Tappet noise with new cam

[gilitos]

I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by gilitos

I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.

Some info would be good ! Was block to cam bearing clearance 'set to specs' ? Did you use original style lifters, or new style adjustable style ? What clearance intake/exhaust ? What was Stipe recommendation for lifter clearance ? Did you install new cam spring/button ? Did you install lifter with FOOT that Stipe recommended ?
Did you go from old fiber cam gear to alum or bronze ?

[gilitos]

0.012" intake and exhaust. It's tappet noise, not gear or cam plunger. Cam bearing clearance is fine. Tappet style? Jam nut, brand new, don't know the base diameter.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by gilitos

I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.

What does Stripe say about the problem (I am sure you contacted him before posting)?

Charlie Stephens

[gilitos]

Well no and that is of course an excellent idea. It's just that it's so easy to post on this forum then sit back and be entertained and educated by the many and varied responses!

[Pete]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by gilitos

Well no and that is of course an excellent idea. It's just that it's so easy to post on this forum then sit back and be entertained and educated by the many and varied responses!

If you are bothered by noise, just turn your hearing aids down......lol

[MikeK]

Are your valve springs fatigued and is there any drag in the guides? If you did not remove the valves from the guides and the lift travel of the new cam is now greater than the old wear pattern there may be some sticking.

If so, the valves will slightly lag on the closing side of the cam and instead of following the deceleration profile they will 'clack'. If this is the case it will hammer up the new cam in short order. Model A springs are extremely weak in pressure when new and, like all springs, lose tension with age and thermal cycles.

I'd start by removing the springs, checking their pressure, and seeing if, with the springs removed, you can easily (finger pressure) run the valves up and down at least 0.350" without any stick or bind. Try rotating them, too, when checking.

[CarlG]

Part of the reason why I replaced valves, guides, & springs at the same time as I put in the new Stipe 330 cam.

[Patrick L.]

I think I'd first call Mr Stipe to find out which lifters he wants used.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi G,

Maybe not the same problem as yours; however, here is just one (1) experience:

1. Installed new Stipe IB330 cam; with,
2. New timing cover camshaft plunger & new plunger spring; with,
3. New SS valves, new valve springs, & new valves guides; &,
4. After checking the former timing gear/crankshaft gear clearance which appeared to meet specs, installed same old fiber timing gear with metal center.
5. However, had installed a "new" crankshaft gear as opposed to reinstalling the old one.

A. Started engine & heard ticking.
B. Called Mr. Dan McEachern to ask about his aluminum timing gears -- he said a "slim" possibility "may" be the additional cam lift has caused the metal in the fiber gear to become loose & "maybe" making noise, or fiber gear not meshing with new crankshaft gear making noise. He knew he had also made my new crankshaft gear which would fit & mesh with his new timing gear.
C. Removed timing cover, no loose play noticed between gears.
D. Removed old fiber timing gear, no loose play "felt" between fiber/metal joint.
E. Installed new aluminum timing gear.
F. Called Mr. McEachern to report no more ticking.

Again, just one (1) experience.

[gilitos]

Originally Posted by forever4

All Jam nut tappets I have seen are 1 inch diameter and strictly verboten with a Stipe cam.

Confirm the tappet diameter and get the larger single lock lifters. Do not run the engine until you fix this.

Stipe Cam Specs on Ford Garage

Repro Valve Lifters on Ford Garage

Ouch!! Got my work cut out for me. Thanks everybody.

[tbirdtbird]

"All Jam nut tappets I have seen are 1 inch diameter and strictly verboten with a Stipe cam."

Totally agree. You have to use the single lock lifters, they are the only ones with the wider base.

[Pete]

The "double lock" lifters will hold adjustment better.
You just have to use a cam that was designed to run on a one inch lifter.

[gilitos]

Third time the motor will be out for this rebuild!

[tbirdtbird]

?? this can be done with the engine in the car.....

[tbirdtbird]

I have not had trouble with single lock lifters losing their setting

[gilitos]

Is that the best way? Seems like it would be a lot easier to do with the engine inverted in a stand. And I've never liked leaning down over the fender to adjust valves. Do you think it would save much time doing it in the car?

