'40 Brake Drums

[Bowen5573]

Good morning, Everybody,

Well, I began this latest journey with the intention of replacing the clutch on my '40 Deluxe Coupe. After reading as much as I could, including very helpful advice on The Ford Barn, I picked the option of removing the rear end, rather than removing the engine and transmission. This decision was mostly driven by my other decision to add a Mitchell Overdrive, and to do that I needed to remove the rear end anyway.

You know how it goes, right? So, I decided while I have the rear end out, I might as well do a brake job, because access will never be better, right? And, while I'm at it, I might as well do the front brakes as well, because, you know.... As an aside, I'm really fighting my natural urge to turn this clutch replacement/adding a Mitchell Overdrive project into a frame-off restoration which would be totally unnecessary, but "project creep" is a real thing and I've known many a car guy to be overtaken by it. So far, I'm not falling for it, but, I have to confess, like most addictions, it is a daily, if not an hourly struggle.

As I removed each of the brake drums, I inspected and measured them. Left front is 12.03". Right front is 12.03". Left rear is right at 12.0". Things are really feeling good at this point, because I just know I'm on a roll, and if three of them are within tolerance, the last one has to be also, right? Well, so much for hoping on that. The right rear measured at 12.156". Bummer!

So, as with most things, I have three options. First, I could just put it all back together with new brake shoes, etc., adjust the brakes per my "Ford 1939 and 1940 Engine & Chassis Repair Manual", and let it eat. Second, I could replace both the rear hubs and drums with some new two-piece stuff, but I really hate to do that for a whole lot of reasons, not the least of which is the expense. Third, I could try to find a replacement rear brake drum that is in good condition and within tolerance, i.e., measures less than 12.060".

At this point, it's obvious I'm pursuing option three. I really hope to be able to find a replacement brake drum. Anyone have any ideas or have a rear brake drum needing to be sold? I'd buy two if you have them and only want to sell them as a pair. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
Borron

[19Fordy]

If you do find a good OEM replacement drum, it will probably cost you the same as a new reproduction drum including shipping. Consider buying a new drum and hub from MT Products and know that it will be an excellent replacement. Use your old genuine Ford bearing and a new seal. New bearings are poor quality.

[V8COOPMAN]

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First, I'll say "GOOD LUCK"! Then, try "The Early Ford Store" in San Dimas, Ca. I've included the link BELOW! IF they have one (within limits), hold-on to your chest and be seated before you get THE price. GOOD drums are made out of "unobtanium".

https://www.earlyfordstore.com/


There is one more option ....J&G Relining in McHenry, Ill. These guys are "DRUM Gods"! Be sure to watch this short video showing some of what they are capable of.

https://www.jgrelining.com/photos


Then, you can get their contact info and view their entire web site by clicking THIS link!

https://www.jgrelining.com/


Several customers here on The 'Barn, always with GREAT feedback. Not cheap, but they'll make your drum "NEW"! DD

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[19Fordy]

THANKS V8 for posting that site and video. Never saw that before.
Looks like that company works miracles.
Yes, the best cost dough if you want to go.

[tubman]

I see Speedway Motors lists a new drum for $110.99 and they say free shipping on orders over $100. I know some people don't like Speedway, but these drums have 31 5-star ratings, 5 4-star, and only one 1-star. Even the 1-star rating was because of a slight (.015) out-of-round condition on one drum which was easily corrected by a trip to the machine shop.

I don't know about the prices of the other alternatives mentioned, but I have found that when prices are not quoted, there is usually a good reason.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-x-...IaAlCTEALw_wcB

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by tubman

I see Speedway Motors lists a new drum for $110.99 and they say free shipping on orders over $100. I know some people don't like Speedway, but these drums have 31 5-star ratings, 5 4-star, and only one 1-star. Even the 1-star rating was because of a slight (.015) out-of-round condition on one drum which was easily corrected by a trip to the machine shop.

