Steel filings in one rear brake drum

[supergnat]

I removed the driver side rear drum and found steel filings all over. This rear wheel has a modern lining that appears to have been filed across the lining and not in the direction of the wheel rotation. Could this cause the buildup of filings. I also notices two fresh wear spots. One on the drum (see photo) and one on the the center toggle link pin (see photo). I actually suspect that the drum is seating too far on to the axle and don't have any idea how to fix that. I would certainly value your opinions. I will be installing new woven linings. The drums are original steel and in excellent condition.

I had trouble adding photos from my iPad. Moved them to the PC. Hope this works. Thanks for the responses so far.

I've added the additional photos as requested by Tom. I have the self adjusting system with non-adjustable brake rods.
Thanks,
Supergnat

[Bob C]

You could install an axle shim to bring the drum out a little.

Bob

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by supergnat

I removed the driver side rear drum and found steel filings all over. This rear wheel has a modern lining that appears to have been filed across the lining and not in the direction of the wheel rotation. Could this cause the buildup of filings. I also notices two fresh wear spots. One on the drum (see photo) and one on the the center toggle link pin (see photo). I actually suspect that the drum is seating too far on to the axel and don't have any idea how to fix that. I would certainly value your opinions. I will be installing new woven linings. The drums are original steel and in excellent condition.
Thanks,
Supergnat

I don't see any photos...

[Bob C]

When I first posted I saw a picture of the toggle link now I don't see any.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Can you back up a little bit and post a picture of the complete brake assembly?

Also do the same for the drum.

[Fred K-OR]

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Originally Posted by Bob C

You could install an axle shim to bring the drum out a little.

Bob

Looks like this would be a good answer to your problem.

I had same problem where drum rubbed on brake shoes. The axle shim did the tick. Can get them at any vendor. There are two thicknesses so figure out which one you need. If in doubt, order mult thin ones and thus you could install more than one.

Good luck and maybe more people that know more about this than I do will comment.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

There are two thicknesses so figure out which one you need. If in doubt, order mult thin ones and thus you could install more than one.

Who has the two thicknesses? Most vendors only list one and most don't list the thickness. Thanks

[supergnat]

I just checked a couple of vendors. There doesn't appear to be a variety. Snyders indicates that the shim thickness is .004"and they sell a set of two.

After reading old poss regarding axle shims my plan is to dismantle the brake assembly, clean it thoroughly and put it back together using the new shoes. I will also inspect the backing plate for problems. If there is still rubbing I will try a different hub/drum assembly and go from there. I'll also order a set of shims just in case I need them. If I've missed anything feel free to let me know.

I plan to post the results.
Thanks,
Supergnat

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Who has the two thicknesses? Most vendors only list one and most don't list the thickness. Thanks

I do have two thickness of shims. Don't know where I got the thicker one. In a way, it is better just to get multiple thin ones then you can add as needed. I found the thick one was to thick for what I needed.

BTW the way I found my brake shoes rubbing the drum is I heard a squeak when I went around a turn.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I can't tell from the picture angle, but is your parking brake band installed so the flat side rides against the carrier? From the picture, it looks like your's need to be flipped.

Notice in the picture, the bottom side goes against the carrier.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Is this car something you just bought?
What prompted you to remove the left rear drum?

The lines on the lining look like grinder marks from the linings being arced to the drum diameter, and the car has only a few miles since the linings were installed, as the linings don't show full contact yet.

In the 4th picture, upper right corner, you can see a wear mark where the forged part had been riding against the carrier. I'm pretty sure that's what I'm seeing, and that does look like it might be the flat side, rather than the tapered side, so that's why it appears they need to be flipped over.

Also, as mentioned, if the drum is rubbing on the backing plate, then a shim or two should correct that. Does the bottom of the backing plate have any marks, like a flat spot or bend from hitting the pavement?

[redmodelt]

Please don't "stack" your shims, make a thicker one if needed. I have pulled drums that had 3 installed, what a mess. Every time you install a shim you are using less of the hub keyway to keep the drum in place. Remember to pull the wheel and recheck the torque on the axle nuts after driving some.
How much in/out movement do the axles have?

[supergnat]

Getting back after the holiday. I’ll try to respond to the comments I received so far.
Tom, I’m not sure what you mean about the brake band installation. I have added a couple more photos. I have owned the car for five years and haven’t really driven it much. I am just trying to find out what might be causing the steel filings so I can eliminate when I rebuild the brakes.
Initially I did some front end work and adjusted the brakes so the car would stop better. I did notice, at that time, that the driver side rear brakes had modern type shoe material but I didn’t mess with it then. I am now ready to redo the brakes and found the filings when I pulled the wheel. I am in the process of rebuilding the brakes and installing new woven brake material all around. The material I have for the parking brake carriers is undrilled. Is there a special way to position the material on the carrier? I thought it should be centered.
I have Ford script keys in my hubs. Both have a tapered end. I assume the key is installed with the taper facing up on the outboard end of the axle. My keys were not installed like that. Could that be a contributor?

I added a couple more photos including some of the passenger side rear brake backing plate assembly.

Thanks again for everyone's comments.

[Fred K-OR]

As noted is some other posts, the keys are installed with the tapered ends down against the axle and the tapered end is inboard. Sounds like that is the way you found them. Hey guys check me out on this but I am almost sure that is the way it is.

[supergnat]

Fred, Thanks for that information. I have not seen those other posts. The key on the drivers side had the taper facing up on the outboard side. Perhaps that contributed to my problem? The key on the passenger side was installed as you described.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The key taper is inward and down as Fred said. See my picture in #10, and notice the large lump where the toggle is pinned. Now to the left of that you see another small lump, but the top side is tapered and the bottom side is flat. The flat side must fit against the carrier.

Later mounting brackets were stamped steel rather than forgings. The stamped steel has an offset from one end to the other, and the offset is to ride against the carrier.

The two band retracting springs fit into the band bracket holes on the outside, away from the carrier. If you install the springs in the inside holes, the hook on the spring can get caught on the carrier.

[supergnat]

The observation Tom made was correct. The carrier on the rear driver side is installed incorrectly. I will be sure to correct that when I reassemble the new brakes. I will also be sure to install the keys with the taper inward and down. Hopefully those items caused the steel filings I discovered. I will report back when I complete the rebuild.
Thanks again.
Supergnat