well worn B engine tends to run within its design temperature range, so I think that Glyptal in a B block and heads would be nice, but likely overkill. Instead I would tend to focus on the radiator in terms of its cleanliness and free flow. Despite then and there evidence of cooling issues with the V8s and the relative absence of recorded cooling issues for the fours, the only extra cooling radiator offered by Ford during the 1932 Model year was for Model B commercial vehicles and trucks. Instead of having three rows of tubes, it had four rows, like a V8 radiator. It was only offered through service and only late in the model year. (Which is another way of saying it's rarely encountered these days.) If you find a usable one or your truck already has one, great, but you'll do fine if you do not.

The best to you and your family on the Fourth.

sugarmaker · 07-03-2022, 01:41 PM

Nate,
Glad you received the seat frame. It looks pretty good from here!

. Hope the springs fit too. We can surely thank David G. for the dimensions on these frames. You will need to find some stiff material between the frame and springs . Add holes as required for clearance and air movement.
Your engine is looking good.
Regards,
Chris
.

Redpond2 · 07-11-2022, 07:41 PM

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Barners,

Little updates. Seat springs have arrived. I customized them as sugar maker did for the sole fact that when I sat in his, it felt good. I am one of the shorter people I know, so if I’m comfortable with the seating position back a bit I can only imagine the uncomfort taller/bigger people could have in there. We’ve got a good local upholstery shop so I’ll be going by there soon to go over color and schedule. How did these originally come black faux leather? Surely these work trucks didn’t come with gen-u-wine leather.

Took the block and pistons by the machine shop.. machinist laughed a little. Pistons, reminder brand new, measured standard and cylinder walls, at the top, are wore out to ≈.017 over .020 probably won’t give us enough to make it; so we’re going .030 over to be safe.

Once the block and seats are off to the professionals I’ll be focusing back on the stuff I can handle in my garage. Many questions sure to come!

sugarmaker · 07-12-2022, 07:01 AM

Nate,
This sounds like a good plan! Have you picked a material hardboard? for the frame covering? Iused luan plywood but that was not what Ford used.
David G can probably has the suggestion for correct materials for the seats. I just picked a pleather the I liked.
You have plenty to do with out the truck! Take a breath and have some fun also.
Always good getting a update on the you and the "big red truck"!
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 08-04-2022, 08:03 PM

Hey all, more small updates. Engine is off at the machine shop and seats are about ready to head to the upholsterer’s. Other than that I’ve been parts collecting and working my tail off in the real world! Sales have been good so making hay while the suns shining.

Off to Fargo, ND next week for a business trip so if anyone is in the area and enjoys a cold beer and a young whipper snapper asking far too many questions I think I can make something happen.

A good question came up in a recent conversation with sugarmaker; my map pocket is oriented straight up and down while his at an approximate 45 degree angle. Is there any consistency with these and if so, which way is correct? I realize this may be splitting hairs, but the nights are getting longer and my gears rarely stop turning..

Hope everyone is doing well!

Lawson Cox · 08-04-2022, 08:42 PM

Did the 32 dump come with a map pocket? My 35 Avatar didn't, but it has one now.

DavidG · 08-04-2022, 08:49 PM

In the distant past I did run across the engineering drawing for the cowl trim panel with the so-called "dispatch box" (Ford's era terminology) attached and it was at an angle, not upright. That makes sense given the position of the panel on the inner cowl side. The angle making access to the box easier.

sugarmaker · 08-05-2022, 07:10 AM

Folks,
Thanks for the comments for both Nate and I. Yes my dispatch box is at about a 45 degree angle on the passengers side panel in front of the door. I will be making new panels as mine are in very ragged shape. Nate reminde me that his are in pretty good shape still, which was a indicator that they may have been replaced once in the big RED trucks life. I can now sleep better at night also!
Nate you have been making great progress! Lots of irons in the fire to keep turning. We will keep the fire going for you!
Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 08-05-2022, 07:15 AM