I don't know about the prices of the other alternatives mentioned, but I have found that when prices are not quoted, there is usually a good reason.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-x-...IaAlCTEALw_wcB

DO YOUR HOMEWORK! The Speedy Bill drum reviews originate on the site of the drums in question ....consider the likely bias. Real world has had many complaints of out of round on these cheaper "Speedy" drums. They even LOOK similar, but they ain't. Compare the REAL DEAL Boling Bros. drums (BELOW), which are $135. In addition, Gary (Krylon32) offers the REAL Boling Bros. drums and brake parts to F'Barn folks at a 10% savings. A trip to a machine shop to 'correct' any MINOR out-of-round situation is gonna cost you more than $25 bucks, not to mention the disappointment, trouble and frustration ....Buyer BEWARE! DD





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[tubman]

Just offering an alternative. Over the many years I have been dealing with them, I have gotten many, many more good parts from them than bad parts. As to the "reviews originate on the site" statement, where else would they come from? Someone buys something and goes back to where they bought them and enters a review. I do it all the time. I can guarantee some of the reviews on Speedway are real, as I have seen a bunch of my own.

To arbitrarily eliminate a supplier, especially one with the history and reputation (yes, reputation) as Speedway, is in my eyes a mistake.

At least I got another price out of someone, and yes, I would rather deal with Gary than "Speedy Bill's" kids.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by tubman

To arbitrarily eliminate a supplier, especially one with the history and reputation (yes, reputation) as Speedway, is in my eyes a mistake.

Yo, there IS some good junk at Speedy Bill's...I've been there, too! This drum just ain't one of the good alternatives. What is interesting about this situation is that the "loaded" 'Lincoln' backing plates that Speedway offers in their brake package ARE actual "Boling Bros." pieces, yet they've obviously found a way to make a buck off of these brake drum copies of questionable origin and quality. The Boling Bros. take pride in bragging about their 'Made In USA' brake parts. Just so happens that the "M" place in Florida which also sells Corvette parts advertises this same wonky drum. No surprise there. DD

[Bowen5573]

Thanks, Fellas for all your replies. I do appreciate the advice and varied opinions. I’m still sorting my options, but welcome any and all guidance. I’ve owned my car for a number of years. It came to me from Michigan when I bought it from a guy named Marty, whose Dad, named Basil, restored it many years ago. Not to sound too corny, but now it’s my turn to take care of it and keep it safe and running properly. I know y’all understand.
Borron

[pistonbroke]

Hi All, Speaking of drums the front of my 41 half ton has a new drums and the one on the right is so out of balance it pendulums multiple times before coming to a stop. anyone ever balance one?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by pistonbroke

Hi All, Speaking of drums the front of my 41 half ton has a new drums and the one on the right is so out of balance it pendulums multiple times before coming to a stop. anyone ever balance one?

I never balanced one, but .....a friend of mine still has a two-owner '72 Chevy Nova. It has drum brakes all around. When he first bought the car about 1990, it had what appeared to be an out of balance tire/wheel. Balancing did no good. Trying a different tire/wheel did no good. After a whole bunch of scratchin' his butt, he finally determined that with what was likely the original front, left brake drum, that the BRAKE SHOE surface (or circle) was not concentric with the bearings in the center of the hub. In essence, the DRUM wall (shoe surface area) was very thick on one side of the drum, yet very thin in comparison 180º around the drum. WEIRD deal! All he could do was replace the drum/hub assembly. I can't imagine any practical way that you could make those two circular environments concentric with each other. DD

[Fred A]

I got into the habit of buying Ford and Zephyr drums with the expectation of poor quality shop work. When I found near standard drums I only trusted Richard Lacy to preserve as much of the diameter as could be. His shop had the pleasant question: Match or minimum cut? I only use Ford drums. I have paid as much as $125ea for true NOS if they offer two or more. Zephyr fronts oversize? Richard may buy them for the hubs. Another trick: I always have drum mikes in my bag at swaps. There may be mounds of drums and setting a price is essential. Never let the vendor know which drums are good as the price goes up after they see the mikes come out of the bag. Usually most of the offered drums are bad and the initial price is based on knowing he's selling crap. It is a fun game. Good Luck: Fred A

