Throttle Repair

[BVZ24]

I have been looking for a new throttle for my mid '30 that has had an incomplete and bent throttle. I found a pair of complete '30 throttles less spring at a swap meet for $2 each and couldn't pass them up. I was able to turn both throttles and they both had the same bends, so I'm assuming they are relatively close to stock. I need springs for both.

One throttle was cosmetically significantly nicer than the other, and by my best guess is a mid '30. It has a one piece lever. This throttle is most likely the most repairable.

The other is an early '30 with a pinned lever. It has heavy pitting and rust, and I may need to replace the lever. This throttle has fewer bends.

What is the best way to replace the springs on each type, and do they use different springs? I am aware there should be a pin on the early 30, but I am not able to see this pin. Shown is a '28? For reference, is the pin in the same position so I can guess and pound it out?

As a side note, before the engine swap I had been using that nice '28 throttle and it worked nicely. After swap it would not get enough travel to fully open or close with my '30 firewall. Is this a normal behavior? I went from crushed float-a-motors back to stock rear motor mounts, and I think the motor is now too high for it to clear.

[BVZ24]

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[nkaminar]

See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...DFs/A-9737.pdf

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by BVZ24

I have been looking for a new throttle for my mid '30 that has had an incomplete and bent throttle. I found a pair of complete '30 throttles less spring at a swap meet for $2 each and couldn't pass them up. I was able to turn both throttles and they both had the same bends, so I'm assuming they are relatively close to stock. I need springs for both.

One throttle was cosmetically significantly nicer than the other, and by my best guess is a mid '30. It has a one piece lever. This throttle is most likely the most repairable.

The other is an early '30 with a pinned lever. It has heavy pitting and rust, and I may need to replace the lever. This throttle has fewer bends.

What is the best way to replace the springs on each type, and do they use different springs? I am aware there should be a pin on the early 30, but I am not able to see this pin. Shown is a '28? For reference, is the pin in the same position so I can guess and pound it out?

As a side note, before the engine swap I had been using that nice '28 throttle and it worked nicely. After swap it would not get enough travel to fully open or close with my '30 firewall. Is this a normal behavior? I went from crushed float-a-motors back to stock rear motor mounts, and I think the motor is now too high for it to clear.

Where are you located? Maybe a Model A Club near by

[BVZ24]

I'm an on and off member of the local mafca. I was talking with another member about trading my 28 throttle for a ready to go 30 if they could find it, but the last tour was cancelled.

[al's28/33]

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Use the one that will operate with the least amount of mending. I dismembered two pitted ones to utilize good springs and rods that had no signs of wear. Takes a lot of patience to fit and adjust if the foot pedal end is bent and twisted from factory. Many of these were badly bent from long ago weekend mechanics who did not safely remove them before pulling engines. You want to confirm full range of motion on carburetor side too. Be careful measure 10x bend once.

[stevemclark]

I know this is a sloppy job but I did it around 1975 when I could not find a reproduction and I got tired of it sticking .Maybe I will fix it now but I believe if it ain't broke don't fix it, it works.

[Phil Brown]

The vendors have the needed springs, about $2 each and they slide on relatively easy

[Gene F]

I just recently too my march 1928 assembly off, and swapped it out. The thing needed adustment constantly. Even with an aux spring added. They changed them.....

[Brentwood Bob]

I have a good collection if you need a replacement. Baling wire/ tie wire should be kept in your tool box.

[Gene F]

The one on the top is off of my March 1928 A. You can bend the part that extends up from the bolt holes if careless. On a daily basis the thing extended out unsupported, and I'd constantly have to take it off and straighten it. Just the pull of the string and my foot on the throttle to drive would bend it slightly. Then it would "drag", and not want to return to idle completely. Just a nusance.

I had the other 3 in a box. They are each slightly different from one another - go figure... I picked one out, and it's a bit different, but it works better. I guess no one will ever know the difference.

[stevemclark]

Why did they put the spring close to the exhaust pipe?

[Gene F]

I imagine because you can walk the spring on without dismantling the whole thing.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Geez guys, the biggest challenge when restoring a Throttle Control Assembly is restoring the Accelerator Shaft Lever (Ford's nomenclature, -not mine!!) ball on the end to make it round again. Otherwise, turn the Throttle Shaft enough times to the correct spring pressure, -and them lubricate the Throttle Shaft periodically as prescribed in the lube charts, and these things just do not give problems nor need auxiliary springs to make them function correctly.