The Ford Barn

fixitphil · 06-18-2017, 09:31 AM

Does anyone know where I can purchase a Starter Switch Copper Terminal- the bolt that you attach the battery cable to. None of the usual parts houses carry it.

Kurt in NJ · 06-18-2017, 09:45 AM

The stock A starter just had a contact for the switch,no threads, but the later V8/4cyl stud can be put in, but it needs to be soldered with a good sized iron, I use a 600 watt iron for soldering in starters, perhaps 350-400 will work but more heat will have to be put into the copper, the large iron gets it up to heat quick and heats the insulation less---i bought NOS ones at Hershey, I suppose the V8 parts houses have a modern replacement

fixitphil · 06-18-2017, 09:49 AM

Threads gone!

fixitphil · 06-18-2017, 09:55 AM

Thanks for your info Kurt. Mine has a threaded bolt not soldered in. I guess mine is a V8?

jw hash · 06-18-2017, 10:00 AM

the original starter switch for the Model A all have a threaded stud that your battery cable fasten to. I don`t know of any venders that supply that stud. but there is a lot of used ones out there.

Kurt in NJ · 06-18-2017, 10:14 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I was thinking you wanted to convert the startewr contact to a stud-----the starter switch stud ---that is what keeping the old parts fixes, there should be another model a guy close with a collection of spares----or on other starters thread stripping is also a problem, look on the "HELP" rack at the auto parts stores, there is a "repair" stud that is made for stripped threads, you will need to measure what you have, a repair like this or rethreading for smaller--perhaps metric nut could get you back on the road "now" ---of course there is always the hand crank

BILL WILLIAMSON · 06-18-2017, 01:33 PM

I can't even turn it with the crank!!---Do "they" make a LONGER crank?
I "heard" of a Guy that made a HUGE, SLOW drill motor into a "crank"! He'd leave it running while going into his Post Office to get his JUNK MAIL---LOL
Bill Weak

taffrail · 06-18-2017, 04:32 PM

I don't think you can buy the bolt, I have tried after mine stripped putting on a fuse kit.
It still worked but it was a little loose so I ordered a 3/8" x 2" bronze bolt from Bolt dopot touched the head up a bit with a grinder and installed it. I thought about buying a new switch, but it would be the only new part on the engine.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 06-18-2017, 09:22 PM

A Friend did a solenoid control for his starter. He drilled & tapped the button on the starter to 1/4" & bolted on the cable!!!! I "wonder" HOW LONG IT LASTED????
Bill Skeptical

1955cj5 · 06-18-2017, 10:02 PM

You could just buy a replacement switch and use the bolt with your old housing....that way you get new insulators too...

Gunmetal blue2 · 06-19-2017, 09:13 AM

So I have the old one with the threaded stud like 1955cj5 is showing. Can I buy a new one and put the copper contact piece on the old one. If no does any body have the inter guttes to the old one's for sale.

1955cj5 · 06-19-2017, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunmetal blue2

So I have the old one with the threaded stud like 1955cj5 is showing. Can I buy a new one and put the copper contact piece on the old one. If no does any body have the inter guttes to the old one's for sale.

That is what I did...fit and works fine....

Here is a thread

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ghlight=switch

fixitphil · 06-19-2017, 09:39 AM

Thanks Guys. Gives me a lot of options.
That'll fixit.

Growley bear · 06-19-2017, 09:55 AM

About three years ago I had a problem with the copper lug a little loose in the switch. The battery cable was tight. So, knowing full well what might happen I tightened the lug nut while "not allowing it to rotate". The copper lug seems to stretch over time as I have seen many of these with a little movement over the years. The starter switch worked fine. Took a ride, everything warmed up, stopped at an intersection on a hill, killed the engine and upon restart the switch stuck with the starter engaged. Fixed that and went home. Removed the switch and found that the copper switch bar moved just a little, but just enough to hang up on the insulation material inside the switch housing.
I went to the hardware store and bought a steel button head screw because they have a low profile, an allen/hex wrench can be used in the tightening process and they won't stretch like copper. When I tightened the retainer nut I used a temporary shim along side in the direction of rotation of; the copper bar to maintain alignment/keep it centered and it has been trouble free for 3000 miles. It won't pass fine point judging but other than that it is not noticeable and is very dependable.