[PC/SR]

Definitely check the base diameter. Find out what size lifter base Stipe recommends. I wound up with big gouges on the cam lobes using the so-called double lock, jam nut lifter, which was .998 diameter. What size base you need depends on the cam grind. Did I say check with Stipe?
Check out Vince Falter's Ford Garage site for some information on this subject. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/valv...comparison.htm
It can be done with the engine in the car, but you have to remove the cam to get to the lifters. First drop the pan. Then you have to remove the valve spring retainers to take pressure off the lifters. I have used bobby pins to hold the lifters up while removing the cam. Then remove the bobby pins and the lifters will drop out the bottom. You can also insert new lifters this way from the bottom, which I suspect is going to be needed. It might be easier to remove the engine. Flip a coin.

[Purdy Swoft]

I think it would be MUCH easier to remove the engine.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Check the cam lobes carefully for any scraping or wear marks. If you used lifters with too small a diameter (which I suspect is the cause of the noise) the cam lobes strike the outside edge of the lifter base, which not only wipes off the oil, but has a very high load on a very small surface contact.

The new cam may be damaged already.

[gilitos]

Right. The question is how much damage and if it's toast now. Got a few hundred miles on it. I'll know hopefully this weekend.

[gilitos]

Right. The question is how much damage and if the cam is now toast. Hopefully I'll know this weekend.

[gilitos]

Pulled out the cam today; wear rate is visually very high considering there is less than 1000 miles on this engine, and is concentrated in one spot on the lobe. I can't measure a height difference with a micrometer, but the lobe is certainly rounded where it has been scraping the edge of the lifter. Maybe the larger diameter single lock lifter will bridge over this worn area and get enough support from the unworn edges to be okay. Would sure beat buying a new $400 cam. Wish I had known about the necessity of using a specific lifter before installing the cam.

I removed this with the engine in the car but I'll take Purdy's sage advice next time and pull the motor out.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by gilitos

Pulled out the cam today; wear rate is visually very high considering there is less than 1000 miles on this engine, and is concentrated in one spot on the lobe. I can't measure a height difference with a micrometer, but the lobe is certainly rounded where it has been scraping the edge of the lifter. Maybe the larger diameter single lock lifter will bridge over this worn area and get enough support from the unworn edges to be okay. Would sure beat buying a new $400 cam. Wish I had known about the necessity of using a specific lifter before installing the cam.

I removed this with the engine in the car but I'll take Purdy's sage advice next time and pull the motor out.

You should call Bill and ask him. If it is to bad he can regrind it for you. Bill is a good guy he will tell you what to do.

[PC/SR]

Yep, those are exactly the same marks I had on my cam using the small lifters. The center gouge may well have worn through the outer hardening, or certainly reduced its depth, so it would not last long even with correct lifters. It should be re-hardened if it is reground. The instructions should have told you the size lifters to use. Be sure the lifters rotate when you reinstall them.

[Pete]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The hardening is usually about .080 to .090 deep. No problem regrinding it a couple of times.
Aside from that, the finish on the unworn part of the lobe looks like it was done on a bench grinder. I'm surprised Bill would let something like that out.

[Purdy Swoft]

I've always used the single lock lifters . Bill Told me to use the large base single lock lifters when I ordered my cam. Mine is a 3/4 race regrind but the large base lifters are really better for any cam if you expect to get full specs on duration.

[Pete]

"but the large base lifters are really better for any cam if you expect to get full specs on duration."

Wrong! If the cam is designed for a 1 inch lifter, increasing the face diameter will only add weight to the valve train.

[colin1928]

Send it back to Bill as to be checked
Ask him to supply correct lifters and valve springs to suit the cam
Remember different cams need different valve springs

[tbirdtbird]

"Aside from that, the finish on the unworn part of the lobe looks like it was done on a bench grinder. I'm surprised Bill would let something like that out."

Hmmm.
Look closely. The copper plating is nearly gone. Wonder if the cam also overheated....that would throw off the appearance of any of the rest of the surfaces.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

"Aside from that, the finish on the unworn part of the lobe looks like it was done on a bench grinder. I'm surprised Bill would let something like that out."

Hmmm.
Look closely. The copper plating is nearly gone. Wonder if the cam also overheated....that would throw off the appearance of any of the rest of the surfaces.

Look closer. It was glass beaded after heat treating to take the scale off.
It has not been overheated.