[Bowen5573]

Thanks, Fred A, for the history and advice. If you ever have any good drums to sell, please let me know. I need 1 rear at the moment. Take care.
Borron

[Fred A]

Borron, pretty tough question for a degenerate hoarder. At least you make it clear where you live, but I don't ship, only sell at the swap meets in the SoCal area. On the brake type, I only intend to use Zephyr/Bendix brakes. Ford drums are OK. Long tradition in my family, back more than fifty years with my cars. Even my Model As (or should that be Models A?) get those brakes. I even use them on round spindles. I would like the MT repop backing plates with the early bolt pattern if they had the outer ring. Good Luck: Fred A

[JWL]

Yes, I have balanced front brake drums on a 1940. Not in a sophisticated dynamic manner. I used the precision bubble balancer which is used to balance the grinding wheels for my crankshaft grinder. And yes, it made a noticeable-favorable improvement.

[Bowen5573]

Thanks, Fred, I get it. Btw, my thought is that it's "Model A's". My 2 cents. Take good care.
Borron

[Ray Balukas]

JG for sure

[Bursonaw]

I just went through an issue with replacing my front brake drums on my 41 Ford. I thought a brake job would be a straight forward job, right?
I found a set of new drums at Hershey at a great price. I thought it was a great score and save a little money as well. The first hurdle was splitting the hubs from the old drums, however after purchasing a Milwaukee 5/8” hole saw, it only took 10 minutes to separate the hubs from the old drums. I thought it would be smooth sailing from this point, All I had to do was press the new studs in the old hubs and slide the new drums on. Not so fast, it turned out that the new drums were .005 out of round, so off they went to be trued. I installed the new drums on the car, arced the shoes to match the drums, bled the brakes, adjusted the shoes and off for a test drive. Well the test drive did not go so well, at 50 mph the car had a very bad vibration. I thought the car was going to shake apart! I did figure that the drums were out of balance, it was the only thing that changed. The next thing was to find a place that balances brake drums. After making some calls I quickly found it was a service from the past, but not very common today, so now what? I ended up calling an engine rebuild shop to see if they could help, they balance flywheels and crankshafts so why not brake drums. The engine shop came to the rescue but discovered another problem. One drum was 20 grams out of balance and it was correctable.



Unfortunately the second drum was 200 grams out of balance and could not be balanced. Well one of the bargain brake drums just became junk, what a waist!

So what now? I decided to bite the bullet and buy a matching set of Boling Brothers drums.



The new drums arrived and they were beautifully machined. I checked the runout and the were .003 out of round, but not enough to worry about so I re-arced the brake shoes to match the new drums, installed everything re-adjusted the brakes shoes and off for another test drive. The test drive went well until I got on the highway. There was a slight vibration at 65 mph, much like an out of balance tire. I will have that checked before I make another trip to the engine shop to see if they can balance the Boling Brothers drums. The one saving grace is that when I ordered the new drums I did confirm that they do not balance their drums but they will warranty them.

The Lessons I learned are to do my research and that many of the reproduction parts and so called NOS parts are not always just bolt on. As these cars are getting older I’m finding that some services that were common in the day are obsolete today and finding someone to do the work can be a challenge.

I hope that my trials with the brakes will help someone else with their project.

Here is a post I started on the H.A.M.B about balancing brake drums.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14291994




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[cas3]

Sometimes, not always, but sometimes there is a reason the NOS parts were not used when they were new. Someone should have thrown them out, but it was easy to put them back on the shelf and grab a different one

[Brian]

nos drum on eBay, buy now...I have no affiliation with the seller
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165135308789

[Anteek29]

I see what looks like cracks in photo 3 of that eBay reference.