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Old 06-24-2021, 10:13 AM   #161
GB SISSON
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Seems to me the 47 two ton I recently sold had the rings without the split. They went on and off because there is a partial cut-out on the retainer lip. I know you cant mix rings and wheels. What is the lug pattern on a '32 big truck? I feel like I used a tonner wheel (5 on 6 7/8") for a roller on my '32, but that was at least 25 years ago...... Have fun at Thrashermans!
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Old 06-24-2021, 01:13 PM   #162
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Take a break (a short one) and visit your other ole iron hobby. The wheel thing will sort itself out as word gets around. You should be able to find what you want somewhere in your neck of the woods. Otherwise we can look here in California where everything is. I will call a friend here in Ventura area who has a yard full of '32 trucks and buildings full of parts (car and Truck) He has big trucks, little trucks, long and short panels and even roadster pickups. The only part that stumped him was a rear bumper for a 32 sedan delivery, (David will appreciate that).
This project has taken on a life of its own. The wheels will find you.
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Old 06-24-2021, 05:11 PM   #163
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I have to see that yard!
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:13 PM   #164
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Love your truck and this thread! It sure got in the right hands. I 2nd at least pulling the pan. The last 3 engines that had not been run for years of course has the 1 1/2" of the sludge and the killer is the moisture and acids that eats at the pickup tube and pan.
Steve
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:27 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDL View Post
I may have a complete rim and ring or two I'd part with. Let me know if your interested.
KDL,
Yes I may be interested in those rings. I will send you a P.M.
Trying to evaluate several possible options that will be safe and effective too.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:30 PM   #166
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Originally Posted by STEVE O View Post
Love your truck and this thread! It sure got in the right hands. I 2nd at least pulling the pan. The last 3 engines that had not been run for years of course has the 1 1/2" of the sludge and the killer is the moisture and acids that eats at the pickup tube and pan.
Steve

Steve,
Thanks for your positive comments and suggestions. When I do get time to work on the engine I believe I will remove it and do a through exam and clean up. Much easier to do if it is out I believe.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:42 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd View Post
Take a break (a short one) and visit your other ole iron hobby. The wheel thing will sort itself out as word gets around. You should be able to find what you want somewhere in your neck of the woods. Otherwise we can look here in California where everything is. I will call a friend here in Ventura area who has a yard full of '32 trucks and buildings full of parts (car and Truck) He has big trucks, little trucks, long and short panels and even roadster pickups. The only part that stumped him was a rear bumper for a 32 sedan delivery, (David will appreciate that).
This project has taken on a life of its own. The wheels will find you.
Floyd,
I did make two other contacts today in my travels that may have some lock rings. And with KDL thats 3, so yes I will Attempt to be patient. I did bring the tires home today. So I have the 6.00-20 Firestone style tires, tubes and flaps. That may be a little premature, but I think a tire in the hand is better than two on the internet!
Rims will be cleaned ( sandblasted ) and evaluated again when cleaned of rust and scale. The lock rings will be cleaned and reviewed too.





Thanks you for your work on this old wheel issue, that may help a lot!
I would really like to use the old wheels on this truck! But I also would it like to be safe too!

Regards,
Chris
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Last edited by sugarmaker; 06-24-2021 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:50 PM   #168
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Folks,
The Waseon show is always great! We had warm sunny weather with a nice breeze! Looked at lots of tractors, Steam engines, Doodle bugs, and trucks!
I would recommend this show to anyone!





Thanks to Jim from Bugs & Tugs for the pictures. Yea that's me in the AC shirt.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:13 PM   #169
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Barn folks,
Well I will visit a local shop that has worked on these old rims and locks tomorrow and get some lessons.
Also talked to Stu (truckdog) and he viewed the pictures of the lock rings and felt they could be reworked gently and would work. So that's the plan. I am needle scaling all the big chunks off. A very light sanding of the lock ring feature. Lots of needle scaling on the rim groove.
I was able to gently tweak the one ring that was distorted, back very close to the others.
Will try to gently compress the rings to bring them back to near original shapes.
I think I will paint the inside of the rim and lock ring with POR? Called several local sandblasters and they could not get to this custom work for a month or two. So I am going to descale clean and paint them.
Late night with the 32, much to do!


Got all the lock rings cleaned and ready for tuning.


one rim is done, 6 more to work on!


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:40 PM   #170
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Nice work! Love it.


Treat the rust with ospho after cleaning all the big stuff off. Or whatever rust convertor. (acid etch convertor) and spray it with an epoxy. Oshpo is just a lite 15% phosphoric solution (also in coke-cola) used for marine paint prep mostly. Converts lite rust to a neutral state and leaves a lite coat for flash rust if you blast it. Por15 is a good product remove all oil and etch if you do that. It's what they recommend also.


Coker has tube liners if your are worried about the surface on the tube. or a round of duct tape.

Last edited by Tinker; 06-26-2021 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 06-26-2021, 06:31 AM   #171
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Tinker,
Folks,
Thanks for the hints on the rust conversion, and coating. They will get something. Using my current method of cleaning, I should be able to keep the original look of the wheels to match the truck.
I have the tubes and flaps from Lucas. Coker and Miller did not have them.

Should have some additional wheel updates tonight. Keeping my fingers crossed!

