Installing a Model A Rear End / Need Advice

[Rob Doe]

Is it uncommon to have to use a lever / crow bar to guide the rear spring into the cross member when initially lifting the unit to reattach the spring?

When lifting our coupes rear end, as the spring reaches the u-bolts it contacts the edge of the end of the bolt, which is outside the ~ 1/2" flange on the x-member and a couple inches down. The u-bolt has been pushed upward as far as it will go. The spring is fully shackled to axle housings at both perches and the nuts and bars of the shackles are finger tight.

I first suspected that the rear end had slipped rearward at the u-joint, but that was not the case, I can pull the unit rearward and then push it forward to hear a klunk sound when it hits the forward limit of the u-joint. I've checked the clearances top, bottom, and sides of the torque tubes front bell where it encapsulates the inner u-joint cover. It looks close and correct all round. The rear end is still about 5" from the fully installed height so the bell is sloped downward, but appears to have close and equal clearances. I believe I could bolt up the clam shells, but it's not time to do so according to the red book.

The spring appears to be straight to the naked eye, vertically perpendicular to the torque tube, but the spring is the remnants of the incorrect 10 leaf spring that was removed to rebuild the rear end. Leaves 7 and 9 were removed to make it an 8 leaf spring for a coupe as per Marco Tahtaras spring diagram. The spring was stripped to bare metal and painted with slip plate.

[Brentwood Bob]

I have done that to get it in.

[Rob Doe]

Thanks Bob, that's what I needed to know.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Rob Doe

Is it uncommon to have to use a lever / crow bar to guide the rear spring into the cross member when initially lifting the unit to reattach the spring?

I have had to guide it in every time.

[Brentwood Bob]

Don't chip the paint! If it ain't tight, it ain't right.

[Canton_Model_A's]

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also 5 pound hammers do wonders too

[Synchro909]

Your problem is why I leave the spring behind in the cross member and if the spring has to come out, it comes out separately and put back before the rear end.

[clifforddward]

I changed out my rear spring just this past month...had to use a crow bar to "guide" the spring into the cross member...it took a good bit of persuasion. My spring was mounted to the rear axle and we lifted the assembly up into the crossmember. It was tightening down the U-Bolts that snugged the spring in the final inch or so.

Having said that, I don't remember mine being as much as 1/2" off of fitting in the cross member.

Don't forget that the outer edges of the top leaf will need to be beveled (ground) a bit to fit properly into the cross member.

[Rob Doe]

Got to the shop about 6:15. Set up some ratchet straps around the axle housings and up over the x member on each side of the car. Put the jack under the banjo and kept following the spring upward removing the slack in the ratchet straps. All this with the crowbar easily holding the spring forward enough to slip in. Started the nuts on the clamps as soon as there were enough threads showing.

I had marked the center of the x-member and centered the spring as per the bottom nut. There must be a self-centering effect between the bevel on the edges of the top leaf and the x-member, or else I got awfully lucky. As I snugged the nuts on the clamps there was a loud pop and the nuts suddenly got very loose. After removing the slack, I reached around to the front and top of the x-member. I could feel the nut protruding nicely where there had been a hole.

Beginner's Luck??? Thanks for the help, guyz.

[Brentwood Bob]

Effective. On the production line the engine went in after the drive train.

[JayJay]

While we're on the subject of installing the rear spring: should a strip of welting go on top of the spring, between the top leaf and the frame cross member? I seem to recall this. Thanks.

[Tom Endy]

Removing a rear end from a Model A with the spring attached is a very unsafe practice. Once the spring is unbolted from the frame the only thing holding it together is a 3\8 bolt that was never meant to hold that much tension even when new. If the head should pop off of a 90 year old rusted bolt the leaf's will fly 20 feet in the air and take your head with it if you are standing over it. The attached article is about how to safely remove a rear end\spring from a Model A,

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...ear-Spring.pdf

Tom Endy

[Brentwood Bob]

Thanks Tom. I completely disregarded the safety issue. I use a heavy chain and heavy c-clamps to convince myself it is risk free to work around the exposed rear spring. It is not! Once would be enough for the Jesus bolt to let go and do damage.