How to setup a 6 cylinder crab distributor

[edhd58]

I have taken my distributor out to rebuild my motor and there is all kinds of leather dust in it. once I get the new plunger, how do go about setting the thing up?

[Ken/Alabama]

The proper way would be to strobe it on a machine to set the dwell,timing and vacuum brake.

[edhd58]

At what vacuum should the brake release, how should I set up the brake before 1st start up, how do I know the brake spring isnt set too light, what btdc or atdc should I set it at initially, these are the things I need to know

[35fordtn]

Given the octane rating of today’s fuel I run the vacuum brake all the way out with little To no tension. All it does is hurt performance..

The dwell and timing should be setup up on a machine as mentioned, As well as to be sure the advance weights aren’t sticking

[zzlegend]

I do exactly as 35fordtn stated. But just to get me in the ball park, I have used this from Van Pelt website. Gets me very very close. But keep in mind, that mine is a V8 not a 6. You could call Mac and ask. Might be the same.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...str-timing.htm

[Kurt in NJ]

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the edge of the "wheel" that the leather rubs on has to be smooth and polished -no rust---or it cuts the leather and makes leather dust

[edhd58]

I took the distributor apart just now. And now i'm totally confused.

What does the screw that looks like it adjusts the plunger do? Does it determine just how far up the plunger comes? There is only a spring under that holder, nothing for the screw to press against the spring to adjust spring pressure. As far as I can tell the screw does nothing to adjust the pressure of the leather on the rotating part of the distributor.

The leather on mine was dry as can be is part of why I'm thinking it turned to dust. I also know I had a leak at the intake manifold where the vacuum line to the distributor connected, another reason the leather part was ruined. The leak didnt let the vacuum lift the leather off the distributor part. That disc in the distributor is nice and smooth and polished.

I looked at the VanPelt catalog and they dont show anything under the screw holder but a spring and leather piece / holder. So the screw adjustment thing has me confused.

[Hoop]

That big nut with the screw/locknut through it is the Vacuum Brake Adjuster (Van Pelt, 12227).

Inside the big nut (adjuster) there should be a disc attached to the end of the screw. That disc rides on the spring.

If there is no disc ... well, it is possible that someone unscrewed the screw enough to forcibly detach the disc from the end. Sounds like it might be your situation.

The screw should not be able to come all the way out of the large nut; it's normally held in by the disc.

[35fordtn]

Hoop just nailed the likely situation you have. If adjusted too far out the washer Affixed to the adjuster screws falls off.... a easy fix with a new adjuster unit they are the same from 1933-48

[edhd58]

Once I get the new adjuster how do I know when I have it set up correctly? the harmonic balancer has no marks to check advance and retard.

[Mart]

With no information to go by, this is what I would do.

Set the points to .015.
Set the adjuster plate to dead center, or one line advanced.
Set the plunger so there is minimal drag.

Bolt it on.

Drive it.

Make a judgement if it feels ok.

If you want to go to the trouble of making a tdc pointer, you could then use a timing light to dial it in.

Without that, All you can do is bolt it on and try it.

Mart.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Mart

With no information to go by, this is what I would do.

Set the points to .015.
Set the adjuster plate to dead center, or one line advanced.
Set the plunger so there is minimal drag.

Bolt it on.

Drive it.

Make a judgement if it feels ok.

If you want to go to the trouble of making a tdc pointer, you could then use a timing light to dial it in.

Without that, All you can do is bolt it on and try it.

Mart.

Good advise !!!!!!

[edhd58]

Thanks guys. I'll get the missing parts replaced and set up. I'm in the process of rebuilding the motor so i may well make pointer while it's easy to do. I'll find TDC, mark the balancer and from there.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by edhd58

Once I get the new adjuster how do I know when I have it set up correctly? the harmonic balancer has no marks to check advance and retard.

You assemble the bolt with the plate compressing the spring with minimal tension. Then drive the car till warmed up, and try a steep road and put a load on the car. If you get a motor ping (knock) screw the bolt in further, lock it down with the nut on the bolt and try the load test for a ping again. Repeat until the ping is barely detectable, now lock it down, and your set for proper advance.

The theory here is as you put the load on the car, the vacuum falls, the piston rubs harder on the advance plate and consequently decreases advance.

[edhd58]

To everyone that has responded this, Thank you very much. You have kept me from having do something over and over I'm sure.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

THIS MAY HELP....

All this is something new i have been playing with , let me know if thos works and is worth doing . I have this type of format for all early ford distributors....