Nate,
Forgot to ask are you putting in new valves/ lifters? If you go with adjustable lifters, it is advised to lower the casting towers for the lifters. That will allow easier adjustment of the lifters with wranches. Couldnt remember what direction you were going in that area of the engine build.
Regards,
Chris

Redpond2 · 01-24-2023, 09:08 PM

All,

Update on the old truck. Engine is back from the machine shop and assembly has begun. crank and rod bearings are shimmed, oil return tube is ordered, adjustable tappets are ordered as well. Once those parts are in we will hopefully be able to get this old engine back in running order.

Looking forward to getting this old unit on the road this year. Aside from some small bits the only other major purchase, I believe, will be tires.

sugarmaker · 01-25-2023, 02:41 PM

Nate,
Good to hear about your engine! Looking forward to updates. This has original babbit, so were the crank diameters in good shape?
Regards,
Chris

05-16-2022, 09:37 PM	#6
cmbrucew Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: North of sandy ago, CA. Posts: 2,064	Re: 1932 BB Dump Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Congratulations Redpond Welcome to the fordbarn. Very nice truck What part of this country do you call home? Bruce __________________ Works good Lasts long time

05-16-2022, 09:52 PM	#8
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,567	Re: 1932 BB Dump By golly, you and Sugar Maker are gonna be good friends ! cool truck, welcome to the barn !

05-16-2022, 10:03 PM	#9
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: 1932 BB Dump Great looking truck. It's hard to tell in the pictures but it looks like the cylinders may have bee sleeved back to STD.

05-16-2022, 10:04 PM	#10
GB SISSON Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Orcas Island Washington Posts: 4,914	Re: 1932 BB Dump A hearty welcome to you Redpond! I'm a real fan of the bigger trucks and have a lot of history with them, including hauling home a surface rust red '32 AA when I was in my early 40's. Seeing your photos was like deja-vu all over again. Can't wait to follow your progress, and what an amazing engine that thing has! Holy crap. And yes, what state are you in? __________________ Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1947 Tonner Pickup (red) mostly stock with exception of a cummins 6at turbo diesel, 1946 Tonner Pickup (green) with 226 cu in 6 cyl flathead, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, completely encased in 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. Ok, cornbinder rear fenders..... 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)

05-16-2022, 10:31 PM	#11
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Hi Redpond, Welcome to the barn. As you likely gathered from Chris's thread, I sort of like '32 Fords, all shapes, sizes, and countries of origin and how can I not like your neat truck hidden away in what for once what actually looks like a real barn. It looks pretty complete with a few typical things missing like the horn, original head lamps, rear view mirror bracket and no doubt others, but no show stoppers; its condition looks remarkable. One of its features that is not often encountered on trucks sold in North America is the spare tire mounted in the left front fender rather than the typical mounting opposite the driver. The engine looks to be a real prize as it has a counterbalanced crankshaft which the truck's original engine likely did not have. Judging from your photos, the cylinder block was sleeved, hence the standard bore pistons. As for literature, you're lucky as a lot of 1932 Ford literature survives in both its original and reprinted form. There are four pieces that I consider essential building blocks and all have been reprinted at one time or another and they and original examples show up on ebay and Amazon regularly or are available new from parts dealers. They are: the '32 four-cylinder owners manual, the '32 Service Bulletins, the 1928-32 chassis parts catalog, and the 1932 body parts catalog. Ask Chris if he thinks it is worthwhile, but if he does, the two-volume spiral bound 620 page "The 1932 Ford Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide" published by The Early Ford V8 Club of America treats Model B fours on an equal footing with the V8s and whether you restore it or leave your truck basically as is, you likely find more than enough in its pages to make it a worthwhile purchase.

