cupped washer

[DBrer]

Does the washer go on the top of the ball or the bottom of the ball on the radius rod ball? also should the top ball cup fit flat against the bell housing? I took off the rubber ball and going to install the original kit.

[kenparker]

Washer goes on top of the ball. Good move on going back to the original kit.
Thin part of teh new/original kit... cupped washer...ball of wishbone....bottom half of the original kit....sleeves go up into the bottom half of the kit...springs go over the sleeves and between the bottom half of the kit and the large nuts. ... and dont fergit the new codder pens. he he

[1crosscut]

If the ball on the wishbone doesn't show much wear you won't need the separately sold cupped washer.

[Bob Bidonde]

Forces acting on the front radius rod ball are both up and down due to the lever action of the front axle. The routine forces are due to breaking and suspension effects (bumps, friction, etc.). Thus it matters not if the washer goes on top or below the ball. However, the principal forces acting on the ball are upward from forward motion of the car, so the washer is best put on top of the ball.

Examples. When breaking while the car is moving forward, the radius rods push up on the ball. When hitting a pot hole or speed bump, the radius rods also push up on the ball.

[duke36]

Adding the cup washer may change the axle caster, placed on top increases it a little but should hopefully still be within limits. Some sources say 3- 6 degrees, while others like 4-5 deg. as an average. Also, you may need to tack the vendor's washer if needed to the top clamp or some tack it to the ball to keep it from migrating. The stock style clamping parts are supposed to have a small gap between them when the springs and cotters are seated.
If memory serves, the kit should come with new correct length bolts.

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by duke36

Adding the cup washer may change the axle caster, placed on top increases it a little but should hopefully still be within limits. Some sources say 3- 6 degrees, while others like 4-5 deg. as an average. Also, you may need to tack the vendor's washer if needed to the top clamp or some tack it to the ball to keep it from migrating. The stock style clamping parts are supposed to have a small gap between them when the springs and cotters are seated.
If memory serves, the kit should come with new correct length bolts.

I sincerely doubt adding a 1/16" washer is going to change the caster where you would even notice it. You would have to drop the ball ~1" to change the caster 1°.

There have been other threads on this in the past.

[DBrer]

I did install the washer on the top and everything is fine.