Critique this '34

[KJ714]

Frame number doesn't look original to me.

If you look closely at the "I8 - " you'll see it looks remarkably different in quality from the remaining numbers, I think it is original. It's originality is evidenced by the witness marks of the frame stamping process, the straight lines marked across the frame by the press pushing the metal blank around the original mold shape. If you look for them you'll see them across the "18 -", I count about 10 of them, the last one intersecting across the "-". In the remaining frame number, the witness marks from the stamping process disappear, indicating that area was smoothed by the process of erasing the original number, and a new number stamped in, which is markedly dissimilar in quality from the original "I8-". Just my 2 cents

[KJ714]

As an example, here is a frame number where the last 4 digits have been changed. The absence of witness marks in the altered area is pronounced & the witness marks begin again a few inches further up the frame.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by KJ714

As an example, here is a frame number where the last 4 digits have been changed. The absence of witness marks in the altered area is pronounced & the witness marks begin again a few inches further up the frame.

NOT to mention the number, according to VanPelt's is in the "1934" range!!




***DISREGARD this statement as I have been educated that VanPelts numbers are bogus**** 3/10/23 1:35est

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

For a $94K car, I agree 100%. I have a pet peeve for things such hose clamps and other fasteners.

Not sure why, but my I gets drawn to them immediately.

For the underside of fenders, I guess the previous owner had to make a decision as to how far he wanted to go.

I can only assume when faced with the estimate of how much extra it was going to cost of finishing the underside of the fenders, he decided not to.

Tim, There is a general rule of thumb when restoring a car... To get the car to 90%, expect to spend X amount of time and X amount of money. To get to 100%, expect to double that IE 2X.
I have been witness to a LOT of cars that are beautiful but alas, are 90%.
In reality, there are very few TRUE #1 cars.

Guys like David Rehor and myself are a "dying breed".

[DavidG]

the.secret.victoria,


You are correct. Left over upholstery or open car top material with a sewn-in spring wire ring with outward 'bumps' in the wire to fit in the slots of the vertical portion of the lip surrounding the hole beneath the seat cushion.

[DavidG]

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Robert,


Looking again at the various photos, I now conclude that you are right, those are '34 bumpers.

[Newc]

'As Left the Factory' . Is a TOUGH standard to reach. Owners/shops should realize this fact. Then you can't drive it much at all. Newc

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Newc

'As Left the Factory' . Is a TOUGH standard to reach. Owners/shops should realize this fact. Then you can't drive it much at all. Newc

Newc
I disagree,
it’s all about what you want to make it, i have found that if you are determined to make it right, you can!!! I “may” take more time than you think BUT it can be done…….it took me 25 years to find some Right hand drive engine tins, it cost me more in shipping and in taxes/fee’s BUT i found the correct German horn for
my 32. SO it’s not impossible!!! AND with good ole Fordbarn……possibilities are endless

[DavidG]

There are many aspects to the hobby. Not everyone wants to drive a 90-year-old car coast to coast. I have great respect for those that do, but that's but one aspect of the hobby and far from the only one.

[26 lakes]

These two pages are an excellent read. The knowledge on the Ford Barn can't be duplicated. Detail. The trained eye. Knowledge. That is what we are missing in this world. My hat is off to everyone that commented.

[Ol' Ron]

Not a very good "street" machine. "Too Perfect"!
Gramps

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Newc
I disagree,
it’s all about what you want to make it, i have found that if you are determined to make it right, you can!!! I “may” take more time than you think BUT it can be done…….it took me 25 years to find some Right hand drive engine tins, it cost me more in shipping and in taxes/fee’s BUT i found the correct German horn for
my 32. SO it’s not impossible!!! AND with good ole Fordbarn……possibilities are endless

Reread this a few times. I'll agree with both of you. Yes, it can be done and yes, once it's done you may experience a real hesitation to use a totally original #1 car as a driver.


My own car is near original, good looking and in great shape but I would have had to put quite a bit of effort into making it a real completely correct #1 original and keeping it in totally clean showroom condition. Went to a car show not soon after buying it an drove through an unexpected rain shower. That messed up the pristine underside quite a bit and really bothered me. Finally rationalized that even though I'd intended to never drive it in the rain, I did intend to drive it a lot.


