Odd Motor Mount Spring

[lance leblanc]

After reading the comments from an earlier post, I've decided to repair my cross member and refurbish my original motor mounts. However I am unable to locate the rubber bushing on my front mount.
Is this type of mount unusual?
I'm considering fashioning my own out of a brake bushing.

Will the replacement springs (without bushings) that everyone sells work with my current yoke?

[c125bob]

I have the same issue, bee hive springs and no rubber bushing. I'll be watching this one for some help as well !

[jkcrosson]

I think the spring is a 50's western auto replacement. I don't think Ford ever used a spring like that originally, even though mine came to me with one on it.

[2manycars]

That is an aftermarket spring. They are still available. They usually are too tall, and too stiff, and as a result, the hand crank will not line up with the ratchet. I suggest using the original setup, with two small springs, and the plate that aligns them.

[James Rogers]

Throw all that junk in the trash ad order a set from Snyder's or Bratton's. Put it right and you will solve at least one problem.

[Gary WA]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

That is an aftermarket spring.and yes you can use the yoke with the spring as per pic.

[lance leblanc]

Great. While I am not doughting any of these post. This is not the first after market or farmers fix I have found. J.C. Whitney supplied to former engine. and an old lawn mower blade served as a rear body shim.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by James Rogers

Throw all that junk in the trash ad order a set from Snyder's or Bratton's. Put it right and you will solve at least one problem.

Amen!

[c125bob]

Well, that explains why my crank won't line up ! I'm taking it all out and going to a "stock" set up. Thanks guys !!!!!!!!!

[Purdy Swoft]

I've never had a problem with the aftermarket front motor mount spring set up. I didn't use the rubber bushing under the center yoke bolt. I used an original type spring on the center bolt, under the front crossmember. My hand cranks line up good with this setup, Its just a matter of tightening the nut under the crossmember untill the crank aligns with the crankshaft ratchet nut and no more.

[lance leblanc]

My crank lined up fine with it also, but I've already ordered to stock springs and more anxious than ever to get my engine back.

[29As]

Just checked my 28 Sport Coupe which was restored in the mid 1970s. It has this style of replacement front mount, with the rubber bushings still in place. The hand crank lines up perfect and I don't notice any more vibration compared to all the other A's I've driven over the years. Not worth changing now, in my opinion, but then, I'm not planning on having it judged either.

[racer32]

Originally Posted by lance leblanc

After reading the comments from an earlier post, I've decided to repair my cross member and refurbish my original motor mounts. However I am unable to locate the rubber bushing on my front mount.
Is this type of mount unusual?
I'm considering fashioning my own out of a brake bushing.

Will the replacement springs (without bushings) that everyone sells work with my current yoke?

Interesting...my coupe has that spring, but the yoke looks different. Mine has the plate under the springs, and a straight spring under the crossmember...I fought with that thing yesterday trying to get the stuff lined up (it was in the crossmember crooked). Apparently, there's no way to get either the spring or yoke out without pulling the front pulley off the engine. Otherwise, I would have put on the new springs I bought the other day.

[Drive Shaft Dave]

I had a front motor mount set up like the one pictured, I didn't like the way it vibrated an impression into the crossmember. OEM is best in my opinion.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I've seen a lot of those "beehive" springs used, Vermin has one & the crank goodie aligns good. We leave out the rubber cone thing, they're NOT needed, as they make it too stiff! I feel they're more substantial than the originals, that sometimes "mysteriously" fall out! I gave a new extra "beehive" setup to a friend that lost a spring!
Bill W.

[larrys40]

Most of those are "Champ" items made by Champ, they made a slew of aftermarket fix things for Ford and others. They were based out of St. Louis near me.
Some were good, some not. They were one of the more prevelent aftermarket suppliers of stuff like this for Ford Cars.

There is no good substitute for the correct original motor mount setup. If the springs are correct, adjusted properly ( see service bulletins), the motor will line up properly and have the correct sprint travel up and down. Not all repro spring kits are correct... so please see the service bulletins for correct installation and adjustment.
Of course your rear mounts should also be in good shape, with the correct rubber and spacers installed properly. The "Bratton" rubber so marked when purchased from them is the only rubber that I know of that is of the proper thickness and consistency. Having done many... just my 2-cents worth. I would agree with Marco's statement in another post.. that most don't realize how smooth an "A" can be if all is done correct. Engine/correctly matched/weighted rods, pistons, and of course motor mounts all have an an effect on vibration.
Good luck!
Larry Shepard

[lance leblanc]

Fast forward 9 years - Im now wondering if this is why I now have such a small clearance between my fan belt and the radiator return hose

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by c125bob

Well, that explains why my crank won't line up ! I'm taking it all out and going to a "stock" set up. Thanks guys !!!!!!!!!

If your front motor mount is installed backwards your crank will never line up.

[Chris Haynes]

My A is a driver. I have upgraded it to the later four cylinder type mount. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...id=978640&cat=

[lance leblanc]

Went to a 41” belt and that provided the clearance I was looking for