05-16-2022, 08:21 PM	#2
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 8,988	Re: 1932 BB Dump Welcome aboard! Your truck is cool! Me? I'd leave the patina. You'll find there is one resident '32 GURU, David, here on the barn. Listen to the man's advice __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

05-16-2022, 08:25 PM	#3
Newc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,480	Re: 1932 BB Dump Lube the door hinges real well-avoid breaking doors. Don't worry about wheels-they will show up. Lots of good parts there. Burned '32 came home. Newc

05-16-2022, 09:41 PM	#7
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,074	Re: 1932 BB Dump [QUOTE=Redpond2;2130199 enough with the monologue. enjoy the pictures, I look forward to any help given.[/QUOTE] __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0

05-17-2022, 07:06 AM	#12
corvette8n Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY Posts: 2,943	Re: 1932 BB Dump Great find welcome to the barn.

05-17-2022, 07:35 AM	#13
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump Redpond, From one newbie to another welcome to the Ford Barn. With the good folks here you wont be a newbie for long! Wow your truck is wonderful! We probably will need to talk at some point too. PM me and we can share info. Your engine internals look like it has been freshened not to long ago. The truck looks really good. As David mentioned I thought I saw the hardware fore the spare on the drivers side too?? I am afraid I will have a whole bunch of questions. Like if they did mount the spare there how the heck did they get in and out? I guess just from the pass side? Which actually makes sense. Because the key for the doors is on the pass side and the gas filler is one the pass side too. On the seats. Well David helped me understand the seat frame design. I built my seat frames. I got my 32 truck custom seat springs from Snyder's. (the custom part was to give me a little more room in the cab) The wheels? I had a lead in northwest Ohio some time ago and dropped it because mine came together ok. I might be able to dig that up, but dont hold your breath. Be very careful taking the rings off the rims as to not distort them any more than nessesary. Tires tubes and flaps? I had to get items from different suppliers, to get what I wanted. You plans and goals sound like what most of us want to do. Get this thing running stopping and driving! I have been playing with mine for a year! Still have much to do. I will try to help where I can. So many folks have helped me with questions and parts! Let us know where your located that may help track down some things too. My long winding thread on my truck is doing exactly what I intended getting others to get there projects moving along. You dump bed is different than the Garwood or the Gallion beds that I have seen. It may be a later one? Is it hydraulic lift. By the way any recommendations from David G. are to be recognized as providing light on your project from someone that has been there done that and "wrote the books" on the 32 Fords! Looking forward to following your progress too. Pictures? You did a great job. I am trying to get photobucket to work for me again. I like using a third party hosting site. and posting pis at 800 x 450 ish pixel size. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets Last edited by sugarmaker; 05-17-2022 at 07:42 AM.

05-17-2022, 07:53 AM	#14
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump Redpond, My best guess from your pictures is that your in Kentucky? How close am I? Off to work on old stuff Maybe take the 32 for a spin if the roads are dry. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

05-17-2022, 10:18 AM	#18
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,302	Re: 1932 BB Dump Never in my life would have thought that I'd want my own dump truck. First "Sugarmaker" and now this. I'm getting the urge.

05-17-2022, 12:06 PM	#19
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,062	Re: 1932 BB Dump Welcome on board - looks like a great Truck project and Sugarmaker and you are bound to be fast friends! LOL The engine looks to me like it was rebuilt sometime very shortly before the truck was parked. It looks like I can still see a bunch of "lubriplate" around the rods/journals, on the front cam gear, etc.. If the piston tops were actually that clean - then it has not been ran at all. Did you clean them up?

05-17-2022, 08:02 PM	#21
KDL Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Central MA Posts: 186	Re: 1932 BB Dump Redpond2, Very cool truck. Good luck on getting her going down the road.

