Electric fuel pump mounting location

[Paul Bjarnason]

I am installing a Weber carb on my '29 Tudor which requires an electric fuel pump to work well, due to the Weber being a downdraft carb which sits higher than the stock Model A Carb. If anyone has mounted an electric fuel pump and are satisfied with the result, please tell me where and how you did it. If I mount it just below the manifolds, I am concerned with heat from the exhaust manifold. It might work if I put it above the muffler b/c I have a heat shield on the muffler. Thoughts appreciated. Thank you.

[gdmn852]

Hello, electric fuel pumps usually push better than pull , at least my experience on sports cars, perhaps mounted inside near fuel shut off. I sure you will get more Model A s pacific replys.

[CarlG]

I have mine mounted under the frame rail directly below the carb. In the picture below the pump in the little red thing. My carb in a Stromberg 97, but that is the same place when I had a Weber on it.

[nkaminar]

I have a small inline fuel pump. I don't know what brand. It is mounted in the line from the fuel shut off under the tank (1930 car) to the glass sediment bowl. The line from the sediment bowl to my Weber carburetor is the standard line that is normally used for the updraft Zenith carburetor but with a rubber hose to connect it to the Weber. That makes for a clean engine compartment installation.

I carry an unmodified fuel line that would connect from the tank to the sediment bowl in case the fuel pump fails. If the tank is full it will gravity feed to the Weber.

[Tom Endy]

I was on a tour years go and a guy had an electric fuel pump mounted on the fire wall where the fuel exited. It was right above the exhaust manifold. We got out into the heat of New Mexico and the pump started thermal tripping. We had to bypass it and rig up a direct flow to the Webber, and make sure he kept the fuel level in the tank high. Moral to the story, mount it somewhere cool.

Tom Endy

[Synchro909]

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I need a fuel pump on all 4 of my Model As. The pump is mounted in the same place on all of them. I make a mounting plate and bolt it in the corner where the right hand chassis rail and the front cross member meet. Any further back is unworkable because of the steering box.
BTW, Do those exhaust manifolds shown in CarlG's post boost power? It's really just an academic question because we can't use them.

[Paul Bjarnason]

Thank you for the responses, gentlemen. I will put the pump down on the frame rail below the carb. I just discovered that Ford put holes to mount a right-hand steering box in my car's frame and, so, I can use those holes to mount a bracket to carry the pump, pressure regulator and pressure gauge. And, I will carry hose to replace the pump should it fail.

[ModelA29]

Put an aluminum shield between the exhaust and gas line/pump to keep the heat away. The line to the pump has such low pressure it can vapor lock fairly easily if too close to the exhaust.


gasoline has no single boiling point. Instead, the lighter fractions start boiling out at 90-100 degrees F, with more and more evaporated as the liquid temperature increases

[nkaminar]

Synchro, I tried a tube type manifold. It did not seem to add any more power over the stock manifold. So I don't think the manifold of CarlG's would help. I think it would only help if you were racing. It seems that increasing the flow through the intake side has much move of an effect.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Synchro, I tried a tube type manifold. It did not seem to add any more power over the stock manifold. So I don't think the manifold of CarlG's would help. I think it would only help if you were racing. It seems that increasing the flow through the intake side has much move of an effect.

Thanks, Neil. It makes me feel a bit better knowing that the standard manifold, which I have to use is about as good as it gets.
BTW, for years now, I have mounted a medium strength spring from the RH engine mount to the exhaust just in front of the muffler. The idea is to take the weight of the exhaust off the manifold to prevent it drooping as they do. It's probably overkill but I see no down side to it.

[kenparker0703]

Mine is mounted inside the frame rail. Couple inches behind the front crossmember. As far from the exhaust as possible and still able to make the bends in the fuel line to get to the Weber carberrader.

[updraught]

Who makes Carl's intake? Doesn't look like it has a hot spot. Just wondering about icing in Alaska?
I thought someone did tests on the original exhaust manifold and found it fine.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Synchro, I tried a tube type manifold. It did not seem to add any more power over the stock manifold. So I don't think the manifold of CarlG's would help. I think it would only help if you were racing. It seems that increasing the flow through the intake side has much move of an effect.

OT, but this from Dave Gerold addresses enlarging the intake manifold:

http://www.durableperformance.net/In...nt_7.20.17.pdf

[Paragon]

Synchro909, would you please share a picture of the spring set up and clamp you use to take the load off the manifold? Thank you -

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by updraught

Who makes Carl's intake? Doesn't look like it has a hot spot. Just wondering about icing in Alaska?
I thought someone did tests on the original exhaust manifold and found it fine.

Tod Buttermore made both the intake and exhaust manifolds. I think that he makes them for Snyder's as well. Never had an icing problem, and yes, I do run it in the winter here in Alaska.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Paragon

Synchro909, would you please share a picture of the spring set up and clamp you use to take the load off the manifold? Thank you -

I'd like to do that for you but it is right up under the steering column and not easy to get at. I hope a description will do. This works with the original engine mounts. I made a "hook" out of round stock about 3-4mm (1/8") diameter to hook over the top of the mount. It uses only the rear part of the mount behind the hole in the top of it. On the end facing back, I made a hook to connect the spring to. I put the spring at the back of the engine mount so it will stay where I put it and not slip forward and up the pipe towards the engine. I found a reproduction original style hose clip around the exhaust pipe just in front of the muffler was ideal at the bottom end as the slot in it caught on the weld to help hold everything from moving forward. The spring I used was from my "Old Springs" collection and looks like it might have been a return spring from a set of brakes. Just select a spring that is reasonably strong and short enough to be under tension in the space that is available between the hook and the hose clamp. I put the top of the spring on the hook I made and simply wired the bottom end of the spring (under tension) to the hose clip. This would all be easier for you guys with your steering column on the other side of the car.
I hope you can imagine what I did from that - it's not easy to describe what comes out of my mind!!

[wuga]

This works for me. Away from the heat and debris. Holley Mighty Mite Electric Fuel Pumps. Come in various pressures from 2 to 10 lbs. Reasonably priced, dependable and discrete. The 2 is great for a Stromberg, the Webber probably needs a 4-7

Warren

DSC05058.jpg

[Randall]

Here’s mine with regulator and gauge on top