Barn find with occupant

[51504bat]

I've had good luck baiting rat traps with hard salami - the kind that comes in a 2" or so diameter roll in the deli. Its greasy so it attracts the rat but its a tight fit in the trap so it isn't easy for the rat to take the bait without springing the trap. Many times I can reuse the piece of salami more than once. And I only use Victor brand traps. Others such as Tom Cat don't seem to work as well. Happy hunting.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I'd pull the back seat cushions out of the car and see if there is access to the trunk through there. Picking some of those old Ford locks is possible but a person needs the right picks to do the job. Ford liked the double sided keys starting back in that era but I'm not sure about 1968. I keep a pick set that has double sided rocker type picks for old Fords so I know they are out there.

Hi, there is some access throught the back seat, but not enought to fit a body through. Plus will all the rat turds and gross stuff in there, I don't think I'll be squirming around too much on the floor of the car any time soon.

Yes, the 1968 has the 2-sided key. I don't know how to pick locks, but I might try to learn! Otherwise I might drill out the lock.

I also heard that the door key should be the same as the trunk key, I could take a door key to a locksmith to have a new key made, and then use it to open the trunk. I'm leaning toward this solution.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Stephenorf

Yes, the 1968 has the 2-sided key. I don't know how to pick locks, but I might try to learn! Otherwise I might drill out the lock.

I also heard that the door key should be the same as the trunk key, I could take a door key to a locksmith to have a new key made, and then use it to open the trunk. I'm leaning toward this solution.

The door and deck lid will have different keys. If you have a locking glove box, the key code should be inscribed on the cylinder.

Could this car be referred to as a RAT ROD ...

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

I've had good luck baiting rat traps with hard salami - the kind that comes in a 2" or so diameter roll in the deli. Its greasy so it attracts the rat but its a tight fit in the trap so it isn't easy for the rat to take the bait without springing the trap. Many times I can reuse the piece of salami more than once. And I only use Victor brand traps. Others such as Tom Cat don't seem to work as well. Happy hunting.

I have the big Tomcat rat traps, and it seems the pin is too tight and allows the rats to eat the PB without springing the trap. I'll try your idea of using a nice juicy piece of salami. I might even put a little dab of mustard near the trap for those fancy Ratatouille types...jk

[Stephenorf]

Update: Kill count is at 4 as of this am. That's for the dead rats I've been able to recover. I'm afraid there may be more dead rats in the trunk as I have a bunch of missing traps and I suspect that more than one wounded rat has manaed to crawl back into the trunk to expire.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by 51504bat

I've had good luck baiting rat traps with hard salami -

What if the little varmints aren't Italian?

Many times I can reuse the piece of salami more than once.

You are cheap ...

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by bobss396

Victor makes some newer plastic snap traps that work well. I had baby rats in my yard last summer... I bagged 4 of them in 2 days. One within minutes of setting the traps out. In all I got 7 of them.

I'm going to buy some new traps this afternoon. The ones with the plastic trays seem to be more sensitive and don't let the rats feed for free. So far I got 4 that I know of. The evidently the small Victor mouse traps just injur the rats and they crawl off with the trap attached to them.

[51504bat]

I always use the large Victor brand rat traps. The smaller mice traps only injure a rat if at all. And always tie a wire to the trap so the rat can't drag it away and die somewhere where you can't get to.

[Stephenorf]

Update: I think I must have go them all. I rebaited the traps yesterday afternoon, and when I checked this morning, they were all untouched. So either the rats are all on diets, or they have all been killed.

Next Step: Open the trunk and start cleaning out all the rat turds and other vermin waste. PU....I recon this is going to be a messy, stinky job.

