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08-19-2012, 08:41 PM | #21 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
Vince, you should put those into production!
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06-18-2017, 01:24 PM | #22 |
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Location: Walla Walla, WA
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
My apologies for opening an old thread, but I tried the link to the Harbor Freight bushing driver, but it came up blank. Knowing Harbor freight, they may have discontinued the item. There is a "seal" driver kit shown, and I am wondering if that is the same as what was earlier referred to. Anyone know?
I have a 29 tudor that all the clutch operation seems to be being absorbed by the play in the pedal and clutch arm slop. When I am in neutral, it grinds when I try putting it in gear with the clutch pushed in all the way. By the way, I am new here as I just purchased a 29 Tudor. I live in Walla Walla, WA and I met up with Steve Plucker yesterday at an antique auto show in Dayton, WA. At the point I met Steve, I did non know I had this bushing issue. Steve is very knowledgeable! I am new to model A's, but I had previously owned a 64 1/2 Mustang for many years. Also, I take it from reading the Les Andrews book that I need to drop the rear-end in order to drop the bell housing and tranny to get to the clutch arm for bushing replacement. Any known shortcuts? -Bill Geurts Newbie |
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06-18-2017, 08:50 PM | #23 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
Are you either double clutching, or waiting long enough for the gears to slow down after you push the clutch pedal down? No synchro in the Model A tranny, so it will take a little getting used to shifting.
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06-18-2017, 09:24 PM | #24 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
On shifting, yes double clutching. From a dead standstill in neutral. I can push the clutch in until the cows come home and still grinding, like the clutch is not fully releasing, although if I start the car in gear with the clutch in and no brake on, there is not enough friction to move the car, so there is just enough engagement of the clutch against the flywheel or pressure plate to cause the transmission input shaft to be spinning
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06-18-2017, 09:52 PM | #25 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
When I went to replace the new split bushings into my housing, they spread and split.
Mc Master Carr has some 1" diameter "Oilite" bushing material that was machined on my lathe, both to the proper OD and ID dimensions of 0.001 0ver on the OD and 0.002 over on the ID. This provide a slight press fit and allows clearance for the shaft. The real benefit is that they are self-oiling. They were always "wet" during machining! I'll make you a driver free. Just pay for material and shipping. I may have some free stock.. Hafta look..
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06-18-2017, 09:58 PM | #26 | |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
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Quote:
it might just be a matter of adjustment, either in the clutch throw or the pressure plate fingers. This is a picture of an AA housing, which is what my truck used to have..but the idea is the same.. My truck came from Prescott two years ago.......!!
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
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06-18-2017, 10:34 PM | #27 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
And for what it's worth, my truck was doing exactly what you described.
With the engine running, it would not shift into first or reverse without grinding. If you started the engine while it was in gear with the clutch depressed it worked fine, no movement until you let the clutch out... I think it was mostly due to the old pilot bearing being very gummed up with old grease, it just wouldn't allow the clutch plate and transmission main gear to stop turning
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
06-18-2017, 10:45 PM | #28 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
Now that's an interesting thought about the pilot bearing. I just bought the car about a week and a half ago, and I have no history with the car other than what I see is what I got. I know how to contact the seller, and I just might. I drove the car to a car show yesterday about 30 miles each way. When I was about to leave after the show, that's when I noticed it really getting bad. It seems to have gotten a little worse since I got home with it last night.
Looking in the access plate, everything looks in order. All the fingers of the pressure plate seem to be contacting the thow-out bearing at the same time. While there is a lot of play in the bushings, logic tells me that the play must not be the only issue here. The bearing you described sounds like a good possibility. Thanks for the input! |
06-18-2017, 10:59 PM | #29 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
It could be a crack in either of the two arms that work the throw out bearing. It's a fairly common problem for them to crack, and I think it's usually the one on the outside of the housing.
Like Larry, I had the split bushing spread during installation, so I had to make an outside sleeve and an inside driver to install them. |
06-19-2017, 01:22 AM | #30 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
One of the best investments I made years ago was for a used lathe I bought at a swap meet. It's small and I can put it up on a shelf when I don't need it. I've literally made dozens of special tools with it.
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06-19-2017, 09:32 AM | #31 |
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Re: Question: Clutch Housing and Pedal Bushing Install
Before pressing in bushings esp the split type, take a round file and clean up any burrs or ruff spots in the hole. It does not take much in the hole to mess up the bushings and cause them to get out of alignment at the split. You are only looking to clean not enlarge the hole.
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