06-18-2017, 09:31 AM	#1
fixitphil Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 83	Starter Switch Copper Terminal Does anyone know where I can purchase a Starter Switch Copper Terminal- the bolt that you attach the battery cable to. None of the usual parts houses carry it.

06-18-2017, 09:45 AM	#2
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal The stock A starter just had a contact for the switch,no threads, but the later V8/4cyl stud can be put in, but it needs to be soldered with a good sized iron, I use a 600 watt iron for soldering in starters, perhaps 350-400 will work but more heat will have to be put into the copper, the large iron gets it up to heat quick and heats the insulation less---i bought NOS ones at Hershey, I suppose the V8 parts houses have a modern replacement

06-18-2017, 09:49 AM	#3
fixitphil Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 83	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal Threads gone!

06-18-2017, 09:55 AM	#4
fixitphil Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 83	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal Thanks for your info Kurt. Mine has a threaded bolt not soldered in. I guess mine is a V8?

06-18-2017, 10:00 AM	#5
jw hash Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Washington Posts: 2,552	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal the original starter switch for the Model A all have a threaded stud that your battery cable fasten to. I don`t know of any venders that supply that stud. but there is a lot of used ones out there.

06-18-2017, 10:14 AM	#6
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I was thinking you wanted to convert the startewr contact to a stud-----the starter switch stud ---that is what keeping the old parts fixes, there should be another model a guy close with a collection of spares----or on other starters thread stripping is also a problem, look on the "HELP" rack at the auto parts stores, there is a "repair" stud that is made for stripped threads, you will need to measure what you have, a repair like this or rethreading for smaller--perhaps metric nut could get you back on the road "now" ---of course there is always the hand crank

06-18-2017, 01:33 PM	#7
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal I can't even turn it with the crank!!---Do "they" make a LONGER crank? I "heard" of a Guy that made a HUGE, SLOW drill motor into a "crank"! He'd leave it running while going into his Post Office to get his JUNK MAIL---LOL Bill Weak __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

06-18-2017, 04:32 PM	#8
taffrail Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Hingham, MA Posts: 135	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal I don't think you can buy the bolt, I have tried after mine stripped putting on a fuse kit. It still worked but it was a little loose so I ordered a 3/8" x 2" bronze bolt from Bolt dopot touched the head up a bit with a grinder and installed it. I thought about buying a new switch, but it would be the only new part on the engine.

06-18-2017, 09:22 PM	#9
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal A Friend did a solenoid control for his starter. He drilled & tapped the button on the starter to 1/4" & bolted on the cable!!!! I "wonder" HOW LONG IT LASTED???? Bill Skeptical __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

06-19-2017, 09:13 AM	#11
Gunmetal blue2 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Columbia, TN.38401 Posts: 422	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal So I have the old one with the threaded stud like 1955cj5 is showing. Can I buy a new one and put the copper contact piece on the old one. If no does any body have the inter guttes to the old one's for sale.

06-19-2017, 09:39 AM	#13
fixitphil Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 83	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal Thanks Guys. Gives me a lot of options. That'll fixit.

06-19-2017, 09:55 AM	#14
Growley bear Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 777	Re: Starter Switch Copper Terminal About three years ago I had a problem with the copper lug a little loose in the switch. The battery cable was tight. So, knowing full well what might happen I tightened the lug nut while "not allowing it to rotate". The copper lug seems to stretch over time as I have seen many of these with a little movement over the years. The starter switch worked fine. Took a ride, everything warmed up, stopped at an intersection on a hill, killed the engine and upon restart the switch stuck with the starter engaged. Fixed that and went home. Removed the switch and found that the copper switch bar moved just a little, but just enough to hang up on the insulation material inside the switch housing. I went to the hardware store and bought a steel button head screw because they have a low profile, an allen/hex wrench can be used in the tightening process and they won't stretch like copper. When I tightened the retainer nut I used a temporary shim along side in the direction of rotation of; the copper bar to maintain alignment/keep it centered and it has been trouble free for 3000 miles. It won't pass fine point judging but other than that it is not noticeable and is very dependable.