[rotorwrench]

I'm not sure on the 1968 models but Ford used the same key for the trunk that was also used for the glove box. Ignition keys should operate the door locks. The trunk key is likely H50 type secondary double sided keys for 5 pin locks . This link is to the type of rocker picks but a full set is very expensive and the success rate is only around 80%. I've worn blisters on my fingers trying to open some locks but my success rate is not far from the 80% range. https://www.lockpicks.com/grand-mast...-pick-set.html

It may be less expensive to consult a local lock smith. I purchased both picks and jimmy sets when I started unlocking my own projects years ago so they weren't so expensive back then.

Drilling the lock is an option but you are going to have to put on the respirator and rubber gloves one day to take seats & carpets out and hose up all the crap with the shop vac anyway. The latches have 3-bolts holding them if I remember correctly. most Ford cars are the same in that time frame. Get an extension or a stack of them long enough to reach the latch from the back seat area and take the screws out. The trunk lid should open with the latch free from the bracket. The lock can then be rekeyed with an H50 blank by a lock smith.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I'm not sure on the 1968 models but Ford used the same key for the trunk that was also used for the glove box.

Is that right, for 1968 the glove box key and trunk key are the same? That glove box lock is a sinch to remove...two philips head screws. Thanks for the tip!

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The lock can then be rekeyed with an H50 blank by a lock smith.

Are you sure it is the H50 blank? Home Depot states that the H50 is for the ignition and door locks.

"H50 Blank Ford Motor Company Key is a nickel-plated brass, precision-milled replacement key. The key is used for ignitions and door locks in compatible Ford vehicles."

Thanks!
Stephen

[KULTULZ]

Should be H51 for the glove box, deck lid and tailgate.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The door and deck lid will have different keys. If you have a locking glove box, the key code should be inscribed on the cylinder.

Here is the glove box lock. "FB0293" is the key code?

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Could this car be referred to as a RAT ROD ...

Nice, yeah, now that you mention it I've always wanted one of them bona fide rat rods! Unfortunately it has the rat rod smell to boot. Not sure if I need to take the carpet/seats out if that will help, or if I need to spray the whole thing down with bleach or what. Now that the rats are all (presumably) dead, I have the doors open to help air it out a little.

[KULTULZ]

I would take all of the soft trim out if there is an odor and let it breathe somewhere dry and blast it with LYSOL/FABREEZE. That odor can really permeate seat covers/padding.

Don't forget a nose guard as the dropping dust is a killer.

[rotorwrench]

I remember the square key being for ignition on those cars with the oval for the trunk. My memory isn't what it used to be so I could be wrong.

Rodents like to pull the stuffing out of seats and make nests. They pee on near everything they can crawl over. The back seat may be the only one to pull out fast to clean under it. I'll guarantee it was a mouse house under there. The trunk is a good second if there is a lot of old boxes or stuff like that in there.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I remember the square key being for ignition on those cars with the oval for the trunk. My memory isn't what it used to be so I could be wrong.

You are correct, the square key is for the ignition, and the oval ket is for the trunk. I'm guessing the oval ket is also for the door and glove box. I guess we'll find out tomorrow as I'm taking my glove box lock to the local locksmith to have a new key made.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Rodents like to pull the stuffing out of seats and make nests. They pee on near everything they can crawl over. The back seat may be the only one to pull out fast to clean under it. I'll guarantee it was a mouse house under there. The trunk is a good second if there is a lot of old boxes or stuff like that in there.

Yeah, I'm not looking forward to cleaning up that mess. WHen I parked the car there weren't any signs of rodents being in the car. But parked in a field for ~8 years they had their way with it. Luckily (I guess) I had already pulled the bottom part of the back seat out before I parked it. I was looking into the trunk trying to figure out how to get it open without a key. So I think the rats made the most of the trunk. I have no idea what is in the trunk, but IIRC it was pretty empty when I peered into it. Rat pee is the worst.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I would take all of the soft trim out if there is an odor and let it breathe somewhere dry and blast it with LYSOL/FABREEZE. That odor can really permeate seat covers/padding.

Don't forget a nose guard as the dropping dust is a killer.

Thanks, I'll probably suit up like i was going to paint. Hazmat suite with full facemask with respirator.