Modern replacement for fuel shutoff valve

[mngreen]

Thinking of using something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-Weather...00BLVCML2?th=1

What are the specs of the original valve? 1/4 NPT male x 3/8 flare male?

Opinions?

I am not looking to rebuild original or replace with repop (been there, done that, a number of times already over the years, so don't try to convince me ).

I am running a stock Model B fuel pump with a Stromberg 97 downdraft and don't want to have fuel starvation or any fuel leakage when closed. My other alternative I am considering is a 1/4 comp brass in-line ball valve spliced into the fuel line in the engine compartment.

[duke36]

Suggest using a lever handle ball valve in-line (1/8") with compression fittings. If on an indented fire wall car, one can run a stiff wire from inside the car below the tank and through the firewall over to the valve lever.

[Synchro909]

The fuel valve on one of my cars has been replaced with a ball valve. Works just dandy and is out of sight anyway.
I know you don't want to be convinced but on another car, I used a kit from a vendor to repair the original valve. That was several thousand miles ago and it is working fine. For mine, I'd put a kit in an original valve someone has discarded because it leaked a few drops.

[dave in australia]

what about a Teflon seated stainless steel 1/4 turn ball valve?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dave in australia

what about a Teflon seated stainless steel 1/4 turn ball valve?

They are nice and I like to install them on my air compressors for line valves and tank drain valves, but for my Model A's I like to stay with original parts that have been restored.

[mngreen]

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What are the specs of the original valve? 1/4 NPT male x 3/8 flare male?

[dave in australia]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

They are nice and I like to install them on my air compressors for line valves and tank drain valves, but for my Model A's I like to stay with original parts that have been restored.

I agree Tom, and do so on my A's, but the OP said he didn't want to, so I offered the ball valve as a suggestion.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

You can't have your CAKE & eat it TOO!
Bill W.

[katy]

What are the specs of the original valve? 1/4 NPT male x 3/8 flare male?

You got it.

[duke36]

see attached for modern type ethanol resistant ball valve.$10 at hardware stores + fittings.

[mngreen]

Thanks katy, duke & Bill.

My choice remains between the angled needle valve and the in-line valve. I suspect that the flow provided by the needle valve at full open might not be sufficient for my setup, but it is in a better location right at the tank. The in-line valve provides a full wide-open throat when open but is in the engine compartment downstream, but is less convenient, and redundant. I am confident that both options are okay with today's fuel.

If anyone has experience with a needle type valve not providing the necessary flow rate for a B pump and a 97 combo (or similar), please let me know.

Otherwise, Bill W. may be right that I can't have my cake and eat it too!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by mngreen

Thanks katy, duke & Bill.

My choice remains between the angled needle valve and the in-line valve. I suspect that the flow provided by the needle valve at full open might not be sufficient for my setup, but it is in a better location right at the tank. The in-line valve provides a full wide-open throat when open but is in the engine compartment downstream, but is less convenient, and redundant. I am confident that both options are okay with today's fuel.

If anyone has experience with a needle type valve not providing the necessary flow rate for a B pump and a 97 combo (or similar), please let me know.

Otherwise, Bill W. may be right that I can't have my cake and eat it too!

The needle type valve worked PERFECT on Minerva, with a low pressure fuel pump & a Weber carb.
When Minerva was TOTALLY STOCK, it worked well, also.
Bill W.

[mngreen]

Forgot to mention, I have a Cragar OHV setup also...

[duke36]

mn, if you have the original valve located inside the car, you can splice the inline valve in the stock fuel line right after the valve under the tank. Another option though not stock looking is to replace the original valve with an elbow fitting in to the tank bottom and to fit the stock fuel line end fitting. Then cut the fuel line section out and install the ball valve. Never had any leaks this way especially inside the car.

[katy]

My choice remains between the angled needle valve

Not sure what you mean by "the angled needle valve", but the original valve is a plug valve, w/lots of flow.

[mngreen]

Originally Posted by katy

Not sure what you mean by "the angled needle valve", but the original valve is a plug valve, w/lots of flow.

I was referring to my preferred choices of modern replacements, not the original valve. My choices were either the modern angled needle valve (pictured) in lieu of the original valve or an in-line ball valve somewhere else down the fuel line.

I did finally install an in-line ball valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment between the sediment bulb and fuel pump. I left the original leaky valve intact under the tank. The ball valve gives full open flow with a 1/4 turn of the handle with zero leakage down the line.

I am very happy with this improvement and I see this as a permanent fix for my application.