1950 Ford Flathead Transmission T87D

[Ggmac]

Originally Posted by Bustingear

the throw out bearing moves back and forth on the spline about an inch before it sops at the fingers and does not move anymore

Clutch set up just like stock with modification for frame

Still looking at the linkage . It looks like no mechanical advantage . Your pedal linkage point appears higher ( from its pivot ) than the clutch pivot distance ( again going from pivot to top connection.)

[Bob C]

Here is a picture of the pickup pedals, you can see how close the arm
is to the pivot point.

Bob

[Ggmac]

Good pic , that's what I'm talking about . His pivots are all wrong , no mechanical advantage, AT ALL . It even looks to be less than 1-1

[Greg58]

Is hydraulic a option ?

[Bustingear]

Ok attached is another picture of the linkage revisited
You can see the bend in the pedal shaft and how close the frame pinch makes it difficult to line up.
i have a mock up here for suggestions and would like advice of best way to get this done.
upper heim is 2 5/8 away from pedal base
eye to eye on heim rod is 7 1/2 inches with the pedal pad straight up
the pivot on the equalizer bar is 3 inches up from the equalizer shaft
1. I plan to drill the pedal hole lower where the heim is now. Cant go any lower to the base due to the bend in the pedal shaft will hit the heim rod during movement
2. I will have to cut a bit of the frame pedal mount away to get that to even clear.
Is there enough mechanical advantage to make this work? I have about 1/2 inch of throw before the throwout hits the fingers. That is just free play in the cross bar.
Suggestion on how to are welcome.

[alanwoodieman]

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as with all creations this is a gamble, but it looks to me that you are on the right track. remember the closer to the fulcrum the less force is required, but the movement is less-- further from the fulcrum-more force but great movement. use you aforementioned locking pliers and operate the cross shaft and measure the amount of distance the pedal must move to release the clutch. I would probably drill a couple of holes 1/2" apart in the arm and experiment! (fulcrum is the pivot shaft on the pedal)

[Ggmac]

It would be close if a 2 to 1 ratio . Just from memory . Is it possible to fab an extension under neath the pedal and clutch . In other words 180 degree from its current . So the pedal would have an extension going down so would the other arm . When you depress the pedal it would now pull the clutch arm , which is also pointing down , moving the clutch bearing the same as before . I hope this makes some sense .
Gary

[Ggmac]

Originally Posted by Bustingear

Ok attached is another picture of the linkage revisited
You can see the bend in the pedal shaft and how close the frame pinch makes it difficult to line up.
i have a mock up here for suggestions and would like advice of best way to get this done.
upper heim is 2 5/8 away from pedal base
eye to eye on heim rod is 7 1/2 inches with the pedal pad straight up
the pivot on the equalizer bar is 3 inches up from the equalizer shaft
1. I plan to drill the pedal hole lower where the heim is now. Cant go any lower to the base due to the bend in the pedal shaft will hit the heim rod during movement
2. I will have to cut a bit of the frame pedal mount away to get that to even clear.
Is there enough mechanical advantage to make this work? I have about 1/2 inch of throw before the throwout hits the fingers. That is just free play in the cross bar.
Suggestion on how to are welcome.

In your last pic it looks like the arm is already ( factory ) pointing down . See how close to the pivot it is

[Bustingear]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

In your last pic it looks like the arm is already ( factory ) pointing down . See how close to the pivot it is

this is a great suggestion i will try a mock up on the bottom mounts

[rotorwrench]

What I would seriously consider is changing your design to one that works like a set of 1939 Ford pedals where the clutch pedal arm is attached to an inner shaft that rides inside the the support for the brake & clutch control pedals. You have plenty of room in that area to put a short arm & linkage. Do away with the equalizer and use a shaft & arm like the early Ford V8 types used. This wouldn't change your set up too much in my way of thinking. Anyway, take a look at the way the clutch works for a 1939 Ford and see what you think.

[Greg58]

If you can compound your leverage somehow it would work, kinda like a block and tackle pulley system. With every reversal of cable or rope the force is multiplied.

[Bob C]

Rotorwench is on the right track. You could weld up the big notch in your
K member this way.

Bob

[Bustingear]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

What I would seriously consider is changing your design to one that works like a set of 1939 Ford pedals where the clutch pedal arm is attached to an inner shaft that rides inside the the support for the brake & clutch control pedals. You have plenty of room in that area to put a short arm & linkage. Do away with the equalizer and use a shaft & arm like the early Ford V8 types used. This wouldn't change your set up too much in my way of thinking. Anyway, take a look at the way the clutch works for a 1939 Ford and see what you think.

do you have a picture of what you mean by shaft and arm linkage?

[Ggmac]

The brake shaft is hollow and the clutch pedal shaft runs thru this hollow shaft to exit nearer the trans . It moves the linkage inboard .
Hard to fabricate,

[rotorwrench]

This is a cut away from the early Ford design. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...35-39_85hp.jpg

The throw out fork is on a plain shaft with a long arm just to the outside of the bell. The drawing doesn't illustrate how the brake works with it but it gives the general idea. You can find photos of the 39 pedal assemblies in a quick google search to see how they were set up. Your pedal support set up would have to become a shaft support and the brake pedal would ride on the clutch pedal operating shaft. There used to be better photos on the HAMB but most of the old threads lost there photobucket links if the authors didn't keep up their accounts. A lot has been lost on there due to that.

[Bob C]

The picture I show in post #32 is a 1939 setup.

Bob