05-17-2022, 09:23 PM	#22
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump Redpond2, Your picture at the gas station had a sign for 31E. There are several places where that road number appears. But the trucks at the gas station do not have front licence plates. Which narrowed it to KY. You can't hide! Looking forward to talking with you about your truck. Please do not think I am a 32 expert. I just own this old truck similar to yours. They are unique for sure. Learning about them every day. Took mine to the local hardware store and for a ride at sunset. Really like the experience. Just not a long distance machine. Are you near Bowling Green? Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets Last edited by sugarmaker; 05-17-2022 at 09:29 PM.

05-17-2022, 11:09 PM	#23
Dick Webber Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bowling Green KY Posts: 337	Re: 1932 BB Dump Well I am Grandpa to Redpond2. I am a preservationist, Owner of Fords from T to Pinto, and a 61 year Model A owner. I was so pleased with his interest in this truck, and in its preservation. It is truly a rare find. I am also pleased with your interest and support in his project. Believe me, I know how important it is. So thank you all for your help. I haven’t been in the Barn for awhile, but I’ll be back for sure. I even got the first ride in the truck as he pushed it up a steep hill into his garage with a Bobcat. As I write this I’m even wearing a Ford Barn shirt! Great to be back. This is an exciting (and very big) project. Thank you!

05-18-2022, 08:05 AM	#26
Redpond2 Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Bowling Green, KY Posts: 48	Re: 1932 BB Dump Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Short to-do list: -Get the brakes opened up to inspect -clean the gas tank and free up fuel shutoff -get wiring harness ordered and ran -reassemble engine with new gasket kit -get top plate of trans off to inspect No new pictures at the moment, hoping to have this truck under its own power in a few weeks. Then starts to sourcing of all the tidbits I’m missing and getting it back together as a comfortable runner

05-18-2022, 09:09 AM	#27
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Please be aware that there is a distinct difference between early and late production four-cylinder wiring harnesses, both for the lighting/horn harness and the engine compartment/instrument panel harness. I raise this subject given that your engine number is sort of mid-year production and the best reproduction wiring source (Rhode Island Wiring) for '32 fours (in my opinion) has a current lead time of about four months. Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need. Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column. I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration. Last edited by DavidG; 05-18-2022 at 09:30 AM. Reason: additional information

05-18-2022, 10:09 AM	#28
51504bat Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: SoCal-Redlands Posts: 3,009	Re: 1932 BB Dump A couple of thoughts. First instead of PB Blaster try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Second, given the lead time quoted for Rhode Island Wiring you might want to check out YandZ wiring. Quality original wiring and the around might be less if you you're in a hurry. JMO https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ __________________ Making the simple complicated for over 30 years.

05-18-2022, 10:54 AM	#29
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump One big drawback with YandZ according to their online catalog is that they are evidently unaware of the major mid-year changes in '32 four cylinder electrical/wiring systems.

05-18-2022, 02:44 PM	#31
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump Redpond2, You have a good plan. Very nice that you have your grandfather to look over your shoulder too! I have traveled to Bowling Green several times. We stayed there when we went to visit Michael at Third Gen. When I was working the company would send me and others to the manufacturer plant in Bowling Green. Good meals at Rafferty's! You have a better chance than me to get your truck running. My engine #1, was very tired. Engine #2 was similar. So I had the brakes and seats refurbed, while the engine was made ready. Lots of moves, lots of learning, lots of fun! Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

05-18-2022, 03:48 PM	#32
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,074	Re: 1932 BB Dump Make it look like these > https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=193...ages&ia=images __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0 Last edited by petehoovie; 05-18-2022 at 08:09 PM.

05-18-2022, 04:43 PM	#33
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Well, sort of, as that is a '33.

05-19-2022, 10:12 AM	#38
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump Redpond2, We will keep you busy just answering questions and posting pictures! Your engine compartment is way too clean! Just joking that is a good thing. If you find a nos starter knob and cable get one for me. Don't rush too much! Parts could be a issue, but lots of folks watching you and your truck. Really happy that your working on this. Keep life in perspective. It's a little easier for some of us older retired folks. BTW good pictures! Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

05-20-2022, 06:52 AM	#39
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Pete, You rascal; you switched the photo from a red '33 to a very handsome blue '32!

