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Old 05-21-2017, 02:26 PM   #1
AD1948Ford
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Default Flowtech headers, rear exit

I am looking at putting Flowtech rear exit block hugger headers on my 1948 Tudor sedan. Does anyone know of these will fit with the stock steering set up/geometry?
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Old 05-23-2017, 01:02 PM   #2
corvette8n
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

Call Summit they should be able to help, my '41 is stock except for Red's headers and there are no clearence problems.
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Old 05-23-2017, 03:04 PM   #3
40cpe
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

I can't help with fit, but you got me interested. I see they have polished stainless for $8 more. Maybe they would hold their finish better?
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Old 05-23-2017, 03:06 PM   #4
slowforty
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

More importantly will they clear the shift linkage.
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:24 PM   #5
russcc
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

If you want to be sure they fit right, with no struggles, my first choice would be Red's headers, and the exhaust pipes to the mufflers that Red's also has. Fit the '40 like glove, no pain, no strain.
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Old 05-23-2017, 10:06 PM   #6
JSeery
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

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Is Red's selling headers again? They were not available for a long time.
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:27 AM   #7
Bored&Stroked
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

Also, all headers are NOT created equal! I bought a set for my 32 from Drake about 2 years ago (was in a pinch, Red's was out of stock) - they looked 'okay' on the outside, but when I looked through the rear openings to where the rear exhaust tube joined the main tube . . . couldn't believe it . . . the opening nowhere near matched the pipe profile, was burned with a cutting torch - about the size of a quarter! Junk . . .
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:42 PM   #8
russcc
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Default Re: Flowtech headers, rear exit

I got the '40 headers and exhaust pipes a few months ago, no wait, came right away. I know Jin had some issues with finding good welders, so they solved the problem. As side note; on the '40, I used 2" Mellow Tone mufflers from Van Pelts, get the short ones, 12", as there is not much room in the X-member area, and if you don't want to cut the X-member, have someone with a mandrel bender make a 4" offset pipe, about 8" long to move the mufflers over close and parallel with the frame so they line up with the oval hole on the aft end of the X-Member. I also like the Donaldson bent bolt clamps, so if you want to pull the system apart, you don't need a torch to get over the deep ring from an ordinary muffler clamp.
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