It's dirty and will get more dirty. Not only that, it has a few minor leaks like other flatheads, so the engine compartment and underside are getting more dirty. I'm not going to polish the underside every time I drive it.


That all said, I didn't pay a premium price for my '41 Coupe and I doubt it would ever command a premium price even in perfect #1 condition. It's just not that desirable of a car.


Nothing wrong with making your car #1 perfect and/or keeping it showroom clean. I actually like the "as built" ethos and have changed out a few parts with no other benefit than making it more correct. I've also changed out a few other parts to make it a period-correct non-stock hot rod. IMHO there are many "right" ways to enjoy the hobby.


" AND with good ole Fordbarn……possibilities are endless."

[Ol' Ron]

I would like to build a street rod out of a 33/34 5 window coupe. 276ci engine AoD tarns IFS. and a few creacher comforts. Asa two seater it has a large trunk for travling.
But my building days are over.
Gramps

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by SoCalCoupe

Reread this a few times. I'll agree with both of you. Yes, it can be done and yes, once it's done you may experience a real hesitation to use a totally original #1 car as a driver.


My own car is near original, good looking and in great shape but I would have had to put quite a bit of effort into making it a real completely correct #1 original and keeping it in totally clean showroom condition. Went to a car show not soon after buying it an drove through an unexpected rain shower. That messed up the pristine underside quite a bit and really bothered me. Finally rationalized that even though I'd intended to never drive it in the rain, I did intend to drive it a lot.


It's dirty and will get more dirty. Not only that, it has a few minor leaks like other flatheads, so the engine compartment and underside are getting more dirty. I'm not going to polish the underside every time I drive it.


That all said, I didn't pay a premium price for my '41 Coupe and I doubt it would ever command a premium price even in perfect #1 condition. It's just not that desirable of a car.


Nothing wrong with making your car #1 perfect and/or keeping it showroom clean. I actually like the "as built" ethos and have changed out a few parts with no other benefit than making it more correct. I've also changed out a few other parts to make it a period-correct non-stock hot rod. IMHO there are many "right" ways to enjoy the hobby.


" AND with good ole Fordbarn……possibilities are endless."

NOT jumping on NEWC at all here!!!


BUT David is correct and you and your thoughts are correct as well!!! I guess my point IS, take my 39 Mercury.....sans the add on blinkers.....MY car is as close to "as Henry Built It" as I can possibly get it.....IT's not a "100%" car in the aspect of a "Show Car" BUT it is close to "as Henry Built It" as I can get it AND what is not, I am still on a quest to get it that way.....FOR example when I got it, it had the wrong bumpers on it, I looked around and found a set of bumpers that closely matched the patina of the car, not show quality but "correct"......I still drive and enjoy my car and in NO way will it win a "Dearborn"!!!!! SO.....As Henry built it doesn't mean a 1000 point Dearborn car IS my point (and SoCalCoupe's too)!!!!

[Tudie 36]

Very impressed with knowledge on this site. This one I know has several non original parts on it. Most of them by me not knowing what I was doing. Now I trust her for a long ride along with starting and stopping. I worked in my Dad’s. Body shop for a couple years in the early eighty’s so it was enamel, lacquer and then Imron. We did a pretty good job usually. I would like to know if this paint is possibly original? If not it had to have been completely disassembled. I know it’s Dull but I like it this way. Any thoughts on originality of paint? Thanks.





Well, I wrote all this then realized my pictures are crappy.

[restoman]

Two good heavy coats of high build epoxy primer and then, if needed a skim coat of bondo. Then wet sand until smooth and then one more coat of primer. All in a day's work for a good restoration.

[DavidG]

Tudie 36,


The color is about right for weathered "light fast maroon", an original '36 color, but the weathering if far too uniform to representative of the original enamel. Further, the pin stripe appears to be completely intact and they simply do not hold up to 87 years' worth of car washes and wax jobs.

[Tudie 36]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Tudie 36,


The color is about right for weathered "light fast maroon", an original '36 color, but the weathering if far too uniform to representative of the original enamel. Further, the pin stripe appears to be completely intact and they simply do not hold up to 87 years' worth of car washes and wax jobs.

Thanks for confirming the color. I was sure that was it, late April color added I believe. The car has several car show decals on the firewall from the early 80’s. I think that was when it was redone.