05-20-2022, 12:17 PM	#42
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Robert, The horn, however, is for a Model A, including where it is attached.

05-21-2022, 04:17 PM	#44
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump You guys are awesome! Has me looking and thinking, and I can barely tell them all apart! That blue dump is very nice. I expect Redpond2's dump may look something like that in a year or so! If things work out I would like to drool on his truck in BG in a week or so! Anyone see a dump like he has? Wait,,,,,listen,,,, does he have that B engine running?? I would have tried to fire mine up if it would have looked half that clean and fresh. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

05-21-2022, 07:06 PM	#45
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump There were three different sets of hood sides used in U.S. production during the '32 model year. The first was a true twenty louver set, short lived due to its flimsiness, followed by the twenty louver hood with only the forward-most nineteen louvers actually open, and then the twenty-five louver variety late in the model year. The hood side in Pete's photo is likely the twenty/really nineteen variety which is by far the most common. Not likely realized by many is the commonality of sheet metal and other components of '32s across the various categories of vehicles from the cowl forward. At any point in time during the model year, whatever hood version was in use in production was used on the passenger cars, commercial vehicles, and big trucks. The same goes for the firewall and front fenders (excluding big truck fenders with wells for side-mounted spares), the apron below the radiator shell, the radiator shell and grille and head lamps and head lamp bar (passenger cars and deluxe versions of commercial vehicles and big trucks). That practice ended abruptly with the start of the '33 model year.

05-21-2022, 08:21 PM	#47
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Nathan, Please do not invest any further effort in that carburetor as it is for a Model A and not for a Model B. There is a real performance difference between them. Dave Renner of Manchester, MI is your best bet for four-cylinder carburetor work (rennerscorner.com). The choke control is more important on a B four than it is on V8, accordingly, please share what you have. Thanks.

05-21-2022, 08:58 PM	#49
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: 1932 BB Dump That also looks like a Model A head gasket, Snyder's has the head gasket. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...3956&cat=41691 I don't think anybody makes a head gasket shaped like the originals. See the link to Vince's site. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABc...asketguide.htm

05-21-2022, 09:15 PM	#51
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Your second carburetor has the general appearance of the original, but appears to have die cast construction rather than cast iron. I'll see if I have any spares. Unfortunately the end of your choke cable has been modified to fit that Model A carburetor in your early photos. There appears to be enough left of the original tip to bring it back to its original length and shape (half round without a notch). Yes, Vince's site is outstanding and worth investing time in navigating it. We disagree on a few details, but nothing fundamental.

05-21-2022, 09:32 PM	#52
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: 1932 BB Dump The other carburetor you have is a Marvel Schebler / Allstate, Renner's has parts for them.

05-21-2022, 10:33 PM	#54
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump That 34 1/2" (actually 34 1/4") measurement is for the B-9700 cable assembly which is for passenger cars. BB-9700 was 32 3/4" and for the vehicles with shorter cowls (commercial vehicles and your truck). So what you have is the right starting point. It can get a bit confusing with your truck having a mixture of parts with B part number prefixes and BB prefixes.

05-22-2022, 11:18 AM	#56
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,093	Re: 1932 BB Dump Except for the bulb socket, your dash light set up is not original so what you need are the early wiring harnesses (engine compartment/instrument panel harness and lamp/horn wiring harness). Also add the ammeter to your wanted list as the one there is not an original '32 ammeter, nor even usable.

05-22-2022, 02:09 PM	#58
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,676	Re: 1932 BB Dump Nate, Good pictures to start to document what you have, where your going, and where you have been, on the 32 dump truck project! You have the A team working with you. It will take some time but you will get there. I did not see a picture of the carb side of the engine, or missed it. Do you have the distributor? Fuel pump? Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets