No power/won't start

[AD1948Ford]

I've done a search and have test my electrical system with all of your suggestions. Unfortunately I am still having issues. I am still restoring the car but have the dash in and have started wiring everything up. I would like to start the motor daily since it was just rebuilt and ran a month ago when I picked it up. Given that, I do not have the lights, horn, or any gauges hooked up at this point.

To give some color/history on my current issue:

- I switch the car over to 12v negative ground. Have a Petronix electronic ignition installed replacing the points, new 12v coil, new power master alternator that looks like a generator. Everything is hooked up minus the alternator at this point.

-brand new wiring harness from Macs is installed. I have hooked up all engine sensor connections, coil, starter solenoid and battery is in.

- I disconnected the external voltage regulator since the alternator is internally regulated.

- I hooked up a generic ignition switch and start button to complete the circuit to start.

I went to start the car yesterday, turn the key and push the start button and nothing. I moved my negative ground on battery from the firewall to the frame. I have another ground from engine to the firewall. The firewall is painted so maybe I have a bad ground on the engine but I am not sure if that would cause me to have no power to turn the car over.

Any help would be very much appreciated. I am sure I am missing something small but not sure at this point.

Thank you,
Aaron

[51 MERC-CT]

If you have never had the engine running using the Pertronix ignition, if it were me I would revert back to the point system and get the engine running correctly, then go back to the Pertronix at a later time if you choose to.
The no power to start will have to be addressed by physically checking all systems.
Battery good??
Try direct connection to starter to see if it turns over.

[Ken/Alabama]

Sounds like something in your generic ignition switch isn't wired up correctly. You could have kept the original switch and push button, the starter solenoid would need to swapped for a 12 volt unit like the original with one small post for the start button ground wire.

[AD1948Ford]

Thanks for the input guys. The motor was running at the engine builder with the penteonix so I am pretty sure that's ok. The original push button and ignition switch was in rough shape so I have one ordered. I got the generic ignition switch to just try and start it while waiting for my other parts. The battery is brand new.

What do you mean try direct connection to starter? Use a jump wire from the battery to starter?

[Bob C]

If you changed the solenoid did you get one that will work with the start button
which supplies the ground, you need a solenoid with an isolated ground.

Bob

[JSeery]

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Or a positive wired pushbutton.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by AD1948Ford

What do you mean try direct connection to starter? Use a jump wire from the battery to starter?

Yes either to the starter terminal or the starter side of the solenoid to determine if juice is getting past the solenoid.

[G.M.]

As soon as I see 12 volts and electronic ignition that turns me off. People read
all this supposed update crap and get into big problems. The 6 volt system
still works great and fix the problems with that and it will work for another
75 years and be easy to trouble shoot. G.M.

[Floyd]

I just agree with G M.
my opinion
Floyd

[slowforty]

I like using 6-volt stuff because all the guys converting to 12-volts sell the 6-volt stuff to me cheap. and then I wont sell it back to them. Then they call me a Prince spell Prick.

[JSeery]

First you need to establish what style of starter solinoid you have. If it is the orginal style that requires a ground (through the starter pushbutton) then you have to make sure the wire connections are in the correct position. It will only work one way. The center terminal that the starter pushbutton connects to has to internally connect to the battery post.

If it is a latter style solinoid that requires a positive input to activate then you need a pushbutton that connects to power like was used in the later trucks.

[AD1948Ford]

thanks everyone. If I use the correct style 3 post solenoid and the push button start on the solenoid is facing down and you are facing the solenoid, does the positive wire from the battery go to the left side or right side? or does it matter?

[JSeery]

Yes it matters, that's why I posted the schematic of it! The best way to check it is with a ohm meter.

[AD1948Ford]

Thanks everyone. Here at 1:18 in the morning, it's all coming together. I appreciate all the help.

[edhd58]

Worst thing you can do is start the engine just to let it run. It won't hurt it to set a couple weeks at a time. But if you just stay it to let it run you risk glazing the cylinders and a possible smoking motor. The engine needs to be run under load to seat the rings.

[AD1948Ford]

Due to the awesome help from you all, the wiring is fixed and the motor starts up immediately through the factory wiring harness. The motor is hooked up to the trans and is under load. I actually put a bucket in the car and drove it around the block a few times as well.

[Drbrown]

Great to see you've got it running. As an aside, I have 12 volt neg ground system in my '47 and a previous owner connected the ground cable to the one of the bolts that anchors body of the starter to the engine block. The engine is grounded to both the firewall and frame. I understand this arrangement promotes better/easier starting.