I have done repair work on almost every tractor tire rim on my 4 tractor refurb projects. and these truck rims look WAY better than tractor rims. I have sectioned, widened and repaired about a dozen I think? Trying to block that out of my mind right now Its a lot of work to get these units back on there feet. Also some dollars leave the old wallet in a hurry too. But that is one of my pet peeves I go after the brakes, tires and lights on almost every project I start. I guess those are all safety related items. It comes from growing up on the farm with no brakes and no lights ?
Some non related rim work:
28 inch tractor rims. These are Case combine rims split to make wider for new rubber.


5 inch band of 1/8 steel added to make 15 inch wide rim:


The primed view:


Some pretty:


New rubber:


Allis WZ' in its work clothes with new 14.9-28s on rear.


Hope its ok to post some stuff about no Ford stuff that I have. If not let me know please.

Off to play in the big sandbox!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-26-2021, 07:29 AM   #172
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It is all related knowledge and while I'll never own a tractor or big BB truck, I find your photos and text interesting and informative.
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:14 AM   #173
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Hey Chris, just out of curiosity, do you start with flat 1/8" plate? Do you have a roller of some sort to create the necessary arc? Was wondering how you managed to get just the radius you needed. Nice work by the way!
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Old 06-26-2021, 05:30 PM   #174
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David,
I never thought I would own a Truck like this also. Just happened. Be prepared!
Bored&Stroked,
I started with a 5 inch strip of flat stock. I set two heavy metal saw horses about 4 inches apart. Spanned the gap with the steel. Picked up the 2 lb hammer and went to work "blacksmithing" a ring of steel. I calculated the length, but left the stock just little longer for trimming. I have done three sets like this for new tires. Most of the rims also had some rust out due to calcium leakage.
I met with friend Chuck a old school mechanic that felt all the wheel components will be able to be used. But he did suggest a added safety precaution. That would be to weld a nut or spacer on each side of the split on the lock rings. Then add a bolt to draw the lock ring into the home position. while airing up with chains and or cage. I have a little more clean up to do the assure the groove in the wheel is clean. I will start to look at that feature.
So At this point I am more confident to go ahead with the rim cleaning.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-26-2021, 09:34 PM   #175
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Chris
The skills and knowledge shown in your work suggest you attended FFA classes in high school.
Bruce
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:15 PM   #176
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Bruce,
No I attended about 2 months and realized I was learning more on the farm from Dad and Grandpa than in that class. We never had much and had to make something out of nothing most of the time as kids. Working on the farms for 40 years you pick up a few things.

Folks,
Update on the wheels and lock rings. Started trying to come up with a way to squeeze these rings to get them back round and close together at the seam. It is a process that you need to "feel" somewhat as you apply the pressure. I also removed the offset twist by stretching them apart until they laid flat on the work table. Drew a chalk line around the perimeter of a rim to have a guide line for the shape of the lock ring too.
This is the tooling and method. Pipe clamp had just enough stroke to compress the lock ring just enough to start to bring it back. Several applications at strategic points. Its all about the tooling!:


You can see it is squezzed a couple inches past the joint, then will spring back.


Here is one of the 7 that came out tight. most have 1/2 inch gap that can easily be moved together.


This is the stack of 7 lock rings. I think I am going to put these together without the nuts welded and bolt holding them at the joint:


Next to work on the rims, needle scaling and very light grinding to clean up the groove area. May pick up a quart of POR for the inside of the rims and lock ring.
Heard a lot about it, never used it?

Regards,
Chris
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Last edited by sugarmaker; 06-26-2021 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:51 PM   #177
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Farmers fix things. Can't wait around all day. Nice work.
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Old 06-26-2021, 11:21 PM   #178
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Chris, Good on You!!!! The school of Life teaches more than any college and degree or diploma on the wall. Old fashioned common sense and practical use of basic tools can get the job done today just as when these old trucks and cars were new 90 years ago. Thanks for continuing to post your progress for us and God Speed you'll have it running this summer.
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Old 06-27-2021, 06:22 AM   #179
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Tinker, Al, Ford Folks,
Thanks for the support! That is also some of the reason I know these forums work for me and my projects. I get the ideas and an occasional jump start to get out there and do something! The more I work on this 32, I realized that similar to other machines of that time they were designed and built so that most folks could actually work on them. As compared to my newer truck where there are too many electronics and gizmos to go wrong or need serious dealer/ technician shop time.

May have some basic questions about engine stuff soon. like this ok now!
easier to pull just the engine?
Pull engine and transmission?
Leave engine in place and pull head and pan?
Gaskets?
Regards,
Chris
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Last edited by sugarmaker; 06-27-2021 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 06-27-2021, 06:44 AM   #180
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With its closed center cross member, pulling the engine and transmission together is the only realistic option unless you can do everything that you want to do by removing the cylinder head and oil pan (a project in itself given the V-shaped front axle radius rod(s) beneath the pan interfering with the pan's removal). Snyder's has all the gaskets you will need. I recommend that you rebuild the oil pump while you have the oil pan off (again, Snyder's has what you'll need). Both the rod and main bearings are poured and machined babbitt, not insert and hopefully all remain within specification. Given your engine number, it will likely not have the later counterbalanced crankshaft (unless the original was replaced along the way), which you might consider if you have to have any of the bearings re-poured and machined.
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